Help - I fried something in my PC

jkkyler · 01-17-2013, 07:21 AM

Bear with me here - there is a lot of chaff to get through but I need some insight pls.
So last night I went to play some Far Cry 3. Fired everything up and sat down and had a terrible mishap.

On my Pc I have 2 front panel usb ports, 1 has the 'dongle' plugged in that is the receiver for a wireless contoller (360). The other is used for whatever - often for plugging in the 'wired' 360 controller recharger.
Recently my wired 360 'recharger' has been a little touchy (like maybe from the cord being wound so many times it frayed or got a short) and I have been meaning to replace it but hadn't got around to it. Anyhow - last night I fired everything up and when I went to play I decided to plug in the charger while I was playing since I hadn't charged my controller in ~ a week ). I connected it to my controller and the second I touched it to my front USB port I saw a small spark (exactly like a static electricity spark) and my rig either froze or shut off (don't remember exactly but I believe it resarted from post as if I had hit the 'power reset' button. Anyhow Things restarted and appeared to be ok so at this point I was thinking inadsvertent static electricvity so I reconnected everything, touched a metal cabinet nearby to make sure any charge/spark was discharged and when I plugged in the wired recharger everything froze and my my controller started flashing. I decided to no longer use that recharger I consider it defective at this point. So I rebooted my pc (no wired recharger) and logged in but my controller was flashing like it is no longer synched so I went to synch it but the second I presss the synch button on the dongle my pc froze/freezes and must be rebooted. Upon rebooting the same thing happened so I began to suspect I fried my usb port.
If I plug the dongle in nothing happens but the moment that I press the synch button my entire pc freezes (the little 'busy' circle next to the cursor pops up and my pc is then nonresponsive - even ctr/alt/del does nothing I tried the other front usb port (where the wired recharger has been - same thing ). I figured at this point I had fried my usb header. I recalled that I though I had another USB header on my MB (grand total of 3) - on the back of my pc my other USB port has my wirless netwpork dongle and my wireless kb/m receiver. So I opened my pc and decided to connect my front usb inputs to the unused header. - This is where I frustrated the hell out of my self as I traced the usb line from the front back to my motherboard and went to unplug it I accidently grabbed the wire cluster right next to it which appears indistinguishable but what I actually did was detach the power on, reset switch, hdd activity, and power on led indicator all the little individual clips that have to be on the specific 'jumpers'. Those of you that have built a pc know what I am talking about. So I dug out my mb guide and a flashlight and got those all reconnected - what a pia (actually the power on led indicator which is a blue bezel around my power button isn't lighting but I think I prefer that ). Located the proper usb wires located right next to it and moved that connection to my other USB header.
Same exact thing is happening if I boot up everything seems fine but my controller isn't synched - the moment I press the synch button my rig locks up - whether the controller wireless dongle is plugged in when I boot up or whether it I plug it in after windows loads same thing - no synch and the moment I press the synch button my pc freezes so I am assuming that my wireless synch dongle was somehow damaged and needs replaced. Either that or both usb headers on that part of the board are fried (the other usb header for the back of my case is in another ocation on the mb right net to where the outlets/usb receptacle on the back is while the other two are locate on the other side of the mb).
This is my plan of action unless you guys have a better idea.

1) try plugging in another usb device into the front ports and see if it works - I was thinking maybe my kb/m rwireless receiver if not then something else.
If that works then I am assuming that my controller dongle is shot and I need a new one, if it doesn't then I am assuming those usb ports are shot and I need to buy a usb hub plug it into the back where my keyboard one is plugged in since I know it works.

Any other suggestions or recommendations - Ideally this would be a good opportunity to replace my mb but when I do I am going to need to get not only that but since I have an AM2+ mb I really would need to replace not only that but my memory as well - ddr2 to ddr3 nd also my cpu so then I am looking at mb,cpu,memory which I am not really looking to spend obn at this point .

Thanks for any suiggestions - a worried JK

Last pm I ended up playing kb/m games instead.

**rbinck** · 01-17-2013, 07:31 AM

This is one of those after the fact posts, but I have been using powered USB hubs to connect anything that uses power from a usb port. I have a video camera that uses the USB power to charge batteries and there is one port that I found would not supply enough power and made the port act like it was shorted and it would cause the PC to shutdown like you described. Once you figure it out, I'd recommend using a powered hub for your devices that use USB power for charging.

TwoPlusTwo · 01-17-2013, 07:32 AM

That really sucks, jk.

I feel ya, buddy. I had a motherboard go out once, for no apparent reason. It was around the time Borderlands 2 came out. I'd bought a dedicated PhysX card for the game, and it wasn't working. Turned out the extra GPU slot was bad.

Hopefully you can get and inexpensive fix...

railven · 01-17-2013, 07:38 AM

Chances are the front USB adapter is ruined. If so, don't use another USB header on the motherboard or you might short out the actual motherboard.

My girlfriend's old Coolermaster Scout had a weird issue. She has the tendency to trip on her headphones which are plugged into the front adapter. Long story short, it got to the point where it would fry her headphones within a week. $10, $20, $40 headsets - didn't matter. I only realized it after I just decided to use the back ports and she's been using the same headset for almost a year now.

That and once there is a short any where, it is a risk to the internals. I'd have tried one of the read USB ports to test the dongle. If the front USB adapter is damaged, I'd disconnect it. I had to do that on a different Cooler Master centurion case. PC would just hang if you connected a USB anything to it.

jkkyler · 01-17-2013, 08:30 AM

Rail- so you think I should check the controller receiver dongle on one of the back USB ports and if it works then my front adapter is fried and I shouldn't use them? Just get a usb hub and connect it to the back? I should then disconnect the front USB outlets from the MB to be safe.

If it doesn't work then I can assume the wireless dongle is bad and replace it(could I then re-check the front USB with the new dongle?)

Either way I am going to get a new wired recharger.

jkkyler · 01-17-2013, 09:00 AM

If worse comers to worse and I have to replace my mb cpu how does this look

AMD Quad-Core A10-5800K 3.8GHz Radeon HD 7660D APU and Kingston HyperX Red 8GB Memory Module Bundle
for $165 (mobo+cpu+ram combo + integrated gpu which I don't need)

the other option would be

MSI Z6 Intel Z68 Motherboard and EVGA GeForce GTX 650 1GB GDDR5 Video Card and Corsair CMX4GX3M1A1333C9 XMS3 4GB DDR3 RAM Bundle
for $193

Since I have a EVGA GTX580 I am assuming I could sell the GTX650 (unless you guys think that is somehow better) and if so how much is a gtx 650 worth? (I have seen it listed for $110)

railven · 01-17-2013, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkkyler

Rail- so you think I should check the controller receiver dongle on one of the back USB ports and if it works then my front adapter is fried and I shouldn't use them? Just get a usb hub and connect it to the back? I should then disconnect the front USB outlets from the MB to be safe.

If it doesn't work then I can assume the wireless dongle is bad and replace it(could I then re-check the front USB with the new dongle?)

Either way I am going to get a new wired recharger.

It is very possible that the front USB adapter is damaged. I've seen it happen before (plenty of times actually.) Once that gets damaged, it can create a lot of instability issues. You said the dongle was fine (it was the recharged that was fraying, right?) if so - I would test the dongle on the back USB ports and see if it works. If it does, you can assume the front USB adapter is hosed. You can either buy a USB hub for the back or a front 3.5" mounting USB tray (probably about the same price.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkkyler

If worse comers to worse and I have to replace my mb cpu how does this look

AMD Quad-Core A10-5800K 3.8GHz Radeon HD 7660D APU and Kingston HyperX Red 8GB Memory Module Bundle
for $165 (mobo+cpu+ram combo + integrated gpu which I don't need)

I'd advice against that since you have a decent GPU. The AMD APU's are mostly filler parts. The CPU performance is very limited and if you don't plan on using the GPU you are gimping the CPU portion because of it.

I'd only buy an AMD APU if you plan on using the GPU portion (they actually work great for an entry level gaming rig.)

If you want to stay AMD, look at the new FX 8320. I'm hearing great things about it and they are relatively cheap. I think Microcenter is running their "buy chip, get $50 off select board" promo if you have one near by.

jkkyler · 01-17-2013, 09:22 AM

Railven - initially the wireless dongle was fine but ever since the incident - whenever I ress the synch button my pc freezes (only in the front usb ports) This has happened with the fron usb connected to either USB header.

I am going to try and connect the wireless dongle to the back and see - hopefully it is just the usb ports. I was bemoaning the fact that I really liked front usb ports (for plugging in thumb drives and transferring music ) and putting a front port in an open panel hadn't occured to me. If I get my dongle to work I think that is what Iw ill do.

PS what about that intel combo I listed.- Never mind- no cpu

railven · 01-17-2013, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkkyler

Railven - initially the wireless dongle was fine but ever since the incident - whenever I ress the synch button my pc freezes (only in the front usb ports) This has happened with the fron usb connected to either USB header.

I am going to try and connect the wireless dongle to the back and see - hopefully it is just the usb ports. I was bemoaning the fact that I really liked front usb ports (for plugging in thumb drives and transferring music ) and putting a front port in an open panel hadn't occured to me. If I get my dongle to work I think that is what Iw ill do.

That is what is making me think it is the actual USB adapter. If it works in the back, then we can really look at the USB adapter. Once you see a spark - something burned. For all we know it could have popped a cap which regulated power thus when you press the synch button it overloads the header.

I've used a few front USB panel plates in my time, ugly, but useful. Drop an extra dollar or two and you can buy one with card readers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkkyler

PS what about that intel combo I listed.- Never mind- no cpu

I take it you're looking at Newegg bundle options? That bundle for what you get isn't too shabby, but...I'd guess bundled you're saving like $20-30 tops. The Z68 is a generation old now so it shouldn't be selling new for >$90 I'd guess since you can buy Z77 for that price point.

Once thing that bundle doesn't include is a CPU, so you got to factor that in too. If you can't sell the GTX 650 you're stuck. If you are using Newegg, look at the chip you'd like and check their bundle options.

jkkyler · 01-17-2013, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Drop an extra dollar or two and you can buy one with card readers.

yea I saw a few for around $12 on sale at tigerdirect. Currently I have been using the card reader that came with my DSLR (usb dongle) but it would be nice to have one in the front of my pc- combined with USB ports seems like a no-brainer - once I get this mess figured out..

jkkyler · 01-17-2013, 04:18 PM

Railven - once again you rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got home and realized that I still had a wireless usb wifi N stick in one of the rear atx slots from before I made this one my gaming pc (hardwired to my router) and it used to be in a bedroom. Pulled that out and plugged in the wireless controller dongle and viola - I am back in business so I pulled the front usb wires off the mobo header so they can't short anything out and now all I have to do is buy a controller charger and I think I am going to add a universal card reader and usb to the front panel. BTW do USB 3.0 slots fit usb 2.0 plugs or are they a diff form factor? (I know my mobo doesn't support usb 3.0, only 2.0 but I am just curious)

For a hot moment I thought I may have f'ed something else up as I had no sound but then I remembered I have to turn my display on before my pc or the audio handshake doesn't work so after I re-logged on with my display on all was good to go.

awol · 01-17-2013, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkkyler

For a hot moment I thought I may have f'ed something else up as I had no sound but then I remembered I have to turn my display on before my pc or the audio handshake doesn't work so after I re-logged on with my display on all was good to go.

Ok, 5... Oh. Wait..

But seriously, I'm curious, can you actually use the charge 'n play cable with a PC to charge a wireless controller?

railven · 01-17-2013, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkkyler

Railven - once again you rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got home and realized that I still had a wireless usb wifi N stick in one of the rear atx slots from before I made this one my gaming pc (hardwired to my router) and it used to be in a bedroom. Pulled that out and plugged in the wireless controller dongle and viola - I am back in business so I pulled the front usb wires off the mobo header so they can't short anything out and now all I have to do is buy a controller charger and I think I am going to add a universal card reader and usb to the front panel. BTW do USB 3.0 slots fit usb 2.0 plugs or are they a diff form factor? (I know my mobo doesn't support usb 3.0, only 2.0 but I am just curious)

For a hot moment I thought I may have f'ed something else up as I had no sound but then I remembered I have to turn my display on before my pc or the audio handshake doesn't work so after I re-logged on with my display on all was good to go.

Woots, glad we can get that resolved. I've come across so many damaged front USB connectors it isn't even funny. I've yet to ruin one of my own (knock on wood) but it does happen.

As for the USB 2.0 vs 3.0, no they aren't the same form factor, for starters USB 2.0 per lane is 5 pints (Data-/+, volts-/+, ground) and USB 3.0 I think is 10 per lane. A good USB 3.0 adapater should bring a USB 2.0 adapter since 3.0 works on 2.0/1.0 buses, but without it the actual plug won't fit.

My case brought the adapter since my motherboard doesn't have USB 3.0 but the case did, looks something like this:

Quote:

Originally Posted by awol

Ok, 5... Oh. Wait..

But seriously, I'm curious, can you actually use the charge 'n play cable with a PC to charge a wireless controller?

EDIT: misunderstood the question, yes you should be able to if the adapter can sustain the volts. chances are his front adapter couldn't and after a while it failed.

I often charge my phone/controllers/head set on my PC but I use a rear USB port and never more than once device at a time.

jkkyler · 01-17-2013, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awol View Post
Ok, 5... Oh. Wait..

But seriously, I'm curious, can you actually use the charge 'n play cable with a PC to charge a wireless controller?

I've been doing it for like a year and a half, I'll just scoot my chair up a little bit and charge it up while I'm playing or just plug it in after I'm done and let it sit on the shelf till charged

jkkyler · 01-17-2013, 04:57 PM

I think when I get my new charge cable I am going to use either the xbox or one of those plug in the wall outlet and it has a usb slot adapters so I don't fry anything else.

01-17-2013, 07:21 AM	#1
jkkyler I bleed for HD Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 7,394	Help - I fried something in my PC Bear with me here - there is a lot of chaff to get through but I need some insight pls. So last night I went to play some Far Cry 3. Fired everything up and sat down and had a terrible mishap. On my Pc I have 2 front panel usb ports, 1 has the 'dongle' plugged in that is the receiver for a wireless contoller (360). The other is used for whatever - often for plugging in the 'wired' 360 controller recharger. Recently my wired 360 'recharger' has been a little touchy (like maybe from the cord being wound so many times it frayed or got a short) and I have been meaning to replace it but hadn't got around to it. Anyhow - last night I fired everything up and when I went to play I decided to plug in the charger while I was playing since I hadn't charged my controller in ~ a week ). I connected it to my controller and the second I touched it to my front USB port I saw a small spark (exactly like a static electricity spark) and my rig either froze or shut off (don't remember exactly but I believe it resarted from post as if I had hit the 'power reset' button. Anyhow Things restarted and appeared to be ok so at this point I was thinking inadsvertent static electricvity so I reconnected everything, touched a metal cabinet nearby to make sure any charge/spark was discharged and when I plugged in the wired recharger everything froze and my my controller started flashing. I decided to no longer use that recharger I consider it defective at this point. So I rebooted my pc (no wired recharger) and logged in but my controller was flashing like it is no longer synched so I went to synch it but the second I presss the synch button on the dongle my pc froze/freezes and must be rebooted. Upon rebooting the same thing happened so I began to suspect I fried my usb port. If I plug the dongle in nothing happens but the moment that I press the synch button my entire pc freezes (the little 'busy' circle next to the cursor pops up and my pc is then nonresponsive - even ctr/alt/del does nothing I tried the other front usb port (where the wired recharger has been - same thing ). I figured at this point I had fried my usb header. I recalled that I though I had another USB header on my MB (grand total of 3) - on the back of my pc my other USB port has my wirless netwpork dongle and my wireless kb/m receiver. So I opened my pc and decided to connect my front usb inputs to the unused header. - This is where I frustrated the hell out of my self as I traced the usb line from the front back to my motherboard and went to unplug it I accidently grabbed the wire cluster right next to it which appears indistinguishable but what I actually did was detach the power on, reset switch, hdd activity, and power on led indicator all the little individual clips that have to be on the specific 'jumpers'. Those of you that have built a pc know what I am talking about. So I dug out my mb guide and a flashlight and got those all reconnected - what a pia (actually the power on led indicator which is a blue bezel around my power button isn't lighting but I think I prefer that ). Located the proper usb wires located right next to it and moved that connection to my other USB header. Same exact thing is happening if I boot up everything seems fine but my controller isn't synched - the moment I press the synch button my rig locks up - whether the controller wireless dongle is plugged in when I boot up or whether it I plug it in after windows loads same thing - no synch and the moment I press the synch button my pc freezes so I am assuming that my wireless synch dongle was somehow damaged and needs replaced. Either that or both usb headers on that part of the board are fried (the other usb header for the back of my case is in another ocation on the mb right net to where the outlets/usb receptacle on the back is while the other two are locate on the other side of the mb). This is my plan of action unless you guys have a better idea. 1) try plugging in another usb device into the front ports and see if it works - I was thinking maybe my kb/m rwireless receiver if not then something else. If that works then I am assuming that my controller dongle is shot and I need a new one, if it doesn't then I am assuming those usb ports are shot and I need to buy a usb hub plug it into the back where my keyboard one is plugged in since I know it works. Any other suggestions or recommendations - Ideally this would be a good opportunity to replace my mb but when I do I am going to need to get not only that but since I have an AM2+ mb I really would need to replace not only that but my memory as well - ddr2 to ddr3 nd also my cpu so then I am looking at mb,cpu,memory which I am not really looking to spend obn at this point . Thanks for any suiggestions - a worried JK Last pm I ended up playing kb/m games instead. __________________ HT- Panasonic TH-50PZ800U 1080p plasma, Panasonic PT-AX200u LCD projector, Elite Vmax Electric 100' screen, Onkyo TX-NR905 AVR, Paradigm Titan Monitor v5 fronts, Paradigm CC-190 v6 center, Paradigm Atom Monitors v5 surrounds(x4), HSU research VTF-2 sub, xbox360+hd-dvd player ,Sony BDP-S550 blu-ray, Dtv H21 HD-DVR Bedroom: Insignia NS-lcd26, Samsung BDP-1400 blu-ray Den - Vizio 20" 1080p LCD + Samsung BD-p1600 Don't believe everything you read on the internet - Albert Einstein Last edited by jkkyler; 01-17-2013 at 07:51 AM.*

01-17-2013, 07:31 AM	#2
rbinck Administrator Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Katy, Texas Posts: 15,603	This is one of those after the fact posts, but I have been using powered USB hubs to connect anything that uses power from a usb port. I have a video camera that uses the USB power to charge batteries and there is one port that I found would not supply enough power and made the port act like it was shorted and it would cause the PC to shutdown like you described. Once you figure it out, I'd recommend using a powered hub for your devices that use USB power for charging. __________________ www.highdefinitionblog.com www.BlogOfHawaii.com

01-17-2013, 07:32 AM	#3
TwoPlusTwo 2x GTX Titan SLI Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Academia Posts: 6,944	That really sucks, jk. I feel ya, buddy. I had a motherboard go out once, for no apparent reason. It was around the time Borderlands 2 came out. I'd bought a dedicated PhysX card for the game, and it wasn't working. Turned out the extra GPU slot was bad. Hopefully you can get and inexpensive fix... __________________ Pioneer Kuro Elite PRO-101FD, HP ZR30w 30" 1600p Monitor, 7.1 Surround Sound Equipment, Gaming PC, Playstation 3. Harmony One Remote. Currently Playing: Metro Last Light (PC) , Far Cry 3 Blood Dragon (PC) Steam ID: NonTensorial

01-17-2013, 08:30 AM	#5
jkkyler I bleed for HD Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 7,394	Rail- so you think I should check the controller receiver dongle on one of the back USB ports and if it works then my front adapter is fried and I shouldn't use them? Just get a usb hub and connect it to the back? I should then disconnect the front USB outlets from the MB to be safe. If it doesn't work then I can assume the wireless dongle is bad and replace it(could I then re-check the front USB with the new dongle?) Either way I am going to get a new wired recharger. __________________ HT- Panasonic TH-50PZ800U 1080p plasma, Panasonic PT-AX200u LCD projector, Elite Vmax Electric 100' screen, Onkyo TX-NR905 AVR, Paradigm Titan Monitor v5 fronts, Paradigm CC-190 v6 center, Paradigm Atom Monitors v5 surrounds(x4), HSU research VTF-2 sub, xbox360+hd-dvd player ,Sony BDP-S550 blu-ray, D*tv H21 HD-DVR Bedroom: Insignia NS-lcd26, Samsung BDP-1400 blu-ray Den - Vizio 20" 1080p LCD + Samsung BD-p1600 Don't believe everything you read on the internet - Albert Einstein

01-17-2013, 09:00 AM	#6
jkkyler I bleed for HD Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 7,394	If worse comers to worse and I have to replace my mb cpu how does this look AMD Quad-Core A10-5800K 3.8GHz Radeon HD 7660D APU and Kingston HyperX Red 8GB Memory Module Bundle for $165 (mobo+cpu+ram combo + integrated gpu which I don't need) the other option would be MSI Z6 Intel Z68 Motherboard and EVGA GeForce GTX 650 1GB GDDR5 Video Card and Corsair CMX4GX3M1A1333C9 XMS3 4GB DDR3 RAM Bundle for $193 Since I have a EVGA GTX580 I am assuming I could sell the GTX650 (unless you guys think that is somehow better) and if so how much is a gtx 650 worth? (I have seen it listed for $110) __________________ HT- Panasonic TH-50PZ800U 1080p plasma, Panasonic PT-AX200u LCD projector, Elite Vmax Electric 100' screen, Onkyo TX-NR905 AVR, Paradigm Titan Monitor v5 fronts, Paradigm CC-190 v6 center, Paradigm Atom Monitors v5 surrounds(x4), HSU research VTF-2 sub, xbox360+hd-dvd player ,Sony BDP-S550 blu-ray, Dtv H21 HD-DVR Bedroom: Insignia NS-lcd26, Samsung BDP-1400 blu-ray Den - Vizio 20" 1080p LCD + Samsung BD-p1600 Don't believe everything you read on the internet - Albert Einstein Last edited by jkkyler; 01-17-2013 at 09:03 AM.*

01-17-2013, 07:38 AM	#4
railven PLS C SIG: Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 11,656	Chances are the front USB adapter is ruined. If so, don't use another USB header on the motherboard or you might short out the actual motherboard. My girlfriend's old Coolermaster Scout had a weird issue. She has the tendency to trip on her headphones which are plugged into the front adapter. Long story short, it got to the point where it would fry her headphones within a week. $10, $20, $40 headsets - didn't matter. I only realized it after I just decided to use the back ports and she's been using the same headset for almost a year now. That and once there is a short any where, it is a risk to the internals. I'd have tried one of the read USB ports to test the dongle. If the front USB adapter is damaged, I'd disconnect it. I had to do that on a different Cooler Master centurion case. PC would just hang if you connected a USB anything to it.

01-17-2013, 09:22 AM	#8
jkkyler I bleed for HD Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 7,394	Railven - initially the wireless dongle was fine but ever since the incident - whenever I ress the synch button my pc freezes (only in the front usb ports) This has happened with the fron usb connected to either USB header. I am going to try and connect the wireless dongle to the back and see - hopefully it is just the usb ports. I was bemoaning the fact that I really liked front usb ports (for plugging in thumb drives and transferring music ) and putting a front port in an open panel hadn't occured to me. If I get my dongle to work I think that is what Iw ill do. PS what about that intel combo I listed.- Never mind- no cpu __________________ HT- Panasonic TH-50PZ800U 1080p plasma, Panasonic PT-AX200u LCD projector, Elite Vmax Electric 100' screen, Onkyo TX-NR905 AVR, Paradigm Titan Monitor v5 fronts, Paradigm CC-190 v6 center, Paradigm Atom Monitors v5 surrounds(x4), HSU research VTF-2 sub, xbox360+hd-dvd player ,Sony BDP-S550 blu-ray, Dtv H21 HD-DVR Bedroom: Insignia NS-lcd26, Samsung BDP-1400 blu-ray Den - Vizio 20" 1080p LCD + Samsung BD-p1600 Don't believe everything you read on the internet - Albert Einstein Last edited by jkkyler; 01-17-2013 at 09:26 AM.*

01-17-2013, 04:18 PM	#11
jkkyler I bleed for HD Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 7,394	Railven - once again you rock!!!!!!!!!!!!! Got home and realized that I still had a wireless usb wifi N stick in one of the rear atx slots from before I made this one my gaming pc (hardwired to my router) and it used to be in a bedroom. Pulled that out and plugged in the wireless controller dongle and viola - I am back in business so I pulled the front usb wires off the mobo header so they can't short anything out and now all I have to do is buy a controller charger and I think I am going to add a universal card reader and usb to the front panel. BTW do USB 3.0 slots fit usb 2.0 plugs or are they a diff form factor? (I know my mobo doesn't support usb 3.0, only 2.0 but I am just curious) For a hot moment I thought I may have f'ed something else up as I had no sound but then I remembered I have to turn my display on before my pc or the audio handshake doesn't work so after I re-logged on with my display on all was good to go. __________________ HT- Panasonic TH-50PZ800U 1080p plasma, Panasonic PT-AX200u LCD projector, Elite Vmax Electric 100' screen, Onkyo TX-NR905 AVR, Paradigm Titan Monitor v5 fronts, Paradigm CC-190 v6 center, Paradigm Atom Monitors v5 surrounds(x4), HSU research VTF-2 sub, xbox360+hd-dvd player ,Sony BDP-S550 blu-ray, Dtv H21 HD-DVR Bedroom: Insignia NS-lcd26, Samsung BDP-1400 blu-ray Den - Vizio 20" 1080p LCD + Samsung BD-p1600 Don't believe everything you read on the internet - Albert Einstein Last edited by jkkyler; 01-17-2013 at 04:22 PM.*

01-17-2013, 04:57 PM	#15
jkkyler I bleed for HD Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 7,394	I think when I get my new charge cable I am going to use either the xbox or one of those plug in the wall outlet and it has a usb slot adapters so I don't fry anything else. __________________ HT- Panasonic TH-50PZ800U 1080p plasma, Panasonic PT-AX200u LCD projector, Elite Vmax Electric 100' screen, Onkyo TX-NR905 AVR, Paradigm Titan Monitor v5 fronts, Paradigm CC-190 v6 center, Paradigm Atom Monitors v5 surrounds(x4), HSU research VTF-2 sub, xbox360+hd-dvd player ,Sony BDP-S550 blu-ray, D*tv H21 HD-DVR Bedroom: Insignia NS-lcd26, Samsung BDP-1400 blu-ray Den - Vizio 20" 1080p LCD + Samsung BD-p1600 Don't believe everything you read on the internet - Albert Einstein

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