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Sharp Aquos LC-37D5U wont turn on

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Old 09-18-2010, 01:02 AM   #1
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Default Sharp Aquos LC-37D5U wont turn on

I have a Sharp Aquos LC-37D5U and it won't turn on. I just moved and set the tv back up and it worked fine for the first 24 hours. Then the following day while watching TV it just shut off and will not turn back on. The OPC/DL light on the front panel just keeps blinking.

I have tried the following:

Unplugging it, wait 30min and then plugging it back in
Disconnecting all cables other than power and then unplugging it and plugging back in
Tried powering on with the remote as well as with the console power button

Any ideas on how to fix this issue?

I have found many links relating to the power and opc lights flashing together but have been unable to find any related links that offer a solution to fixing just the OPC/DL light blinking.

I have had the TV for about 3 years.
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Old 12-17-2010, 10:08 PM   #2
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I'm not sure if you're still having this issue, since your post is 3 mos. old, but I have the exact same blinking OPC D/L issue on the 37D5U tv; the power light never comes on. I found a sequence to get into the service menu (no onscreen visual, though) by holding down the Input button and Volume-Down button simultaneously while plugging in the tv. When I did this and connected my cable line, I got sound.

I'm working with an electronics tech friend of mine to try to figure out the problem; off-hand, it appears to be a problem in the power supply. If I'm able to figure it out, I'll report back with the failed component info. If you've already figured it out, please report your findings.

Thanks.

Last edited by byalegend; 12-17-2010 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 12-18-2010, 03:37 AM   #3
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Check the capacitors (those cylinder shaped things sticking up) on the power board (and other boards) to see if any of the capacitors do not have a completely flat top on them. If they are bulging and curved at the top that means the capacitor is shot and the likely cause.
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PFC5 View Post
Check the capacitors (those cylinder shaped things sticking up) on the power board (and other boards) to see if any of the capacitors do not have a completely flat top on them. If they are bulging and curved at the top that means the capacitor is shot and the likely cause.
There are no bulging capacitors. The capacitors I've checked don't have a raised ESR, either. My guess is that the secondary voltage output is missing for one of the power supply loads (maybe the inverter board voltage), an inverter board is bad, or the t-con board is bad. If possible, I'd like to correct the issue at the component level as opposed to replacing any boards, since this is really more of a "research project" for me than anything.

Last edited by byalegend; 12-18-2010 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 12-29-2010, 10:31 PM   #5
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It appears that I've found and corrected the issue with this tv. I'm going to let it run for a couple days, but it's currently working great.

***Follow the instructions below to fix the same issue in your LC-37D5U tv***

Do this test first to confirm the failure:
(1) Connect the cable line to the tv.
(2) With the tv unplugged, hold down the Input and Volume-Down buttons simultaneously, then plug in the tv.

Expected result:
(a) You should hear the tv come on in the service mode; the OPC/DL and power lights on the front of the tv should turn green and blue, respectively.
(b) The broadcast sound should come through the speakers, but you will probably still have no picture or back light.

If your test yields the expected results, proceed to the fix.


Fix
===

Parts Needed
------------
(1) Part type: Fuse
Location on circuit board: F705
Official Part No: QFS-A1154SNEZ
Replacement Part No: BK/PCB-1-R (Mfg: Cooper Bussmann - about $2) or the original QFS-A1154SNEZ (Distributor: Sears Parts Direct - about $14)

(2) Part type: Mosfet (4 of them)
Location on circuit board: Q723, Q721, Q719, Q717
Official Part No: k3469
Replacement Part No: FQPF13N50C or FQPF13N50CF (Mfg: Fairchild Semiconductor - about $2 each)

Fuse F705 is part of the circuit on the power supply that powers the inverter circuit, and the inverter switches on the back light for the tv. The mosfet at location Q723 was suspect when I tested it, so I went ahead and replaced it and the other three mosfets "chained" to it as preventative maintenance. Parts can be bought from digikey.com - digikey is usually a same-day shipper with the best prices, so I use them. USPS Priority shipping is the best bang for your buck.

Tools Needed
------------
Philips screwdriver
Soldering iron
Desoldering braid or some other solder remover
Light bulb socket that has two wires running from it and a clear 100-watt light bulb - Home Depot sells the sockets. Alternatively, you can use a 2K ohm/10W resistor
Multimeter - not necessary, but helpful

Procedure
---------
(1) **Important: Make sure the tv is unplugged**

(2) Remove the back cover and stand - there are a bunch of screws holding the back cover on. You can either mark the screw locations and bag the screws or do what I did: Unscrew the screws, leaving them in their holes, then slowly lift the back cover off and carefully set it down with the screws intact.

(3) Set the tv on a flat surface with LCD panel facedown and remove the AC power cable.

(4) The board you want to work on is the power supply board (see pic below), which is the board where the AC power cable connects. Carefully detach the connectors that connect to the other boards in the tv from the power supply, then remove the screws that hold the power supply to the back of the tv and lift it off the tv by holding it by its edges.

(5) Locate the four large 450V capacitors at locations C734, C709, C710, and C852 without touching them (they look like soda cans). Flip over the power supply board. Touch each wire of the socketed light bulb or resistor for about 3 seconds to the negative and positive leads of each large capacitor, respectively; polarity is irrelevant. This discharges the high voltage from the capacitors so you don't get shocked while working on the power supply. The voltage usually slowly dissipates on its own, but it's better to be safe than sorry when you're talking about a potentially lethal 450V. Check the voltage with your multimeter in the appropriate DC mode to verify that the capacitor voltage has been drained; if you don't have a multimeter, just continue on.

(6) At this point, you can verify that the fuse at location F705 (looks like a small black box) has indeed failed by holding the multimeter's red and black probes on the fuse's leads with the multimeter in continuity mode. If you have no continuity, the fuse has internally failed; proceed to the next step.

(7) Desolder the fuse from location F705 and desolder the mosfets from locations Q723, Q721, Q719, and Q717 then replace with new components.

(8) Put the power supply board back in the tv, using just a couple screws to hold it in for now. Reattach the connectors to the power supply.

(9) Attach the broadcast cable line.

(10) Reconnect the AC power cable to the power supply (don't plug it into the wall socket). Hold down "Input" and "Volume-Down" simultaneously, then plug in the tv. The tv picture and sound should come on.

(11) With a small screwdriver or other probing device, depress the Reset button, not the System Reset button; it's the last recessed button below the cable jack on the back of the tv. The tv will reset, then you should get sound and a picture from channel 2.

(12) Reinstall the remaining power supply screws, back cover, and stand.

Pic of power supply:


Video of working tv:

===DONE===

Last edited by byalegend; 12-29-2010 at 11:23 PM.
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Old 12-31-2010, 03:30 PM   #6
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Quick update after the fix: The tv's still working beautifully. Hopefully, it continues to stay that way.
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Old 01-02-2011, 03:13 AM   #7
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Glad it is working for you and thanks for such a detailed previous post on how you fixed it. Your post is WHY these forums are such a great resource for people. Keep up the great posts!
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PFC5 View Post
Glad it is working for you and thanks for such a detailed previous post on how you fixed it. Your post is WHY these forums are such a great resource for people. Keep up the great posts!
Thanks, I appreciate it. I've been helped by advice from others on various forums and on the Internet in general, so I felt it was only right to return the favor.
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byalegend View Post
Thanks, I appreciate it. I've been helped by advice from others on various forums and on the Internet in general, so I felt it was only right to return the favor.
That is what got me so much into these HD forums also. So now I just pay it forward for someone else.
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Klipsch RP-5 Pwred Towers (mains) (525 watts peak each 12"Subs)
All Klipsch RC-25(ctr),(2)SS1(surr),(2)SS1(rearSurr)
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For SACD/DVD-A Samsung HD-841
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SA 3250HD
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Harmony 680 + (2) 670s (amazing remote/support)
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:30 AM   #10
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Getting a similar problem with my 1 year old refurbished LC-42LE700UN. I will try this test next weekend when I get a chance and see if I can locate the respective parts on my TV and see if the same fuse is bad. If so maybe I can perform the fix (hopefully). Thanks for posting this useful info, it was the only thing of it's kind I could find doing google searches, and the only chance that I can tell right now of not just losing the $900 I spent on this TV outright.
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:06 AM   #11
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Fuse and mosfet's probably failed due to a power spike.

Use a surge suppressor on the TV to keep that from happening.
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:30 PM   #12
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I had mine on a UPS with a surge protector, so that wasn't the cause of my issue. It had been going out for the past week, it would shut off and then come back on. But this time it just stayed off and never came back on. Hoping to get some time this weekend to perform the above test.
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Old 06-06-2011, 07:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by facesnorth View Post
I had mine on a UPS with a surge protector, so that wasn't the cause of my issue. It had been going out for the past week, it would shut off and then come back on. But this time it just stayed off and never came back on. Hoping to get some time this weekend to perform the above test.
My money would be on failed capacitor(s) in the power supply, since your problem was intermittent. It should be a fairly simple fix. You can usually spot failed capacitors by their domed tops, but they sometimes show no visible signs of failure.

As for my tv, I bought it from a guy who was looking to dump it, and I suspect that there was no surge protection in place when it failed.

Last edited by byalegend; 06-06-2011 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 06-06-2011, 08:37 PM   #14
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Yes I thought I might check for that too, thanks for chiming in. These are the high voltage caps that you are referring to? If I wanted to replace with high quality parts, where do you suggest I order from / and how to get the exact part # that I need? Well I will reply back this weekend after I take a looksee, maybe with some pics.
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Old 06-06-2011, 08:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by facesnorth View Post
Yes I thought I might check for that too, thanks for chiming in. These are the high voltage caps that you are referring to? If I wanted to replace with high quality parts, where do you suggest I order from / and how to get the exact part # that I need? Well I will reply back this weekend after I take a looksee, maybe with some pics.
The high voltage caps generally don't fail very easily, but it's possible. Regarding the high voltage caps, you just want to be sure to discharge them after you remove the power supply from the tv. Digikey.com is one of the best places to buy capacitors, but you may be fortunate enough to find replacement caps at a local electronics store such as Radio Shack.

Post up a pic when you're ready. Diagnosing issues over the Internet isn't easy, but again, this appears to be a simple fix.
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