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Rear-Projection TVs CRT, DLP, LCD, LCOS ![]() |
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#1 |
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My plasma is High Def.
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6
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Just recently got one of these. Well, two of these. Looks like It's gonna be three. Lemme explain. Got the first one. LOVED it. Noticed a small grey spot about the size of a dime towards the bottom of the screen. The salesman from Ultimate Electronics came out, looked at it, and said "when do you want your new replacement delivered". Thought that was pretty cool as far as customer service goes. So then I get a new one. This one has a few tiny grey spots and a black streak about a half-inch long on the right side of the screen, pretty much centered on that half of the screen. No problems, they're gonna replace it. Again.
This is where it gets confusing. The picture on this set is decidedly worse than the picture on the first one. I get a lot of spottiness in red areas (looks like this: some parts of red images are simply pixellated I guess, and not as crystal sharp as everything else.). I also get a lot of issues watching DVDs. Take Alien Vs. Predator. This is a great, great looking DVD. Looked pristine on the first set. On this one though, there's a lot of image "nonclarity" (pardon the lack of tech words, I'm new to this stuff). When Sanaa Lathan is giving the "nobody goes out alone" speech in the hold of the ship at the beginning, her red parka has parts show up blocky and almost purple. Faces have issues too. Looking at Reggie Bush's picture on ESPN HD (you know, where it's on-screen next to the announcer), or his face when he was just interviewed, parts of his face show up orange. Reggie Bush is a black guy, not a black and orange guy (and no, this wasn't some USC paint job!). This happens a lot. Happens in some form or another on most HD (or DVD even) faces. Sometimes it's red, sometimes it's more orange, but either way this is irritating and messing with the settings does nothing. Change the settings and the discolored bits remain, they just look different. Pretty much the same effect as the aforementioned Sanaa Lathan parka thing. I get problems like this no matter what the input is. And I am pretty sure the brand-new cables didn't magically go bad in the span of three days (remember, I had none of these problems with the first TV). Also, the sky looks dorked up a lot. There's a lot of pixellation. No consistent shading or anything. Like this: watching Madagascar tonight, the blue sky would show up as dark blue, then a lighter blue in places, with pixellation in between. Same thing on AVP and anything else I've tried. It's like the thing is missing part of the signal or procesing something screwy. I checked all the connections, checked the settings on everything, and still the same problems. Halo 2 on XBox looks decidedly less crisp on this TV as it did on the first one too. So, anybody know what I'm talking about? I know the TV is getting replaced (AGAIN), but is there a technical term for what I'm seeing? Is there a way to, like, get it to go away by messing with settings? If it happens again on the next one I want to know how to fix it or if it's a problem with the TV (hardware or something...if so they'll just give me a fourth damn TV!). This is all damn confusing. The grey dot on the first TV was really not so bad, maybe I should see if I can just have that one back! |
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#2 |
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Selectavision Support
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 435
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Macroblocking........ I think you are just finding more things wrong that you never saw before. You are now becoming more an expert. Your eyes are looking for things that aren't correct. Human nature.
I would of kepted the first and had someone come pout and remove/clear the light path. Something got in the way. Common problem with many of these RPTVs'. PS, welcome to the forums.
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There is alwyas something on SelectaVision.
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#3 |
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DLP User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 57
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That's a shame, it sounds like the right tech might have been able to save that first set. I have two spots at the top of my wd62725 screen and the tech from the store I bought it at knew exactly what it was and will clean it out on the inside.
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#4 |
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High Definition is the definition of life.
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 85
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Maybe they brought you a set someone else returned. And maybe the set you returned is going to someone else. Sounds paranoid, but I know it happens.
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#5 |
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DLP User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 57
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Good point, never thought of that. It's possible although they went through a lot of trouble to put it back in the box and then unpack it at my house...but when you're talking that kinda money anything is possible. Regardless, the place I bought it doubles the factory warranty for free so I got 2 years to get it squared away.
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#6 | |
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My plasma is High Def.
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6
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Quote:
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#7 | |
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Selectavision Support
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 435
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Quote:
Can you post a pic??
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There is alwyas something on SelectaVision.
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#8 |
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My plasma is High Def.
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6
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Talked to some guys at Best Buy today. They actually became very open and helpful after they realized I wasn't buying a TV from them, I was a little suprised. Anyway, their opinion is that the macroblocking should not be an issue given the extreme levels I am getting all over the screen. They say it's likely due to a misaligned bunch of mirrors or something. But the general consensus is that the TV is definitely not working right. We looked at a Sony 1080p DLP and I'd point to the screen at certain scenes and point out the issues I was having: "see, my TV gets all blocky here, and here, and over here in stuff like this". Obviously the Sony wasn't doing it, nor were any of the other DLPs they had. Being that these display models are anything but factory-fresh at this point, they told me that my best bet is to get another replacement TV, or go with a new model altogether.
So here's another question for you smart guys out there (and you've really helped out so far, thanks a lot): I want to watch DVDs in superb quality, play XBox (and the 360 I just got) in 720p or higher, and enjoy HD football games. If I do decide to get a different TV, what is my best choice? The one I have now has a 52-inch screen, I'd like to keep it around that size (no smaller than 42 inches), and below $3300 so I can do a straight trade without having to find a lot more cash. I will post a photo of the problems the screen is giving me on this one next week-I have a digital camera, but I'm on vacation right now for Thanksgiving. |
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#9 |
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Selectavision Support
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 435
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JVC
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There is alwyas something on SelectaVision.
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#10 |
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My plasma is High Def.
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6
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In the continuing saga of my damn TV, number three comes this afternoon in a few hours. Hope this one is working right!
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#11 |
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My plasma is High Def.
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6
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Third TV got delivered today, and I am very pleased to say that it will be the last one. The picture on this one is pretty much perfect. Every single problem I had with the first two? Completely and utterly nonexistant! Watched Alien vs. Predator last night, and threw it back in the DVD player to see if it looked better. DAMN did it look better. That might just have to be the single best looking DVD I have seen yet. Anyway, I am now able to say that this TV is officially awesome. If you want a 1080p TV, 52 inches, and want to pay less than $3500, find one of these.
Just make sure the store has a lemon policy. Just in case.
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#12 |
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Selectavision Support
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 435
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Take a look here;
Letter to Mits' President got results
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There is alwyas something on SelectaVision.
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#13 |
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My plasma is High Def.
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6
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Whoa. That's certainly interesting stuff there. I have to admit that I haven't noticed the issue with the cutting off of parts of the picture on non-HD channels. I can validate your complaint about the remote control, but in a different sense. I use the Cox remote from the cable box, and the volume control does take a few pushes to get going. If I pick up the TVs remote though, it gives me no problems at all.
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#14 | |
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Selectavision Support
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 435
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Quote:
Amazing fgew others have noticed this. I can't see spending hundreds of dollars on TWO internal HD tuners just to hook the set up to a STB. SD is still 90% of the material out there.The really bad thing was I did notice something, but thought it was something with my B&K HD signal generator that I took with me to evalulate some of these sets.
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There is alwyas something on SelectaVision.
Last edited by videobruce; 12-03-2005 at 09:01 AM. |
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#15 |
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What is HD?
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1
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We have a WD-62725 has worked fine, when they delivered the set 3 years ago, We noticed a spot on the screen (fuzzy grey) called the store and they sent a guy out, and he told my wife and I that the $1400.00 part that has the million mirrors in it is defective, the new part came in about 4 weeks later, He installed it and same thing...turned out to be a peice of plastic shaving on the reflector mirror on the bottom of the unit, must have happened during assembly while drilling mounting holes for the cabinetry. The tech."Brushed it off with a paper towel" picture is pefect.....now after 3= years and out of warranty, the lamp goes out (or so I thought) ordered a new lamp, installed only to find out may have a ballast problem. Have talked to tech.'s and they advise "on a new set, or when replacing a lamp we should at initial start up to do a ""BURN IN PROCESS"" , turn the set on and leave it on for 20 hours to allow the lamp to properly burn in". I cant believe our lamp had lasted as long as it did, also can't believe the salesmen selling these units never advise on the lamp burn in procedure, let alone, how any repairs seem to be about 1/3-1/2 the origional price of the set......aghh.. the cost of R & D paid once again by the consumer....why does our $300 bedroom set last 18 years wothout any issues, but a $3200 set goes out in 3 years. Any advise on where to get a ballast board for a mitsubishi WD-62725 heard cost is around $400+ for the board after paying $165 for a new 100-150 watt mercury vapor lamp, thought I would try to replace the ballast next. By the way a 1000 watt mercury vapor ballast kit WITH a lamp... for a street pole light is about $225) and will last 6X LONGER !!!!!
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