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Onkyo TX-SR606 HDMI Switching headache

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Old 09-27-2010, 10:22 AM   #121  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by provels View Post
Many thanks to all. Between this thread and the one at AVSForum (which led me here), and $10 worth of parts, my 606 is back in action.

Would anyone know where we might be able to pull 12v DC so a PC fan could be added without the use of an external power supply?
Yes your in luck. The 606 chassis when in another configuration is used in a different model number of the same year lineup and in that unit a pair of fans was added. There is a 12 volt source that supplied those fans, the hdmi board at JL8001A, sirius dock terminal JL8002A, etc.
If I were you I'd tap the positive and negative leads of C9011 for fan power. And I'd add a resistor to keep the fan around 9 volts. also place a cap across the fan wires on the fan side of the resistor you add in series with the fan. The cap will suppress any noise the motor may introduce on the supply line. Resistor is to keep the fan nice and quiet by undervolting it. Select a fan that is under 100 milliamperes.
Beyond this please use your judgment and be careful. You can easily destroy sensitive electronics if your not competent to perform modifications like this.

By the way. If you do something wrong and all of a sudden your receiver wont turn on check the components on the tiny board on the secondary side of the power transformer. You likely opened a resistor there.
BE CAREFUL.

Last edited by spldart; 09-27-2010 at 10:28 AM..
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:23 PM   #122  
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Thanks for the quick reply. Was this the 7xx or 8xx series? I suppose the case was modified to allow for the fans. I'd like to put in one of these (blowing down with a filter on the outside), NM can't post a URL., but it's a Yate Loon 120mm low speed that draws 300ma. The 80mm version draws 100ma. I have the 120mm in my DVR and it's tres quiet. Maybe I can tap 12v at 2 points and have 2x80mm, one blowing in/down on the hot stuff and the other exhausting.

EDIT - I made the same request over at AVSForum, and the OP suggested a point on the HDMI board. The AVSForum thread is 1246078/Page 3.

DOUBLE EDIT!! - See attachment, would this work?
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Last edited by provels; 09-27-2010 at 04:39 PM..
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:27 AM   #123  
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It would be easier but I'd be to concerned about introducing any noise to a supply line at the hdmi pcb. Onkyo seemed concerned about that 12 volt line as well as they took measures to isolate noise from it getting on the hdmi board. I'd tap for a fan at the aforementioned cap.
Your receiver. Your choice.
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Old 09-30-2010, 01:36 PM   #124  
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Bleh, after breaking the receiver down to get to C9011, I can't get the solder to melt with a 30W iron. That should be enough, no? I'm not a chef, but I can folow a recipe. Well, actually, I was a chef...but I digress...
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:45 PM   #125  
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Default digression temporarily resumed....

Well 'Chef' provels, I don't know what type of tip you're using but you could try scraping it (while hot) to remove contaminants, re-wet it with fresh solder, and lastly apply some extra solder to the contact point at the moment you attempt to get the cap's pad to melt. The fresh solder/flux will help w/heat transfer, much like butter or oil help to fry . Failing that, you might not be seeing enough of those 30W at the tip (too narrow,etc) - something required for modern lead-free solder (ROHS!) Try to limit attempts to 4-7 seconds for the sake of the component - less for smaller items.

I applaud the better-safe-than-sorry advice given out by spldart in regards to minimizing additional current/noise to an already sensitive unit. AFAIK, the point I suggested is as close as you can get to C9011 but for the board-to-board connection.

Last edited by CZ_the_DAY; 10-01-2010 at 10:53 PM.. Reason: AFAIK part
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Old 10-02-2010, 07:41 AM   #126  
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At this point, I have abandoned trying to get the solder to take for fear of toasties. Besides, the weekend is here and family unit needs audio. At this point I have added a 120mm Yate Loon low speed fan from my DVR (where it really wasn't needed) cable tied to the inside of the case blowing out and powered by a 12V brick. Brought the temp down from 45C to 33C while watching TV and giving it a high power workout with "Starship Troopers" last night saw a max of 41C. Still really like to see the fan power automatically with the receiver. Maybe a thermistor controlled fan is the way to go with the brick, something like Antec Smart Cool 120MM. Hmm, maybe that Honeywell thermostat I pulled off my furnace...
Again, thanks to all.

Last edited by provels; 10-02-2010 at 07:57 AM..
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Old 10-02-2010, 08:42 PM   #127  
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Ok.... I have two profesional grade soldering stations on my bench. One solders... the other desolders. Both are capable of at or exceeding 100 watts of heat but both are digitally regulated so as to make them delicate enough for smc work. I actually use both when heating the solder on the tabs of these regulators. I could get another higher powered iron but it works and they are sitting right next to me already.
I clean the tab of the regulator, I add some soldering rosin to the tab, I add some solder to the 'soldering iron'. I then bring that tip down to the tab and the pool of rosin and at the same time I bring the desoldering iron's tip down to the tab as well. I can get a fresh pool to work with in under 2 seconds. I have never damaged a regulator in the 100 plus boards I've done so far. I then add some more soldering rosin to the tab, and output pin, in anticipation of affixing the cap. I attach the cap to the single output pin first as this will hold the cap in place for the more difficult process of attaching the cap to the regulator's tab. I then pick up both irons and finish the job on the tab. BTW. Onkyo was using a different location for affixing the caps. I've noticed the latest boards I'm getting from onkyo are utilizing my location and attachment point. I don't know if I can claim any credit but it does make me smile.
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Old 10-02-2010, 11:11 PM   #128  
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feelin' noobish but i guess we all start out from the kiddie pool...been reverentially reading this thread and frankly am compelled ask if i should just cancel my as-of-this-evening purchase of an ONKYO TX-NR708. you guys are scaring me...
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Old 10-03-2010, 03:33 AM   #129  
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feelin' noobish but i guess we all start out from the kiddie pool...been reverentially reading this thread and frankly am compelled ask if i should just cancel my as-of-this-evening purchase of an ONKYO TX-NR708. you guys are scaring me...
Keep a few things in mind.
A) as of this time I know of no issues with the 708
B) if onkyo had known about the stability of the regulators they would have added the caps to the board already and this txsr606, htr960, dtr5.9 issue and this thread would not exist.
C) this tech run an onkyo in his theater and is glad it's not a yamaha or a sony or a harman kardon etc etc etc.

No offense to sony, yamaha, denon, hk users out there
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Old 10-27-2010, 04:03 PM   #130  
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So what does this mean to us dummies?

I don't really know what the difference is between .1uf and 1uf other than 1 is greater than .1. But what I think you said was that when the repair shop goes to replace the parts that are in the bulletin they use what they are sent, and you are saying they didn't update the tech note, just sending beefier parts. What if the repair shop uses what they've got in stock and not the new, beefier ones Onkyo's sending out?

I just don't want to have to ship my receiver to the repair shop again and again.
How was your experience with carphonics? I may ship my receiver to them in the next week for the same HDMI issue. What service did they do? Has it all worked out and would you use them again?
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Old 10-29-2010, 03:36 AM   #131  
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Spldart: I was going to post my repair to your thread, but instead of double posting (due to me being so new, fresh and so clean here), here's the link:

http://www.highdefforum.com/high-def...aka-606-a.html

Thanks for providing this thread, it really help me out a lot. Got back right with the misses and my son who was really anxious to play the Wii via component.
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Old 11-21-2010, 04:47 PM   #132  
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well, i had the same problem as everyone else.

took a couple of resets of the receiver and warming up before it would switch 1080p. then it stopped all together.

did the replacement capacitors and the added leaded capacitors, no difference.

removed the leaded capacitors so that just the new 100uF caps were on (i used the 6.3V version of the caps) and 1080p swiches perfectly.

probably only a matter of time before I have to resolder some new cap on again.

oh, and before anyone mauls their white connector like i did, just pull the wires out instead of trying to remove the actual connector itself.

thanks for the info everyone!
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:46 PM   #133  
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When making the repair will 5 x 100uf 4v surface mount capacitors and 4 x 1.0uf 64v film capacitors due?

Also I'm going to make a video on how to fix this problem to put on youtube. Would a 30watt soldering iron be alright to use on this?

Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:14 PM   #134  
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Quote:
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When making the repair will 5 x 100uf 4v surface mount capacitors and 4 x 1.0uf 64v film capacitors due?

Also I'm going to make a video on how to fix this problem to put on youtube. Would a 30watt soldering iron be alright to use on this?

Thanks for the help guys.
30 watts would be feable to get those add on tf caps soldered to the tabs. You want higher power for a very short time.
a second or three of 100 watts would be more like it. Takes a 'nack'
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:16 PM   #135  
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The other caps could be done with a lot less wattage btw.. just be careful about lifting traces.
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