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Cutting Orange Wire Trick Solved!

09-03-2010, 08:41 PM
This applies to the WD series with V26 Chassis. If your set has the built in DVR this will not work, YET!

It Applies to: WD-52525, WD-62525. It might work on: WD-52725,
and WD-62725. If this works on your WD series, let us know!

So I've done a lot of reading and learned a lot about electronics in the last 3 months. It all started when I got a TV for FREE.

It was a Mitsubishi WS series television with GBLOD issue. Learned all about replacing caps and soldering from the internet. I even bought expensive multimeters to check capacitors and crystals.

Which led me to my first WD series Television. It had the GBLOD so I figured hey its an easy fix. Bought the capacitors that the instructions I got online said to replace and I did. However, this time the light was still blinking.

So I went online and read some more and learned about disconnecting the power supply from the FMT board and sure enough the light went out. The solution was to install a toggle switch. That was not something I wanted to do. I'm a thinker so I decided to go a bit further and learn about schematics.

Obviously the FMT board connects to the DM board. When the FMT board receives power it sends information to the DM board. When the DM board doesn't like what it hears it will not allow the rest of the system to start. By pulling the power to the FMT board the DM board doesn't hear anything negative coming from the FMT board, so the DM board gives the go ahead for the system to start.

Well I narrowed down this communication to the FB connector on the FMT board. If this ribbon style connector is unplugged the set will boot normally. However it must be plugged back in before hitting the power button.

After looking at the schematic, 4 of the 40 pins for this connector jumped out at me. The pins are 30(PERR), 31(SERR), 32(STOP), and 33(MAIN-RST). Now I think of "ERROR" when I see the letters "ERR".

So I assumed this was the FMT boards' way of telling the DM board something was wrong. Which was causing the BGLOD.

So I figured if I could silence the FMT board the DM board would handle its business.

I accomplished this by sliding a very thin strip of paper(inside of the FB connector) wide enough to prevent pins 30 and 31 from making contact with pins 30 and 31 on the ribbon style connector.

It worked!

I can unplug the set and plug it back in. It will still boot normally without the need of the Orange wire trick. No Switches, no cutting holes, and no extra wires.

I would appreciate any feedback or comments on this. Forgive my grammar if there are mistakes.

09-03-2010, 11:05 PM
For those of you that need instructions on how to dismantle The WD-52525, WD-62525, WD-52725, WD-62725, WD-52825 or WD-62825 so that you can service the DM module, FMT or other parts located on the chassis, I have hosted a pdf file with photos and instructions on how to do so. You can find them here www.deadvirus.com/pics/dlp.pdf

01-25-2011, 03:41 PM
I installed a switch as well and the TV turned on!

Problem I am having is that I now have no INPUT recognition. I tried hooking up DVD player and the TV acted like it was not there!

Any thoughts?

01-26-2011, 10:34 PM
Apparently the problem was the a/v cables.....both sets....that I tried. Hooked up the wii tonight for the heck of it and it worked!

07-31-2011, 08:43 AM
I had the 52525 and it quit after about 4 1/2 years. I had tried a new lamp but that wasn't the problem... still have "new" lamp and first replacement that was good.
I got twice the capacitors I needed from what I read on here, and took the set apart. I replaced the commonly bad 4 large and 2 small(?) caps and found two more large that were bulged, so I replaced those... all poorly. My "cold solder" solderer tip broke... already was a bit broken, so I grabbed the regular-sized one and proceeded to deep fry the PC board. I figured I was doing that, but I really didn't care at that point. I'm sure that I ran solder down between layers and the set didn't work when I tried to power it up. I was really ready to bail on it and get something bigger and better.

I ordered a CR-highest-rated 58" Samsung Plasma and mounted it about 3" below my 9 foot ceiling and couldn't be happier. I carried the DLP and several Pentium PC's to a recycling remote setup for convenience closer than usual and got rid of my problems. I was ready for newer technology and a bigger, less bulky screen, plus 1080P and Blu-ray. I got mine from Amazon with free 2-day delivery and saved a bundle.

This site is really helpful if you're a decent solderer or get someone who is. A bit of patience helps, too. In this day of throw away stuff, a little DIY can extend the life and prevent a lot of waste. Many thanks and kudos to all of you who help others and share information here.


08-02-2011, 08:55 AM
" . . .highest-rated 58" Samsung Plasma and mounted it about 3" below my 9 foot ceiling"

I'm curious why you mounted that plasma so very close to the ceiling . . . three inches is barely enough space to dissipate the heat.

08-02-2011, 10:10 AM
" . . .highest-rated 58" Samsung Plasma and mounted it about 3" below my 9 foot ceiling"

I'm curious why you mounted that plasma so very close to the ceiling . . . three inches is barely enough space to dissipate the heat.

3" not only will you have heat problems but you'll soon be looking for a neck-brace....why so high ?

08-03-2011, 04:55 AM
I actually screwed up a bit, intending it to be probably 6 inches lower, but erred in the translation of measurements from the mount and TV. It worked out perfectly, though, because we use recliners and and the angle is just right. It's fine for the couch behind our chairs, too. Anyone sitting behind us could see the TV unobstructed.

The height is ample for lifting and placing the mount adapter on the TV into the receiver on the wall mount. Our chairs are about 9 feet out from the wall and reclined, the perpendicular distance from screen to our eyes is about 12 feet.

The top edge of the TV is about 4 1/2" below the ceiling and it's about 10" or so away from the wall with the tilt.

I don't think there's any heat buildup problem. I keep the air set at 71-72 and most of our viewing is at night when the A/C works fine. Heat pumps only give about a 20-22 drop over the ambient outdoor temperature.

I thought I remembered seeing somewhere that the power requirement was about 350 watts for the TV, but my new APC UPS shows only about 250 watts being used with the TV and DISH receiver on, and about 50 watts with the TV off.

I tried to post Flickr photos, but I don't have enough posts.:(

Trying attachments. The UPS is showing 362 minutes power available with about 52 watts load... TV off.

Not shown is another APC 1250 VA UPS behind the cabinet to power all of the DVRs and other stuff.

I use UPS's for every piece of electronic gear in the house. If I have to use my generator, the voltage really varies and I've never lost any equipment or any of my many hard drives due to power fluctuations, and my programs get recorded, power loss or not. I'm kind of anal about that.

We enjoy our movies at home when the DVD's are released... without the children and cell-phone users' noise... AND I can commentate, though my wife hates that, too.


03-03-2012, 10:11 PM

I have a WD-62525. Thanks for the the guidance and the .pdf showing how to dismantle the tv. However, once inside, I found an orange ribbon cable connected to the FMT board. There is also a white ribbon which is a little smaller. The orange ribbon is labeled as FA on the FMT board and the white one FB. In reading your post, it sounds like I should be dealing with the orange ribbon, but it's FA not FB as you also indicate. You mention the ribbon cable is a 40 pin connector. Given that the orange cable is bigger, I assume this is the 40 pin one. Which is it? Also, there is no numbering on the ribbon cable nor the connector. How did you determine what pins number 30 and 31 were?

03-04-2012, 01:36 PM
I have a 2002, WD-62525. I tried the method you mentioned above. I opened the chassis, found the FB 40-pin ribbon (which is white with blue trim), removed from clamp and located pins 30 and 31 on the ribbon, covered them with a very thin strip of tape to prevent connection, reinserted the ribbon into the ribbon clamp and secured it. Plugged all the wire harnesses back together, put the chassis back together and plugged the TV in. I still get the GBLOD.

At this point, I can break everything down and double-check my work, by a new DM board, or trash the TV.

Any thoughts on what I might have overlooked or did incorrectly?

03-09-2012, 02:02 AM
Wow my neck already hurts lol https://www.asdfhacks.com/wp-content/upload/34/e/tongue.gif

08-17-2014, 10:12 AM
I had the same issue with a WD62725 as you did. I replaced everything and the unit still had the GBLOD. I sent the chassis out for a rebuild ($475.00) and the unit worked great for about seven months...one month longer than the warrantee on the rebuild. At this point I bought a new TV and put that one in the basement. After collecting dust for four years I read this post and decided to give it another try. I covered pins 30 & 31 with a strip of scotch tape. Low and behold, it worked perfectly. I gave the TV to some friends of mine for their new house. No issues yet. Thanks for a GREAT post!