Toshiba HF84 & HFX84 Owners Thread

hello.

does anyone have any info on the toshiba 26" HDTV?

I can't find any reviews for this TV, and how it compares to Samsung.

help is appreciated...thanks :)

Looking for any input on this Toshiba model 26HF84. Have not yet seen in and brick & mortor stores. I am hoping it does not have the same issues that are being reported by "some" 30HF84 users. This set should fit my need perfectly for now. Low price point :) , Good Size for my entertaiment center( due to spekears on bottom) :D , Lots of inputs. :p Only will need to add HDCP>HIMMI Connection.(cable dongel) :cool:

Yeah, I know. Its margins look much narrower than the others due to the speakers being on the bottom.

I guess nobody has bought one yet, orrrr..?:-)

I just bought the Toshiba 26-inch Widescreen HDTV (26HF84) at Futureshop in Canada today. I paid $674.99 Canadian ($534.99 US). It is perfect for my new high-end HomeTheater bedroom SETUP and I think I got a really good deal.

I was looking at the Samsung and Toshiba, side-by-side in the store and the Toshiba one just looked cooler and it had an HDMI connection on the back.

But I have a question, Are there any home-theater in a box setups that support HDMI???? or perhaps coming soon??? :D

Thanks

Yeah, I know. Its margins look much narrower than the others due to the speakers being on the bottom.

I guess nobody has bought one yet, orrrr..?:-)
Bestbuy,circuitcityand Pcrichard arent carrying the 26in in NY. I think the only place you can get is on line. Crutchfield and and a few others have it. I hate to buy a tv on line.

hello.

does anyone have any info on the toshiba 26" HDTV?

I can't find any reviews for this TV, and how it compares to Samsung.

help is appreciated...thanks :)

HI.. I have the Toshiba 30" which is the larger sister of the 26"...
the manual is the same for both.. the set is teriffic... great picture
and not too hard to operate... many menu's to master but simple
when done... factor color setting totally suck but it's easy to
customize a personal "memory" setting.. HDMI input shows slightly
better than the component input but you have to look pretty hard
and it has to be a good broadcast.. difference shows up mostly on
live sports broadcasts... I'm using DirecTV service with Sammy 360..
and standard OTA antenna tied into system... OTS broadcasts are
pretty amazing, quality-wise... best GEO

Try hhgreg - they seem to be carrying the range - I just bought the 34" model (34HF84) in Atlanta but it was the only one in stock. I believe they had display models of both the 26" and 30".

I just purchased a Toshiba 30" 30HF84, and I need some help on tweaking the setting for good picture quality on non hi-def channels. When I watching HDESPN the picture looks good but when I watch regular ESPN the picture looks grainy and fuzzy.

I also have the Toshiba 30 inch HF34 and am loving it... took a month or so to fully tweak but it's getting better all the time... I did notice a slight improvement when using the HDMI input from my Sammy 360 using DirecTV.. but also on the OTA signal... I recently purchased the AVIA Home Theater DVD for tuning the set and it is worth having.. however, here are the settings that seem an ideal starting point... adjust from these based on variations of broadcast from channel to channed and/or show to show...

(use MEMEORY setting to adjust; the factory settings are garbage)

Brightness 21 (can bring to 28 if overall dark movie, etc)
Contrast 30 (can lower to 26 if overall skin tone seems bright)
Color 08 to 10 (adjust for skin tone but much more gets harsh)
Tint -10 to -15 (adjust for skin tone as per your eye)
Sharpness 25 (between 22 and 25 is ideal and not much difference

I was pretty close to these adjusting by eye, but the AVIA disc really explains each adjustment and has extremely useful charts on the disc for fine tuning. Plenty of AVIA discs on ebay for about $30 with shipping.. can give you referral to source that gives you 30 minutes of phone consulting on any home theater issue if you buy from them... seems like a good deal.. have not made use of phone time yet but will let you know how that works out... LOVE the Toshiba, however.. just wish they planned ahead and had more than one HDMI input for the upscaling DVD decks coming on line with DVI/HDMI output.....best George / Chicago
GEO655@aol.com

Just purchased the Toshiba 34HFX84 mid October, in Calgary, AB, Canada.

Recently returned a Sanyo 30744 HDTV to Walmart. Happy with the PQ (allthough the barrel roll phenomenon was present) but was not happy with the inability to adjust tilt. Sanyo was great, called, discussed, and they just said "Return it to Walmart", 40 some days later. (boy I wish they sold Toshiba)

Thought that the Toshiba was the perfect TV for me. Now I'm waiting to see if I was right.

MOM ALWAYS SAYS "you need to say 5 positives before a negative"

- Best Stretch Mode (theatre wide one) to my like. Even prefered it to the Sony 34".

- Adjustments to the picture settings are saved for each input. Great for disabling SVM for high quality images (DVD, HD etc) and for leaving it on for SD Cable. All other settings for each input are saved also.

- Size and esthetics (cabinet appeal) I love the black border arround the tube.... (too many silver electronics IMO.... ) speakers unobtrusive at the bottom of the set. I use 7.1 Hometheater JBL and PIONEER 7.1 DTS/dolby EX setup for sound during movie time. The Set's internal sound is GREAT for regular TV watching (much better than the HF series.--- Cyclone BASS hooah!!!)

- Front AV inputs for the kid's PS/1 or Digital camera or Camcorder.... etc... really missed that on the Sanyo tv I had.

- Dual HDMI inputs, Dual Component, Dual A/V - Svideo and the Front inputs again..... I have to go buy more stuff to hook up now because I can!

Bonus positive.... Lovely, wonderful, excelent, (no barrel roll evident) no distortion issues, great, terrific Picture Quality! Colors were much more preferable to me than the Sony. In the words of a professional guy (Audio/ Video/ Home Theater) who I trust very much (as he wasn't making a dime out of the sale- he does projectors and plasma and LCD and that's it) "the Sony TV's have very vivid colors when viewed beside the competition. That color renditioning can, however, be overpowering when watched for long periods. The colors are almost "CARTOONY" they are so bright and Vivid." - I am forced to agree with the man as I spent a lot of time in various big box stores watching this tv, the Sony, the Panasonic and a couple of others.


NOW THE DIRT.... I had read the negatives on this set, it's sister HF and siblings 30HF and 30HFX84 and still felt that I had done enough independant thinking and shopping on the issue.
I was still very happy with the set on SD theatre wide 1 watching Boston put away the Yankees.

TROUBLE with GEOMETRY became evident while watching a DVD on Component inputs. MOST of my movies are WideScreen enhanced/anamorphic, with an aspect ratio of 2.35:1 (or 2.40:1) where you get the horizontal bars top and bottom.

The top of the screen has a horizontal geometry problem where the middle of the top horizontal line bows downward from the left and right corners about one half an inch lower than the height of the top corners.

It's not very apparent untill you have the extreme contrast of the bars against the picture. Then I went back to SD cable and noticed that this geometry problem affects ALL inputs on the TV.

My TV service guy was great in his coming over last Saturday, but couldn't fix the issue. HE sees it too and feels that he needs to try to correct the problem.....

I'VE been obsessing about the issue and finally got a hold of Toshiba Service in Vancouver... They returned my call within three days and are sending the TV store service man back to me with some kind of resolution to the issue. As the Toshiba rep. put it: "IF the geometry problem described is a half an inch out, that would be too much....." he was surprised that I said it was as much as a 1/2 inch out and he will contact the service man to discuss the problem before the service guy comes back...

This is my experience to date with the Toshiba 34HFX84. I will be updating the service as it happens. (Toshiba called me last night at 1900 hrs BC time. 2000 hrs in Alberta) I will trust in the process with Toshiba as their rep was very courteous and attentive. He has encouraged me to get back to him if the next service is not satisfactory.....

To anyone considering Toshiba.... Hang in there and find out what happens with me and this set.... :eek:

Sorry for the long post, I wanted to be thorough.

Toshiba Canada Vancouver Service rep TAD, suggested to Atlas TV Calgary, to try to install "chevron magnets" on the tube of the tv to straighten out the black bar at the top of my widescreen DVD images (2.35 or 2.40:1 ratio movies). They say (Atlas) that they tried it on the tv at the shop (demo) and no improvement.

Called Toshiba back and the response was that if it was less than a half an inch, that there would be nothing that they could do...measured the amount of pincushion droop and it's about 1/4 of an inch... too little to do anything with: unless it's plasma or lcd flat panel I've been told that geometry will not be perfect and that's all there is to that....

NOW I notice geometry problems on EVERY tv I see.... sh*t.
time to save big $$$$$$$$ for that LCD front projector.....

HD Cowboy: I am currently looking into purchasing the 34HFX84 and I wanted to know from you if the geometry issues are major enough to make you regret the purchase.

This model and the 30HFX84 are the only HD tube tv's on the market that will fit my entertainment center, so this complicates the matter for me. I really don't want to end up with a 27 inch tv, but if the 34HFX84 is not a great tv, I will probably have no choice. Quality is most important to me, so I would have to sacrifice in size if the Toshiba is not all it should be.

Please let me know your thoughts,
Thanks!

Nothing is perfect. yes I am repeating myself. kinda like a mantra if you will.

No, I do not regret the purchase. I am kicking myself for not having bought from a store that has a liberal return policy though.

I think that I stated the droop is about 1/4" or so.


I have seen HF and HFX tv's with slightly less geometry trouble... so, if I had bought from say F.S. in Canada, with the 30 day no hassle return or exchange, I probably could have ended up with a tv with only the slightest geometry problem.
It is only evident with the widescreen movies with 2.35:1 aspect ratio. (black bars present) 4:3 mode is actually very good. As is 1.85:1 movies or any stretched standard def cable.
In my case anything that fills the screen vertically is very OK.
I am going to activate my HDTV STB in the morning and see how that is and will update here after viewing. Stuck with Shaw on this issue though and that's the big 6 channels with 50% of them being the same as other.... One day on the demo in the store there were 3 channels with PBS HD. WOO HOO! (can't mount dish due to condo bylaw).... I'll post the HD result tomorrow night.

To sum up, for the dollar, the appeal of the cabinet, color, size, shape and functions and stretch modes and input options GREAT tv. Really.

Just wish that Toshiba wasn't weasling out of customer satisfaction.... My problem might not bother some, but it bothers me and I thought that would be enough to have Toshiba work with me on this....

Last note, was watching Bruce Lee Enter the Dragon in 2.35:1 tonight and I notice the bent bar less than ever.... good luck with the decision making. Stay tuned for HD report. ALL TV's HAVE SOME KIND OF ISSUE>>>> whatever it is.

My 34HF84 does not seem to have any black bar distortion or droop. I am generally very pleased with it in both DirectTV SD mode (stations vary considerably in signal quality) and for DVDs. I have yet to arrange for an HD service.

It's here... despite all my trouble (percieved and otherwise) with my Toshiba TV, My HDTV is finally HD! Shaw Motorola 6408 up and running this morning, and WOW :eek: Can't believe that I waited this long... Can't notice geometry problems when you are captivated by all of that detail in the picture. Recorded my first show tonight, can't wait to see how it turned out. Watched some of ICE AGE and the detail is definitely there over the DVD. Don't get me wrong though... DVD is still where it's at for no commercial viewing.... Just cant get over the images... Disappointing the black bar thing while watching the football games today though. The bars are smaller than 4:3 natural mode on my TV, and the detail is great, I just wish that the networks would get with the times man, I mean 16:9 is here, why don't they try to keep up? God, thankyou for my HDTV (and the deer I shot last week- they're both mmm mmm good) :cool:


edit: this issue of geometry, remember folks we are only talking about 1/4" variance in this horizontal line.... tonight I put the tape back on it and depending how you hold it, some might call it 3/16". If you are not anal like me about wishing that the whole world was perfect YOU may not even SEE what I'm talking about. Just enjoy your tv, no matter what kind you get.... That's what I'm gonna do.

Typo in the post, The new box I drive is the 6208 NOT 6408

Ok thankyou Ok thankyou.

Hi. New guy here -- great place!

I'm looking at getting this model, and have learned a lot about things like needing to turn off the SVM feature through the service menu (on the hf model). I finally had a chance to actually see the unit in person (it was an hfx, though) yesterday.

I can't seem to figure out whether the 34hf84 will remember my picture settings individually for each input. I know that the Sony 34xbr960 will do this, because I saw a write-up that mentioned it. But I don't see anything for the Tosh. I even downloaded the user manual .pdf, and it doesn't help much on this.

Does the 34hf84 have a separate "preferences mode" picture memory for each input, or will I have to adjust the picture every time I switch inputs?

Thanks!

-WW

dont know for sure about the HF... I have the HFX and IT does remember individual input settings...

I am pretty sure that you CAN NOT turn off SVM on the HF though... No toggle in the menus for that...
I think though that using MOVIE setting disables the SVM.... better check that out though...

Good luck

Hello. I'am new to this forum and have been reading some of the posts. I apologize if this is in 1 of the post already here. I'am looking to purchase the 34HFX84 due to the size and what I have read but I have searched everywhere on the net and I was wondering if anyone has read a review from anywhere. I did a google search but have not found 1. It is hard for me to believe there is not 1 review on this TV.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Chris

http://www.highdefforum.com/showthread.php?t=2365

http://www.highdefforum.com/showthread.php?t=2924

http://www.highdefforum.com/showthread.php?t=2752

http://www.highdefforum.com/showthread.php?t=2572

http://www.highdefforum.com/showthread.php?t=2540

That should help a little... Ask if there's anything not covered...

Thanks for the info. I have pretty much decided on this TV. I can get a good deal on it too. I'm just suprised there are not any reviews on this TV (Cnet, Sound/Vision etc).

Question for you? You have the Motorola 6208 DVR correct. How is everything hooked up? Are you using the DVI (cable box)to the HDMI hookup on the TV. Also if you have a receiver is the cables going to the out in the back of the cable box to the in of the receiver? Just trying to get ideas on how to hook everything up and get prepared on what cables I need to get.

Thanks
Chris

Yup, runnin' the 6208 and lovin it!!!! recordings like live and clear, man is it nice....

Hooking up I run

Component cables (home made $14. per set cost) (I call them BBNCC cables... - Better, Belden, Neutrik, Cowboy, Cables) and compared to the Mun$ter Brand at $169. per set I can't tell the difference!!

Would like to go HDMI but the cost is slowing me down, I finally found a DVI-D to HDMI cord at $30. but the guy won't let me return it if I don't like it. I was honest with him and told him that if it didn't improve my PQ that I wouldn't want to use it. Not only that but it's 6' long and I only require a 2 or 3 foot cord. I'll find one then I'll go with it. Not only that but the 8 yr old just got the PS2 he's been beggin for and if I hook that up with component I'll need to free up an input.

SPDIF coax from the 6208 to the AV receiver. was on optical but NO difference in sound quality with either. and I needed to free up an optical for my CD player. (coax home made at a cost of $6. Moon$ter can kiss my Canadian A$$)

RCA' s from the analog audio out of the STB, the DVD, the VCR to the TV for those days I don't feel like p*ssing off the neighbors....

Component from the DVD, (also home made set of cables BBNCC's)
Composite from the VCR side of the combo to the TV (you guessed it home made again)
Currently optical from the DVD to the AV receiver, but I'm gonna build another cord and take back another Optical cable to Walmart... I love their return policy for things I don't need...

I hope all these ramblings help, if I, when I go HDMI input on the TV I'll be sure to post here...
Good Luck and to all a Happy Boxing Day (son's 8th Bday) woo hoo!!! :eek: ( He's 8? Good Gravy I'm gittin' old)

I am seriously considering purchasing this Toshiba model since my old TV is on its last legs. I live in an apartment that only has access to cable TV which also includes digital cable. Unfortunately, my cable provider is Adelphia which is known for its crummy analog picture reception as well as poor customer service.

Will this set reconvert the Adelphia analog signal to be more watchable?
I will also have to trade in my Scientific Atlanta 3100 digital box for a Scientific Atlanta HD box.

Unfortunately, my apartment faces north otherwise I would have had a dish years ago. Why does the dish always have to point in a SW direction only?

Any information regarding the analog stations clarity would be greatly appreciated.

The TV isn't going to improve the analog PQ, but if there is an HD box available - digital is digital. If you have enough signal for the box to decode it then it appears! Voila! Signal amplifiers available from the cable company or from places like Radio Shack can offer signal boost of up to 10 db. my cable company shoots for zero db at my residence at the TV outlet, so it doesn't take much. The Toshiba TV does in my own opinion offer one of the best strectch modes for analog 4:3 programing in the business - I highly recommend it for that.

Good luck. :)

however, one must realize that for every 3 db less signal 1/2 half of the signal is lost. For example in the previous post the user said the cable co shoots for 0 Db this is to prevent over-driving the reciever. Under-driver the reciever has nearly the same results. So don't think the small numbers mean small changes - a change from 0Db to 3 Db doubles the signal...one splitter is 3 Db loss.

Yes... the 3db loss from One two way splitter is the fact...

With my current service provider 4 outlets are a part of the package... there was a time not too long ago you paid $$$$ for the extra outlets... Lots of issues with everyone splitting cable (within their own home and sometimes to the neighbor's home) causing signal loss and degraded PQ.

If you have only one outlet but split the cable to go to the stereo and split the TV run to the VCR and the STB you have created 6 db loss right at the HT setup!!! this is where a powered amp in-line prior to the first split will help. If you are running HD and I-Guide you will need a Bi-directional powered Splitter.... the electronics store of choosing will know how to help.

Good luck :cool:

I'm mere moments away from pulling the trigger on an interenet refurb purchase of this HD direct view set. I've done some research, and from what I can tell, the Toshiba 34HF83 (pre-gen model) has relatively high marks in terms of PQ and all other things HD wise ... I just want to make sure I can expect at least as good PQ with this next gen set as the previous model ...

Can't really see any reason why Toshiba would have changed a "good thing" ... and think that the biggest reason for moving to the "84" instead of the "83" is because of the "future proofing" the HDMI input will provide.

Anyone's thoughts about this would be GREATLY appreciated .. and any related thoughts about purchasing via the refurb avenue. I WILL purchase the 2 year extended warranty with the refurb. if that's the way I go.

Thanks so, so, so much.... and happy new year.

I hear you with the Sony recommendation ... I do. But I'd have to pay substantially more money to get up to even the KHS420 ... and I just don't have that money. With this offer, I can get the 34HF84 for $799 + $179 for shipping. At just a little over $1000 I can get into a 34" 16:9 format to upgrade substantially from my Zenith 27" 4:3 HDTV set.

But I DON'T want to sacrifice PQ in the process. I've been very happy with the HD quality of my Zenith set but I moved into a new apartment a couple of months ago and I'm further away from the TV now (9-12 feet) and I really feel strongly about moving up to the 34" 16:9 "footprint" ... but have read bad things about the Philips models available in that range for instance....

I DID read many good things about the Toshiba 34HF83, however ... and assumed (never a good idea I know... ) that the HF84 would produce similar quality results... if this is in error though, I would probably just consider purchasing the HF83 and forgo the HDMI port.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks so much.... I realize everyone comes at these issues with their own sets of ideas of what's more/most important and I'm just trying to share mine...

Have Mine Since September . Pq Great,no Complaints. Sit Back And Enjoy Your Set.

I have had the toshiba 34hf84 for about a month now, and can say the pq is very good. I really enjoy it and haven;t had any issues.

... for their input.

Based on the last few posts to my thread, I pulled the trigger earlier today and the HF84 should be here within 7-10 days.

I'll post again once I have it and let people know how pleased/displeased I am once it arrives.

What's the best/cost effective way to optimize my HD PQ and home theater sound btw??? Is there one DVD that contains most of the "non-professional" tools I could use to tweak my system?

From what I've gathered, I should disable velocity scan modulation (or words to that effect) and turn the sharpness and/or brightness to nearly nil as it really introduces only distortion and not additional clarity to images....

Also, I've got a Yamaha HTR-5650 5.1 reciever that I run surround sound thru... it has several component video inputs in it and one component video out... from what I understand ... it would be a clean way to run all my video sources thru and do the video source switching thru the Yamaha unit as opposed to thru the set itself... BUT.. I wasn't able to figure out how to switch video sources when I set it up that way... so I just ran the DVD and component sources from my HD cable box direct to the Zenith HDTV I have now...

I'm not sacrificing anything by doing it that way am I? I think I only have ONE component input to the Zenith that is capable of 1080i .. and the other is lesser.... 480i I think... so I run the DVD thru that...

With the HF84 will both component video inputs show me a full 1080i? Doesn't that set upconvert everything to 1080i?

If so.. how dramatic an increase in PQ will I notice when watching DVD's with my progressive scan DVD player and the new set???

Thanks... thanks.. and thanks AGAIN. :-)

... for their input.

Based on the last few posts to my thread, I pulled the trigger earlier today and the HF84 should be here within 7-10 days.

congratulations!

I'll post again once I have it and let people know how pleased/displeased I am once it arrives.

What's the best/cost effective way to optimize my HD PQ and home theater sound btw??? Is there one DVD that contains most of the "non-professional" tools I could use to tweak my system?

If you can get your hands on a copy of DVE (digital video essentials) or something similar (AVIA maybe - not too sure never used this one) that should help.

From what I've gathered, I should disable velocity scan modulation (or words to that effect) and turn the sharpness and/or brightness to nearly nil as it really introduces only distortion and not additional clarity to images....

I'm not positive as I have the HFX with a menu toggle for disabling SVM ... but... try editing setings for "movie" mode. I have read others that state this setting disables SVM on the HF.

Also, I've got a Yamaha HTR-5650 5.1 reciever that I run surround sound thru... it has several component video inputs in it and one component video out... from what I understand ... it would be a clean way to run all my video sources thru and do the video source switching thru the Yamaha unit as opposed to thru the set itself... BUT.. I wasn't able to figure out how to switch video sources when I set it up that way... so I just ran the DVD and component sources from my HD cable box direct to the Zenith HDTV I have now...

Using the AV receiver as a component switcher may slightly impair/degrade PQ... Cables and the quality of the component will have a bearing on this. IF you have a limited number of component inputs and a greater number of units utilizing component output then having that capability in a receiver is great. I use straight to the tube hookup. Also, because the receiver I own will not upconvert composite or Svideo to component, then I am still forced to switch inputs on the TV. ONE DAY I will purchase the Elite receiver which will upconvert all video sources to one component out to the TV... just not yet.

I'm not sacrificing anything by doing it that way am I? I think I only have ONE component input to the Zenith that is capable of 1080i .. and the other is lesser.... 480i I think... so I run the DVD thru that...

Huh? Oh OK, got it now on the re-read... both component inputs on the Toshiba are the same... see below.

With the HF84 will both component video inputs show me a full 1080i? Doesn't that set upconvert everything to 1080i?

Selectable 540p or 1080i dependant of the source input.

If so.. how dramatic an increase in PQ will I notice when watching DVD's with my progressive scan DVD player and the new set???

You will love the DVDs on this set! Play with the various output formats of your player (ie toggle progressive or interlaced) and try them both in the 540p or 1080i modes on the TV... I am convinced that in my own case leaving the DVD player in Interlaced mode and running the TV in 540p with "Film" selected produces the best result... I also believe that there are varying qualities of DVD players and that my own results may or may not be typical... Happy viewing.

Thanks... thanks.. and thanks AGAIN. :-)

You're welcome.

I have had my HF for a couple of months now and am generally delighted - especially now that I have Comcast HD. I am still learning aspects about the set and recently discovered a few facts which are not clearly explained in the manual:-
Each input has four picture settings, three of which are factory set (Sports, Standard & Movie) and the fourth, Preferences, can be adjusted and saved. If you try adjusting any of the factory set modes it will merely save it as Preferences, overriding any previous settings. However, you can save different Preferences for different inputs - so you can set up your DVD input mode to be different to your HD input - this is useful as I find I need a somewhat brighter picture for HD than for DVD. Try these settings before you go to the expense of a calibration disc (these I stole from another bulletin board)
Contrast = 65
Brightness = 36
Color = 37
Sharpness = 22 (or less)
Tint = R1
Color Temp = Medium
The factory settings, particularly Standard, are quite good for some SD cable stations but the sharpness is too high on all of them and tends to give a grainy look. I use the above settings for my DVD input but boost the Brightness and Color a little for HD (this is a bit of a compromise between the HD and SD stations as I don't want to have to change the settings each time I change stations! By the way I use the component inputs and have not yet tried my Comcast DVR DVI. Also, I can't see any picture difference between the the 520P and 1080I setting (for DVDs) so leave it on the latter.
By the way - when you have settings you are happy with make a note of them as for some reason it is all too easy to accidentally save one of the factory settings as your preferences when playing with the menus!

Hi everybody,

I got my Toshiba today and I'm still poking around and trying to set everything up. It looks great even with regular composite inputs, however I'm not the best reference cause I'm easily amused :)

If anybody has any suggestions for the setup (I saw somebody listing their brightness and picture preferences) or the way to save them please let me know.

This is my plan, though:
-DVD to HDMI to TV
-HD Time Warner Cable to HDMI to TV
-TV to digital audio to AV Receiver

I haven't read the manual yet, but if anybody knows if it's not possible let me know
:confused:

Thanks

Update on DVD PQ tomorrow...

I just purchased a Toshiba 34HFX84 and I have a few questions for those who may already own one of these TV's.

My first question has to do with this feature of the TV:

CrystalScan HDSC™ upconverts all video signals (including 480i/p) to either 1080i HD on CRT based models or 720p on fixed pixel sets, resulting in a significant reduction in jagged line artifacts. Selectable 540p, for users who want to display a progressive scan image from a progressive scan source, is vailable via the on-screen menu.

I have a progressive scan DVD player. Since the TV upconverts all video signals, would I receive any better picture by purchasing a DVD player with a HDMI connection versus the progressive scan player connected with the component cables?

My next question has to do with connecting the Cable Box:

The cable box has a DVI connection. Would I receive a better picture by using a DVI to HDMI cable versus the component cables?

Thanks for any information you can provide.

about HDMI/DVI versus Component. The biggest advantage is convenience --one cable for video and audio instead of 4 or 5 cables. I would not think that the PQ would appear to be noticeably better. I am not sure if component video cables carry the signal compressed. If not compressed, than it's the same exact signal as HDMI.

Somebody else know if component video uses compressed digital video or not?

I doubt you'd see any PQ difference between using component compared to buying a pretty expensive dvi to hdmi connection. You'd also lose sound by going dvi to hdmi, thus kind of wasting the hdmi's purpose.

true you don't carry the sound with the DVI/HDMI cable conversion, but if you are running that sound to the home theatre receiver then what you have done is freed up one component input with audio to the TV!!!! this is what I hope to do with my 6208 STB to the TV... :)

can't comment on the hdmi dvd issue too much though. I think I read somewhere that if the dvd upscales and outputs 1080i that the image is awsome... Pretty sure I read that somewhere. :confused:

So lets see...
would I receive any better picture by purchasing a DVD player with a HDMI connection versus the progressive scan player connected with the component cables? Not in and of itself. However most DVD players that have HDMI are also the newer HD upscaling players which would certainly get you some benefit there.

The cable box has a DVI connection. Would I receive a better picture by using a DVI to HDMI cable versus the component cables? Again not especially but it does free up a component input as others mentioned. But if you are going to get a new upscaling DVD player I would for sure save the HDMI input for that.
--------------

Somebody else know if component video uses compressed digital video or not? nope, component is analog, it doesn't send digital anything.

The Tv has 2 HDMI inputs. You can use 1 for the cable box and use 1 for the DVD player if you have 1 with HDMI.

just bought the same tv and am going to use a dvi/hdmi cable
from my HD STB to send DIGITAL signal to tv vs. the ANALOG
component cables. Which I have read is ONLY wayto get true
1080i

Is this right, so far it's what I've found.

Why buy $1000+ tv and hook up to a STB with HDMI interface
with component cables ?

Bought my cable on ebay for $15. ( 6 ft. DVI-HDMI)
Don't buy excessive lenght cable though. (3m-9 ft. max.)
try to stay 6 ft. or less.

HDMI has more than enough bandwidth for 1080i. What you read was BS.

Hi Cowboy, What do you thionk of the Picture Size and Picture Modes?, which ones do you use most. Thanks

I bought 34" and though it would have been nice to go bigger, I really wanted CRT direct view for image quality...

I mean after this it's gotta be DLP, LCD flat or RP and I'm not convinced on those technologies yet...

PQ is great for DVD - I only buy widescreen and only set to full.

PQ is fantastic on HD... :eek: wow!!! :cool: can't say enough about that. Full or normal depending on the STB setting.

SD cable I don't watch it through the STB I view that off air direct. Theater Wide One mode.

good luck

Does anyone have any recommendations for the settings (color, contrast etc...) I know TV has certain settings like sports, standard, movie, however thought I may receive a better picture settiing my own.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Also, I was watching Siderman Man 2 Widescreen DVD and I still getting some thin black lines at the top and bottom. Is this common?

Thanks

30HFX84
settings:
Time Warner digital cable with HDTV (15 channels)
Pr.scan Philips DVD player
still using component video on both, waiting for HDMI cables.

issues:
slight curvature on vertical straight lines left side of screen. barely noticeable. there is a tilt/distortion due to pseudo-flat screen ability in the right bottom corner. tilt feature fixes some of the effect.

comments:
I love it. The HD is so great, I can't watch regular cable anymore. Which might be an issue because I can't believe that it's only subjective and that SD is crappy because I just watched crystal clear pic on HD. Maybe hdmi will improve some SD but i doubt it.
DVD's look great too. Newer ones seem to be of better quality and the picture looks very close to hi-res. The new Star Wars DVD's are of breathtaking clarity.

I watch DVD's in "full" mode, reg cable (4:3 pic) in "tw1", sometimes HBO comes in as widescreen so i set it to "tw2" .

For recommended settings look back to an earlier post of mine (01/04)

the HF and HFX84 owner's group have needed this for a while...

you go girl!!! just kidding about the girl thing... :eek:

After months of researching and thinking I finally made the big jump and should be getting this TV next week. I can't wait. Will let everbody know what my opinion is.

Cowboy or anybody who can answer this. I have a motorola 6412 (dual tuner). Just wondering how the regular channels look on this TV? My brother just bought a DLP and he said they were horrible but HDTV looked great.

Thanks Cowboy for all the info. Probally will be asking you again though if you don't mind

This is my first HD rig so I cannot compare it to anything. I was out to get HDTV as cheaply as possible.

Toshiba 26HF84A ($699 CDN FutureShop)
Motorola 6208, Shaw Cable (BC, Canada, only 6 HD stations so far)

The TV
Picture is excellent. I've owned Sony since the 70s when I sold them but I must say this Toshiba picture is very nice, especially HD of course.

In 4:3 natural mode the bars on the right and left are gray, I expected and would have preferred black. Not a huge deal because I mostly watch regular 4:3 TV in the Theatre Wide1 stretch mode but still seems like a poor choice by Toshiba in my (admittedly newbie) opinion.

My TV has a very slight light bar along the top of the screen, only really noticeable on a dark or black scene but I will get Toshiba to look at it just to be sure.

The HD is amazing and it does make watching regular TV a bit of a chore.

The tuner does a much better job with analog signals than the Motorola 6208

So far this TV has exceeded expectations

I don't think the settings mean much, I guess I like a fairly bright, subtle color, lower contrast image because my settings right now are;

Brightness: 26
Contrast: 33
Color: 10-12
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 14
Color Temp: Medium or Cool

The Cable Box

I love the simplicity of the PVR. Find the program in the guide and just press the record button and the start/stop times are all automatic. Quality looks the same, I would expect they would be using some kind of MPEG2 compression but I don't think they are.

I also like the ability to watch a previously recored show WHILE recording another, cool. :D

The analog signals are not very good. They seem grainy compared to the signals using the Toshiba tuner, that's one quibble, that really makes no sense in my view, should be simple enough from an engineering POV.

I'm using component cable for interconnect that came with the 6208. I tried $80 Monster 3ft cable but could see no difference at all.

That's it for now. I'll report back about the minor TV issue and when I've had a chance to try some DVD source.

David

Regarding the issues of PQ on SD 4:3 analog... it's been documented widely that the image is not as good as through the TV set's on-board tuner... For myself the issue of grey bars vs. black bars was fixed with the addition of the 6208... select OFF in the 6208's menu for the 4:3 OVERIDE option... then everything 4:3 will have black bars in Natural (Wide mode selected on the Toshiba.)

For the next paragraph remember please that I use the AV-3000 universal remote... ONE REMOTE TO RULE THEM ALL!!! ONE REMO... (you get it) :confused:

- For myself I use the I-"guide" on the 6208 "STB" first, to find the program I would like to watch. IF IT'S Standard Def. TELEVISION>>
- Then I select the "Channel ## " for the program I want, on the "TV" remote... (and Have previously left the ANT "input" on "Theater Wide 1" setting.)
- NOW I am watching SD from the TV tuner stretched but with better PQ than the box. To get back to the box I press "recall" (I think it's "last channel" or "previous channel" on the TV remote)

If you program, or have programmed the STB remote into the TV remote this should work quite well for you...

PATSFAN 4553 --- Your brother was absolutely correct... SD ON THIS TV THROUGH THE STB LOOKS RATHER LIKE IT HAS AN STD, HEHE... :eek: Just use the tuner IMHO...

RAVEON -- BINGO -- No Mon$ters allowed behind my Home Theater... NO POINT IN WASTING $$$$$$$$ FOR THE SAME PQ from a QUALITY connection NOTE: quality, some cables really are just junk. :cool:

i am buying either the 30hfx84 or 30hf84 real soon. i have a question on connections.

The STB Comcast provides is a Motorola 6200 with a DVI output. To connect my HDTV via HDMI with DVI, do I:

a) buy a DVI to HDMI cable
b) use the DVI cable Comcast provides (i do not know which brand) and then use a DVI-HDMI adapter
c) buy an HDMI cable and use a DVI-HDMI adapter

Also when using a HDMI-DVI adapter, do i want the adapter to be inserted into the HDMI input on the TV or should i use an adapter into the DVI output on the STB?

Which option is the best (or is there a better option I havent listed)?

In either case, which brand of cable and/or adapter is the best i should buy that isnt expensive like Monster (or is Monster worth the more money because of great PQ)?

Thanks
Matt

Hey if Comcast is providing DVI cables then go with that one...

Just pick up the HDMI/DVI adapter plug to go to the TV. No sense in buying a cable when you've got one handed to you.... really. Like, where do I sign up for Comcast? Shaw in Calgary, no DVI cable... just some components... oh well.

If you ever upgrade the box and IT comes with an HDMI output THEN you'll want an HDMI cable....

Research mon$ter a little... Not too many think they are worth the charge.... I don't.


ALSO cable that doesn't work provided free by the cable co. will probably be replaced free by the cable co.!!!! IANALBIPOOTV

Hi,
Just got the TV today and it looks great. Haven't been able to play with it to much but so far so good. I'm trying to program the remote (CT-90164) so it controls everything and there is no code in the manual for the motorola cable box. I do know if I am missing things but isn't Motorola pretty big?

I have the 6412 dual tuner and all I want is the universal remote code. Any help would be great meanwhile I will look on the net.

Thanks

I just use the Comcast supplied remote for the Motorola - there is no way that all the DVR functions could be replicated on the TV remote! Most of the time all I need to do to the TV is switch it on and off and adjust the volume which I can do with the DVR remote! Hopefully once you have set up the Preferences (see my previous post from 01/04 regarding picture settings etc) you won't need to change anything when channel surfing - if you select Theatre Wide 1 for your SD 4:3 viewing, it will return to this when switching back to an SD channel from an HD one.

http://www.highdefforum.com/showthread.php?t=4165 :eek: :cool:

Hi all, first post.

I bought a Toshiba 26HF84 on Boxing Day for a pretty good price. The size is just right for the room, but I'm having a problem trying to get the darn thing to play nice with my HTPC.

Does anyone happen to know what the timings are for 540p and 1080i with this set? It'd help me immensely in trying to get Powerstrip running right.

Thanks in advance!

I am a very happy owner of a 34HF84. Just thought I'd comment on what a consider to be a good DVD match. I am running a Toshiba 5970 DVD player w/my TV. It is an upconverting player w/an HDMI output. It works very well. There is some debate as to whether or not a digital signal will benifit an analog tube display. I won't get into that. I will only tell you that I get a breathtaking picture. There is also another benifit. Before I went HDMI I used the "Full" option to view anamorphic DVD's. Because the image is upconverted to pseudo 1080i the full option is no longer available. This actually worls out nicely. Most DVD's play nicely on "natural" "Zoom 1" on the DVD player works beautifully on anamorphics w/no discernable picture loss and no black bars anywhere at all. Also for music listening, the DAC's are up to it. By the way, it comes w/an HDMI cable. At first glance it's a dog, too long (6 ft) and skinny, but my dealer claimed it would work perfectly and it does. Build quality not great and remote not intuitive but what do you want for 179 bucks, cable included?

I just purchased the 26HF84 on Friday, and have some concerns about the unit's picture quality. I searched all over the L.A. area, and the only place I found that had it in stock was Fry's in Burbank...and they had only one left (besides the floor display).

What I noticed initially was that the picture was very dark and contrasty. After going thru the Dig. Video Essentials dvd calibration, here are the settings that had to be used to get the optimal picture...

(Settings go from 0-50)
Brightness: 47
Contrast: 26
Color: 18
Tint: -6
Sharpness: 5
Temp: Medium
SVM and CableClear: OFF

It seems very strange that the brightness setting has to be cranked up so high to get even close to a correct picutre. The same holds true for BOTH component inputs with both HDTV cable AND dvd player output. Have tried 3 different sets of cables (2 comp. and 1 S-video) and all of these units play back fine on my other HDTV (sony rear crt proj.) with no brightness problems. What I have also noticed is that even when the brightness is cranked up to this level, the darkest areas of the displayed image are often very crunched/clipped. For example, when watching a movie with a lot of shadowed areas, those portions of the picture lack any range or detail. One additional weird thing is a faint "glow" or area of lightness at the top border of the tube. It runs all the way across the display and is most visible when the picture in that area is black (such as letterbars).

Is it possible that my unit is defective? I'm considering ordering one BestBuy just to make sure. They dont stock this model in the stores here, so I'd have to have shipped to the store. No shipping charges but would be about a week wait.

Thanks,
Mitch

My unit also requires very high brightness settings for HD and DVD. Other channels don't need this much brightness though, I turn it back down into the 30s.

I also have the same "light bar" at the top of the screen.

Overall though I'm happy with the unit for the price, the cheapest way of getting into HiDef that I could find. The next jump would be non-CRT and that would be at least double or even triple the price for the same screen size.

Raveon,

Thanks for the reply. Your earlier message stated you were using a brightness of 26, which is one of the reasons I got so concerned since mine is almost twice as high. Do you also find that the brightness/black levels change slightly depending on how much bright stuff is in the frame? The DVE dvd talks about this being a problem with some equipement, and I do indeed see a huge change in their grey level pluges on the calibration pattern that alternates between black and white backgrounds. For example, if a program goes from a shot where the images is made up of mostly midtones & darks, then the camera pans to reveal a patch of bright sunny sky...the overall brightness/contrast of the screen seems to change. Darker areas get pushed into blacks. Make sense? My Sony HD and previous standard def panasonic do NOT exhibit this problem.


I would really like to avoid going to buy another unit if possible, espeically if the chances are the replacment would behave the same way. Too bad they are so hard to find in stock locally.

when I go to progressive scan on the DVD player the picture becomes brighter...

I prefer interlaced and need to run about 53 bright for that....

HD via HDMI needed more bright too about 53 or 4 I think...

These variances in the numbers are the reason that each set needs to be calibrated in it's own right... setting numbers are not universally interchangable.... find what works for your own set....

HDCowby,

Do your settings go from 0-100? Mine go to 50, so that's one reason I find a brightness of 47 a little excessive for a properly working set.

thanks,
m

when I go to progressive scan on the DVD player the picture becomes brighter...

I prefer interlaced and need to run about 53 bright for that....

HD via HDMI needed more bright too about 53 or 4 I think...

These variances in the numbers are the reason that each set needs to be calibrated in it's own right... setting numbers are not universally interchangable.... find what works for your own set....

Hello-

I've been looking for some exact measurements for the width and height of the 34HFX84. I've gotten some slightly different values off the net (i.e. width = 32", 33 1/2", 33 5/8", 33 9/16", etc.) With these numbers I think it will be a very tight fit, so I'm hoping it isn't much (any!) wider. I am a little nervous because the Toshiba site says that the measurements are subject to change and may not be accurate and that you should double check them on an actual set. In addition I read somewhere that the 34HF84 was actually 34.25" vs. the advertized 33.7", yikes! I'm hoping this isn't the case with the 34HFX84

So I was wondering if someone who actually owns the set, or has access to one, would be kind enough to measure it and let me know what the "real" meausements are. I would do it myself, but the only one I've found is on crutchfield.com. I'd prefer not to have one delivered and then find out it is too big for my entertainment center.

-Thanks!

MFG,

I just measured mine and it was 33 1/2 at the widest point. Good luck I know this is the only TV that would fit in my entertainment ctr. Just got mine and love it. Great TV

Enjoy

patsfan-

Thanks a lot. Now I'm pretty sure I can fit it in my entertainment center. Still a tight fit though. I'm actually going to need to build a 3 1/2" stand to lift the TV so that it fits vertically between the hinges on the pocket doors on either side. I think I'll need to be able to slide the TV from side to side 1/4" to close the doors Hopefully the TV will be worth all the effort! ;)

Out of curiosity where did you get your HFX84? And how much did you pay? I'm thinking about going through crutchfield @ $1599.

Thanks again

MFG,

I just measured mine and it was 33 1/2 at the widest point. Good luck I know this is the only TV that would fit in my entertainment ctr. Just got mine and love it. Great TV

Enjoy

HDCowby,

Do your settings go from 0-100? Mine go to 50, so that's one reason I find a brightness of 47 a little excessive for a properly working set.

thanks,
m
0-100 that's right... but try to think of the number as eroneous... it's only a reference and doesn't mean anything.... not really....

For example.... OOTB ( out of the box ) I had to adjust the setting for tilt correction to -7... bad right? not really... a little more learning for me then on to the service menu where I adjusted the value for the GMF setting and ... lookee thar.... tilt setting on the user menu is now back to "0"... does that mean that the -7 went away? NOPE... just hid it by changing the set point value in the service menu... now I have tilt correction available on both sides of zero...

Point of all of that drivel is that if you couldn't lower the brightness anymore or couldn't raise it... you were at "100" bright let's say... then you would need to work from the service menu to give you room to increase brightness from the user menu.... The whole thing is really quite relative.... any time any one posts there settings it's just a reference... a starting point AND more importantly it's what's working for them on their set

G'day.... :D

Can someone do me a big favor. I'm thinking about a HXF to fit on a corner cabinet. Width at the front is no problem but can someone measure the width at the back (not the depth). Thanks

Exchanged it for another set yesterday. The new one looks MUCH better. So, it appears I did have a bad unit after all.

thanks for all the help
m

MFG
Glad to here it will fit. I know I went through the same thing but still have a couple of inches to spare.

I actually got mine through Crutchfield. I was suppose to get it cheaper but it didn't work out. I ordered mine on a Wednesday and it was delivered on the following Tuesday. That's from Virginia to outside of Boston. Not bad. They tend to be expensive but not to many companies sell it. I do recommend Crutchfield though. Let me toss this out there. If you see it cheaper somewhere else let them know. I didn't pay full price.

Good luck

After mulling through all of the reviews for awhile, and finally getting my Toshiba 30HF84 today I decided to post my early imprressions.
This set is superb. I was gettting a little concerned with all of the negative reviews being posted on issues. The set I got has a mfg date of December 2004. This set appears to have no problems currently. What a great picture!!!

I have been an 34hf84 owner since mid November and have generally been delighted with the performance. I have not yet adjusted the picture with either of the available diagnostic DVDs but will soon - I am currently using adjustment levels posted by someone else elswhere.....

I am surprised and a bit concerned that reviews of the performance of this set seem to be inconsistant;

http://www.hometheatermag.com/directviewandplasmatvs/105toshiba/

"Perfect color and an amazing black level—in other words, everything you'd expect from a CRT. "

This one which I read yesterday gives it a glowing report but Consumer Reports, in the current issue, place it well down the field behind three Sonys and rate the picture as below average. My feeling is that CR may well be good at auto and refridgerator tests but I wonder if they really know the right way to set up TVs in front of their viewing panel?

Incidentally, the Home Theater Mag gives a useful tip to reduce the SVM (which is not switchable on the HF, only the HFX) by using the Movie settings as a basis for saving to Preferences.

I have been an 34hf84 owner since mid November and have generally been delighted with the performance. I have not yet adjusted the picture with either of the available diagnostic DVDs but will soon - I am currently using adjustment levels posted by someone else elswhere.....

I am surprised and a bit concerned that reviews of the performance of this set seem to be inconsistant;

http://www.hometheatermag.com/directviewandplasmatvs/105toshiba/

"Perfect color and an amazing black level—in other words, everything you'd expect from a CRT. "

This one which I read yesterday gives it a glowing report but Consumer Reports, in the current issue, place it well down the field behind three Sonys and rate the picture as below average. My feeling is that CR may well be good at auto and refridgerator tests but I wonder if they really know the right way to set up TVs in front of their viewing panel?

Incidentally, the Home Theater Mag gives a useful tip to reduce the SVM (which is not switchable on the HF, only the HFX) by using the Movie settings as a basis for saving to Preferences.

People perhaps should read Consumer Reports but never just Consumer Reports. They very well may have not had the set(s) adjusted optimally, and let's face it: their appraisal of what a "quality" picture entails might be subjective and open to discussion.

As for refrigerators (and other appliances), their recommendations should be viewed with scrutiny. We bought our Whirlpool refrigerator based largely on a good CR ranking. They neglected to pay attention, however, to the breakage-prone shelving on the inside of the doors, a design flaw that has cost us at least $100 over the years in replacement parts. Whoops.

And as for cars: back in 1974 I shopped for my first new auto. Consumer Reports recommendations would have steered me to a cute little Fiat 128, which they LOVED. This turned out to be a short-lived, troublesome car that disappeared from the roads in a few years. The little Datsun subcompact I ended up with, which they rated fairly poorly, proved reliable and easy to service, and it is still in our family today, thirty years later.

And don't even get me started on their fairly idiosyncratic approach to rating cameras and lenses :rolleyes: .

patsfan-

I have another measurement question for you (or anyone else reading this). From a top or side view how much of the set is at 33 1/2"? Does it start to taper down immediately, or is the majority of the set 33 1/2" wide?

MFG,

I just measured mine and it was 33 1/2 at the widest point. Good luck I know this is the only TV that would fit in my entertainment ctr. Just got mine and love it. Great TV

Enjoy

MFG
The majority of the set is 33 1/2. I took it from the top and bottom of the TV.

Later

The maximum width is actually about 7 inches from the front face (it tapers slightly towards the front) and after about 8 inches it starts to taper to the back. My hf is quite a tight fit in my entertainment centre width wise but has enough room on top for the centre speaker and underneath for the STB. Beware that the bottom is flat all the way to the back of the set so if it needs to stick through the back of an enclosure you have to extend the cutout level with the bottom of the set - hope that's clear. By the way these size sets are awfully difficult to manhandle into tight fitting spaces - beware!

Thanks a lot for the info guys. Do you think there would be any problem if the back of the set was hanging over the back of the entertainment center about 3"? I assume most of the weight is in the front so hopefully this wouldn't be a problem. I checked my entertainment center today to see if it would support 180lbs (me) and it all looks good so as soon as I get back from my vacation next week I'm going to order one.


The maximum width is actually about 7 inches from the front face (it tapers slightly towards the front) and after about 8 inches it starts to taper to the back. My hf is quite a tight fit in my entertainment centre width wise but has enough room on top for the centre speaker and underneath for the STB. Beware that the bottom is flat all the way to the back of the set so if it needs to stick through the back of an enclosure you have to extend the cutout level with the bottom of the set - hope that's clear. By the way these size sets are awfully difficult to manhandle into tight fitting spaces - beware!

I have big problem w/Consumer Reports. I used to be a member. I bought a car. a terrible car. Consumer Reports sent me a questionairre. The way it was worded, I couldn't put down any of my complaints. That car went on to become one of their best picks. Conversly I sold cars for a while. Buyers would come in with totally off the wall "dealer prices" from CC. We knew that we would only sell them a car after they went from dealership to dealership and got a dose of reality. At any rate, my rant aside. CC reviews everything from TV's to pampers "a jack of all trades, master of none. Home Theater specializes in one thing and one thing only.....home theater. That has to tell you somthing.

I have ordered my 34HF84 and hope to get delivery within a week. In the meantime I got a proscan Toshiba DVD player to hold me over until HD/DVD becomes the standard and the prices are tolerable. I am assuming since I have a SciAtlanta 8000 from Cox cable now, I will get a SciAtlanta HD8000 from Cox when I sign up for HD (or something similar) until the multi-room format becomes standard in the next year or so (I'm moving my 27" standard TV, old DVD and 8000 to the bedroom). The 8000's have two tuners so I can DVR two channels at same time and also use it for PIP. How does this play with the POP in the HF84's? Will the HF84 interpret PIP as POP without any additional tweaking? Or do I need to run a "raw" cable line to "ANT 1" so I can use one of my POP's to view a basic cable signal in one of the POP's? My main aim is to be able to watch more than one NCAA game at a time in March, and our local CBS affiliate is way ahead of the curve with multiple channels in addition to an HD channel.

Thank you all for your previous posts; I have learned a lot to get me ready and keep me sane when the HDTV arrives. I hope I can contribute to the thread in the future.

Jim

Thanks a lot for the info guys. Do you think there would be any problem if the back of the set was hanging over the back of the entertainment center about 3"? I assume most of the weight is in the front so hopefully this wouldn't be a problem. I checked my entertainment center today to see if it would support 180lbs (me) and it all looks good so as soon as I get back from my vacation next week I'm going to order one.

MFG
You're right. The weight is in the front. Mine actually hangs out about 2". I think you will be fine. Good luck and enjoy the vacation.

Hi. The 34HFX84 is on its way to my house as we speak!! I do need to cut a hole in my unit though as its only 22" deep and the TV is 24". Can anyone tell me what the height and depth of the rear of the TV is?

It will be arriving on Monday, so if you can get it to me before then that would fantastic as I need to make the cuts!!!

Thx in Advance.

1. - wait for the set to arrive

2. - measure it yourself... (ie your tape measure... your reference points... your pen and paper... )

3. - measure it again yourself. (double check same reference points, double check numbers on the paper)

4. - cut it once, that way you won't have to cut it twice and find out it's STILL too big in one direction (ie too wide or too tall an opening from the first cut)

Good luck.

Hi i was wondering if someone could please help me out. I have a 30hfx84 hooked up through hdmi to the toshiba hd dvd 5070. I can't seem to get the exact picture i would like and was wondering if someone could tell me the settings they have on theres if at all possible or at least show me where to get those. I am unable to get a calibration disk right now and this has been driving me crazy. Thank You in advance.

Anyone with a toshiba 30hfx84 or a 34hfx84 please if you could post your settings i would be very aprreciative. Thank You, in advance

hi i finally got the tv lookin pretty good i wasn't adjusting my color at all and that is what needed to be adjusted most of all i am going to get a digital video essentials disk when i get paid on friday moneys kinda tiight right now after the purchase of tv, hd dvd player, and hdmi cable. Thankx for anyone who answered back though. :)

Anyone with a toshiba 30hfx84 or a 34hfx84 please if you could post your settings i would be very aprreciative. Thank You, in advance
Although it's in the thread somewhere...

SVM = OFF
Sharpness = 0 -20 (in that range)...
Colour = ~40 or so
Bright and Contrast = ~ 45 or so
Tint = 0 to -6 r
Colour Temp = cool (really a matter of preference) (cool or med)

Good luck....
These are approximate settings... everyone's taste (or eye) will be different, and DVE will help you alot! TV will need calibration again at 100 hours or so after the set has "burned in a bit"... the main thing is to tone it down for now and not run it in "torch" mode.... the light that burns brightest does not burn the longest... :cool:

Thankx for posting hd cowboy but the 34's must be differant from the 30's because those didn't work to well on mine. Like i said i'm get the DVE disk so i'll see what happens when i get that. Once again thankx :D

Those settings roughly match mine on my 34hf84 except that SVM cannot be selected off - HOWEVER if you adjust from the Movie factory setting (so it becomes your Preferences), the SVM is set to Low.

Thankx for posting hd cowboy but the 34's must be differant from the 30's because those didn't work to well on mine. Like i said i'm get the DVE disk so i'll see what happens when i get that. Once again thankx :D

I'm just curious what "didn't work too well on mine" is about. Too Dark? too something? remember that after we've looked at it in torch mode for a while, that it may seem that it's too dark when it's just that we've become accustomed to the higher settings...

What was the result from the lower settings?

these are the settings i have on my dvd video input. I have the new toshiba hd-dvd 5970 hooked up with a hdmi.

brightness-30
contrast-35
color-16
tint-0
sharpness-25
color temp-warm
display-1080i
SVM-high

was watching spider-man 2 superbit and it was lookin pretty dern good
Had a friend over who notices flaws in pictures worse than i do and he even said it was lookin all pretty like.
I still am gonna get the DVE disk just to make sure. To answer your question on my tv everything was just seemed to unnatural.
Watched with same settings on my hd cable box and it to looks pretty good. I think the 34's settings are differant from the 30's because mine was just way to bright. Purhaps the # settings r diffrant. :cool:

hey coyboy how far up do your settings go 1-50 or 1-100? :cool:

1-100...

And try to think of the settings as a reference only.... a sliding scale if you will....
if you were adjusted brightness to 100 and still couldn't get it bright enough then the service menu would have to be adjusted to provide "room to move".....

the best example is- in my case - "tilt"... OOTB (out of the box) the set needed to go to like -7 tilt... however; when I went into the service menu and adjusted GMF to a different value to "center" or level picture position... my "tilt" in the user menu was able to go back to "0"... does "0" mean there was no tilt adjustment? Nope. just means that the "sliding scale" was re-adjusted and there is lots of "tilt" adjustment available in the user menu now.

From the settings that you've posted it's obvious that the set needed to be "toned" down from the "torch mode" it comes OOTB set at. You will probably find that after running the TV for a while that you will need to calibrate again as the set "burns in" for a while... Probably needing to adjust up....
Hope this helps...

Yes it did a lot thanks. my tv goes 1-50 so thats whe ei was running into the prob with the config. thanks for all the help :cool:

My refurb 34HF84 arrived yesterday (at least 10 days late) and is in wonderful working order. I have hooked in my SA 8300HD box with a HDMI cable and my Toshiba SD 3960SU ProScan DVD player with the el cheapo component cables that came with the STB. After an initial jolt when "Master and Commander" came up all in red (solved by setting the DVD player to component cable output), all I have had to do is adjust the "preference" settings to MUCH lower settings than OOTB (thanks, previous posters!), set the picture size to Widescreen 1 when I turn on the set, and fuhgeddaboutit. The cable box came set to 1080i and I keep the TV at 1080i. Everything is upgraded one way or another and except for some "abstract art" around the edges of some images on a very few channels, the picture is as crisp and clear as anything in the stores even in SD!

I have Cox cable in a smaller area in North Carolina, and I am amazed that they have all of their compatibility issues in hand (even though I can't access some of the HD stations promised--but I am getting all premium channels through the HD box unasked for, making it tough for me to complain and ask them to remedy the situation).

My two previous TV's were both Philips/Magnavox CRT's (21" and 27") and I was used to a blacker picture, to the point where "Master and Commander" required a pitch black room to make out details. The Toshiba has taken some getting used to, even though I probably could take it down some more. These settings give me a great range of channels without having to adjust from channel to channel:
Contrast 50 (came OOTB at 100!)
Brightness 40
Color 50
Tint r3
Sharpness 60

Like some previous posters, I am amazed at the 4:3 to Widescreen 1. I can't find distortion in most programs, even looking for it on things like scrolls across the bottom.

I got a great deal on this unit, but had to continually contact the seller to get status of shipping. The seller's customer service was great, very responsive to my emails, and they contacted the shipper who got the unit to me same day I expressed my frustration.

I am a very happy camper!
Jim

congrats bleudiable.... enjoy your set!!

Hello everyone-
I bought a Toshiba 30HFX84 TV about a month ago, and have been loving high definition. Unfortunately, my TV seems to black-out at certain points while watching DVD's. It's most common while watching scenes with flashing (ie explosions). It only happens on DVD's. It happens on both component inputs, and from multiple DVD sources (PS2, Toshiba DVD player). I've got all of my gear funneling through a Denon AVR-1705 receiver. I verified that the problem is with the TV by hooking my old TV up to the system. The problem went away. I'm wondering if anyone has seen this problem before. The discs that I play the most which exibit the problem are the seasons of Alias. The intro flashing graphics cause the picture to go black. When I tried it on my PS2, it seemed to be attempting to auto-switch the picture size. Thanks for any help!
jared

Greg Loewen just calibrated my Tosh 34HF84, WOW! MY GOD!!! I believed I had a nice sharp picture before. Forget it. You should see it now. I can't believe that it gets any better!

I finally got my 34HFX84 delivered today, just in time for the weeked! The set barely fits in my entertainment center. (less than 1/4 clearance!) I already had my SA8300 waiting so I plugged it in and... WOW! :eek: I can't believe I've waited this long to get HD. The picture is insane! I can't wait to see more HD!! Free Showtime preview this weekend on TWC, too!

The TV was manufactured in January 2005 according to the back of the set. The image seems flawless although I haven't had a chance to fully inspect it for bad geometry, convergence, etc. I did adjust the tilt a bit, and the contrast, other than that I haven't touched it.

My wife wasn't as happy with the TV. She said "That thing is hideous. I can't stand looking at it." ;)

My wife wasn't as happy with the TV. She said "That thing is hideous. I can't stand looking at it." ;)
Is she on the pipe? :eek: Surely you can't be serious....? Maybe she's serious but her name isn't Shirley.... :confused:

Give'r time... she's just gotta see one of her favourite shows in HD and then you'll be fighting to get the remote back... ;)

Congrats on the set...

I just got my DVE disk yesterday and popped it in to my hd dvd player via hdmi and calibrated with it and picture looks amazing now. I love this tv by far the best i have ever had. Also calibrated my 6.1 surround and it came out sounding amazing better than before which is hard to believe. I love my yv very much and thanks for everyone who helped walk me along i was beginning to think hd just wasn't worth it. AS soon as i put the disk in i realized just how oh so very very wrong i was. YYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!
I love HD
Xbox looks great
Cable looks great
Dvd looks great
And all sounding great With optical hook up.
Ilove ALLL OF IT YYEEEAHHH!!!!!!! :cool:

An HD DVD player? What brand/model?



Brian


I just got my DVE disk yesterday and popped it in to my hd dvd player via hdmi and calibrated with it and picture looks amazing now. I love this tv by far the best i have ever had. Also calibrated my 6.1 surround and it came out sounding amazing better than before which is hard to believe. I love my yv very much and thanks for everyone who helped walk me along i was beginning to think hd just wasn't worth it. AS soon as i put the disk in i realized just how oh so very very wrong i was. YYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!
I love HD
Xbox looks great
Cable looks great
Dvd looks great
And all sounding great With optical hook up.
Ilove ALLL OF IT YYEEEAHHH!!!!!!! :cool:

toshiba 5970 considering all the negative reviews it works pretty dern good for me. And i am quite the stickler when it comes to picture :cool:

toshiba 5970 considering all the negative reviews it works pretty dern good for me. And i am quite the stickler when it comes to picture :cool:

I just got my 34HFX84 and I've been researching the 5970. I have a question about this, or any other upconverting "HD DVD player".

According to the Toshiba HF84 and the HFX84 specs:

"CrystalScan HDSC™ upconverts all video signals (including 480i/p) to either 1080i HD on CRT based models or 720p on fixed pixel sets, resulting in a significant reduction in jagged line artifacts. Selectable 540p, for users who want to display a progressive scan image from a progressive scan source, is vailable via the on-screen menu."

As far as I can tell this is also the main advantage of an HD DVD player. So my question is if you have a HF84 or HFX84 will any other progressive scan DVD player look the same since the upconversion happend in the TV anyway? Or is the upconversion that happens in the DVD player better than the upconversion that the TV does?

The other obvious advantage of the 5970 is the HDMI output. Is this more of what makes it an "HD DVD player" rather than the upconversion?

Basically I'm wondering if the potentially unnecessary upconversion along and/or the HDMI output is worth the extra $$. I think the fact that this player actually includes an HDMI cable is a big plus.

It seems like there are a lot of bad reviews but I wonder if most of the bad reviews are from people who are using another brand of TV. The recall on the Toshiba customer service area for the 5960 sites other brand's HDMI interfaces as the culprit.

Having said all this I'll probably end up buying the 5970 anyway because of the HDMI output/cable. (I don't have any more component inputs available) But I was wondering if anyone had any insight on this stuff.

-Michael

Those people who ened up writing the bad reviews probably just expected it to be a perfect picture right out of the box, which it definitly isn't. I had to adjust the settings and calibrate my tv afterward. The end result is a great picture. I was very hesitant on purchasing this dvd player because of the bad reviews I read. One thing I have researched though is that most people that write reviews will be on something negative because there pissed off they have a bad product. I can say from my own experiance that I didn't go and write a positive review on the player, yet. I'll get to it when I want to, but I'll tell ya what if I got a bad product I would have been on that same day. If you read an earlier post of mine in this thread you'll see that I wasn't convinced of HDTV at first, but I was patient and the end result was BEAUTIFUL!!!!!! This player isn't HD quality but the PQ is better then 480p and the hdmi and price is pretty damn convenient. Hope this answered your questions. HIGH DEF ROCKSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!! :cool:

I gotta agree. I'm running a 34HF84 w/a Toshiba 5970. There is a lot of controversy as to whether or not upconversion can do anything for a non fixed pixel display. I'm not qualified to get into that. My PQ is tremendous! I should also state that I initially calibrated everything with an Avia disk. I was pretty happy. It was when Greg Loewen came over and calibrated my set proffesionally that he brought out the rich detail. I asked him if I should keep the deck. He said yes, unless I can upgrade to Dennon 2910 (about 700 bucks). It's not perfect. My complaints center around the remote. It took a while to get used to it and the deck isn't all that sensitive to commands. Somtimes gotta hit it twice. But what do u want for short money ($179 list w/cable thrown in) a rubber biscuit?

new to board - great source of info, very helpful.

New owner of 34HFX84 with SA8300HD DVR connected via HDMI cable.

Do other owners of this TV experience several second delays when switching between two different resolutions? For example, when changing channels between a 480i signal to a 1080i signal, the TV will breifly display the channel, then show a screen full of snow, then display the new signal. This process takes 2-3 seconds, and occurs on any format change, even 480i to 480p. Very frustrating when channel surfing. My neighbor has the same DVR with a Panny direct view, and his changes with one blip in the image, and in less than a second.

34HF84/DCT6412.
It happens with my setup too. It's just for a moment though and doesn't bother me.

I wonder. I have a HF84 with 8300 DVI and mone does not do that, but my cable company did not see fit to pay to have HDMI enabled so I am using component cables. I wonder if it is about HDMI?

I'm using component cables for both my DVD and DVR. However when I first got my TV I also got an HDMI DVD player and one of the reasons I took it back was the delay in operation over the HDMI. Perhaps there is an HDMI handshake when changing from SD to HD. Do you get a similar delay if the TV is set to 540p?

new to board - great source of info, very helpful.

New owner of 34HFX84 with SA8300HD DVR connected via HDMI cable.

Do other owners of this TV experience several second delays when switching between two different resolutions? For example, when changing channels between a 480i signal to a 1080i signal, the TV will breifly display the channel, then show a screen full of snow, then display the new signal.

I am running the same devices but using the component cables to connect them. I occationally notice a slight delay. Mine doesn't go to static though, just to the blank flat gray screen or an instant. Out of curiosity do you notice a significant difference between component and hdmi? I've been thinking about making the swich. Channel surfing has never quite been the same since digital cable came along. Remember when the channels used to switch instantly?

new to board - great source of info, very helpful.

New owner of 34HFX84 with SA8300HD DVR connected via HDMI cable.

Do other owners of this TV experience several second delays when switching between two different resolutions? For example, when changing channels between a 480i signal to a 1080i signal, the TV will breifly display the channel, then show a screen full of snow, then display the new signal. This process takes 2-3 seconds, and occurs on any format change, even 480i to 480p. Very frustrating when channel surfing. My neighbor has the same DVR with a Panny direct view, and his changes with one blip in the image, and in less than a second.
6208 to Toshiba via HDMI... no snow during switch... slight delay only, I was gonna suggest that it's that SA box but if there's a Moto 6412 with the same issue, don't know what to suggest... :confused:

hello all, I just bought the 34HFX84 last weekend and so far I'm very pleased with this tv. It was a perfect fit in my wall unit and the price was just right...1399.00. I compared this unit against the sony 34's and side by side there wasnt that much dif in PQ. but the price did stand out. and to top it off, this tv fit and the sony's didn't. kudos to toshiba. So far i only have digital cable from time warner, cant get HD until the 25th of this month. I run the cable into the TV first,then to the digital box then back to the tv. when watching basic channels, ie. 3 through 72 the PQ is better if run off the TV's tuner rather than the digital box. I have my DVD player hooked up with S-video because the other component is hooked up to my PS2. The PQ is ok not blown away by it. I was wondering if 1. i need a newer DVD player (mines a panasonic about 4 years old) or 2. use component cables instead of S-video. My HBO looks better then DVD. I have DVE on it's way maybe this will help with some of the settings on the TV. PQ out of the box sucked but after reading many many posts on here i played around with the hook-ups and color settings and it improved alot. Anyway just wanted to share my opionions with everyone. and by the way great forum....very informational to the untrained HD owner, me :D

I was wondering if 1. i need a newer DVD player (mines a panasonic about 4 years old) or 2. use component cables instead of S-video.

I got a Toshiba proscan DVD player for $70 (waiting for HD-DVD formats to shake out and DVD recorder prices to fall) and have been ecstatic about the PQ with cheap component cables. I think both of these changes would make you quite happy.

When you get your HD cable STB, spend the extra $ for an HDMI cable. Not only will your PQ be better (IMHO) but the digital sound to the TV's speakers makes a home theater sound (at least in my smallish viewing room) on digital and HD channels.

Glad someone tried routing the cable like you did (I have not yet, but was going to before the NCAA's next week so I can use POP for two hoops games). Did you try it both ways to see if there was any dropoff in PQ on digital channels with the extra draw of signal?

Enjoy!
Jim

Ok, to reduce the switching times between resolutions, this has proven to be my best solution. In the SA8300HD settings menu are output resolution options - 480i, 480p, 730p, and 1080i. Originally I had the STB set to recognize all formats and experienced the switching delays between formats. I deactivated all formats in the STB except for 1080i, and now (for example) changing between a 480p channel and a 1080i channel produces almost no delay.

This is what I am assuming is happening: all formats except 1080i are now being displayed in the native format of the TV (set to 1080i in the TV setup screen). I can't say there is any degradation of picture quality by doing this, and it has eliminated switching times between boilers.

On the component vs. HDMI cable questions raised - I do think the HDMI connection provides a better picture quality. I did spend $60 on a high quality cable. Sound isnt as much an issue as I'm running an optical from the STB to my receiver to produce surround when watching sports or movies with 5.1 signals from the STB.

time warner hd box doesnt have hdmi :( i bought a full set of monster thx 1000 cables for hd. just sucks having to wait 2 weeks. PQ didnt seem to drop at all. dont know if running it through the tv first is the same as using a splitter or not. last night finding nemo came on one of the movie channels and it looked fn awesome. but nemo always does :D and your right about using POP it so much better this way.

Yes, cobra, running thru the TV is just like using a splitter... but your should NOT run RG6 BACK from the STB to the TV again. You only need the HD Component or DVI to view the STB output. The coax OUT of the STB is only downconverted SDTV of the current channel viewed.

The long delay on switching formats can be worked around by having your STB output only the native res of the TV, instead of 'pass thru'.

Hey Guys to answer my own question a few posts back my current settings are
Bright-28
Con-47
Color-18
Tint--8
Sharpness-25
SVM-high
Temp-medium
I calibrated this with my DVE and these are the best to my knowledge the best i could get the settings.
Once agian i own a 30HFX84 and loving every second of it.

I'm surprised you have SVM as high - most reviewers say that that is the first thing to be turned off!!!

amen to that. SVM is a phony edge sharpener. A lot of ISF techs permanatly disable it during cakibration

Ya knopw what you guys were right my pic looks better with it either turned to low or off. The focus of the pic was the only prob i had with the disk. I couldn't get it exactly where i wan't it. Of couse i go back and forth with this all day.LOL :cool:

ok i have searched through the forum but cant find a code to program my remote. my tv is the 34hfx84 and my box is a SA8000DH. remote is AT8400. the codes in the user manual dont work. is there new codes for this tv?

I recieved my 34hfx84 a little less than a month ago and for the most part I have been very pleased with it's performance. Unfortunately I have recently noticed a slight imperfection in the color. Near the lower left-hand corner (on the bottom of the screen and about 4" from the left edge) there is a discolored area about the size of a hand. During most programming the discoloration is barely noticeable. It is most noticeable at night and/or on the grey screen that comes up when my cable box switches modes. It is visible on all of the 4 inputs I have going into the set. I have tried moving my speakers away from the set and my subwoofer is about 6 feet away so I don't think it is magnetic interference.
I'm wondering; if anyone else has spots like this, if this is normal or common for HDTV CRTs, if this problem is correctable, and most importantly if this is a good reason to return it and see if another set has the same problem. Any info/help would be great, thanks!

I have a 34HF84. It hasn't happened to me. I understand that u moved speakers away, but it sounds like TV's deguasing system not working.

The delay is due to the TV resyncing to the output from the cable box... You have your cable box set to pass through the actual resolution of the program rather than upconverting to 1080i.
I have my 30HF84 connected via HDMI, and the SA8300HD set to 1080i only (use the "Easy" setup on the cable box); there's little/no lag when switching channels. I prefer this mode to passing through the actual resolution; the 408i picture is about 2" wider, and I can set the side bars to be black rather than gray.


Brian

new to board - great source of info, very helpful.

New owner of 34HFX84 with SA8300HD DVR connected via HDMI cable.

Do other owners of this TV experience several second delays when switching between two different resolutions? For example, when changing channels between a 480i signal to a 1080i signal, the TV will breifly display the channel, then show a screen full of snow, then display the new signal. This process takes 2-3 seconds, and occurs on any format change, even 480i to 480p. Very frustrating when channel surfing. My neighbor has the same DVR with a Panny direct view, and his changes with one blip in the image, and in less than a second.

The delay is due to the TV resyncing to the output from the cable box... You have your cable box set to pass through the actual resolution of the program rather than upconverting to 1080i.
I have my 30HF84 connected via HDMI, and the SA8300HD set to 1080i only (use the "Easy" setup on the cable box); there's little/no lag when switching channels. I prefer this mode to passing through the actual resolution; the 408i picture is about 2" wider, and I can set the side bars to be black rather than gray.

I agree, Brian. I have the exact same setup, except a 34HF84. The upgrade in resolution from the STB is fine and, IMHO, any minimal resolution problems are offset by the ability to channel surf without delay. I was channel surfing NCAA hoops last night and had a digital signal for all four games in four channels in succession (WRAL, CBS in Raleigh, you totally rock!) on my cable system. Two were broadcast in HD, but moving to the WRAL HD channel on another tier for the available HD broadcast resulted in minimal improvement (CBS's--or WRAL's--HD signal did not fill my screen any more than the digital signal) at best. Just for kicks, I went down to standard cable for the analog signal and that picture was smaller and I felt like I needed glasses, the resolution was so poor. And I've been living with that signal since the inception of cable!

It is interesting that the grey bars of the Toshiba do not appear when the signal is digital rather than analog--I get the smaller black bars. I have never adjusted my STB, it came OOTB set for 1080i. So I just put the picture size on Theaterwide 1 to fill up the whole screen (still able to read the update bars both top and bottom), and kept on clicking along my four digital channels of hoops (interesting we still use this term even thought remotes haven't clicked in 20 years or more).

Jim

I've had mine for just a week and it is great.

My tilt needed to be set -6 ootb. Also, I've noticed people comparing video adjustment limits. I've read at AVSforums that the 34" is the only set made by Toshiba. The 30" and lower are made by Orion in Taiwan for Toshiba.

Also mine barely fit in the cabinet at home but looks just fine.

I couldn't find the 34" in Houston, unfortunately... Space is pretty tight (which is what led me to the Toshibas in the first place), though; the 34" might not have worked...

I did more testing last night; I couldn't tell any difference in analog pictures between letting the 8300HD do the conversion and letting the TV do it. So it's back to the 8300; works great, and fast switching. No hoops or clicks here, though. ;-)

Now for a progressive scan DVD player...


I agree, Brian. I have the exact same setup, except a 34HF84. The upgrade in resolution from the STB is fine and, IMHO, any minimal resolution problems are offset by the ability to channel surf without delay. I was channel surfing NCAA hoops last night and had a digital signal for all four games in four channels in succession (WRAL, CBS in Raleigh, you totally rock!) on my cable system. Two were broadcast in HD, but moving to the WRAL HD channel on another tier for the available HD broadcast resulted in minimal improvement (CBS's--or WRAL's--HD signal did not fill my screen any more than the digital signal) at best. Just for kicks, I went down to standard cable for the analog signal and that picture was smaller and I felt like I needed glasses, the resolution was so poor. And I've been living with that signal since the inception of cable!

It is interesting that the grey bars of the Toshiba do not appear when the signal is digital rather than analog--I get the smaller black bars. I have never adjusted my STB, it came OOTB set for 1080i. So I just put the picture size on Theaterwide 1 to fill up the whole screen (still able to read the update bars both top and bottom), and kept on clicking along my four digital channels of hoops (interesting we still use this term even thought remotes haven't clicked in 20 years or more).

Jim ;)

Brian,
As for dvd player, I am running a Toshiba 5970 and am very satisfied w/PQ. With that said, if I had it to do over again, I'm told that the Dennon 1910 (250 bucks) works great with Tosh 34HF. Both decks can be run HDMI. I do notice a significant difference tween HDMI and Componnent. HDMI much more detailed. For straight progressive, commponnent, I'm told that Harmon Kardon 22 (about 200 bucks) is unreal

Got frustrated with HDMI tonight... Watched a DVD (Incredibles) with the kids then wanted to go to a recording in progress on the Moto 6208 (Kill Bill Vol 2). Everything recording fine off of MCHD but when I switched inputs to the HDMI in on the set... well, handshake protocol says that the STB has to be "off" first. All we got was black screen. Powered off the TV. disconnected the DVI/HDMI and fired it in the bush... connected components and watched Kill Bill from the beginning. When we go to the part where I tried to turn on the set the first time... little glitch in the recording... Oh well.... prefer the output of HDMI but, little things like this sorta piss me off at 10:00 at night when you don't want to be crawling around in the dark behind the set... Don't know if I'll go back to the HDMI or not... dam-it-anyways....

First time I've run into a headache like this with the HDCP handshake thing... normally you can just shut down and turn back on but in the middle of a recording that you don't want to screw up, you're kinda hooped....

HDCOWBOY,
Good to hear from you again. I'm a little dense. Been putting in about 90 hrs. a week, school, work, study etc. Help me to understand, You are usiong both HDMI ports. One DVD, other cable TV right?
I have never had problem. SC8300, 34HF84, recording, switching, etc. BUT, I have HDMI to DVD and commponnent to cable/DVR. I power up and down as I please. Is that what is going on, HDMIvs. HDMI?

I have had my HF for a couple of months now and am generally delighted - especially now that I have Comcast HD. I am still learning aspects about the set and recently discovered a few facts which are not clearly explained in the manual:-
Each input has four picture settings, three of which are factory set (Sports, Standard & Movie) and the fourth, Preferences, can be adjusted and saved. If you try adjusting any of the factory set modes it will merely save it as Preferences, overriding any previous settings. However, you can save different Preferences for different inputs - so you can set up your DVD input mode to be different to your HD input - this is useful as I find I need a somewhat brighter picture for HD than for DVD. Try these settings before you go to the expense of a calibration disc (these I stole from another bulletin board)
Contrast = 65
Brightness = 36
Color = 37
Sharpness = 22 (or less)
Tint = R1
Color Temp = Medium
The factory settings, particularly Standard, are quite good for some SD cable stations but the sharpness is too high on all of them and tends to give a grainy look. I use the above settings for my DVD input but boost the Brightness and Color a little for HD (this is a bit of a compromise between the HD and SD stations as I don't want to have to change the settings each time I change stations! By the way I use the component inputs and have not yet tried my Comcast DVR DVI. Also, I can't see any picture difference between the the 520P and 1080I setting (for DVDs) so leave it on the latter.
By the way - when you have settings you are happy with make a note of them as for some reason it is all too easy to accidentally save one of the factory settings as your preferences when playing with the menus!
Further to the above post of mine a while ago, I have just used the Digital Video Essentials disc to check the user settings - my conclusion is that they are perfectly ok as set by someone else on their set! This, admittedly small sample, suggests to me that Toshiba, and probably most other quality tv manufacturers, produce their sets with a reasonable level of consistency. This would make sense as the 'Vivid' mode used to display sets in stores would need to be consistent. A later than the above post of mine also recommended making the adjustments from the 'Movie' setting to minimise SVM (which is not switcheable on the HF, only the HFX) - sure enough the test pattern on the disc showed SVM to be minimum on the Movie setting! So, have I wasted money buying DVE, I don't think so. The only problem that my untrained eyes saw on the test patterns was that the picture is about half an inch off center to the right - I think I can live with that as it still fills the screen due to the overscan!!!

To anyone who owns this set - what is the actual width of the base of this set (just the part that sits on the TV stand - not the width of the whole tv) ?

Width of base in contact with the table or stand is a shade under 30".

Thanks for the measurement !

HDCOWBOY,
Good to hear from you again. I'm a little dense. Been putting in about 90 hrs. a week, school, work, study etc. Help me to understand, You are usiong both HDMI ports. One DVD, other cable TV right?
I have never had problem. SC8300, 34HF84, recording, switching, etc. BUT, I have HDMI to DVD and commponnent to cable/DVR. I power up and down as I please. Is that what is going on, HDMIvs. HDMI?
Thanks. busy dealing with an ex-wife, court issues, lawyers... no justice for half-time dads... anyhow.... on the input issue....

Nope, just one HDMI for the Moto 6208 (cable fed)...

To clarify, I watched a DVD (Incredibles) via component from JVC, with the Moto box "off".

-Moto was set to record Kill Bill off cable. It came on and started to record...
-Changed inputs from DVD (after the Incredibles) and went to watch Kill Bill on the HDMI input.
-Because the TV didn't send the handshake first to the Moto Box, the HDCP prevented viewing.
-NOT wanting to interrupt recording, I had to change the HDMI cable out and put component cables back in.

All that to get around the HDCP issue... man what a pain. In the dark, flashlight broken.... girlfriend telling me what a great TV, CABLE, DVD, HT setup you got there Cowboy... and one P.O'd Cowboy.... with no gun... better that way, I didn't really want to shoot the TV any how... Just the guy that thought we needed HDCP.... :mad:

Sorry to hear about your 90 hr weeks, where do you find time for the Tv?

That's it. I don't have time for any social life at all now. What little time I have-I only have time and energy for TV

I had the first night at home alone with the Tosh to play with the DVD settings last night. I put in Seabiscuit and got the warm sepia just right while blinking back sentimental tears :crying: (so sue me), and then put in Spiderman to get the bright comic book colors and movement. I found that, unlike watching IMAX on INHD, these movies looked better on the 540p and "Film" settings, and that the colors were truer to the theater (or my memory of the theater) when I set the "temperature" to "Warm" (which I hate for regular TV). Does this jibe with other users' experiences? I bow to your collective wisdom. :bowdown:

And no, I don't have a DVE disk. I'm conflicted about whether I should use a disk or just play with the settings until I like what I see (which changes with the vastly different programming I receive from channel to channel). Wouldn't the DVE disk inherently work only for DVD, or am I missing something? :confused:

Jim

Jim - look back at my last post in this thread - try the same settings (I believe you have the HF same as me) so set them from the Movie settings to become your Preference setting (in order to minimise SVM). These are for DVD/Component input. For cable/DVR I increase the brightness a bit. I use basically the same settings for a VHS/Composite input and get a very good picture from good quality tapes.

I recently was using the internal speakers to test them out and the right speaker didn't take long to generate a vibration (it seems to be blown). Has anyone heard of this as being a common problem with the 30HF84?

Hi Guys. I just bought the 30HFX84 and just getting started. I ordered Dish Net, coming soon, and I am overwhelmed with the complexities of HD. I have read a lot here and am learning.. Later

I just got my Toshiba 30HFX84 yesterday and I love it. I do have one major complaint and thats the Component 1 input I have my DVD player plugged in defaults to 4:3 every single time I go to it. I have set it to FULL every time and sometimes it will stay or flip back and forth when changing from the menu to the movie part of the disc. Does anyone else have this problem or heard of it? Why, on an HD TV is 4:3 the default? Is there a way to make FULL default?

One other thing is, I notice that the screen is off centered when I loaded my calibration disc using the Crosshatch pattern. I have done some minor claibration in Service Menus on TVs before but I cant track down the correct way to get into this set's Most I have seen it says press mute and press Menu on the front panel. My 30HFX84 does not have the Menu button on the front panel. Does anyone any idea on the correct way to get into the service menu for this set....minus the Menu button on the front panel of the TV?

Thanks for any help/ideas on these issues!

:yippee: Excellent tv man. :yippee: I have the same I also have the same issues as well, Such as the geometry from left to right but only on certain dvds. To answer the question about the 4:3 that could either be a dvd player issue, make sure your player is set to 16:9. Also you can change the aspect by the pic size button on the remote. I can't find anywhere about service menu for this either. The closest i got was the closest you got, I know just where you got that info. Anyway hope this helps you out a little and most definitly enjoy the tv. I have mine set up with a SD-5970 hdmi dvd player, xbox with high def pak, and a JVC 6.1 surround sound receiver. All connected with optical sound and best video i can get out of it. :cool: Xbox also looks amazing on this TV.Hope you enjoy, man. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the adivice, but I figured out what it was. There is a setting called "Aspect" under Setup in the menus. When turned ON, it automatically sizes the screen depending on the signal it *thinks* its getting. I turned this OFF and viloa, problem sovled, no more switching back and forth.

I really want to get in that Service Menu, if I could properly center the pic, this TV would be 100%, but right now its around 95% hehe. Anyone, if you know of the Service Menu access for Toshiba 30HFX84 WITHOUT a Menu button on the front control panel, please let me know!

I believe its the same as the 30HF84. Try this:

Set the volume to minimum.
Press both the Volume Down button on the front panel and the numer 9 button on the remote for more than 2 seconds. That will put you in the Electrical Adjustment menu.
Channel up/down button will change menu items,
Volume up/down button will change settings for the items.
Press Menu button to end.

Write down all values before changing anything. Also there are a number of fixed values (on the 30hf84, don't know if the same for the 30hfx84). Out of 60 menu items the following should not be changed. They are menu item number:
03,07,08,09,10,12,13,14,19,20,21,22,23,39,40,41,42 ,44,45,46,47,48,50,51,54,55,56.

You may want to pick up the service manual. I think you can find it on ebay for about 10 bucks.

Thanks for the tip on ebay. I just went ahead and ordered one for myself. Its alot better than paying 300-350 for someone to come and work for 1/2 an hour. :yippee: YYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH :yippee:

Thanks, that got me into the service menu alright....but you listed some menu number to not change?? I checked those out and mostly it was vertical movement, any real reason they shouldnt be adjusted?

So I had a chance to play with some of the settings in the Service Menu...but forgot to write down the factory settings for my Toshiba 30HFX84 set....UGH to say the least. :eek: Although the picture looks fine still, what I was trying to achieve I couldnt so I want to put it back to factory. Can anyone with a Toshiba 30HFX84 access their service menu and give me what they see as the default from the factory? Of course if you made any adjustments that wont help. I admit I was stupid to do this but I was so anxious to try things and I was in a hurry, eh well yea hehe.

So if anyone out there can get me the factory settings for the service menu for items 2-25 I would appreciate it much!

Were you in Component input mode (Colorstream) when you made the changes? Check the settings for RF, AV and HDMI. You will see the fixed value settings as well as the other settings are just about the same or close across all inputs.

Copy the settings from the HDMI input to get you back to where you were.

So those settings you see in the manual...I assume they are factory default for this set? Or, could I access another input and just copy the settings from that...the only changes I made were to Component 1. That sounds like what youre saying, can you confirm this for me?

Guess we are both posting at the same time. See what I said above.

Yea, I was in the Colorstream Component 1 Input when I amde these changes. Awesome man, thanks for the heads up, I didnt even think about that. Ill give it a try and let you know the outcome.

Well, I tried as you suggested and copy the settings of the other inputs (hdmi, AV, etc) and they are all the same, so I cant find the orginal factory defaults. Does that service manual list these? Can you look at your set and see what your default settings are? I would really appreciate any ideas.

:hithere: Hey man just give me your e-mail and i'll send you the service menu packet. :thumbsup:

:bowdown: Cool man thanks....I sent you a private message, check your Inbox.

Anyone heard anything on the Toshiba 30hf85 (also comes in the 34 and 26 sizes - but I am interested in the 30)? Is this an upgrade from the 30hf84 - potentially fixing the geometry issues???

Found at BestBuy for $799.99

Thanks

The 85 series are the 2005 models. I have no idea if they are better or not.

Thanks, good post.

I just wish they my decision would become easier instead of harder everytime I read these things. :banghead:

Hello, I was wondering if someone can help me here. I have the Xbox hd colorstream cables and the Toshiba widescreen TV. the TV has 5 jacks 3 on one side I assume is video labeled Y, PB and PR. The Xbox Cables have Y, CB and CR. I assume I hook up the Y to Y and PB to CB and PR to CR. The other 2 Audio cables are color coded. Red and Blue on the Xbox Cable and left and right on TV. I thought the Red was right and white was left. Anyway I get the audio fine but no Video. the weird part is I just moved and before everything worked fine. Thing is I forget what was hooked up to where so Im assuming the above config is correct. Any suggestions? I am wondering if I damaged something in move or if there is a switch or setup I need to do to make the HD colorstream work. Anyway, any advise is very much appreciated. thanks very much.

Just purchased the HFX84 :D (just in time for the 85's :rolleyes: )

Read through most of this thread (simply amazing -- didn't know it existed) and didn't see anything on hooking up a PC to the HDMI port. As of 3 A.M. last night, my experience has been so frustrating that I think I may abort that mission. I've had great difficulty producing a reasonable picture even using Powerstrip to set the recommended PC driver settings (wavy screens, black screens, etc.).

Can anyone point me to a good source on this subject (hopefully specific to the HFX84 or a close cousin)?

Thanks!

Make sure you're setting 1280 x 720 mode with ONLY a 60 Hz refresh.

:D If anyone has the service manuel for the 30hfx84 could you please send it to me possibly in pdf format. I bought it off ebay through e-mail and have already used it to calibrate my tv. i only had it on my laptop, and one of my windows files became currupt and I had to reformat. So the meaning of the story is I'm gonna back :banghead: ALL :banghead: of my stuff from now on. if anyone could help me out I would be much appreciative. :bowdown: Thanks In Advance :bowdown:

Yelnoc, don't know if HFX84 has the same reqs as the HF84, but in my 30HF84 user manual, it states to "never connect this tv to a personal computer. This TV is not intended for use with a PC"

Again, I'm not sure if HFX84 has the same req.

The only difference I noticed with the 'X' model is a second HDMI port...

The 'no PC use' is because they don't want to support such use, they haven't made any accomodations for such use (like overscan adjust), and static PC images have high burn in potential.

What's up with the Tosh 30" set. I looked in to getting one but the display unit at Best Buy is showcasing a unit that has the picture in 4:3 mode. Ok that's fine. But the left side is clearly bending towards the center. The right side is bowing towards the right . I noticed a similiar issue on their 26" display unit. I've read nothing but negative comments and so called "geometry" issues. I had my heart set on buying this set but after seeing for myself these issues I would be taking a gamble if I bought one. It's terrible that B.B. had this unit for 759.00 and now this week they jacked it to 999.00! It's 799.00 at Conns right now. That 30" set would be excellent if these issues didn't exist. Thinking about getting a Sanyo 30" now.

RSawdey, based on your statement, outside of the burnin for static images, Toshiba's statement to not connect to a PC is not so much that it can damage the TV but more related to their lack of support for that functionality?

:D Please anyone with the manuel!? :D

It's possible to damage a TV by giving it continued signals out of processing range. A TV is NOT a multisync monitor & won't usually support any formats except the standard TV formats. There are exceptions to this, for the so called multimedia TVs from Samsung & Panasonic... they offer some support for general PC use, with support of standard PC formats, VGA inputs, and overscan adjustments. It's important to discontinue any signal that won't sync or gives a scrambled display as soon as possible.

With a non-multimedia PC, not recommended for PC use, you can probably use some of the 18 ATSC formats, like 848 x 480p (EDTV) and 1920 x 1080i or 960 x 540p.

Ok guys I finished my HDTV shopping today and I will be picking up my Toshiba 30HF84 on Friday from Conns. They had this set at 759.00 and the showroom model looked excellent. I have heard good things and bad things about this model, but I'm going to risk it. I've done more research on this set than any other 30"rs out there. I will get the extended warranty later on in 30 days. It was a toss up between this set and the Sony 30" Conns was selling. The Sony would look overpowering in my entertainment center. To much plastic. Plus I can put my Bose center channel on top of the Tosh. I expect great things from this set. One ? though, can this Tosh play Xbox games at 480p or will it upconvert them?

Good choice on the Toshiba... smaller footprint great picture and save much over the Sony... have had mine since Sept 04 and it's great... the factory color settings, however, totally suck... try the following (based on eye and the AVIA setup disk)

Brightness.......28 (change to 21 for live broadcasts and ESPN studio)
Contrast.........30
Color..............10 to 12.. depending on your taste and channel
Tint............ ..-11 (balance skin tones; but +/- point or so is good)
Sharpness.......25

If you use these setting in the manual mode you will never need
to use the factory settings... keep the other settings like SVM at OFF and run the overall color balance at WARM or OFF...

the Toshiba manual is pretty good start so read that as a good guide through the setup...

best of luck

GEO / chicago :cool:

I picked up my first HDTV at Conns. It's the 30HF84. I've been testing it out with various components. All and all I'm very satisfied. However, when I played the THX Optimizer from Star Wars Episode 1 the test with the circle and rectangular boxes clearly shows the the box to far to the left. It's only about three or four degrees off. Is there SOME WAY I can manually adjust that? This would be a big help because I don't really want to return it.

DISAPPOINTED! I've returned the 30" Tosh due to a very grainy picture. I spent hours to get make the picture look like my old Sony Wega but failed. Picture was to red and grainy in sat., xbox, JVC dvd player, and Time Warner HD. It came close to looking good but it didn't match what Sony could offer. Returned the set to Conns and took a Sony 30" set instead.

Hi xcitor

What's service manual? if it is owner's manual, you can go the web site below to download it:

http://www.toshiba.ca/web/pdf/34HFX84.pdf

Service manual is for repair techs & has all technical details...

Does anyone have the service manuel for the tv? I would really like it if they do. Thanks :D

Does anyone have the factory settings for items 2-25 in the service menu for the Toshiba 30HFX84? I think I have them set back to what they should be but just want to make sure. Thanks!

nowdsa Does anyone have the factory settings for items 2-25 in the service menu for the Toshiba 30HFX84? I think I have them set back to what they should be but just want to make sure. Thanks!

xcitor Does anyone have the service manuel for the tv? I would really like it if they do. Thanks
:hithere: :)

Gentlemen,

I am at work currently, but I will send the required info in the AM.
xcitor...do you want it sent via email? Its in .pdf. :yippee: :yippee:

Does anyone have the factory settings for items 2-25 in the service menu for the Toshiba 30HFX84? I think I have them set back to what they should be but just want to make sure. Thanks!

:cool:
These are common for all four inputs
03 1
07 4
08 3
09 31
10 0
12 0
13 2
14 30
19 16
20 21
21 8
22 8
23 128

02,04,05,06,11,15,16,17,18,24,25 Are not listed for fixed values. They vary according to each set.

Hope this helps.

Anyone know if the service menu codes are the same in the 84 (the 30HF, in particular) as they are on the 85? I've got some red push/blooming/bleeding going on with my 30HF85 and I'd really like to minimize it.

Check this out bud.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=11072&item=5772604097&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

Does anybody have a copy of that 30HF85 manual that they wouldn't mind sending me?

I just got a used Toshiba 26HF84 today and when I tried hooking up my DVD player to the colorstream hd 1 with the red green and blue cords, I got no picture/sound, nothing! Tried hd 2, another dvd player and still nothing... I thought it may be the cables, so I tried it in video 2 input and picture showed! What am I doing wrong?? Please help, thanks!!

I think you will need to be a bit more specific about what you did to make it work. Correct me if I am wrong on my assumptions....

1. You connected a DVD player to the Colorstream HD 1 input with component cables (red, green and blue) and selected that input on the tv remote - this should give picture but no sound as sound requires the additional two red and white cables.
2. You tried a different DVD player into HD2 using the same cables - and selected the appropriate tv input - still no picture.
3. You then used a yellow composite video cabel (and possibly the red and white audio cables) from the DVD player to the Video 2 input and again selected the appropriate tv input and got sound and picture.

A basic question - sorry if it is too basic but... do the two DVD players have component outputs and if so are they switcheable?

thanks for replying! if you are asking if the dvd players have the red blue and green holes to put the coordinating plugs in, yes they do... and yes, i did every combination of both hd inputs and dvd players with the red blue and green cord and still no picture/sound... oh, and thanks for the sound pointer... I probably sound like an idiot to you pros, lol!

as for them being switchable, i'm not sure what you mean, but there is a video out switch in the back of one of the dvd players and it is set towards the s-video/component/video output side as opposed to 'digital out' side, whatever that is.

i'm hoping it's not defective... has anyone ran into this problem? i think i'm doing something wrong... i'm going to buy a new dvd player, and hopefully that will work... any suggestions?

Perhaps if you give us the DVD make model numbers somebody may have the same type and be able to help.

A silly question but have you definitely selected the HD1 input on the Toshiba tv remote so that it tells you on the screen for a few seconds which input is selected?

Do you have an antenna and/or cable box connected? Do they work ok?

first dvd player was an audiologic dvd/home theater system (piece of crap!), then i tried a pioneer dv-333... yes, i made sure it was on hd1 when i checked.. checked all of them, actually... i also have direct tv connected to video input 1... thanks for you troubles!!

I cannot imagine what the problem is unless the component cables are bad - unlikely, even if one was bad you would still get a picture but without that color element! It is fundamental but make sure the cables are pushed fully home.

On many DVD players, the setup defaults to Composite out & you must change menu settings to enable component. Also, many component inputs don't accept 480i, so you must be sure progressive scan is enabled. You also need to configure for a widescreen display, so anamorphic discs will work right.

So, hookup Component cables (RGB tips) and a stereo audio pair to your TV (or digital to your amp for surround)... AND a composite video cable so you can always see the menu. Switch to the composite input. Setup the player as described. Then switch over to the Component input. Once setup, you could ditch the composite video.

Hello all- yet another new guy here. I recently purchased a 34HF84 from Best Buy and am anxiously awaiting its arrival. Hell, I was excited about it before I read the 19 pages of this thread! When I ordered the set for $1299, I received the Toshiba SD-5980 upconverting DVD Player free. I also ended up w/ free shipping on the set, so I picked up the DVD unit in-store to save a few bucks. Plus, I've just finished the room- rear surrounds are wired into the walls, the carpet is freshly laid, and I'm picking up the furniture tomorrow. There's only one problem- the TV won't be here until the 15th!! Now so far everything's hooked up but with a 20" JVC standard set just sittin' there lookin' big...

*shaking like some sort of crackhead*

I just called Comcast and scheduled an HD addon/install for that same day(but as late as possible just in case the delivery service is late). I wanna experience EVERYTHING in that one day, then enjoy it forever...

Hope you ordered a DVR - if you did make sure they bring you a Dual Tuner unit. If you didn't you made a mistake! They are fantastic!!!

Comcast only supply Component Cables - your DVD probably came with a free HDMI cable - you might want to get a DVI to HDMI converter so you can try the STB hooked up to the tv with that - personally though I have mine with Components (as supplied)and it looks just fine. DVI does not support audio so you will need some red and white standard audio (phono) cables - unless you intend to use the optical or digital co-ax to your receiver.

When you get your tv rough set the picture settings as follows(starting in the Movie menu to reduce SVM):-
Contrast = 65
Brightness = 36
Color = 37
Sharpness = 22 (or less)
Tint = R1
Color Temp = Medium
You might find that you need to increase the brightness for some SD stations to about 50 to 55.

I bought a 26HF84A at BestBuy last tuesday for $450 and I'm loving the set.

I bought a 26HF84A at BestBuy last tuesday for $450 and I'm loving the set.

Best Buy is a really great place. I really could use one of everything that they sell. Actually, according to my wife, I'm not allowed inside unchapparoned- that's why I went to BB.com...


Hope you ordered a DVR - if you did make sure they bring you a Dual Tuner unit. If you didn't you made a mistake! They are fantastic!!!

Comcast only supply Component Cables - your DVD probably came with a free HDMI cable - you might want to get a DVI to HDMI converter so you can try the STB hooked up to the tv with that - personally though I have mine with Components (as supplied)and it looks just fine. DVI does not support audio so you will need some red and white standard audio (phono) cables - unless you intend to use the optical or digital co-ax to your receiver.

When you get your tv rough set the picture settings as follows(starting in the Movie menu to reduce SVM):

Well, I'm gonna be running the DVD Player HDMI, so I'm guessing I'll have the STB connected by RBG's. How does it work for ya? And does the dual tuner unit cost more for box rental or for the service fee each month? The lady told me yesterday that it was $5.99 for STB rental and $9.95 for the DVR fee. The biggest reason I'll be running components for it is because I grabbed the Pelican System Selector Pro to switch all of my new HD goodies. Boy, is that thing sweet. My PS2 components arrived yesterday and the Gamecube ones should be here soon. I just have to buy a few more optical cables and I think I'm set...

Now the Movie menu- does have to do with that "3:2 pulldown" setting? If so, what does it do? I thought I read somewhere here that the SVM setting was only adjustible on the HFX. I downloaded the .pdf manual and I guess it's harder to figure stuff out when you don't have the set in front of you to monkey with...

http://www.hometheatermag.com/directviewandplasmatvs/105toshiba/
Read this for better understanding. Also, believe me, once you've had a DVR there is no going back!

That was a really nice review article and I kinda understand a bit better. I just need to get this thing NOW. The suspense is killing me. Every night when I go to bed, I have visions of high def sugarplums dancing in my head...

And also, I happened to see a Comcast tech on the street today and he told me that all they use anymore are the Motorola Dual Tuner HD DVR's now, so I think I'll be ok. I might end up calling just to make sure anyway...

When you get your Moto 6412 you will find this page usefull
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorola_6412
The 30 second forward skip is very effective; and the Mute hack.
Make sure the tech leaves you the correct remote that has a 'SWAP' button on the lowest row of four buttons. This allows you to switch tuners while recording - very usefull especially when recording on both channels. Incidentally you can watch an earlier recording while both channels are recording - these things are fantastic!!!!

Have any of you had experiences with the PS2 and/or Gamecube on this set? Both of my components for each arrived the other day, and I'm just antsy as to what to expect...

gt4 looks awesome just because it's got 1080i cap.
nascar 2005 is ok
p.s.
34hfx84
ps2 with component

Well, today(the 13th of June to be exact), my hopes were shattered completely by the evil behemoth known as Best Buy. Two days before my brand new HDTV was to be delivered, I get an email saying my order has been cancelled. I was like "what!!??" So, I called the customer service number provided and found that after 25 days of waiting, the warehouse had no more units and the order could not be filled. After cursing the girl out and demanding to speak to a manager, I told the guy that they either take back the opened and used DVD player or I'm keeping it for free. Well, he finally agreed for me to return it to the store(which I did tonight) and I got my money back. I then used BB's direct line to the webstore customer service and found that the rest of my cash was credited to me this morining. Now I just have to do more research and call Comcast to cancel the service call...

Well, today(the 13th of June to be exact), my hopes were shattered completely by the evil behemoth known as Best Buy. Two days before my brand new HDTV was to be delivered, I get an email saying my order has been cancelled. I was like "what!!??" So, I called the customer service number provided and found that after 25 days of waiting, the warehouse had no more units and the order could not be filled. After cursing the girl out and demanding to speak to a manager, I told the guy that they either take back the opened and used DVD player or I'm keeping it for free. Well, he finally agreed for me to return it to the store(which I did tonight) and I got my money back. I then used BB's direct line to the webstore customer service and found that the rest of my cash was credited to me this morining. Now I just have to do more research and call Comcast to cancel the service call...

Do you mean the 13th of July? :eek: :confused:

Hahahaha yeah- I'm so mad I couldn't even get that right... LOL

well you can get one from crutchfield.com for 1399 with free in home delivery
tv (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-yx3n1ci93I2/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=148350&I=05234HF84)

I think I'm going to go with the 34HF85- it's $100 cheaper than the 84 from Best Buy- Sears actually has them and wouldn't cancel my order... lol

Does the 30HFX84 upconvert like a DVD player does? Or do I need a DVD player that does it.?

I have a Yamaha 5 disc player and don't want to buy anything till the HD DVD or BRs come out.

Thanks, Bob

You can view at 540p or 1080i - the general consensus is that an upconverting player will not give you any significant benefit

i have the oppo dvd player and i say yes it's better than a progressive scan player looks better then my $140 panisonic player. oh yeah my tv is the 34hfx84.
for 200 bucks you cant beat it

I guess I have a lot to learn!!

Unbelievable! I just happened to go to my local Rex Electronics store on my lunch today, and saw the 34HF84 on display. The salesman explained that the display model was the last one left. The tag read $1199 and he told me that there was a $100 discount for open stock. Then he said that today was the last day of a sale which knocked off another $100. If that isn't great enough, he called a store in NY and found that they had 4 unopened ones in stock and would give me the same price! He said they had a truck driver doing a favor this week, running to that store and it would be in on Thursday! So, for $999 plus $9.95 for a 21 month manufacturer's extension agreement and tax, my final bill was $1070! And no more worries of the so-called "Orioshiba"!!!

That's fantastic - you will be delighted!!! That is a really good deal.

ja2935- Are you running your ColorStream Inputs at 540p or 1080i? Is there really any noticible difference between the two? I was just wondering if there was any differences between inputs(DVD's, video games, etc.)...

I am currently running my STB and DVD with Components and Optical to my receiver then Components to the TV - I can switch between 540p and 1080i but cannot see any difference. I thought 540p might be better for SD but any difference isn't noticeable. Therefore I always leave it at 1080i. I set up the tv with the DVE disc which resulted in the Brightness at 37 but have it set at 50 for cable (SD and most HD) - because I am only using the single input I have to reduce Brightness for DVD viewing.

I'm still not sure what I'm gonna do yet- now that I'm not getting the HDMI DVD player, that input is free. I really don't wanna spend the cash on a DVI-to-HDMI cable(the wife's about had it with me as it is). Whichever way I go there, I'm still gonna be using that System Selector Pro to switch the DVD Player, Gamecube, and Playstation 2 and I don't wanna have to keep monkeying with settings between them...

The 2 Component inputs and the HDMI (and possibly the composite) can each retain individual picture settings - this is the way I originally had mine set-up before I got my receiver. So you can assign one to the DVD, one to the STB and one for games.

Well, Rex called today and left a message saying that my set was in and ready for pickup anytime. And, for those of you that have Rex Electronics around you, there should be a few more 34HF84's brand-new in stock. Give ya a progress report tomorrow evening...

:yippee: :yippee: :yippee:

I would've posted about my luck with the set last night, only I COULDN'T PULL MYSELF AWAY FROM IT TO DO SO(remember, this is all new to me). DVD's look amazing. At some points, I actually felt like I was getting motion sickness from the reality of the camera movement. Progessive PS2 and Gamecube games look amazing. I was blown away especially by Burnout 3 and Resident Evil 4. Theaterwide 1 has to be the greatest invention since sliced bread. I used it do watch a few minutes of a full screen DVD set, and you're barely able to tell that it's stretched. Comcast is scheduled to come on Tuesday, so I'll update this a little more then...

jss - I knew you'd love it.....

Try these settings for DVD watching (without too much ambient light):-
Contrast = 65
Brightness = around 35 to 40 (this is the only one I adjust up for Cable viewing)
Color = 37
Sharpness = 20 (but could be up to 50 for SD cable)
Tint = Red 1

Remember to start from the Movie mode in order to minimise SVM and then SAVE - it changes name to Preferences.

I always leave mine in 1080i Film rather than 540p or Video (I'm not a gamer but games might look better in 540p).

Have fun exploring your new set....

ps - you're right about Theaterwide 1 - you will find when you get local digital cable channels that when they are showing 4:3 programmes, Theaterwide 1 really comes into its own to get rid of the (broadcast) side bars. Theaterwide 2 is for non-anamorphic widescreen DVDs or SD - no distortion.

Yeah, I still can't get over how great the picture is on this thing- Finally, 30 years later, I can watch Star Wars the way it was meant to be seen. The shine and reflection of a nicely polished set of stormtrooper armor brings a tear to my eye...

So far I haven't noticed any real difference between 540p and 1080i for gaming. It's all just such a large step up for me(my SD 25" Toshiba doesn't even have S-video) that everything is amazing.

I was talking to one of my Comcast buddies the other day, and he informed me of a little glitch in the Moto 6412. Sometimes when you turn it on, you get no picture. Other times, you have no sound. He told me that the remedy for this is to play something recorded off of the DVR to get pic back and press the "mute" button to return sound. Which leads me to wonder- have you had any issues w/ that STB?

Yep, I just recently had the 'no picture' syndrome but playing something previously recorded brings it back.

You might want to add the extra features described here:-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorola_6412

they make life a lot easier.

Remember also that both tuners are continuously recording (about half an hour for HD and about 2 hours for SD) so you can set both to channels you are interested in and then swap back and forth and rewind to what you have missed - handy for news, sport or music. Also, another trick; if you are part way through a programme and you want to start recording it, press the record button and it should record the buffered earlier part as well so, within the buffered times above, you get the whole programme

Here's something I'm wondering about- it seems that the very bottom portion of my screen is bowed a bit(low in the middle and high one each end- higher on the right side). The top of the screen is perfect. Obvioulsy, it's the way in which the image is being projected. I have my tilt set at +1 and I can tell when I switch to a theaterwide setting that has slight bars on the top and bottom. Is this a problem that can be corrected by a technician? Or will I end up having to return the set entirely? It probably wouldn't be annoying to anyone but me, except it's driving me nuts as the set is brand new...

Unfortunately I am no expert - I don't think mine has. When viewing a channel with a scrolling bar at the bottom, eg CNN or ESPN, I can easily see that the tilt is correct but haven't noticed any bowing of either the picture or the bottom of the screen - how much do you think it is?

I used the grid in Digital Video Essentials and found that my picture has modest but normal overscan and is about half an inch off centre.

By the way the only time I see black bars (top and bottom) is with 2.35:1 DVDs or if a letterbox image is being broadcast, eg SD widescreen films and occasional adverts.

To me it's noticable(I'm also kinda anal about that stuff)- Ima try to snap a digicam pic of what I mean. It's sort of hard to explain how much it is, but if I tilt to compensate, then the upper portion of the screen is angled. I was also looking to a stretching adjustment, but don't see anything of the sort. I just have to figure this out before my return time is up...

my tv does the same thing. just on the bottom. on channels that have the scrolling thing at the bottom. i think it's normal. letter box dvd's dont bow..at least on mine.

The salesman told me today to unplug the set for at least an hour for a reset. I should also remove my center channel from atop it. The speaker is supposedly shielded and I'm actually hopin' that this is the only problem, which in turn would be no problem at all(just buy another speaker mount). I thought they usually affected the top of the screen(?). Is it possible that is set mirrors the image as it projects it, thus distorting the bottom of the screen?

Here's what the screen looks like:

http://home.comcast.net/~jsslifelike/tosh_screen.jpg

Notice how the black bar is perfectly horizontal across the top, but when you reach the bottom, it's all out of whack...

jss - yes that would annoy me too!!!

As a matter of interest, the still is from Star Wars which are all 2.35:1 so there should be bars at top and bottom - unless you are watching a full screen copy in a stretch mode.

When there is a banner at the bottom of the screen (eg on CNN or similar) is the banner parallel to the black picture edge, in other words does it also curve up at the sides. Or is it straight and parallel to the TV casing? Do you get the same effect regardless of the input device, ie cable/sat, DVD, VHS, etc?

Well, it's not the speakers. It's funny- the TV didn't reset even though it was unplugged for like 6 hours(all of my preferences were still set). Then it occured to me that maybe it was the System Selector Pro itself as every video source I've seen through the set has run through it. So I hooked up the DVD straight to the ColorStream2 input and got the same result. And in answer to your questions ja, yes- the tickers and such at the bottom of the screen do bow in the same manner as the DVD's do and is not parallel with the casing at all. So frustrating. But I did get my HD DVR STB and watched a bit of the last solar eclipse of the century in 1999. Wow. I felt like Homer lookin' at a donut...

bad tv....get it taken care of while under warranty. even with it in stretch mode it should fill in all the corners. and for it to only be affecting the bottom of the screen is another clue that it's a bad tv. I can post pics of my screen if you like.

The tech said that they might be able to "wand" it- Whatever the hell that means. But, I did call the store and they scheduled a tech to come out on Tuesday afternoon, so we'll see what happens...

Using a magnet to correct the bottom distortion which is due to uneven magnetic pull. Remove the Earth's magnetic pole and your TV would be fine. But the more practical way is to use a magnet to do it. Almost like resetting a pacemaker. :eek:

Remove the Earth's magnetic pole and your TV would be fine.

Well, if someone would've just told me that, I'd have done it a long time ago... LMMFAO

But seriously, I'm hoping that's all it is. I'm just starting to get kinda nervous...

A while back there were some complaints from 30HF84 owners about losing video during intense scenes over component video. Usually happened with explosions, lightning, etc. The video signal would black out for one or two seconds. I experienced the same problem when I first brought my 30HF84, but I figured it was probably due to insufficient bandwidth through the component video switch in my Kenwood receiver. Directly connecting my DVD player and HD receiver to the Tosh component inputs eliminated the problem.

I recently purchased the Video Storm CB003 component video splitter.

http://www.video-storm.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CB003

I wanted to split component video output from my Samsung Direct TV HD receiver to my two HDTV's. (Philips 30PW8502 and Tosh 30HF84) The product worked great (has very favorable reviews), pq was perfect on both sets but I ran into the video dropout problem again with the Tosh. I worked with Video Storm tech support and they immediately pinpointed the problem. Here is what they had to say:

Allen,

The problem you are describing is a DC restoration problem. The DC restoration circuit (clamp) in the Toshiba is very slow, and cannot respond to quick changes in the signal DC level. Your DVD player has a fixed DC level on it's output, so direct connection is ok. When this goes through a switch or amp, the DC level will change. Please try output 3 of the CB003 for the Toshiba. This output has a
much slower DC change than 1 & 2 (to prevent this type of problem). If the problem is still there, you will need a active amp/switch with DC restoration built in. The only one I know of under $1K is our CSM62, which will be release next month.

Best Regards,
-Jason
Video Storm LLC

Well output 3 helped but I still experienced the dropout effect with intense high def scenes. When the CSM62 is released later this month I'll give it a try.

Just thought you guys might be interested in hearing about another weird anomaly with this set. Any one else had any experience or success with this problem? Have any of the HF85 owners run into this?

Well, today is the day that my technician comes out to look at the projection problem. Im hoping it can be corrected- I'm loving the picture on this set. Keep ya posted later on tonight...

jss - since you published your screen shot I have had a more critical look at mine. I have a very slight upward bow, mainly on the left side and perhaps as much as an eighth of an inch - I'm not going to worry about it but will be interested to hear if yours gets fixed.

Awwwwww, dude- it can't be fixed. I think mine's the extreme though. I'm thinkin' 1xtremecobra was right. The technician said that no mechanical or technical adjustments can be done without distorting other parts of the picture. Then, he called Toshiba directly and they said that it's normal. NORMAL!? F@#k no it isn't- not for me. The guy on the other end of the phone barely said two words to the tech and then he looked at me puzzled, hanging up the phone. He took several digicam pics of various inputs so as to have proof and ammo in case I needed it. I called Rex immediately and the salesman said that he hadn't recieved a fax yet about the problem. He did call right back and offer me floor model for $100 bucks less(bringing the cost to $899), but I told him that I want a brand new, in-the-box set. He's gonna try to track one down, but offered the Phillips 34" and Sony 34"(Sony I'd have to add money to and I dun wanna do that). Oh well, guess I'll post more as I know it... *sigh*

Sorry- I forgot to mention that "wanding" the set did nothing either. The picture returned to exactly what it was previously...

jsslifelike,

Sorry to hear that the wanding didn't do the trick. Doesn't BB have any 34HF85 that they could replace your 34HF84? The HF84s were improved from the HF83s but still had geometry issues on occasion. The HF85s pretty much corrected the problem.

Might be worth a try - you get switcheable SVM and I believe 2 HDMIs.

I didn't end up getting it from Best Buy- I got it from Rex Electronics, but yeah, I could check to see if they are going to carry the 85 I guess. I dunno, I love the picture on this set, I just hope that the 85's are as nice, being with the scary "Chan-isms" and all...

Seems like I just wasn't meant to have an HD set... :(

jsslifelike, that screen shot you post, how was it being diplayed? it looks like maybe widescreen dvd and you adjusted the tv pic size. do you have hd cable? if so watch one of those channels with pic size normal. if the picture looks the same as you posted then thats definatly not normal. mine fills all the corners. the black letter box bars (4:3 or wide screen)will bow a little. you notice it more when you strech the picture. i watch dvd's in there original format, with the bars

Nah, it happens in every theaterwide mode and every video source. The tickers on ESPNHD and such look like shit as well. I think you were just right- it's a dud...

Supposedly Rex located another new 34HF84 and it having it shipped in to the store. Since I've already thrown this set's carton away, I think I might have them deliver the set and take the old one when they go. Sometimes piece of mind is worth $50. I just hope that this is the last of the trouble...

Good luck - I guess apart from the bowing you were fairly happy with the set?

I LOVE the picture, just not the geometry. HD cable, DVD's, and games are great. We'll see what happens next, but I'm pullin' for Toshiba...

I totally agree with you about the stellar sharp picture with awesome "black level". I found this from my Dad's Panasonic CT-30WX15 manual:

TILT CORRECTION
This feature is used to adjust the tilt of the picture due to
the earth’s magnetic field in the area. Procedure
• Press CH ?? to select TILT CORRECTION.
• Press VOL ?? to display adjustment menu.
• Press ?? VOL or VOL ?? to adjust picture tilt.
GEOMAGNETIC CORRECTION
This feature is used to adjust discoloration of the picture
due to the earth’s magnetic field in the area.
Procedure
• Press CH ?? to select GEOMAGNETIC CORRECTION.
• Press VOL ?? to display adjustment menu.
• Press ?? VOL or VOL ?? to adjust discoloration


Hopefully Rex replacing your set will correct the problem. It would be nice if our Toshibas have this "geomagnetic correction" that Pannys have. Just out of curiosity, do you have any large electronic equipment, like an amplifier right beneath your Toshiba? I ask this because your bowing is very symmetric and midline.

I have a bunch of stuff beneath it, but my receiver is a good 8-9" away from the bottom of the set. After noticing the problem, the only things I added to that immediate shelf was my PS2 and HD DVR. The technician didn't even indicate that that would be a problem either, probably because the subject never did come up. He even said that if he adjusted the rings on the picture tube that the side or sides would bow as well(obviously). Geomagnetic Correction would be great- I wouldn't even be having a problem right now...

What about the powered sub being directly behind the stand and set? Would that be doing anything? I may just test that out after work...

jss - I have my DVR directly below my TV, about 4" gap, in the centre; and my powered sub-woofer on the floor about a foot below and 6" to the side. As mentioned before, I do have a very slight bow on the bottom (1/8") but nothing I can't live with.

You are getting a replacement set so let us know how it is!

I moved the sub and nothing happened again- dunno why I keep trying to make excuses, but they located another 84 that's on it's way. Since I disposed of the carton already, we're going to switch 'em to return this one to Toshiba. I'm takin' my Star Wars DVD to test it out at the store if I don't end up having it delivered. I wanna make sure this time...

Rex finally found me a new 34HF84 to replace mine, so I'm headin' out later today(Sunday) to make the switch. I'm takin' Avia with me too... Gotta make sure that it's damned close to perfect...

Let us know what happens. :)

Well, they got me another brand new, in-the-box 84 and it had even WORSE geometry problems. As I was checking out the last Phillips 34" they had, I found out it had a blown component input and it was the last one(I made sure they hooked everything up before I took anything home again). I checked around, looked at the 84 they had as floor model, checked it and hooked it up and guess what- it had an almost perfect tube! They gave me another hundred bucks off(making the grand total $899) so I took it. Plus, I still have that 2-year manufacturer's warranty. After a little Tilt Correction and Scroll Adjusting, it's getting very satisfactory marks from me... :D

Finally, now you get a great picture and good geometry. Enjoy. I love my 85. :yippee:

Hello everybody,
I just joined this wonderful forum and decided the perfect place to start posting would be to ask for your feedback on the 30" Tosh I just ordered through my work (at A&B Sound). Although it hasn't arrived yet, I'm very excited to hook it up, calibrate it and start enjoying my Bell ExpressVu system (and dvd player of course) to its full potential. I just bought the 6100 HD receiver and am really enjoying it even on my current 32" Pansonic EDTV via the 480P resolution. I'm also anxious to compare the PQ between the component and HDMI inputs. Thanks, in advance for your input! :hithere:

First of all, welcome and congrats on a new step into a bigger world. If your 30HF85 is anything like my 34HF84(and I'm assuming it is), you'll kill over when you see how beautiful HD is- especially on this set. If you've seen monitors set up in stores, you may think you've seen that. Chances are that you haven't. Things look completely different once you get it home and configure it the way you want. That's when you'll be blown away. Broadcast HDTV, games, DVD's- all stunning. The thing you have to get next is a DVR- no HD owner should be without one. Enjoy...

I was never a Tivo owner but all owners I knew loved them.... however I wasn't convinced until I got my DVR - now I couldn't live without it. Other than the obvious cases of recording things that are on at inconvenient times, it really comes into its own for prime time competitive programming when the networks are pushing their HD content against each other!

It's funny that you should mention a DVR as I'm currently planning on splitting the cost of the Bell 9200 HD PVR betwen myself & my roommate. We hope to have it within the next month or so. I don't do alot of recording, which is why I wanted to have the 6100 in my room. I'm wondering, how many different screen-size options will be on my set? My roommate has the Sony 42" LCD Grand Vega from January 2004 and his has a few to choose from.

Rest assured, the Toshiba covers all the bases, Theater Wide 1 is the best stretch in TVs for 4:3 programming - and also can be used in HD mode thus eliminating the black side bars!

ja2935-

You're gonna laugh at me, but I just recently remembered about that article you linked me to on the 6412 and I programmed the hacks. I didn't think I could enjoy my Tosh any more than I am, but that 30-second skip is great! The mute is ok, but the skip is making my 34HF84 viewing 10 times as much of a pleasure.

Thanks again... :bowdown:

I've had my 30hf84 for over a month now and over all I'm pretty happy with it, however, I've just recently noticed something that might be a problem, and I was wondering if anyone out there has encountered the same thing. I have an older (5 years) Tosh DVD player (not a high end one - no progressive scan) hooked up with component cables and while watching the special features on the new Star Wars Ep. 3 disc, whenever there is a bright white flash, the screen goes black for roughly 2 seconds after. I tried different cables, and the same thing happened. When I switched the DVD player with my higher-end Panasonic RP96 the problem went away. I tried the same scenes with progressive scan on and off. This could just be an issue with the DVD player and the TV. (I hooked up the Tosh DVD player to my Pioneer HDTV and it did not go black after the same flashes), however I was wondering if anyone has any ideas before I call a tech. This doesn't really sound like the 480i problem people are reporting (the screen doesn't shake or shift), but I want to be sure.


So I did some poking around on this forum and others, and found out the problem of losing video during intense scenes over component video is related to a DC restoration failure. Now what I want to know is, is this a design flaw in the T.V. itself, or can this be fixed with a service call? Like I said, two different DVD players yielded two different results, so if I have to get a new player (i need to upgrade anyway) that's fine, but if this happens with most players, what's the solution?

I've had my 30hf84 for over a month now and over all I'm pretty happy with it, however, I've just recently noticed something that might be a problem, and I was wondering if anyone out there has encountered the same thing. I have an older (5 years) Tosh DVD player (not a high end one - no progressive scan) hooked up with component cables and while watching the special features on the new Star Wars Ep. 3 disc, whenever there is a bright white flash, the screen goes black for roughly 2 seconds after. I tried different cables, and the same thing happened. When I switched the DVD player with my higher-end Panasonic RP96 the problem went away. I tried the same scenes with progressive scan on and off. This could just be an issue with the DVD player and the TV. (I hooked up the Tosh DVD player to my Pioneer HDTV and it did not go black after the same flashes), however I was wondering if anyone has any ideas before I call a tech. This doesn't really sound like the 480i problem people are reporting (the screen doesn't shake or shift), but I want to be sure.


So I did some poking around on this forum and others, and found out the problem of losing video during intense scenes over component video is related to a DC restoration failure. Now what I want to know is, is this a design flaw in the T.V. itself, or can this be fixed with a service call? Like I said, two different DVD players yielded two different results, so if I have to get a new player (i need to upgrade anyway) that's fine, but if this happens with most players, what's the solution?

That's kind of strange being that the player and set are both Toshibas. It has to be just one of those "one-in-a-million" shots of incompatibility dumb luck. Does a friend or relative have a newer DVD player that he/she could bring to try on your set? That's what I'd try. It sure doesn't sound like a TV problem if the issue resolves with a different player. Do you have any gameboxes(PS2, Xbox) that you could try outputting an interlaced signal with? If so, any problems there? Good luck- I'm betting it's that specific player...

Marty1080i-

I was just wondering how your 30HF85 has been for you. I have a buddy who's TV is going on him and his entertainment center has a 32" wide opening. I've been looking at sets for him, but his only choices are 26" CRT's, 27" LCD's, and the 30HF85. I showed the latter to him as it would give him optimal viewing and the largest screen in the opening- the 30" Tosh comes in at 31 5/16"! Perfect for a 32" hole! I just wanted some user feedback before I whole-heartedly recommend it to him. He's been here to watch football, etc. before on my 34HF84 and loves the picture. So, should I tell him to pull the trigger?

jsslifelike, I posted my problem at the AVS forum as well, but I answered my own question. Long story short, it seemed to be an incompatability with the DVD player and the set. Here is my post from AVS:

I went out and bought the new Samsung HD850 hi-def upconverting player with HDMI output, and, boy what a difference! No DC restoration problems, and the picture looks simply jaw dropping (I set the player to 1080i output). I watched Star Wars Ep. III and i simply could not believe the level of detail the T.V. was producing. I have heard people complain about the poor quality of HDMI on these sets, but I don't really know how much better true hi-def could look on a 30" set. I looked for the HDMI "flicker" problem and did not see it at all. My 3 year old Pioneer HD52 set coupled with the Panny RP96 is still my benchmark for quality DVD presentation, however, for the deal I got on this set (Tosh 30HF84 for $700 cdn), I really can't complain. However, having said that something will probably go wrong with the set (like I'll come home and find it on fire or something :)), but for now, it's working fine.

Good, good. I'm glad. I figured that it was that simple- err, I was hoping that it was. It's just unbelievable to me that things like that still happen between components. Happy your poblem's solved- now go watch every DVD you own again... lol

Its a good job we are all already lovers of our Toshibas because the latest Consumer Reports slams them! The reviewers must have shares in Sony! The 34HF85 was only classed as 'Fair'.

i own a toshiba 32inch and right now and am extremly happy. i had an issue a while back and there support basicaly gave me a brand new tv. changed everything in my tv except the caseing. i owned a jvc prior to my toshiba and it took them 6 months to accomplish anything. im gonna be getting the hm195 model soon. toshiba won me over for life after the way they treated me. as for sony getting any good support ratings is shady. when i was having my jvc worked on the tech told me sony was not honoring there warranties. they adjusted there warrantys without telling anyone. he told me he had to tell some lady her $10,000 tv was a piece of junk now and sony would not fix it. the tv was 3 months old and pixils were already blowing on it. look what happened with the ps2. sony got sued for a disk read error problem. sony would not even admit it was happening. they wouldnt even fix the problem. now there getting sued. so there all of a sudden offering to fix the problem but they still say its not an issue. sony is a shady company period. they are known for over hyping there products then when the product comes out it is not nearly what they have been saying. im not even gonna get into the psx scam they did over seas. does this sound like a company you can trust?

I did something stupid when I was adjusting some settings in the service menu and realized that I missed the last three values when I was writing them down for some reason.

Now my color is messed up and I dont know what the last value was set to. It is "ROF" which I guess means red offset? Anyway, I am unable to eyeball it to match the previous setting.

If someone could check the SM on their 34HF84 and tell me what the last three values are for YOF, BOF and ROF, I would REALLY appreciate it. It will only take a sec.

Thanks.

OK weird problem, I went to change the picture size on set, it's been on theatre1 forever, I don't ever change it. When I went to theatre 2, 3 or full the picture is way out of adjustment, like there are two different images on top of one another with a really bad flicker, totaly un-watchable. Has anyone else seen or heard of this happening on a 34hfx84? I remember changing it about a month ago and all were working...it must have just happened.

Apparantly this is an ongoing problem with Toshiba sets. When you have a bright white background, you can see what looks like a yellowish haze, particularly around the edges. I noticed this and thought it was a power supply problem. I live in an older house with somewhat suspect wiring. I tried several different outlets, including the stove which is probably the cleanest power. I also am powering through an APC surge supressor which has some power filtering abilities. I created a pure white jpeg card and displayed it at full res with my DVD player. It's pretty noticeable then. Some have described it as looking like the inside of the tube needs to get wiped down, which is pretty much impossible from my understanding. I googled ""Toshiba dirty screen", but didn't get much info from that. Does anyone know about this and if there's a fix. It isn't always noticeable, but it's there and it kinda bugs me. :confused:

Apart from that, the picture is awesome on my 34 hf85, especially in HD. wow! If there isn't a fix, I can probably live with it, but it'd be nice to get rid of it.

HELP!

I just bought the 30HFX84 on Craig's List for $300. The guy was a minister for a church so I don't believe he was taking me for a ride when he said there weren't any problems with the TV. And there aren't really at the moment, besides this:

I'm using an HDMI cable to the HDMI inputs from my PS3, but it won't work. Component works fine, but I can't seem to get the HDMI inputs to work. I have nothing else to test the HDMI port with besides my PS3 so I'm not sure if it's my PS3, the TV, or the cable.

I am doubting it's the cable at this point because I purchased a 1.3a HDMI compliant cable and it didn't work, so I thought it might not work with 1.3a, so I went back and got a normal one, and nope. Nothing. I'm going to pick up a DVI to HDMI adapter tomorrow after I get off work and use the cable I was using with my previous TV (HDMI to DVI) that worked fine, and hopefully that works; because I do not want to own a lemon of a TV! Haha. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Thanks!

I just had the same thing happen, except I purchased the set new. One day the inputs were fine the next Gone:what: It will probably cost around $450 to replace the board that drives the inputs. From what I am gathering, Its a problem that can happen even if the inputs are not being used. :eek: :banghead: .

I will save my money and upgrade soon, but for now colorstream inputs will have to do.