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Definitive Thread Concerning Splitters/Combiners?

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Old 02-12-2018, 04:11 PM   #31
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Belden RG6/U would do the trick for soldering.
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Old 02-12-2018, 06:02 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Sev View Post
Belden RG6/U would do the trick for soldering.
Most RG6 has aluminum braid. Which Belden RG6 are you considering?

You would have the same braid problem with the coax used for a halfwave coaxial balun.
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:25 AM   #33
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Most RG6 has aluminum braid. Which Belden RG6 are you considering?

You would have the same braid problem with the coax used for a halfwave coaxial balun.
https://www.belden.com/products/ente...ohm-video-coax

I was looking at the solid core with the 95% tinned copper. 1694A, 1694WB or 1694RW
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:49 AM   #34
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That should be easy to solder.
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:50 AM   #35
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Hey Rabbit, any thoughts on using this as a combiner??

http://www.winegarddirect.com/viewit...(CC7870)&post=

I have used them in the past with good results.

And also this one, it's a bit better then the Winegard as it's totally shielded, one problem with it is the connections are on the down facing side so you have to water proof them.

https://www.channelmaster.com/JOINtenna_p/cm-0500.htm

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Old 02-13-2018, 12:12 PM   #36
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Man I wish I still had access to the RF engineering lab at work, I could do some good stuff on this.
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Old 02-13-2018, 12:44 PM   #37
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Hello everyone here my experience with cb YES and ham radio and television reesepshion the less you tap off the antennas CABLE the best results you get
And use the best CABLE and the best of the best in amps the channel master 7777amp is ok but the Johnson amp with IT'S sep uhf/vhf in you don't get the db gane loss and the higth of the antennas makes a big difference so say you had a 100 Ft tower and you add 50Ft more too it you will see a defernts in your receive
And if you don't believe me play with the fooltv by adding higth why do you think the broadcastsing tower's are 1000 of feet up ? If you want too Dx get that antenna up in the air and don't forget that blinking red lights at the top!!and don't use the junk splitters exsperts do not like using them that's all I no sev I used a 91xg WITH a channel master amp frume Springfield Massachusetts 69.1 ion 90miles out the antenna was 90ft hi antennas Direct told me that the ANTENNA manufactures say higth is everything and don't forget everyone IT'S uhf and 90 miles away thay say is it for uhf,in hevey rain or snow I had no dropouts with it know vhf hi and low higth is a + agen and boy does that vhf travels a lot further than the uhf that's why if you have found plans on a old school hi&low vhf outdoor tv antennas make it and make it out of copper,and be very picky about measuring and make it and enny ANTENNA manufactures say that they are not going too make a 15Ft long hi&low vhf outdoor tv antenna and is what's needed for
Dx and a good amp and you will definitely see 300/500miles good luck sev!!!and rabbit keep up the good work and thank you for all of your free time 73,

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Old 02-13-2018, 06:04 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by TVantenna Man View Post
This Sev has what I call antenna syndrome. So obsessed with over the air that they will spend hours and hours online, spending lots of time and money trying to put together some sort of ultimate antenna system. If the signal is not at the antenna you won't get dick. You have already spent enough money that you could of paid the cable or sat bill for several years.
Well it looks sev like I no what too use, but you should really find an old school hi and low
Vhf. like that 1960 i bet the db,s are a lot better then the 8200u .last year when I was tocking
With you . Winegrud did put out a hi and low vhf fm outdoor tv antenna.that does kik ass all
Over that 1960,and the 8200u.my suggestion too you is stagger stack the hi vhf ANTENNA 's
Call me. I have so much in fo that you could have the best of the best. rabbit is the best person for help when it comes too tv and ham radio stuff.Well good luck sev.
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Old 02-13-2018, 06:30 PM   #39
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Use rg 8u frum the antennas right in to the amps bord for get the f connectors for get the dume shit!!73 and them, t ,f connectors work well that is what I used

Last edited by Hdb91xg; 02-13-2018 at 06:36 PM..
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:47 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terryl3 View Post
Hey Rabbit, any thoughts on using this as a combiner??

http://www.winegarddirect.com/viewit...(CC7870)&post=

I have used them in the past with good results.

And also this one, it's a bit better then the Winegard as it's totally shielded, one problem with it is the connections are on the down facing side so you have to water proof them.

https://www.channelmaster.com/JOINtenna_p/cm-0500.htm
They work OK; very similar to a splitter in reverse. Sev is looking for ways to combine that have the lowest possible losses.
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:54 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Terryl3 View Post
Man I wish I still had access to the RF engineering lab at work, I could do some good stuff on this.
I also wish I could afford lab grade equipment, but the signal level meters that I found on eBay, plus the Diagnostics Screen on my Sony TVs allow me to diagnose most reception problems.

The most expensive piece of equipment that I have is the Sadelco DisplayMax 800 Signal Level meter that my wife gave to me. It can do a single channel scan very much like a spectrum analyzer, which will show the pilot signal and notches in a scan from multipath reflections.

This channel 13 signal is strong enough, but the tuner is not able to lock on to it because of the multipath reflections. The antenna was a folded dipole, indoors.



I added a reflector to reduce the reflections from the rear, and the tuner locked on to the signal.



I moved the antenna to a better location, and I didn't even need the reflector.

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Last edited by rabbit73; 02-13-2018 at 09:05 PM..
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:08 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Hdb91xg View Post
rabbit is the best person for help when it comes too tv and ham radio stuff.Well good luck sev.
Thank you for your kind words. I keep trying, but I still have a lot to learn.
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:15 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Hdb91xg View Post
Use rg 8u frum the antennas right in to the amps bord
RG8U is 50 ohm low loss coax. RG11U is 75 ohm low loss coax, but they are both difficult to work with. If your long coax is after the preamp at the antenna, you can usually get away with good quality RG6 because the preamp has amplified the signals BEFORE the coax loss.
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:29 PM   #44
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They work OK; very similar to a splitter in reverse. Sev is looking for ways to combine that have the lowest possible losses.
Most of the low loss combiners I have used are in the $3000 to $4000 dollar range, but we were using tuned cavity combiners.

There are some good low loss combiners thru a place called "Minicircuits" but you will have to do some work as to putting them on a PCB and using a good shielded metal container.

https://www.minicircuits.com/WebStor...SBTCJ-13-75%2B
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Old 02-14-2018, 07:08 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by Terryl3 View Post
Most of the low loss combiners I have used are in the $3000 to $4000 dollar range, but we were using tuned cavity combiners.

There are some good low loss combiners thru a place called "Minicircuits" but you will have to do some work as to putting them on a PCB and using a good shielded metal container.

https://www.minicircuits.com/WebStor...SBTCJ-13-75%2B
Well. Am not 3000-4000 dollars worth serious.
Plus I believe my life expectancy might be shortened she ever found out.
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