High Def Forum
Thank you for visiting. This is our website archive. Please visit our main website by clicking the logo above.

Need help with my Toshiba 34HF84

azmodien
11-05-2005, 01:50 AM
The Toshiba 34HF84 that I ordered just arrived and I am having trouble adjusting the picture. I used AVIA to set my levels and discovered that the light output is MUCH lower than my 26HF84. The color accuracy is certainly an improvement but the 26" ORION just provides a more overall pleasing image. The 34" just looks dim in comparison.

I played with the settings and noticed that I have to set the contrast to the max of 100 in order to match the light output of the 26". And if I turn the brightness past 35, the blacks completely wash out. I tried to let my eyes adjust and tell myself that it was a more "natural" image, but in the end the 34HF84 just doesnt have that 3D 'pop' like my crappy Orion. The colors just arent as bright and details arent as apparent.

The unit was a display model so I am worried that the picture tube was damaged from running in torch mode in the store. Obviously I could go into the service menu and increase the maximum contrast but that probably wouldnt be good for the set(?). Im sure that having brightness at 30 and contrast at 100 is not what is normally required for this set. My settings on the 26" are more like contrast 37 and brightness 32.

Does anyone have any suggestions or could post their picture settings (if you own the same set). Returning the set is unfortunately not an option.

Thanks.

Emsurfer
11-05-2005, 03:38 PM
Ja and Jsslifelike has your exact model and would be better adept at helping you. However, have you tried changing the color temp to "cooler" setting? I have the 26HF85. :eek:

jsslifelike
11-05-2005, 05:12 PM
I've used the settings that ja2935 gave me and I've been very pleased with the PQ of the set. Here's what he posted:

Contrast = 65
Brightness = 36
Color = 37
Sharpness = 22 (or less)
Tint = R1
Color Temp = Medium
You might find that you need to increase the brightness for some SD stations to about 50 to 55.
Are your other settings anywhere in that ballpark overall? This the first HD set I've owned, so I can't say how bright it actually is. The cool temp thing may work if you can maybe take the tint a bit on the red side. But you're right- your black white levels shouldn't be like that. I'm not sure about the service codes- I'm too scared to mess with them. If you can't remedy the problem, you may wanna take a loss, dump the set for like $500, then put that toward a brand new 85...

azmodien
11-05-2005, 06:10 PM
Ja and Jsslifelike has your exact model and would be better adept at helping you. However, have you tried changing the color temp to "cooler" setting? I have the 26HF85. :eek:

Yes it is in cool mode. The picture is actually quite nice for HD with:

Contrast: 100
Brightness: 20
Color: 42

If I decrease the contrast, it is too dim. If I increase the brightness, the blacks turn grey. My main question I guess, is will I damage my set by keeping the contrast up and would it be stupid to bump up the available contrast in the service menu?

Emsurfer
11-06-2005, 06:43 AM
Note Jsslifelike's settings. His contrast is set to 65/100. Mine is about 28/50. Should be around 40-60% approximately. A new TV should be broken in slowly especially CRTs and Plasmas to allow the phosphorus to age slowly kinda like a new car. Unfortunately it sounds like you need a replacement set which should be done while it's under warranty. Setting of 100% on the contrast is not normal. :(

azmodien
11-06-2005, 07:10 AM
The components give me a little bit better levels. Optimum settings are:

Contrast: 100
Brightness: 35
Color: 42
Tint: R3
Sharpness: 35
Temp: Cool

Everything looks absolutely FANTASTIC at this setting.

Bringing contrast down to 65 makes it too dim for HD signals though. I am thinking that maybe I am just used to high contrast from my old TV (?). Is it possible that it is just a matter of preference?

Emsurfer
11-06-2005, 07:56 AM
If you have Star Wars III or any DVD with THX optimizer on it, use that to adjust your contrast. This gives you a more objective method to do it. Could you turn the contrast down to 80-85%? So you don't burn out the phosphorus. I had my old TV (non-HD) with the contrast turned all the way up for 3 years but once I went HD I read that the contrast should be about 40-60% and intially I have to admit it seemed dim, but now my eyes have adapted. The EYE is a beautiful organ. :eek:

jsslifelike
11-06-2005, 08:07 AM
Is is at all possible that someone(salesman or rep) turned the contrast down for some reason via the service menu? I dunno why the hell they'd do that(to promote a brighter, more expensive set maybe?) but it's worth a shot. Do you have or can you get the factory reset values for the service menu at all? Hopefully it's that simple...

masmith
11-06-2005, 12:34 PM
How do you get to the service menu?

azmodien
11-06-2005, 02:52 PM
How do you get to the service menu?

Yes, I am looking for that info as well.

ja2935
11-06-2005, 07:18 PM
It is very interesting that the settings I posted some time ago work for other people with the 34HF84. I picked them up from another BB and double checked with the DVE disc. It suggests to me that Toshiba is pretty consistent with the range of menu operated settings. My conclusions are either your set is in fact damaged OR you prefer a much brighter picture than many people! I do not believe a store would actually alter service menu settings.

Porcupine
01-27-2006, 04:46 AM
You deleted your post. :(

How can I get into the Toshiba service menu? 8)

waltchan
01-28-2006, 09:25 PM
You deleted your post. :(

How can I get into the Toshiba service menu? 8)
What is the TV model number?

Porcupine
01-29-2006, 12:17 AM
I had and have again a Toshiba 30HF85 but that's okay, I already figured out how to get into the service menu after some more websearching, but thanks anyway. :)

I've actually decided to try and return this one as well, if Sears will let me. This one has an annoying weird problem where the color convergence is awful (about a 4 set displacement of horizontal screen pixels/lines at times), both in certain areas, but especially with certain color transition combinations which actually occur everywhere. I think this phenomena is actually two things going wrong, not one. The problem that occurs everywhere is not normal, I think.

With white text on black, I also get another weird phenomena. The colors actually appear to converge perfectly in most areas (the global color convergence is seemingly unaffected by the transition between white and black) but what I get is two sets of blurred double-image white texts, which are displaced from each other about 2 scanlines in the *vertical* direction, and thus get a funny blurred thick white text with gray outlines on top and bottom. Weird.

I'm gonna return this one too, if Sears will let me without charging a restocking fee...

waltchan
01-29-2006, 03:37 AM
I'm gonna return this one too, if Sears will let me without charging a restocking fee...
Sears does not charge a restocking fee. You are fine.

Porcupine
01-29-2006, 12:18 PM
I figured out how to describe better what is wrong with my image. What is normally referred to as color convergence is not the main issue at all (there are some issues but those I can live with).

What is happening is the the color information signal is leading the luminance signal by a humongous constant 5 pixels to the left everywhere. This can appear terrible (in yellow subtitles, an "l" or "i" will appear completely white instead of yellow) or be less noticeable depending on how quickly the color information is varying from left to right. This definitely makes colored text unreadable.

I also just realized that this problem only exists this badly with my component (3) cable connectors (both sets of inputs). It still exists but is only half as bad with the composite connectors. So that helps narrow down the problem area a little.

The other equally bad phenomena on this unit that creates a sort of double image offset in the *vertical* direction (white text appears thick with a half-intensity gray outline on top and bottom) is probably unrelated as it exists whether or not I use component or composite connectors.

Sigh, I have to return this TV again. I dunno what I will get though....the Sony 30HS420 is too big for the space I was putting the Toshiba in due to the large side speakers. Pretty much only the Toshiba will fit in there; it's a tight squeeze. :P Maybe Sears will let me open a new Toshiba and test it in-store....

My first Toshiba had neither of these problems so I know this is an issue of terrible quality control. The problem was my first Toshiba had other problems....(it couldn't even accept 480i through component; picture would desynch)...

waltchan
01-29-2006, 12:53 PM
If you have any patience, wait for the new Toshiba 30HF66, which is due by February. It is the replacement of the 30HF85. The new 30HF66 comes with a built-in HDTV tuner and maybe the problems found in the 30HF85 are gone.

Porcupine
01-30-2006, 02:20 PM
I ended up getting yet another Toshiba 30HF85, hehe. It is the only size/shape to fit my desired specifications. Actually, I had gone as far as having completed a purchase of a Sony 30HS420 from Sears, only to find out at the last minute that there were none in stock in the entire state and that there would probably be none for a month or ever again. So I got a refund and re-did more TV searching and staring for a day (now that I know more about what artifacts to look for) and in the end noticed almost all other brands displayed the same artifacts (and more) as the Toshibas so I just ended up getting Toshiba again, this time from Best Buy.

The Sears guys here gave me a lot of grief. They tried to charge me a re-stocking fee and it took me 3 hours of arguing (and them running out of Sony 30") to get a full refund. Actually it even turns out a re-stocking fee is illegal in my state, according to Best Buy. But I think it was only some Sears guys, if I had gone to different Sears or talked to different guys I'd probably have had it easier.

My 3rd Toshiba turned out to be a near-clone of my 2nd, except with slight improvements in all aspects (and worse in no aspects). So my 2nd unit was a bit below par but overall not a lemon or anything. The in-store Toshibas also appeared to be similar to my 2nd/3rd Toshibas. It was my 1st unit only that was a weirdo unit (some inputs did not work, picture quality was totally different, far better in some ways and far worse in others).

I thought about waiting as you suggested but I didn't want to dig out my old 20" 20 years old TV again.... ^_^; Plus I figure the new model might cost $50 or $100 more, and at the moment an HD-integrated set doesn't matter to me since I don't even get digital cable.