Relocating My Complete 7.1 System-Being FORCED

[rzj90059]

So I am being forced to switch rooms. I was barely given the notice today (7/29). It is currently 9:20 pm and this room need to be completely empty in 36 hours. So my current set up includes a 40" Samsung, 7.1 Onkyo, HR23-700 DTV, and a PS3.


The good thing is I am able to start a new instal and do and in-wall installation as I am putting up a fresh wall.I went ahead and purchased a wall mount and some wall plates, along with 100 ft of speaker wire. Example of the wall plates I bought.


Unfortunately, after i placed the order I realized something. Will I need these behind the wall plate?


Another dilemma of mine is my DirectTV service. I barely have enough wire going from the satellite to the receiver. Can someone point me to where I can buy a wall plate for a double-coxial wire. by that I mean there are two coxial cables coming from the satellite to my receiver. Thanks alot in advance

[rzj90059]

and another thing. How high should i mount the tv and what can i do about the powers tv. I know there are recessed wall plates for that but I am trying to stay away from touching my homes electricity architecture, any ideas? (I am trying to hide the power cable as well)

[Stew4HD]

You should use outlet box (similar to the one you showed). Think over what all you want to run in the walls. If you want to mount the TV to the wall, you might want to consider running the HDMI signal and power to an outlet box behind the TV.

[gclg2000]

If its any help, trying using these:

They are a little bit cheaper than what you have pictured above, "technically" designed for "low voltage" applications like running speaker wire, telephone, coax, RJ-45... They are more "free" to fish the wire and don't pinch you're "sensitive" audio/video wires like the blue junction boxes do. They have a big opening in the top, rear and bottom for easily stringing your cable through. They make these in the larger double gang size as well.

They sell the exact same product at Lowes, but I couldn't find it for you on lowes.com






They also make this in a "old construction" variety as well... Where you can just cut a square hole into the sheet rock and mount directly to the hole like an in wall speaker.



As far as using the speaker wire connector faceplate you have shown I would just run the wires straight out of the wall behind your receiver and just run them directly into your receiver or at most just crimp or solder some banana plugs to be plugged into your receiver.

I also did this one time on an install I did. Just run the speaker wire out of a junction box for each location.... Front R / L, Rear R / L...the cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to desierable shape (~ 1/2" larger than the perimeter of the junction box). Route the edges to match the crown molding (if applicable) paint it white. Drill two holes that line up with the junction box's screw holes. Drill one holes for the speaker wire and then attach the actual pivoting speaker mount to the "junction box cover"

[rzj90059]

Thanks alot for the info. Unfortunately I went ahead and bought the blue gang boxes, 37 cents each but the only thing ima feed through each box is one speaker wire so fitment of wires isnt an issue.

[Stew4HD]

Originally Posted by rzj90059

Thanks alot for the info. Unfortunately I went ahead and bought the blue gang boxes, 37 cents each but the only thing ima feed through each box is one speaker wire so fitment of wires isnt an issue.

When I run HDMI/speaker and other signals to one spot I use those "Old Work" electrical boxes for finishes walls but use my multi-tool to cut the bottom out (ends up lookiing like the 2 picture gclg showed).

For on-wall speaker mounting, I try to find a stud to mount to run the speaker wire to a hole next to the stud. I worry about mounting to sheetrock alone, even with butterfly bolts.