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Panasonic TC-P50U1 or the Samsung PN50B550

RY35AN
10-02-2009, 08:48 AM
Looking for a little help, I currently have a Toshiba 46XV645u and the clouding and flashlighting are driving me nuts. I was looking at getting a Plasma (for the better picture quality IMO)

I do game for about 2 hours a night, matbe 3-4 pn the weekends plus 1 or 2 movies a week (letterboxed). Would this be an issue?

Thanks for your help.

gamebred
10-02-2009, 08:54 AM
The first one in your title...without a doubt. :D

RY35AN
10-02-2009, 09:15 AM
You don't think the gaming and movie viewing would be an issue? I wouldn't leave the image on pause for hours or anything like that. I am careful but I don't want to be a stress case when watching the TV either. Thanks again!

Loves2Watch
10-02-2009, 11:16 AM
You don't think the gaming and movie viewing would be an issue? I wouldn't leave the image on pause for hours or anything like that. I am careful but I don't want to be a stress case when watching the TV either. Thanks again!

I use my Panasonic plasma for gaming for hours on end without any problems at all. It beats LCD displays by a long shot and doesn't have the lag LCD's do.

PFC5
10-02-2009, 12:46 PM
I would consider upgrading from that P50U1 to the P50S1, so you get the new NeoPDP panel and anti glare glass.

RY35AN
10-02-2009, 01:04 PM
I'll have to check if they have that model.
The catch for me is that I have to get it from Best Buy. I have to return the Tosh and get a replacement due to the clouding and flashlighting.

I've been stubborn about getting a Plasma because of my gaming and movie viewing. But, after trying a few LCD's I'm pretty much fed up with them. They all seem to have one issue or another (especially in my price range)

RY35AN
10-02-2009, 01:15 PM
Just wanted to say thanks for the comments and suggestions. I've tried posting this question in other forums and have been largely ignored.

PFC5
10-02-2009, 01:20 PM
Glad we could help. We seem to be the forum to go to when people are new to HD because we all still remember when we were just learning all this ourselves.

BTW, BB does have the S1 and it is on sale for $200.00 off at $1199.99 here:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp;jsessionid=4E2EB8556C7BB700707A5584B83 263C8.bbolsp-app03-08?_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&_dynSessConf=-586457695930218359&id=pcat17071&type=page&st=p50s1&sc=Global&cp=1&nrp=15&sp=&qp=&list=n&iht=y&usc=All+Categories&ks=960

Remember you can usually talk them done some if you approach it the right way and mention all the hassles you have had just simply trying to buy a TV.

Good luck!

RY35AN
10-02-2009, 02:19 PM
Hmm, maybe I could swing that. So as far as moderate gaming and plasmas it shouldn't be a problem?

PFC5
10-02-2009, 03:43 PM
The older the plasma gets the more resistant to Image Retention (IR) and burn-in it becomes just like with tube CRTs.

We have played for hours and I never had a problem. If a game gets paused I just change the input to regular TV while paused so a static image is not on the screen for an extended time. What is most important is to do the break in during the first 100-200 hours when it is new and more prone to IM. Also setting the display up for accurate PQ rather than overblown ovrsaturation and overly bright settings.

If you want an accurate & realistic picture a plasma will be the best for that.

RY35AN
10-02-2009, 05:03 PM
Thanks! I have no problem being a little careful. I'll keep you updated!

Thanks again

Reefguy
10-03-2009, 04:37 PM
This so uncanny. I too, am looking at either the Panasonic or the Samsung from BestBuy. I came here to ask the exact same question, which one?
Samsung = $999.99
Panasonic = $1199.99
The general concensus seems to favor the Panasonic.

PFC5
10-03-2009, 04:43 PM
Panasonic is my choice.

RY35AN
10-03-2009, 07:05 PM
I ended up getting the Samsung. They were all out of the Panny so, there you go. I wanted the PN50B650 but they were all out of those as well.

So far, I am extremely happy with my purchase. The difference in pq quality between plasma and lcd is night and day to me. (at least in my price range)

I have the brightness at 45 and contrast at 45. It's a bit on the dark side but hopefully I'll get used to it for the first 100 hours

daleb
10-04-2009, 09:37 AM
I ended up getting the Samsung. They were all out of the Panny so, there you go. I wanted the PN50B650 but they were all out of those as well.

So far, I am extremely happy with my purchase. The difference in pq quality between plasma and lcd is night and day to me. (at least in my price range)

I have the brightness at 45 and contrast at 45. It's a bit on the dark side but hopefully I'll get used to it for the first 100 hours


I would use 50/75 for starters.
Make sure to use gray bars for non HD (SD) programming, or stretch options in the menu.

Use Movie Mode, Warm 2, sharpness below 20.

Make sure any 'Dynamic' , NR, and 'edge enhancement' are all turned OFF.
Gamma at 0 or +1. Cell light at 10. Flesh tone '0'.
Leave Color Space & White Balance adjustments at the default menu settings for now.

Try tweaktv.com for instant recommended initial settings in the meantime.

Get an Avia or other recommended calibration disk to fine tune your adjustments for the best picture.

Enjoy!!

RY35AN
10-04-2009, 02:28 PM
Thanks for the settings! These are good for the break-in period right?

Does anyone know the difference between the PN50B550 and the PN50B560? It looks like the internet connection is the only thing?

daleb
10-04-2009, 05:28 PM
Thanks for the settings! These are good for the break-in period right?

Does anyone know the difference between the PN50B550 and the PN50B560? It looks like the internet connection is the only thing?

Typically that's it. In the previous years the 650 had a less reflective screen coating. Differences are subtle to the best of my knowledge.
Settings should be fine for 'break-in'. They are basically what I used before having it professionally calibrated 150 hrs later.

RY35AN
10-05-2009, 11:48 AM
Played Batman game last night, got IR from the HUD. Freaked a little and then watched as it went away. If this will be the normal procedure for IR then it's not a problem at all! From what I understand as the TV ages then IR will become less of an issue correct?

daleb
10-05-2009, 12:01 PM
Played Batman game last night, got IR from the HUD. Freaked a little and then watched as it went away. If this will be the normal procedure for IR then it's not a problem at all! From what I understand as the TV ages then IR will become less of an issue correct?

That is correct. Make sure the picture is natural, not too contrasty.
I would avoid gaming until you have some real hours on it.
I am not really into games so did not even think to mention that before.
You don't want static images on the screen for prolonged periods.
I find regular channel logos are not a problem.

The screen protection menu has some modes you can use. The rolling screen is said to be the most effective. It is also the best one to detect any IR.
After some time, if I saw IR I did not even bother. Just watched regular HD programming. Went back after an hour or two just to check and it was gone.
Only time I see any IR now is a very long pause especially if the timer bar from a DVR is present, or occasionally some news channels programs (CNN, etc.) that have a contrasty bar and logo near the bottom of the screen.
I just ignore it, and find it's gone in several minutes. In most all cases once the screen is broken in, if it does appear, it is only for a short time. For me it's a non-problem, but I am not into gaming or using my PC on the monitor.
Black side bars are more harmful than anything else over a long period of time. Use gray bars or 'stretch' if you watch a lot of SD programs.

RY35AN
10-05-2009, 02:55 PM
Yeah, I usually only game for maybe 1-2 hours. I had the History channel on for a while last night and I didn't see any lasting images from that. I do plan on watching Blu-rays (maybe 1 or 2 a week) and those have bars on the top and bottom. It would probably be best to watch an hour and then take a 15 min break or so? (the same with gaming)

daleb
10-05-2009, 07:19 PM
Most HD movies I watch are letterboxed. Maybe 5-6 hours a week...did that since I bought it. Although it is rare I would watch one movie after another if only because I need to move around after 2 hrs. I've watched 3 hour movies, then put on something being broadcast. If there were any ill effects I never saw it. I'm sure if most of my viewing on a daily basis were letter-boxed moves, that would be another story
Just use common sense, and be extra cautious the first couple of hundred hours. It is spelled out fairly clear in most owner's manuals, it is repeated pausing of images and viewing most 4:3 material with black side bars (pillar boxes) that is most harmful over time, if it makes up a large portion of your weekly viewing.

RY35AN
10-05-2009, 09:02 PM
Yeah, I'm following the guide and your advice. Thanks again for your help, I probably would have freaked a little by now without it.

daleb
10-05-2009, 09:58 PM
Yeah, I'm following the guide and your advice. Thanks again for your help, I probably would have freaked a little by now without it.

No problem, I had my concerns too, now after a year has gone by I just enjoy the hell out of it!

RY35AN
10-08-2009, 10:14 AM
Well, I'm hanginig in there but, I seem to still be experiencing alot of IR. Could it be that I have a bad set? Or maybe the IR will just be the "norm"?

daleb
10-08-2009, 11:17 AM
Well, I'm hanginig in there but, I seem to still be experiencing alot of IR. Could it be that I have a bad set? Or maybe the IR will just be the "norm"?

I don't know what to tell you...I seldom see it....are there any firmware updates for your display? Check the Samsung website for firmware updates..in my mind I can not quite connect firmware changes with IR, which I think has more do with a fixed panel design. But maybe there is something there.

Have you used Avia, etc to calibrate? That might help....
how many hours would you estimate you have now?

RY35AN
10-08-2009, 04:23 PM
I did take some calibrations settings from another sight, right now I have it at:

Cell Light-5
Contrast-50
Brightness-50
Color-53
Tint-green-35-red-65

White Balance-
Red offset-22
Green offset-25
Blue Offset- 12
Red Gain- 33
Green gain-25
Blue Gain-33

The rest are all off.

There's still the chance that I'm being overly paranoid though!

daleb
10-08-2009, 05:07 PM
I did take some calibrations settings from another sight, right now I have it at:

Cell Light-5
Contrast-50
Brightness-50
Color-53
Tint-green-35-red-65

White Balance-
Red offset-22
Green offset-25
Blue Offset- 12
Red Gain- 33
Green gain-25
Blue Gain-33

The rest are all off.

There's still the chance that I'm being overly paranoid though!

Normally,(whatever 'normal' is.... ) contrast is set much higher...and cell light at least 7 or 8
I would leave the white balance at it's default positions.
It might explain why you have tint so skewed. Normally (there we go again) it is very close to 50/50.
After doing that, get a calibration disk and go through it carefully. I think you will be more pleased
with the picture after doing that.
While there are set to set differences at times, some settings seem quite basic with these.

When (or if) you get a cal disk, note you can turn on a 'blue screen' in the Samsung menu.
This will aid in making color adjustments much easier than using the blue cellophane glasses
normally provided with the disk.

Loves2Watch
10-08-2009, 05:19 PM
I did take some calibrations settings from another sight, right now I have it at:

Cell Light-5
Contrast-50
Brightness-50
Color-53
Tint-green-35-red-65

White Balance-
Red offset-22
Green offset-25
Blue Offset- 12
Red Gain- 33
Green gain-25
Blue Gain-33

The rest are all off.

There's still the chance that I'm being overly paranoid though!

And your sharpness is at 0 right?

RY35AN
10-08-2009, 07:56 PM
And your sharpness is at 0 right?

No, it's at 10.

50 is the default. Would that actually be 0?

I'm keeping the contrast down for the first 100 hours due to the "break-in" period. Is that right?

I liked the settings you suggested Daleb but I figured that I would apply those after the "break-in" period.

Loves2Watch
10-09-2009, 08:11 AM
No, it's at 10.

50 is the default. Would that actually be 0?

I'm keeping the contrast down for the first 100 hours due to the "break-in" period. Is that right?

I liked the settings you suggested Daleb but I figured that I would apply those after the "break-in" period.

Any sharpness above 0 on your TV adds artifacts and degrades the HD picture, FYI...

daleb
10-09-2009, 08:50 AM
No, it's at 10.

50 is the default. Would that actually be 0?

I'm keeping the contrast down for the first 100 hours due to the "break-in" period. Is that right?

I liked the settings you suggested Daleb but I figured that I would apply those after the "break-in" period.

Take note on the sharpness...it should be down to zero. All the more reason you should run a calibration disk, it is an education in itself.

I never ran those settings myself during break-in..I used Avia to set them up within a few days of purchase.

RY35AN
10-10-2009, 02:49 PM
Took the sharpness down to "0" and went back to the original settings, looks good. I watched my first blu-ray last night "Trick 'r' Treat" looked great! it was letterboxed, I was a little nervous after the movie ended I could see Image Retention big time where the black bars were. It went away but man! I've just got to get used to this I guess. Still happy overall though.

I'm going to buy one of those calibration discs next week and see if I can make any improvements.

PFC5
10-10-2009, 02:53 PM
That is one of the reasons I went with Panasonic as they & pioneer seem to have the most resistance to IR compared to the other plasma brands.

RY35AN
10-11-2009, 01:12 AM
That is one of the reasons I went with Panasonic as they & pioneer seem to have the most resistance to IR compared to the other plasma brands.

I went back to Best Buy today and looked at the Panasonic 50-S1and the picture looks comparable to the Samsung to me. I'm thinking if the IR doesn't calm down by next week I will be doing an exchange.

I also looked at some LCD's but..it's just not the same quality in my price range.

PFC5
10-11-2009, 01:18 AM
Do you like the black levels of the Samsung? If you do then the S1 is slightly better and BOTH are much better than what you would get with a LCD.

RY35AN
10-11-2009, 11:49 AM
I'm sure the S1 will be a great picture. Although, I did read about it having a "green push"?. If the S1 will/can handle the IR better than it will be a no-brainer for me.

anthead
10-11-2009, 12:01 PM
Took the sharpness down to "0" and went back to the original settings, looks good. I watched my first blu-ray last night "Trick 'r' Treat" looked great! it was letterboxed, I was a little nervous after the movie ended I could see Image Retention big time where the black bars were. It went away but man! I've just got to get used to this I guess. Still happy overall though.

I'm going to buy one of those calibration discs next week and see if I can make any improvements.

is this a given with plasmas? will this happen with every1?

PFC5
10-11-2009, 12:37 PM
is this a given with plasmas? will this happen with every1?

See my post #33 above. ;)

daleb
10-11-2009, 02:27 PM
I went back to Best Buy today and looked at the Panasonic 50-S1and the picture looks comparable to the Samsung to me. I'm thinking if the IR doesn't calm down by next week I will be doing an exchange.

I also looked at some LCD's but..it's just not the same quality in my price range.

I would consider it if I were buying today, I think overall the Panasonic would be a better choice for you.

Of course, a Kuro would be my number one choice (now they have at least one model still available) but the Panny my 2nd.

RY35AN
10-11-2009, 08:37 PM
I would consider it if I were buying today, I think overall the Panasonic would be a better choice for you.

Of course, a Kuro would be my number one choice (now they have at least one model still available) but the Panny my 2nd.

The Panasonic S1 just went on sale for $999.00 that's the same price I paid for the Samsung so it will be an even trade if I exchange. Here's the funny thing, I'm starting to notice that the IR is disappearing fairly quickly now on The Samsung. LOL.

RY35AN
10-12-2009, 04:44 PM
Has anyone heard or know anything about the color accuracy on the Panasonic S1 ? Cnet reviewer said that it has a greenish tinge to the picture. I was wondering in case I did an exchange. The last set I had was the Toshiba 42HL167 and it had a horrible green push. I do not want that again!

daleb
10-12-2009, 08:15 PM
Has anyone heard or know anything about the color accuracy on the Panasonic S1 ? Cnet reviewer said that it has a greenish tinge to the picture. I was wondering in case I did an exchange. The last set I had was the Toshiba 42HL167 and it had a horrible green push. I do not want that again!

Maybe someone can tell you about specific models. I think it's fair to say the most recent Pan. models are better in that respect than previous models.