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A Discussion On Video Cable Construction

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Old 01-30-2008, 06:02 PM   #16  
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You cannot go wrong with them.
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Old 01-30-2008, 06:08 PM   #17  
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Bluejean make quality cables with tight tolerences.
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:13 PM   #18  
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This might be a bit controversial, but I wan't about to pay about 100 bucks for an AV cable. An HDMI is simply 4 runs of Shielded Twisted Pair, 7 other wires, and an external shield. You can google to find out the applicable signals if you care to. In short I cut and spliced in appropriate wires to make a 3ft HDMI into 36 feet long. Works great with no issues and is currently routed from my flat screen in the bedroom to a nice HDMI/COAX/EHTERNET wall plate behind my entertainment center. It's not a hack job it looks nice, is completely functional, and not at all visible. I urge you to not waste your money on an overpriced trendy product. With a little effort anyone can do this. It might just take a little time. If you would like help I would be glad to share my knowledge or at least advice with you. If you would like one produced I can do that as well. As long as I take money away from the companies that manufacture these I am happy .
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:54 AM   #19  
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This might be a bit controversial, but I wan't about to pay about 100 bucks for an AV cable. An HDMI is simply 4 runs of Shielded Twisted Pair, 7 other wires, and an external shield. You can google to find out the applicable signals if you care to. In short I cut and spliced in appropriate wires to make a 3ft HDMI into 36 feet long. Works great with no issues and is currently routed from my flat screen in the bedroom to a nice HDMI/COAX/EHTERNET wall plate behind my entertainment center. It's not a hack job it looks nice, is completely functional, and not at all visible. I urge you to not waste your money on an overpriced trendy product. With a little effort anyone can do this. It might just take a little time. If you would like help I would be glad to share my knowledge or at least advice with you. If you would like one produced I can do that as well. As long as I take money away from the companies that manufacture these I am happy .
The one thing you are totally missing in your "work-around" is proper shielding. Shielding is very important in longer runs. Why should a person go through all that work to build a cable when they can buy a properly soldered, properly shielded, properly tested HDMI cable for around 40$ for a 35' run (Monoprice.com and other sites)?

I do agree that a person not pay the high prices of "M" cables
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Old 08-12-2009, 01:53 PM   #20  
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I am sorry I forgot to include that part....For shielding I use double braded cable sleeve soldered on both ends. So yea it does have shielding.

While we are on the subject though. I did test it out at it's current length before the shielding just because I was curious and it still worked fine....just FYI
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Old 08-15-2009, 03:44 AM   #21  
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I am sorry I forgot to include that part....For shielding I use double braded cable sleeve soldered on both ends. So yea it does have shielding.

While we are on the subject though. I did test it out at it's current length before the shielding just because I was curious and it still worked fine....just FYI
Is it possible to splice your own HDMI cable? Maybe.

Would you want to? Probably not.

Given a 25~35ft run runs $25~40ish, once you add the cost of the wire, the cost of braded shielding, heat shrink tubing, soldering, short HDMI run, you're not saving $25~$40ish. Maybe a percent if you get your wire on the surplus market.

You are starting to see crimp on HDMI connectors, though I lost the link, but odds are high that such custom lengths would cost higher than your average monoprice cable. If you need to go through 1 inch conduit, there is the monoprice flat cable, but I imagine that if you want to run 3 or 4, the crimp on connectors become more practical.

I'm a do it yourself sort of guy, and this is something I wouldn't bother, and to be honest I doubt I have the skill. My limit is DB connectors, and even on those it's pretty cost effective to go suprlus market.
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:44 PM   #22  
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It's really not difficult to do just a bit time consuming. I did this almost a year ago when HDMI was a bit more pricey. As far as materials goes I do alot of wiring work so I actually have bulk materials readily available.
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:58 PM   #23  
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Since you can purchase high quality HDMI cables for so little at places like www.monoprice.com it seems time consuming/wasteful and absurd to attempt to make your own, that is unless you have lots of time to kill (in that case I would be making more money) or you just want to do it to say you did.
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:09 PM   #24  
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Since you can purchase high quality HDMI cables for so little at places like www.monoprice.com it seems time consuming/wasteful and absurd to attempt to make your own, that is unless you have lots of time to kill (in that case I would be making more money) or you just want to do it to say you did.
Well when I did it I did have a signifficant amount of time to kill....just moved to a new area and really didn't have anything to do. Also I really enjoy doing stuff like that. I completely agree with the monoprice thing if you don't want to do it yourself or can't. I am not saying that everyone must/should do it I am just saying it's possible and I have done it.

Actually I just bought a few 1.5 ft cables for $3 each online. Not sure how good of quality they are, but I am about to build a few more just like the one I have described. Not building them for anyone else, just seeing if there is a major difference and if I can improve my design/process. Simply to satisfy curiosity. I should be completely finished by thursday.

Talking with all of you I get the impression as if I committed some huge sin in the electronics world by doing this. Quite silly really
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Old 08-17-2009, 05:51 PM   #25  
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Talking with all of you I get the impression as if I committed some huge sin in the electronics world by doing this. Quite silly really
Not sure about the level of the sin, but certainly goes against good and established engineering practices.
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Old 08-18-2009, 10:01 AM   #26  
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Well yeah that is true. But it can be fun to just screw around with stuff. Could be an interesting learning experience for someone new to wiring and stuff. I don't think it's a good idea for someone to try this for no reason but for novice's (no offense people) it is enlightening to just look inside the beast. I personally will try this with anything.....it's fun for me ya know.
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Old 04-23-2011, 08:37 PM   #27  
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The one thing you are totally missing in your "work-around" is proper shielding. Shielding is very important in longer runs.
I am going to disagree on this statement, when you are talking about balanced signal designs.

In the example of signals that are run in a balanced design, sheilding is not particularly important. In fact, in most professional or long run applications, the sheild is lifted on oneof the ends.

In a balanced design, the + and - signals are carried on the twisted pair.The + and - are not positive and negative. Technically it is plus = non-inverting and minus = inverting. The sheild does not carry any signal. The sheild is only connected to ground.

In a long run between two devices, if the two devices are not connected to a good and solid common ground, one ground will be standing off the other. Less than ideal grounding is what I would expect in most home wiring.

This can cause problems. Problems that are easiest to solve by lifting the sheild at one of the ends.

Looking at the HDMI spec, they use a balanced signal design. if you had problems with a long run of HDMI, the first thing I would suggest is get rid of the shield.
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:03 PM   #28  
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I am going to disagree on this statement, when you are talking about balanced signal designs.

In the example of signals that are run in a balanced design, sheilding is not particularly important. In fact, in most professional or long run applications, the sheild is lifted on oneof the ends.

In a balanced design, the + and - signals are carried on the twisted pair.The + and - are not positive and negative. Technically it is plus = non-inverting and minus = inverting. The sheild does not carry any signal. The sheild is only connected to ground.

In a long run between two devices, if the two devices are not connected to a good and solid common ground, one ground will be standing off the other. Less than ideal grounding is what I would expect in most home wiring.

This can cause problems. Problems that are easiest to solve by lifting the sheild at one of the ends.

Looking at the HDMI spec, they use a balanced signal design. if you had problems with a long run of HDMI, the first thing I would suggest is get rid of the shield.
You do realize that this is a 2 year old post you are responding to...
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:46 PM   #29  
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You do realize that this is a 2 year old post you are responding to...
And your point it is . . . . . . ?

It is a sticky, somebody thinks it is important enough to keep it at the top of the page.

Thought I wanted to provide information to help correct what I believe to be misinformation, on a topic that is relevant, even two whole years later.

ETA grammar & spelling
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:04 PM   #30  
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Just making you aware. Thanks for the updated info.
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