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Anyone altering their driving habits due to outrageous gas prices?

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Old 01-27-2011, 09:02 PM   #376  
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I tried driving around for awhile with just the takeda short ram intake and then yesterday I decided to put back the factory air scoop with the 45 degree elbow that came with the takeda SRI that actually directs cold air right to the dry flow filter. I drove around today on both city streets and the freeway and haven't really noticed a difference in power...it still feels the same but more aggressive than with the stock air box.

Some people though have claimed that warm air is more rich than with cold air that tends to be more lean but then others have said colder air is denser and more ideal toward the engine since heat kills. So I don't know what to believe...warm air intakes tend to give more lower end power at the lower rpms, cold air intakes give more power at the higher rpms like around 6k rpm...

I figure that I'd get slightly more mileage since there's more air coming into the engine...
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Old 01-27-2011, 09:25 PM   #377  
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I tried driving around for awhile with just the takeda short ram intake and then yesterday I decided to put back the factory air scoop with the 45 degree elbow that came with the takeda SRI that actually directs cold air right to the dry flow filter. I drove around today on both city streets and the freeway and haven't really noticed a difference in power...it still feels the same but more aggressive than with the stock air box.

Some people though have claimed that warm air is more rich than with cold air that tends to be more lean but then others have said colder air is denser and more ideal toward the engine since heat kills. So I don't know what to believe...warm air intakes tend to give more lower end power at the lower rpms, cold air intakes give more power at the higher rpms like around 6k rpm...

I figure that I'd get slightly more mileage since there's more air coming into the engine...
Here's the deal, cold air is denser.
Therefore for a given volume of air more fuel is needed when cold to get the proper air fuel ratio. All this means more power when cold. The electronics will probably reduce the timing when it's hotter reducing power more to insure knocking doesn't occur.
The lower/higher rpm thing in general is not true, it just depends how the electronics adjust to the mixture and it's input parameters(temperature, airflow).

Since you don't need as much air at low rpm's the intake will not provide much of an improvement. At higher rpm's it allows the air to flow more freely getting more in the engine and providing a power boost. Use the new filter since it probably has less restriction. Disconnect the battery for a bit and let the electronics adjust to the new setup that way you don't have to wait till it finally adjusts, it will adjust right away.

Again, experiment, it's fun and you'll learn from it!
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Old 01-27-2011, 09:32 PM   #378  
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I tried driving around for awhile with just the takeda short ram intake and then yesterday I decided to put back the factory air scoop with the 45 degree elbow that came with the takeda SRI that actually directs cold air right to the dry flow filter. I drove around today on both city streets and the freeway and haven't really noticed a difference in power...it still feels the same but more aggressive than with the stock air box.

Some people though have claimed that warm air is more rich than with cold air that tends to be more lean but then others have said colder air is denser and more ideal toward the engine since heat kills. So I don't know what to believe...warm air intakes tend to give more lower end power at the lower rpms, cold air intakes give more power at the higher rpms like around 6k rpm...

I figure that I'd get slightly more mileage since there's more air coming into the engine...
Heat kills performance as there is no debate on that. It makes sense since warm air is not as dense, which means that there is less oxygen within a given volume of air. You have probably already noticed that cars are significantly more powerful in the winter, especially on a nice cold day. It is not uncommon for a car to have 20hp more during a cold winter day than a hot summer day. Whatever the temperature of the air coming into the intake, your engine's ECM along with the various sensors like the O2 and MAF will always be adjusting the air/fuel mixture to the optimal level for efficiency and performance. The problem however comes when you put on a performance intake which could change the air flow characteristics to the point that the ECM module might not be able to compensate for. An example of this was on my previous Chevy Trailblazer SS early on before I went crazy with the mods. After a performance intake was installed, it required a custom tune from the speed shop because the stock MAFS was unable to compensate for the huge change in air flow. The TBSS was known for coming with a very restrictive intake.

I don't know who has been telling you what, but again warm air will kill performance all across the rpm range. It might be most noticeable at the lowest rpms simply because engines don't produce much torque down low, but rest assured that you are getting hit even after the engine hits the powerband.

One thing that you don't want to confuse is additional noise for performance. This is a common trap among performance enthusiasts who think that just because something is louder, it must be faster. In reality, many of your typical riceboy mods that kids with Honda Civics do sound faster, but are significantly hurting performance. That is because most of them are teenagers or young college kids, and either don't have access to funds that allow them to do the mod right or are just plain naive.
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Old 01-27-2011, 10:50 PM   #379  
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so the engine probably was performing much better when I had the k&n drop-in filter with the factory air box and the front air scoop removed??

The factory air box with the k&n filter had a deeper growl and the opening was further forward away from most of the engine. The Takeda conical filter is further back like behind the battery.
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Old 01-27-2011, 11:04 PM   #380  
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so the engine probably was performing much better when I had the k&n drop-in filter with the factory air box and the front air scoop removed??

The factory air box with the k&n filter had a deeper growl and the opening was further forward away from most of the engine. The Takeda conical filter is further back like behind the battery.
To be honest, I would highly recommend against running a K&N. Those filters are junk as lots of tests have been done on them that shows how poorly they filter air. Back during my original Taurus SHO days, something we noticed was that a fine sand like dust was building up inside the intake tube for vehicles that were running K&N filters. This led us to believe that they wern't filter dirt very well. A few years ago, some Powerstroke diesel guys did some scientific testing and proved how horribly K&N's filter even when oiled properly. The other issue is that the filter oil can spray and potentially foul the MAF sensor if you overoil it. We even saw MAF-S fouling even when the filter wasn't over-oiled.

As for performance, heat is your enemy and it is likely that your current setup is giving you superior performance to the factory setup until the engine bay gets heat soaked. That said, a setup that can shield the intake from the heat of the engine bay is going to be better when it gets hotter outside. For the TBSS', most performance intakes actually utilized the factory airbox with minor modifications so that you were not drawing as much hot air. It utilized a metal tube like yours that leads to the throttle body, but it was ceramic heat coated to help insulate it from heat.

Since you paid good money for your intake, I would try to find a way to shield it. I wish I could find a picture, but my Taurus v8SHO had the ShoSHOP performance intake kit, except that it included a shield that effectively isolated the filter from the rest of the engine when the hood is shut. While it was still subject to engine heat when idling in traffic, testing showed that intake temperature was within 1 degree of outside ambient temperature once you started moving.
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Old 01-27-2011, 11:11 PM   #381  
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the v6 version of the takeda short ram intake actually includes the heat shield...not sure if you can put that on or if it would fit for the 4 cylinder version. I thought about maybe seeing if the heat shield on the injen intake might work.

Do you think a heat wrap would help to shield the intake tube?? I would assume it's already resistant against engine heat build up...

there are these heat shields that I might be able to fit onto the underside of the takeda filter...

http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?N=68...ssan&md=Altima

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Old 01-28-2011, 06:42 AM   #382  
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Do you think a heat wrap would help to shield the intake tube?? I would assume it's already resistant against engine heat build up...
Honestly, don't really worry about the intake tube, get the filter separated from the engine compartment and get outside air to it somehow.

If you think about it with airflow in the 100's of cfm's a negligible amount of heat is going to be coupled into the airstream via the intake tube.
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Old 01-28-2011, 11:52 AM   #383  
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Honestly, don't really worry about the intake tube, get the filter separated from the engine compartment and get outside air to it somehow.

If you think about it with airflow in the 100's of cfm's a negligible amount of heat is going to be coupled into the airstream via the intake tube.
Yes, but once that metal intake tube is heat soaked, it is going to seriously impact the temperature of the air being sucked in. Essentially, it kind of acts like a radiator.

I do not recommend that you heat wrap the intake tube at all. An intake like that was designed to look good, and you are defeating that purpose. Heat wrap also gets really ugly after a while, and you don't want pieces of it coming off or even flaking off. My advice is that you don't worry about the intake tube as Emil suggested, and just find a way to shield the filter from heat as well as find a way to pump fresh air to it. I will tell you right now that the intake does look very good, and i'm so glad that you are running a performance paper filter as I do not like oiled filters. I would doubt that the heat shield from the V6 Takeda kit will fit, but perhaps you can call them up and see whether some slight modifications could be made.
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:01 PM   #384  
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Yes, but once that metal intake tube is heat soaked, it is going to seriously impact the temperature of the air being sucked in. Essentially, it kind of acts like a radiator.
Remember though that a radiator has narrow passages so the fluid stays close to the wall. A round pipe is the worse shape(best in this case) for transferring heat to whatever is flowing through it. Some years back a friend did a calculation on how much heat is transferred, I wish I could find it, I'll look but I don't hold out much hope for finding it.
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:40 PM   #385  
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I may see if some of the heat shields for the spectre or Injen cai's fit. Yeah it looks like the heat shield for the v6 takeda sri is different geared to fit only the altima 3.5's.

So with oil based filters, you're saying people have a tendency to over oil and it ends up clogging the engine where as dry filter intakes are better because you just simply vacuum or wash off the dirt??

I'd probably wash and clean the filter every 30k miles even though most people would recommend every 50-100k miles. I saw my friend's k&n short ram intake on his pt cruiser and it was nasty! It was all black!!
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Old 01-28-2011, 06:43 PM   #386  
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I may see if some of the heat shields for the spectre or Injen cai's fit. Yeah it looks like the heat shield for the v6 takeda sri is different geared to fit only the altima 3.5's.

So with oil based filters, you're saying people have a tendency to over oil and it ends up clogging the engine where as dry filter intakes are better because you just simply vacuum or wash off the dirt??

I'd probably wash and clean the filter every 30k miles even though most people would recommend every 50-100k miles. I saw my friend's k&n short ram intake on his pt cruiser and it was nasty! It was all black!!
I just buy a new one every year, not a big deal.
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Old 01-29-2011, 11:51 AM   #387  
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here's my factory air scoop installed back on with the 45 degree elbow that came with the takeda short ram intake.



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Old 01-29-2011, 09:47 PM   #388  
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here's my factory air scoop installed back on with the 45 degree elbow that came with the takeda short ram intake.



That's definitely got to help!
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Old 01-30-2011, 01:13 AM   #389  
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I haven't noticed a difference in sound though or performance. I even tried driving on the freeway for about 5 miles just to see.

I think it'll sound much better once I get a custom exhaust job. I think I'm either going to get a set of axle backs or just remove the resonator and do straight piping with muffler tips.

I'd really like to get a header, but there aren't any carb legal headers for the 07+ altimas since I live in california...
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Old 01-30-2011, 06:09 AM   #390  
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I haven't noticed a difference in sound though or performance. I even tried driving on the freeway for about 5 miles just to see.

I think it'll sound much better once I get a custom exhaust job. I think I'm either going to get a set of axle backs or just remove the resonator and do straight piping with muffler tips.

I'd really like to get a header, but there aren't any carb legal headers for the 07+ altimas since I live in california...
Since you're only talking single digit gains it will be hard to tell. Heck, the hp varies that much just dependent on weather conditions. You can't listen to street talk like "it's so much stronger or better, this and that". That's the power of placebo!

Modding my car I can say the only change I made that was definitely noticeable and would justify a grandiose description was the pulley ratio change on the s/c, and that was about 70 lb-ft!. Some tunes will be noticeable also.

Sounds like you're having fun with it, keep it up!
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