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Onkyo TX-SR606 HDMI Switching headache

musiclover408
01-02-2010, 11:17 AM
I have this receiver with and Motorola HD Cable Box DVR, Directv HD DVR and a Blu Ray Player. They are all hooked into the HDMI inputs of the receiver and then being transferred via HDMI cable to an older Samsung EDTV. The problem I am having is with the TV being able to tune in the HD signal quickly and easily. When I turn on one of the devices, the TV will flash "No signal detected". I know that my TV is not HD at 1080p but it will display 720p or 1080i. I have the receiver set to transmit at 720p always instead of native resolutions. I have all 3 inputs set to HDMI inputs. To make it work, I sometimes have to turn off the tv and then back on so it can try to connect again with the receiver. Or go back into the HDMI settings of the receiver and re-do the HDMI input settings (even though they are already set to HDMI).

This is so frustrating...can anyone help here??

Thanks!

BIslander
01-02-2010, 11:51 AM
Unfortunately, there tend to be more HDMI handshake problem reports with Onkyos than with other receivers.

Why are you sending 720p to a set that only outputs 480p? You might have more success if you set each of your devices to 480p so that there's no down conversion required by the Samsung or the Onkyo.

Also, what happens if you connect your devices directly to the TV? If the same thing happens, you know the Onkyo is not to blame. But, if the TV is able to negotiate a connection properly each time, even when the devices are set to 720p, then it's likely there's a problem with the Onkyo.

musiclover408
01-02-2010, 12:51 PM
Ahh...that was the problem. I changed the Onkyo to transfer at 480p and all is well! I had it set at 720p and since the TV can decode that, I didn't think it was a problem. Thanks for the help!!

BIslander
01-02-2010, 02:02 PM
:) Glad that helped.

thecalvin
01-24-2010, 12:15 AM
Also having this same problem for about a month now -- going from source into amp and out to TV gives me "No Signal" message on both the TV and amp, and then it finally shows up after maybe 5 minutes or so, give or take. Going from HDMI source straight into TV works just perfectly though. I Tried all 4 HDMI ports, as well as TV, swapped out different cables on both ends, and tried all the Upconversion settings (it usually is disabled), but same "No Signal" message. Not sure what's going on, any thoughts?

40" LNA550 Samsung
Xbox 360
TX-SR606

deadhead68
01-24-2010, 08:56 AM
Not sure what's going on, any thoughts?

Sounds like you're having some HDMI handshake issues between your devices.

Bigloww
01-24-2010, 09:30 AM
Also having this same problem for about a month now -- going from source into amp and out to TV gives me "No Signal" message on both the TV and amp, and then it finally shows up after maybe 5 minutes or so, give or take. Going from HDMI source straight into TV works just perfectly though. I Tried all 4 HDMI ports, as well as TV, swapped out different cables on both ends, and tried all the Upconversion settings (it usually is disabled), but same "No Signal" message. Not sure what's going on, any thoughts?

40" LNA550 Samsung
Xbox 360
TX-SR606

1 thing I would try is to go into the video setting of the 606 and change it from 1080i (or whatever) to video passthough.

If that does not help...... Is it only your cable box that you are having handshak issues with or is it everything? If only the cable box I would connect it to your 606 via component video and optical and you will not have the issue anymore. At least with the cable box..

awol
01-27-2010, 07:34 PM
Not sure what's going on, any thoughts?


My 606 is currently at the local repair shop due to what I thought was HDMI handshake problems. The AVR worked fine for over a year, then slowly started showing problems when switching between HDMI inputs on the AVR. It seemed like the AVR itself had to "warm up" before I could switch from whatever the last input was to another one. Eventually, it wouldn't switch inputs at all. So when that happened, I called Onkyo and they said take it for repair.

Unfortunately, there was apparently a bad batch of 606's that were released. The problem is with the HDMI daughterboard in the AVR. Mine was not the only one at the repair shop either. There were two others with the same problem on the counter when I dropped mine off.

HD Goofnut
01-27-2010, 10:27 PM
My 606 is currently at the local repair shop due to what I thought was HDMI handshake problems. The AVR worked fine for over a year, then slowly started showing problems when switching between HDMI inputs on the AVR. It seemed like the AVR itself had to "warm up" before I could switch from whatever the last input was to another one. Eventually, it wouldn't switch inputs at all. So when that happened, I called Onkyo and they said take it for repair.

Unfortunately, there was apparently a bad batch of 606's that were released. The problem is with the HDMI daughterboard in the AVR. Mine was not the only one at the repair shop either. There were two others with the same problem on the counter when I dropped mine off.

I've been using mine for 13 months with no issues. I hope it's safe to assume that mine is not part of that bad batch.

awol
01-28-2010, 03:09 PM
I've been using mine for 13 months with no issues. I hope it's safe to assume that mine is not part of that bad batch.

I wouldn't know... I got mine in July of 2008. Which wasn't too far out from the release date. I don't know how many units were affected, or how long the production cycle of the bad units was.

Loves2Watch confirmed that there was a bad batch, but didn't specify if it was known as to how many units were affected. What I do know based on posts over at AVS was that they initially did not know that the part itself was what the problem was. Many people initially had the HDMI Daughterboard replaced, only to have the same problem creep back up on them within the next few months. Again, unlike most things electronic, it's not a sudden thing. It just happens over time. It takes longer and longer for the handshake to complete. I say mine eventually just wouldn't. It's possible if I just let it sit there for 15 minutes, it might finally go through. I'm not that patient.

thecalvin
02-02-2010, 08:30 PM
Yeah, I can definitely confirm those symptoms on mine as well...unfortunately i'm a month out of warranty...how much did they say it would cost to repair, Awol?

awol
02-03-2010, 10:54 AM
Yeah, I can definitely confirm those symptoms on mine as well...unfortunately i'm a month out of warranty...how much did they say it would cost to repair, Awol?

Mine was still under warranty, so for me nothing thank goodness.

Usually a repair shop will charge you a set fee just to look at it. The guys I went to charge about $100 I think. Typically, they'll give you an estimate as to how much it would cost to repair, and then the $100 you've already paid goes toward the total. So if the total was $300, then you'd be out another $200.

Here's what I would do first though. Call Onkyo. Explain to them that you understand this is a consistent problem with these units and that you are a month out of warranty. They might be willing to work with you since it's a known issue.

dnrenfro
02-03-2010, 02:41 PM
I am having the same problem with my 606. I talked to my local repair center and was told he has 5 recivers in for the same issue. They told me that the HDMI switching board needs to be replaced and can't be repaired. Heres the Bi*%# the part is on backorder and Onkyo is telling the repair shop they will not be available until April. The shop has to keep the unit until the part comes in as to be assured they have the unit to fix. They also told me that the new board is a $400.00 part. Thank goodness mine is still under warranty. To be without my reciever for 3 months is ridiculous:banghead:

awol
02-03-2010, 04:21 PM
I am having the same problem with my 606. I talked to my local repair center and was told he has 5 recivers in for the same issue. They told me that the HDMI switching board needs to be replaced and can't be repaired. Heres the Bi*%# the part is on backorder and Onkyo is telling the repair shop they will not be available until April. The shop has to keep the unit until the part comes in as to be assured they have the unit to fix. They also told me that the new board is a $400.00 part. Thank goodness mine is still under warranty. To be without my reciever for 3 months is ridiculous:banghead:

I really, really, really hope your repair shop was wrong. Going without surround sound has just plain sucked for the last month. I can't imagine an additional two months. Well, yes, I can, and they will suck too if this is the case. :(

stumann
02-04-2010, 10:51 AM
Your problem is not handshake. It's the HDMI ports on the Onkyo. I purchased an Onkyo TX-SR707 in Nov 2009. My Sat box was cutting out every few seconds. I communicated with Onkyo support who told me to reset the unit every time i contacted them. This btw didn't work.
I then tried every HDMI port on the unit and actually found one that works flawlessly - the DVD/BD (HDMI 1). I had to then go through the same process with our PS3 and it finally worked on the CBL/SAT (HDMI 3) input. Also, i bumped the Sat box down to 480p and it worked fine on all ports. HMMMM. Onkyo now tells me i have to bring it in for repair. They won't replace it and since they didn't even attempt to "troubleshoot" the problem, i missed the 30 day exchange window.
i have not yet had the unit repaired but have read several posts about HDMI daughter board failures.:banghead:

ajvigants
02-15-2010, 11:43 PM
"cutting out every few seconds" . Were these audio, video or both?

Your problem is not handshake. It's the HDMI ports on the Onkyo. I purchased an Onkyo TX-SR707 in Nov 2009. My Sat box was cutting out every few seconds. I communicated with Onkyo support who told me to reset the unit every time i contacted them. This btw didn't work.
I then tried every HDMI port on the unit and actually found one that works flawlessly - the DVD/BD (HDMI 1). I had to then go through the same process with our PS3 and it finally worked on the CBL/SAT (HDMI 3) input. Also, i bumped the Sat box down to 480p and it worked fine on all ports. HMMMM. Onkyo now tells me i have to bring it in for repair. They won't replace it and since they didn't even attempt to "troubleshoot" the problem, i missed the 30 day exchange window.
i have not yet had the unit repaired but have read several posts about HDMI daughter board failures.:banghead:

stumann
02-16-2010, 07:01 AM
Both cut out

Bigloww
02-16-2010, 09:30 AM
Your problem is not handshake. It's the HDMI ports on the Onkyo. I purchased an Onkyo TX-SR707 in Nov 2009. My Sat box was cutting out every few seconds. I communicated with Onkyo support who told me to reset the unit every time i contacted them. This btw didn't work.
I then tried every HDMI port on the unit and actually found one that works flawlessly - the DVD/BD (HDMI 1). I had to then go through the same process with our PS3 and it finally worked on the CBL/SAT (HDMI 3) input. Also, i bumped the Sat box down to 480p and it worked fine on all ports. HMMMM. Onkyo now tells me i have to bring it in for repair. They won't replace it and since they didn't even attempt to "troubleshoot" the problem, i missed the 30 day exchange window.
i have not yet had the unit repaired but have read several posts about HDMI daughter board failures.:banghead:

To my knowledge, the HDMI Daughter Board issue only affects the x06 Onkyo receivers and only a certain manufacturing timeframe of those models. It does not affect the newer x07 models. I may be wrong on that, but that is what I understood. Do you have any issues if you use 480p or video pass-through? Using the Onkyo (or many other receivers) to convert/up convert your HD sources is not really needed in most cases. Your devices and TV will do just as good without all that extra conversion stuff going on that can cause issues (especially with cable/sat boxes). I can't tell any difference in most cases with my 606 and plasma, so just use pass-through. But best to have it checked out while still under warranty if you think there is an issue.

HD Goofnut
02-16-2010, 09:57 AM
To my knowledge, the HDMI Daughter Board issue only affects the x06 Onkyo receivers and only a certain manufacturing timeframe of those models. It does not affect the newer x07 models. I may be wrong on that, but that is what I understood. Do you have any issues if you use 480p or video pass-through? Using the Onkyo (or many other receivers) to convert/up convert your HD sources is not really needed in most cases. Your devices and TV will do just as good without all that extra conversion stuff going on that can cause issues (especially with cable/sat boxes). I can't tell any difference in most cases with my 606 and plasma, so just use pass-through. But best to have it checked out while still under warranty if you think there is an issue.

Same here Big. I don't even fool with that 1080i upconversion on my 606. I just let my A20 upconvert my DVDs and of course most HD programming is already 1080i.

stumann
02-16-2010, 10:15 AM
All ports seem to work fine with 480p. I found that out when i went down the component video path. The pass through setting is the one enabled. I tried, at first, to jack around with that setting, but returned back to pass through. Only one of the rear HDMI (HDMI 1) ports is able to handle my Sat box at full res (and it's not the one labeled CBL/SAT), and only one other HDMI port was able to handle my PS3 (the CBL/SAT HDMI (HDMI 3) input. Neither the Sat or PS3 work on any of the other rear HDMI ports. I haven't tested the front panel HDMI.

HD Goofnut
02-16-2010, 10:35 AM
All ports seem to work fine with 480p. I found that out when i went down the component video path. The pass through setting is the one enabled. I tried, at first, to jack around with that setting, but returned back to pass through. Only one of the rear HDMI (HDMI 1) ports is able to handle my Sat box at full res (and it's not the one labeled CBL/SAT), and only one other HDMI port was able to handle my PS3 (the CBL/SAT HDMI (HDMI 3) input. Neither the Sat or PS3 work on any of the other rear HDMI ports. I haven't tested the front panel HDMI.

Yeah, something is definitely wrong with at least some of your HDMI inputs. I have my HD DVR in the CAB/SAT input, the PS3 in the GAME/TV input, the BH200 in the DVD input, and the A20 in the VCR/DVR input. Other than a rare audio dropout from the LG BH200 (firmware related) I don't have a problem with any of these devices and my 606.

awol
02-18-2010, 08:46 AM
I am having the same problem with my 606. I talked to my local repair center and was told he has 5 recivers in for the same issue. They told me that the HDMI switching board needs to be replaced and can't be repaired. Heres the Bi*%# the part is on backorder and Onkyo is telling the repair shop they will not be available until April. The shop has to keep the unit until the part comes in as to be assured they have the unit to fix. They also told me that the new board is a $400.00 part. Thank goodness mine is still under warranty. To be without my reciever for 3 months is ridiculous:banghead:

I really, really, really hope your repair shop was wrong. Going without surround sound has just plain sucked for the last month. I can't imagine an additional two months. Well, yes, I can, and they will suck too if this is the case. :(

UPDATE: I called the repair center yesterday and the part is officially on backorder. He told me they are slowly trickling in. He also told me that as the only repair center in Texas that works on Onkyo, he is surprised Onkyo has not issued a full on recall for the range of serial numbers they know are being affected. He confirmed that it was a bad batch of product from all lines of the x06 series. It is not limited to the 606. Their shop is getting 5-10 units a week and currently has over 50 units to repair due to the backlog of the required part.

Right now, he expects my unit to repaired within the next two weeks. That will have been almost 2.5 months from drop off to pick up. Assuming he is correct on the timing.

Loves2Watch
02-18-2010, 09:01 AM
UPDATE: I called the repair center yesterday and the part is officially on backorder. He told me they are slowly trickling in. He also told me that as the only repair center in Texas that works on Onkyo, he is surprised Onkyo has not issued a full on recall for the range of serial numbers they know are being affected. He confirmed that it was a bad batch of product from all lines of the x06 series. It is not limited to the 606. Their shop is getting 5-10 units a week and currently has over 50 units to repair due to the backlog of the required part.

Right now, he expects my unit to repaired within the next two weeks. That will have been almost 2.5 months from drop off to pick up. Assuming he is correct on the timing.

Man, that really sucks...

Macks1974
02-21-2010, 10:14 PM
I started having this same problem with my 606 last September. I brought it to my local certified Onkyo repair facility at the beginning of October and got it back a month later. Everything was working well until a few weeks ago.

I'm now about to bring it in for repair for the second time, as the handshaking problem gets worse every day. Contacting Onkyo has been no help, as all they keep telling me is that they won't consider an exchange or replacement until I have attempted to fix it three times. Of course with my luck and at this rate my warranty will expire by the time I drop it off a third time, and then they'll probably tell me to buzz off.

Needless to say I'll be warning people about Onkyo electronics from now on. I don't see how a receiver can have so many problems just passing a signal through.

Anyway, just figured I'd join the ranks of the pissed off here at HDF. I'll try to post an update if I get my 606 working again.

Nico_bellic
02-26-2010, 04:59 PM
My 606 is currently at the local repair shop due to what I thought was HDMI handshake problems. The AVR worked fine for over a year, then slowly started showing problems when switching between HDMI inputs on the AVR. It seemed like the AVR itself had to "warm up" before I could switch from whatever the last input was to another one. Eventually, it wouldn't switch inputs at all. So when that happened, I called Onkyo and they said take it for repair.

Unfortunately, there was apparently a bad batch of 606's that were released. The problem is with the HDMI daughterboard in the AVR. Mine was not the only one at the repair shop either. There were two others with the same problem on the counter when I dropped mine off.

THANK GOD! EXACT same symptoms I'm having with my 606. Bought from newegg Dec 08. Turn on via HDMI/tv kicks on/receiver. Defaults to GAME/TV setting, and my xbox sits there on, and either it'll say no signal, or "mode not supported", but then I can at least hear audio. One the unit has been on for a decent amount of time, the handshake or whatever the issue is goes away.

Just tried swapping HDMI cables, didn't do squat. Seems to be only with the Game/TV HDMI. My DVD/blu ray always hands off fine. Same with the DVR.

I'm calling my local service facility tomorrow morning.

I'm just happy this is a known issue. I tried searching a few months back and came up with nothing. The issue has getting A LOT worse over the last month.

My unit serial is 0809DDJ8760XXXXXX A

awol
02-27-2010, 09:29 AM
I'm just happy this is a known issue. I tried searching a few months back and came up with nothing. The issue has getting A LOT worse over the last month.

Yeah, you're not alone. I need to call today actually to see what the status of my repair is. I'm REALLY missing my surround sound!

Nico_bellic
02-27-2010, 09:50 AM
My repair facility showed me the latest update fix from Onkyo, as of January 2010:

Replacing the HDMI board
Checking/adding capacitors to the NEW board.
updating firmware.

awol
02-27-2010, 02:34 PM
My repair facility showed me the latest update fix from Onkyo, as of January 2010:

Replacing the HDMI board
Checking/adding capacitors to the NEW board.
updating firmware.

Yes, and that process is taking about 2-3 months as of right now. The HDMI board is severely backordered (due to the number of defective units no doubt).

I'm at two full months as of this weekend. :(

Macks1974
02-27-2010, 03:31 PM
Yes, and that process is taking about 2-3 months as of right now. The HDMI board is severely backordered (due to the number of defective units no doubt).

I'm at two full months as of this weekend. :(

I wonder if those of us who have had the board replaced once already would still have to wait 2-3 months, or if they could just replace the caps and update the FW.

I might have to call the facility which replaced my board on Monday and see what they say.

Nico_bellic
02-28-2010, 05:36 PM
Yes, and that process is taking about 2-3 months as of right now. The HDMI board is severely backordered (due to the number of defective units no doubt).

I'm at two full months as of this weekend. :(

My local repair facility didn't mention any difficulty in receiving the part yet, but then again, they just ordered it. I wonder if when I call in a week they'll say something's up...

Who'd you hear this from, and when? Is it SOLID info?

awol
03-01-2010, 02:08 PM
My local repair facility didn't mention any difficulty in receiving the part yet, but then again, they just ordered it. I wonder if when I call in a week they'll say something's up...

Who'd you hear this from, and when? Is it SOLID info?

All info I've posted is direct from the mouth of the guy at my local repair center. He stated they are the only authorized repair center in Texas, and they are getting defective units in regularly.

I don't know him well enough (at all) to say if what he's saying is reliable, but I don't think he would have any reason to lie about it, so I'm taking it as truth. It's been corroborated by what others are saying here and at other forums regarding their units.

EDIT: I just called to check on the status. The part is still on backorder. He's hoping it will be delivered this week, but doesn't know for sure. This isn't the first time I've heard, "hoping it's delivered this week". *sigh*

Nico_bellic
03-04-2010, 05:16 PM
well apparently, my onkyo is done. they called earlier today, and only soldered extra capacitors on the board. we'll how long that doesn't last.

I also talked with onkyo who said that if the problem redevelops, they'll honor the warranty on this part outside the 2 years.

Nico_bellic
03-04-2010, 08:30 PM
My receiver seems to be working normally. Handoff is much faster when it previously took quite some time.

awol
03-10-2010, 01:57 PM
The part has arrived and is being installed tonight or tomorrow. I should have the unit back in my arms on Friday!

Woo Hoo!!!! :yippee:

It took two months total for the repair due to the backorder status of the HDMI boards.

awol
03-12-2010, 12:36 PM
An update for those that are following the status of the faulty HDMI boards:

I got my unit back today (finally). While he was finishing the paperwork, I asked about the rumors that the new part (HDMI board) was bound to break over time just like the original had. He stated that while that was true a few months ago, Onkyo and/or the part supplier has rectified the problem and should not pose any additional breakdowns. He stated that the problem was some of the capacitors were going bad. They have changed the capacitors that are known to be faulty, and this has supposedly fixed the problem.

We'll see. I certainly hope that the problem is fixed completely as my warranty will be up in June. And Onkyo is not known for their customer service, so the likelihood they'll fix it at no cost to me should it go out again is not very high.

Finally, I can have my games, movies, and TV in glorious surround again! :yippee:

Zameus
03-15-2010, 01:57 AM
My receiver is having all the same symptoms! :(

Nico_bellic
03-15-2010, 06:54 PM
An update for those that are following the status of the faulty HDMI boards:

I got my unit back today (finally). While he was finishing the paperwork, I asked about the rumors that the new part (HDMI board) was bound to break over time just like the original had. He stated that while that was true a few months ago, Onkyo and/or the part supplier has rectified the problem and should not pose any additional breakdowns. He stated that the problem was some of the capacitors were going bad. They have changed the capacitors that are known to be faulty, and this has supposedly fixed the problem.

We'll see. I certainly hope that the problem is fixed completely as my warranty will be up in June. And Onkyo is not known for their customer service, so the likelihood they'll fix it at no cost to me should it go out again is not very high.

Finally, I can have my games, movies, and TV in glorious surround again! :yippee:

like I posted above, they didn't even need to get me a new board, they just replaced four capacitors. ("1U- CAP")x4 is how its listed on my repair order.

Glad it sounds like they have the issue nailed down.

Zameus
03-16-2010, 12:40 AM
When viewing HD channels from my DirecTV receiver and the channel is outputting 5.1, should I be hearing sound from my Surr. L and Surr. R speakers no matter what listening mode I'm on right? It seems I'm only getting audio to those speakers when i'm on Dolby D setting. I'm not getting sound when i'm on Dolby D EX, Neo:6, PLIIX, etc. Is this due to the issues with this receiver? I also noticed that my OSD (on screen display setup) was not coming up. I've had to shut down the receiver and turn it back on to try and get the OSD screen. Any insight is appreciated.

awol
03-16-2010, 08:46 AM
When viewing HD channels from my DirecTV receiver and the channel is outputting 5.1, should I be hearing sound from my Surr. L and Surr. R speakers no matter what listening mode I'm on right? It seems I'm only getting audio to those speakers when i'm on Dolby D setting. I'm not getting sound when i'm on Dolby D EX, Neo:6, PLIIX, etc. Is this due to the issues with this receiver? I also noticed that my OSD (on screen display setup) was not coming up. I've had to shut down the receiver and turn it back on to try and get the OSD screen. Any insight is appreciated.

This does not seem like the same issue, but could possibly be related if you are using HDMI. As far as the listening modes (PLIIX, Neo:6, etc.) I don't use them. If something is not being broadcast in surround sound, then I let it default to matrixed stereo. Personal preference as I'm not fond of the idea of post-processing being added to the audio.

Zameus
03-16-2010, 10:34 AM
This does not seem like the same issue, but could possibly be related if you are using HDMI. As far as the listening modes (PLIIX, Neo:6, etc.) I don't use them. If something is not being broadcast in surround sound, then I let it default to matrixed stereo. Personal preference as I'm not fond of the idea of post-processing being added to the audio.

Thanks awol for the feedback. I'm going to send in my receiver within the next day or so. *SIGH...no surround sound for awhile. :banghead:

Zameus
03-16-2010, 11:05 AM
Thanks awol for the feedback. I'm going to send in my receiver within the next day or so. *SIGH...no surround sound for awhile. :banghead:

UPDATE: So I called into Fry's Electronics where I purchased my HTIB a little over a year ago, and come to find out my warranty I purchased comes with a one time exchange for a new system. However in the process, that will complete the warranty contract and the new system will not be under warranty unless I purchase a new one (which is a no brainer!). I'm stoked! I won't have to send it in for repairs! I'm taking this baby back tonight! lol :banana:

Loves2Watch
03-16-2010, 12:37 PM
UPDATE: So I called into Fry's Electronics where I purchased my HTIB a little over a year ago, and come to find out my warranty I purchased comes with a one time exchange for a new system. However in the process, that will complete the warranty contract and the new system will not be under warranty unless I purchase a new one (which is a no brainer!). I'm stoked! I won't have to send it in for repairs! I'm taking this baby back tonight! lol :banana:

Awesome...

OnkyoNONONO
03-17-2010, 06:06 PM
As many of you already know, Onkyo has been having major issues with their Toshiba-made HDMI boards. "Toshiba-made" is the primary reason--they really should throw in the towel and start making Toyotas or something. The service center told me the problem was the capacitors were drying out prematurely from the above-normal amount of heat produced by the 606 (and most other Onkyo models). As far as a 'bad batch'... nuh uh; ALL the 606s were, and still are!, being made with the lousy Toshiba board. As the service rep said, "It's not a matter of IF they will fail, it's a matter of WHEN". There is good news, however! The new boards they are using to replace these failed units are not being made by Toshiba! However, you still have to deal with Onkyo's well-deserved HORRIBLE customer service. If you don't return the 606 in its original box you MUST have the unit professionally packaged; you WILL NOT receive your repaired unit for at least 1 MONTH (I just sent the 2nd of my 2 units in for repair-- the service rep says they have "more than 20" waiting for repair but the boards are only coming in 5 at a time) and there's a very good chance you will have to send it back for more service since Onkyo loves to reject the 'bad board' theory and tries a band-aid fix. Onkyo is so difficult to deal with I had to ship my unit 550 miles from home instead of using a authorized repair shop 25 miles away. Why? Because the owner said "It's simply too much trouble dealing with Onkyo on these HDMI issues".
And it's NOT just the 606s...seems they're seeing more and more 7 and 8 series coming in.
As soon as my 2nd is repaired I'm selling them both and buying the Pioneer VSX-9040T.
I wish you all well with yours.

Loves2Watch
03-17-2010, 06:13 PM
As many of you already know, Onkyo has been having major issues with their Toshiba-made HDMI boards. "Toshiba-made" is the primary reason--they really should throw in the towel and start making Toyotas or something. The service center told me the problem was the capacitors were drying out prematurely from the above-normal amount of heat produced by the 606 (and most other Onkyo models). As far as a 'bad batch'... nuh uh; ALL the 606s were, and still are!, being made with the lousy Toshiba board. As the service rep said, "It's not a matter of IF they will fail, it's a matter of WHEN". There is good news, however! The new boards they are using to replace these failed units are not being made by Toshiba! However, you still have to deal with Onkyo's well-deserved HORRIBLE customer service. If you don't return the 606 in its original box you MUST have the unit professionally packaged; you WILL NOT receive your repaired unit for at least 1 MONTH (I just sent the 2nd of my 2 units in for repair-- the service rep says they have "more than 20" waiting for repair but the boards are only coming in 5 at a time) and there's a very good chance you will have to send it back for more service since Onkyo loves to reject the 'bad board' theory and tries a band-aid fix. Onkyo is so difficult to deal with I had to ship my unit 550 miles from home instead of using a authorized repair shop 25 miles away. Why? Because the owner said "It's simply too much trouble dealing with Onkyo on these HDMI issues".
And it's NOT just the 606s...seems they're seeing more and more 7 and 8 series coming in.
As soon as my 2nd is repaired I'm selling them both and buying the Pioneer VSX-9040T.
I wish you all well with yours.

And you got this information where?

awol
03-18-2010, 09:48 AM
And it's NOT just the 606s...seems they're seeing more and more 7 and 8 series coming in.
As soon as my 2nd is repaired I'm selling them both and buying the Pioneer VSX-9040T.
I wish you all well with yours.

I've also heard it's not just the 606 line. It's affecting all of the x06 models from what I've read.

But the repair center I spoke to stated the new boards they are using as replacement parts now are fixing the issue. He even went on to say that the initial replacement part was NOT and did cause the units to fail again.

soupnazi
03-19-2010, 12:53 AM
I just took my 606 in today for repair.
Different issues than what most are saying here but it may be related.
The problem I had was with no video signal for my xBox connected via component to 606 then HDMI out to TV. It would have to be the component inputs, the upconversion or the switching to HDMI out to TV

I didn't get much info about the exact problem with mine yet but I described the issue to the repair shop and they seemed to think it's the same issue as the others. They said it would take 3 or 4 days. We'll see about that.

My receiver never got hot like some people are saying. Warm, but not hot. Maybe that's why I don't have tha same problem as what I've read in most posts. As long as it can be fixed I'm still happy with this receiver.

I do think however that if someone has this issue after the warranty runs out then it should still be covered by Onkyo seeing as how many receivers are affected.

awol
03-19-2010, 01:23 AM
I do think however that if someone has this issue after the warranty runs out then it should still be covered by Onkyo seeing as how many receivers are affected.

I've read other places that people are still getting it fixed even though it's outside of the warranty. They had to fight with CS at Onkyo, but they still fixed it.

soupnazi
03-28-2010, 11:10 AM
As many of you already know, Onkyo has been having major issues with their Toshiba-made HDMI boards. "Toshiba-made" is the primary reason--they really should throw in the towel and start making Toyotas or something. The service center told me the problem was the capacitors were drying out prematurely from the above-normal amount of heat produced by the 606 (and most other Onkyo models). As far as a 'bad batch'... nuh uh; ALL the 606s were, and still are!, being made with the lousy Toshiba board. As the service rep said, "It's not a matter of IF they will fail, it's a matter of WHEN". There is good news, however! The new boards they are using to replace these failed units are not being made by Toshiba! However, you still have to deal with Onkyo's well-deserved HORRIBLE customer service. If you don't return the 606 in its original box you MUST have the unit professionally packaged; you WILL NOT receive your repaired unit for at least 1 MONTH (I just sent the 2nd of my 2 units in for repair-- the service rep says they have "more than 20" waiting for repair but the boards are only coming in 5 at a time) and there's a very good chance you will have to send it back for more service since Onkyo loves to reject the 'bad board' theory and tries a band-aid fix. Onkyo is so difficult to deal with I had to ship my unit 550 miles from home instead of using a authorized repair shop 25 miles away. Why? Because the owner said "It's simply too much trouble dealing with Onkyo on these HDMI issues".And it's NOT just the 606s...seems they're seeing more and more 7 and 8 series coming in.
As soon as my 2nd is repaired I'm selling them both and buying the Pioneer VSX-9040T.
I wish you all well with yours.

Many times customer service problems are caused by the customer. Sometimes it's hard to describe a problem to them but it's easier if you just give them the facts and leave out the personal issues of why your not happy. If they still don't understand your problem then simply ask to talk to someone else to see if they can help.

I picked my receiver up yesterday from the authorized Onkyo repair store. They had to order a part and it took just over a week to get my receiver back in working order.

You don't have to contact Onkyo if you don't want to. Just call the store where you bought it from and they should be able to tell you where your authorized repair shop is. Bring in the receipt to show it's still under warranty and tell them only the problem you are having with the receiver or whatever product it might be. They should know more about what they are doing then you do so don't try to give them information they don't need. Like your personal issues or your own diagnosis of what you want them to fix. Customers like this piss them off and they would be less likely to help you. Just let them do their job and if they are a legitimate technician then they shouldn't tell you they don't want to fix it.

rperre
04-13-2010, 12:29 PM
like I posted above, they didn't even need to get me a new board, they just replaced four capacitors. ("1U- CAP")x4 is how its listed on my repair order.

Glad it sounds like they have the issue nailed down.

Hate to ask this, but would it be possible for you to look on the board and make a picture of the "replaced" capacitors.

I hate to bring in mine, it's a 80 mile drive and i can't find my receipt, i'm pretty sure i'm still within the 2 years. I'm good with a soldering iron and would do it myself or have a local electronic shop do it if i knew which one's to replace.

I can't see any 1u cap's on mine, they are at least 2.2u and then go up to 100u or 470u

Thanks,

Richard

coolhunk123
04-15-2010, 12:04 PM
thx...4 sharin

Bigloww
04-15-2010, 12:05 PM
thx...4 sharin

Please :spam: the fuck outta here.

ronzorelli
05-03-2010, 01:18 PM
Another Onkyo victim here... the 606 is a piece of crapola. Never buying Onkyo again. Between the HDMI issue (I leave the dang thing on at all times in order to reduce the amount of handshaking it has to do), and the fact that it shuts off with big booms at 35-40 on the volume (who buys home theater equipment to listen to it quietly?), I'm DONE with Onkyo.

Currently waiting for a Denon AVR2310CI I have on order to come in to replace this piece of garbage.

I might try to sell it on craigslist for $200... or just toss it in the trash, since the only service center the Onkyo site says is close to me is one in COLORADO. I'm not sending it to Colorado from Round Rock, TX.

HD Goofnut
05-03-2010, 01:27 PM
Another Onkyo victim here... the 606 is a piece of crapola. Never buying Onkyo again. Between the HDMI issue (I leave the dang thing on at all times in order to reduce the amount of handshaking it has to do), and the fact that it shuts off with big booms at 35-40 on the volume (who buys home theater equipment to listen to it quietly?), I'm DONE with Onkyo.

Currently waiting for a Denon AVR2310CI I have on order to come in to replace this piece of garbage.

I might try to sell it on craigslist for $200... or just toss it in the trash, since the only service center the Onkyo site says is close to me is one in COLORADO. I'm not sending it to Colorado from Round Rock, TX.

Been using my 606 heavily since I got it December of 2008 and never had one issue with it.

Loves2Watch
05-03-2010, 04:49 PM
Another Onkyo victim here... the 606 is a piece of crapola. Never buying Onkyo again. Between the HDMI issue (I leave the dang thing on at all times in order to reduce the amount of handshaking it has to do), and the fact that it shuts off with big booms at 35-40 on the volume (who buys home theater equipment to listen to it quietly?), I'm DONE with Onkyo.

Currently waiting for a Denon AVR2310CI I have on order to come in to replace this piece of garbage.

I might try to sell it on craigslist for $200... or just toss it in the trash, since the only service center the Onkyo site says is close to me is one in COLORADO. I'm not sending it to Colorado from Round Rock, TX.

You can ship it to me as I would be glad to take it off of your hands...All of my (5) Onkyo receivers work flawlessly.

ronzorelli
05-03-2010, 10:59 PM
You can ship it to me as I would be glad to take it off of your hands...All of my (5) Onkyo receivers work flawlessly.

Glad yours have worked fine. I wouldn't wish these hassles on anyone.

Sungrazer
05-15-2010, 06:38 PM
I get an HDMI signal from my DVR if I leave it turned on but this no longer works for my Blu-ray player. Does anyone know if this issue has been fixed with the 608?

spldart
05-18-2010, 11:15 AM
Main problem the 606 is having are regulators goin unstable as the caps esr goes up after time.... Heat makes the caps weaker, regulators start oscillating and creating alot more heat, regulated voltage fails, hdmi no longer works properly. Two particular voltages on the hdmi/dsp pcb are at issue.. One 3.3v and the more common problem one a 1.8v one that supplies your video processor IC. The big IC on that board. The current official fix is to replace 5 100uf 4v sm caps and add 4 .1uf tf caps. I also tend to replace yet one more cap... A 22uf 4v sm cap as well. If this doesn't correct the hdmi issues then one can generally assume the unstable operation damaged one of the sensitive ic's on the board and the repair will be much more involved.
Just fyi

Edit.... This board is in another onkyo model and 1 integra model of the same year.
And a similar problem has cropped up in a couple models of the next year. (diff hdmi board.)
And I happen to use an onkyo in my home theater. Not everything they make is, well.. having issues.

VinnieVOL
05-25-2010, 01:06 PM
Main problem the 606 is having are regulators goin unstable as the caps esr goes up after time.... Heat makes the caps weaker, regulators start oscillating and creating alot more heat, regulated voltage fails, hdmi no longer works properly. Two particular voltages on the hdmi/dsp pcb are at issue.. One 3.3v and the more common problem one a 1.8v one that supplies your video processor IC. The big IC on that board. The current official fix is to replace 5 100uf 4v sm caps and add 4 .1uf tf caps. I also tend to replace yet one more cap... A 22uf 4v sm cap as well. If this doesn't correct the hdmi issues then one can generally assume the unstable operation damaged one of the sensitive ic's on the board and the repair will be much more involved.
Just fyi

Edit.... This board is in another onkyo model and 1 integra model of the same year.
And a similar problem has cropped up in a couple models of the next year. (diff hdmi board.)
And I happen to use an onkyo in my home theater. Not everything they make is, well.. having issues.

Great info, thanks. Reading detailed posts like this make me feel more informed of the situation.

I tried to call Onkyo today and talk to someone with some technical knowledge of the situation. I had read many posts of people getting their units back and after a little while the units failed again with the same problem. My limited understanding was that replacing the capacitors was a temporary fix in light of a more permanent solution in replacing the hdmi board, but I have no technical knowledge so I was hoping to talk to someone who could assuage my fears of getting my receiver back and having it fail again in a couple of months.

I just shipped my receiver off yesterday, and am crossing my fingers Onkyo now has this problem nailed down once and for all.

VinnieVOL
05-25-2010, 01:10 PM
Onkyo is so difficult to deal with I had to ship my unit 550 miles from home instead of using a authorized repair shop 25 miles away. Why? Because the owner said "It's simply too much trouble dealing with Onkyo on these HDMI issues".

Was told this exact thing by an authorized local repair center in Lenoir, NC. Luckily there was also an authorized repair center in Charlotte, NC that I shipped my 667 to.

awol
05-25-2010, 04:26 PM
Great info, thanks. Reading detailed posts like this make me feel more informed of the situation.

I tried to call Onkyo today and talk to someone with some technical knowledge of the situation. I had read many posts of people getting their units back and after a little while the units failed again with the same problem. My limited understanding was that replacing the capacitors was a temporary fix in light of a more permanent solution in replacing the hdmi board, but I have no technical knowledge so I was hoping to talk to someone who could assuage my fears of getting my receiver back and having it fail again in a couple of months.

I just shipped my receiver off yesterday, and am crossing my fingers Onkyo now has this problem nailed down once and for all.

I don't remember where I originally posted this info (quite possibly, this very thread), but when I got my 606 back from a local repair center (after two-plus months), I asked specifically if the entire board was replaced or just the faulty parts. They specified it was just the faulty parts, and not the entire board, but that the problematic parts had been identified and entirely new/different parts (the capacitors) were now being sent out. That was as of March.

Replacing the capacitors was originally only a short term fix because they didn't realize the capacitors they were putting back on would eventually fail as well. That has supposedly been rectified.

VinnieVOL
05-26-2010, 07:08 AM
I don't remember where I originally posted this info (quite possibly, this very thread), but when I got my 606 back from a local repair center (after two-plus months), I asked specifically if the entire board was replaced or just the faulty parts. They specified it was just the faulty parts, and not the entire board, but that the problematic parts had been identified and entirely new/different parts (the capacitors) were now being sent out. That was as of March.

Replacing the capacitors was originally only a short term fix because they didn't realize the capacitors they were putting back on would eventually fail as well. That has supposedly been rectified.

That is my main concern, and I hope what they're saying is in fact true.

I called the repair center (which should be receiving my Onkyo 667 today) and asked "are you just going to be replacing the bad parts with the same faulty parts?" and he said "no, these are new/updated components".

I'm not excited about doing without my receiver for a month (or two), but I'm willing to do wait however long it takes for them to fix the problem permanently. Other than this glaring issue, I've been more than happy with my Onkyo.

*crossing fingers*

xak
05-26-2010, 01:19 PM
Another victim of the issue here. My TX-SR606 has been progressively getting worse over the last six months, and now has to be power cycled 5+ times when cold-powering on or switching inputs to get it to work. I purchased it in July 2008 from Amazon.

I emailed Onkyo today, hoping for warranty repair before my warranty period runs out.

Anyone have any experience they'd like to share with repair shops in North Carolina (Lenior and Charlotte are listed on Onkyo's website)?

VinnieVOL
05-27-2010, 06:15 AM
Anyone have any experience they'd like to share with repair shops in North Carolina (Lenior and Charlotte are listed on Onkyo's website)?


My Onkyo HT-R667 just arrived at the Charlotte shop (Carphonics) yesterday. I called and spoke to both them and the one in Lenoir, NC (Pro Connect). The guy I spoke to from Lenoir was very nice, but he told me he would only work on Onkyo's if I had a way to drop it off and pick it up. He said he'd had too many problems with shipping and receiving Onkyo's. But he was familiar with the problem we're having.

Then I called the one in Charlotte, the guy wasn't quite as warm and inviting as the guy in Lenoir, but at least he said they'd be happy to work on it. Both places told me that Onkyo's current tech note for the procedure for fixing the Onkyos were to first replace the capacitors with new/updated components and if that didn't work the hdmi board would be replaced. I asked him what the turnaround time would be and he said "depends.. if the cap replacement works then just about a week or so, but if we have to order a board it will be longer... several weeks." But I specifically asked "are they telling you to replace the faulty parts with the same part that will eventually fail?" and he said "no, these are updated parts."

The next day I called back to the one in Lenoir because I was going to be driving through NC soon and while it would be somewhat out of my way, I was considering dropping it off to them. The guy I spoke to this time didn't impress me so much. He may have just been a service clerk and not a technician, but he told me that they were "trying to move away from hdmi" and that all I had to do to avoid this problem was to run my hdmi cable from my component straight to the tv.. uhh...yeah, but... :confused:

Therefore, I shipped to Charlotte and got confirmation of delivery yesterday. So, we'll see. I'm trying to be optimistic and hope for the best.

spldart
05-27-2010, 07:13 PM
Quick update. As of a few days ago those .1uf 50 volt caps that were added to the board after the fact to stabilize the regulators are now being replaced by 1uf 50 volt caps.

They didn't update the bulletin. Just started shipping the new larger value when you order the part number listed in the bulletin. In my opinion the only reason for this is the engineers decided that the increased value would create further stability and get more boards back in operation for a longer time. I would agree with this thought process if it is indeed the case. I've stocked quite a few.

VinnieVOL
05-28-2010, 07:02 AM
Quick update. As of a few days ago those .1uf 50 volt caps that were added to the board after the fact to stabilize the regulators are now being replaced by 1uf 50 volt caps.

They didn't update the bulletin. Just started shipping the new larger value when you order the part number listed in the bulletin. In my opinion the only reason for this is the engineers decided that the increased value would create further stability and get more boards back in operation for a longer time. I would agree with this thought process if it is indeed the case. I've stocked quite a few.

So what does this mean to us dummies? :lol:

I don't really know what the difference is between .1uf and 1uf other than 1 is greater than .1. But what I think you said was that when the repair shop goes to replace the parts that are in the bulletin they use what they are sent, and you are saying they didn't update the tech note, just sending beefier parts. What if the repair shop uses what they've got in stock and not the new, beefier ones Onkyo's sending out?

I just don't want to have to ship my receiver to the repair shop again and again.

spldart
05-28-2010, 10:19 PM
Dunno yet. I haven't done enough boards with the new value to know if they will have a higher success rate or more durability. I figure onkyo is just gonna let the service centers run out of the .1's and the switch to the 1s

provista
05-29-2010, 07:11 PM
Quick update. As of a few days ago those .1uf 50 volt caps that were added to the board after the fact to stabilize the regulators are now being replaced by 1uf 50 volt caps.

They didn't update the bulletin. Just started shipping the new larger value when you order the part number listed in the bulletin. In my opinion the only reason for this is the engineers decided that the increased value would create further stability and get more boards back in operation for a longer time. I would agree with this thought process if it is indeed the case. I've stocked quite a few.

Hi, I managed to fix my 606 by replacing all the 100uf caps.
Just read your post and now I'm a little curious about where on the hdmi board those 1uf caps you mentioned are supposed to be soldered. I am getting a little worried that my repair won't last that long.
It would be really nice of you if you could upload a picture or describe where to add these components.

spldart
05-30-2010, 06:59 PM
I'll try to remember to bring my pics of a finished hdmi board on a 606 home with me tomorrow. I use it as a quick reference. Maybe upload them on flickr and paste them here. keep in mind though that I've been very busy so be patient.
And yes.. Your 100uf 4v caps can often get the board going again but it wont last. As soon as the heat and strain (for lack of better words) from those regulators hit the caps they start gaining esr (doesn't take much) and then the problem comes back. Generally takes a few months but sometimes less.
I assume you used the same type surface mount electrolytic caps.?
Anywho. A few days of use with the new caps are very unlikely to be a problem at all and when you add the 1uf ones you wont need to worry about re replacing the 100uf's

provista
05-31-2010, 03:44 AM
Thanks, I would really appreciate it! Actually I did what this guide suggested w w w.avsforum.c o m/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1246078 and replaced all the smd caps with some 100uf axial electrolytic 16v and 105 degree ones. It doesn't look as nice as the original board but they're easier to work with. I guess it shouldn't matter if I use 16v or 10v caps since both are rated a minimum throughput of 6,3v. The work was done 5 days ago but I haven't been using the unit that much since then. It's still working fine so I'm going with what you're saying and hope there won't be any issues after adding the 1uf capacitors.

halcion1
06-01-2010, 10:52 PM
Hey! add me to the list of victims...My HDMI works great to the Tivo and to the Bluray player, but lost xbox360 and (of course) the Wii. I used to do all of the voodoo rituals to get them to work, but it got worse and won't even display these...

Mine is under warranty until Sept, so I'll need to send it to Dtr Technologies in Colorado.

Any body have any tips for dealing with the Colorado service center?

spldart
06-02-2010, 08:23 AM
http://www.flickr.com/photos/spldart/4663442482/sizes/l/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/spldart/4662819741/sizes/l/

I'll only leave those up for a day or two.

xak
06-02-2010, 11:38 AM
My Onkyo HT-R667 just arrived at the Charlotte shop (Carphonics) yesterday.

Thanks for the detailed info.

I just got off the phone with Steve at Carphonics and he seemed helpful, yet a little short with me. It looks like I'll be driving it down myself to drop it off at his shop for repair in the next few days since I'm really nervous about shipping it. I'll post again about my experience.

provista
06-03-2010, 03:36 AM
Thanks a lot spldart!
I assume the added caps are the ones sitting on top of those transistors. I got a couple of questions if you don't mind.

What type of capacitor is that? They look like some kind of ceramic multilayer ones. If they are polarized, is the negative leg soldered to the transistor base?

alter
06-03-2010, 10:47 AM
i been trying to search where to put the 1uf 50v caps, but i have not seen any info, can you tell me the location of those caps thank you



never mind, i already saw the pics, thank you

MJG196
06-03-2010, 03:34 PM
I just brought mine home from the ONKYO service tech. Essentially, the power supply to the HDMI board is rated way too low. He told me the caps were rated at 3.3v and he replaced them with 4.4v (I think he said 4.4). He replaced the whole board/power supply and everything is working 100% now.

The tech pointed to his bench and there were SIX other 606's he was working on for the same problem! This is a problem with the 606 and apparently not the other models in the line. Mine was under warranty and I had my receipt, so it cost me nothing.

spldart
06-03-2010, 08:18 PM
Thanks a lot spldart!
I assume the added caps are the ones sitting on top of those transistors. I got a couple of questions if you don't mind.

What type of capacitor is that? They look like some kind of ceramic multilayer ones. If they are polarized, is the negative leg soldered to the transistor base?

The added ones are the ones sitting on top of those Toshiba regulators ;)

Those are thin film caps. And they are non-polarized.

Edit: I pwn page 6

spldart
06-03-2010, 08:21 PM
i been trying to search where to put the 1uf 50v caps, but i have not seen any info, can you tell me the location of those caps thank you



never mind, i already saw the pics, thank you

Research flickr a little closer. I detailed some descriptions for those images. including locations.

spldart
06-03-2010, 08:33 PM
I just brought mine home from the ONKYO service tech. Essentially, the power supply to the HDMI board is rated way too low. He told me the caps were rated at 3.3v and he replaced them with 4.4v (I think he said 4.4). He replaced the whole board/power supply and everything is working 100% now.

The tech pointed to his bench and there were SIX other 606's he was working on for the same problem! This is a problem with the 606 and apparently not the other models in the line. Mine was under warranty and I had my receipt, so it cost me nothing.

You have either been given some incorrect info or relayed that info inaccurately. The 100uf's both original and replacement are 4 volt and the add on caps whether .1uf or 1 uf are both 50 volt. And the power supply isn't underrated but simply becomes unstable without enough cap to keep the regulators from oscillating. It was an engineering/design error and is correctable by the bulletin.
And that very same board is in 1 other onkyo model and one other integra model. Not just the 606.
And a similar problem has cropped up in a next gen model. BEFORE they figured out the problem with the 3 models from teh previous year. I doubt onkyo will have this problem again for a while... Lesson learned i imagine.
And yes. I know I'm overly simply stating the problem.

No biggie. I've noticed a lot of shops are terrible with accuracy or honesty.
/me hates that :~(
I've run out to the customer area of our shop occasionally to correct my manager in relaying the facts in a repair more than a few times ;)

BTW... At the peak of this situation I had nearly 2 dozen U41 hdmi pcb situations sitting on my shelf at the same time :-/
I think the situation is 'in hand' now by onkyo. It was a bit of a runaway situation a while ago. But I can quote situations by nearly every major manufacture in the last 10 years that mirror this so don't be to judgmental. :)

jknez
07-04-2010, 10:43 AM
I am experiencing the same problem several others have posted about - difficulty getting the HDMI handshake process to successfully complete. I've had my receiver for about 1.5 years. The problem began appearing about 6 months ago. It appears that something in the receiver is beginning to fail.

inigoml
07-05-2010, 07:13 AM
flickr /photos/spldart/46
I'll only leave those up for a day or two.

Same problem here. Could you post these images again?

I'm going to open my SR606 and, if I can, I would prefer to fix everything in a single step.

Thanks in advance.

spldart
07-06-2010, 08:46 AM
Same problem here. Could you post these images again?

I'm going to open my SR606 and, if I can, I would prefer to fix everything in a single step.

Thanks in advance.

You got mail. Pics attached.

xak
07-06-2010, 11:48 AM
Carphonics in Charlotte received my package last Thursday. When I spoke to them last Wednesday, they told me the backlog for repairs was only 1-2 days. Today when I called to confirm they received my package, they tell me the backlog is "at least 12-14 days" and that they haven't even looked at shipments and couldn't confirm receipt of my receiver (I have a signature-confirmed tracking number). Their shotty reputation is certainly holding true so far. :banghead: The guy (same guy always answers the phone & says he's the owner) was rude, too.

cjcsmt
07-06-2010, 12:43 PM
Just fyi... thanks to AWOL on this forum I was able to find a place local in Dallas to fix what seems to be the same HDMI board problem as many of you are experiencing. Will try to update the amount of time it takes to get back and the quality of repair.

thanks everyone for the community of info.

CJ

spldart
07-06-2010, 01:11 PM
Funny. Hadn't seen one in a while. Somebody asks for my pics of u41 and I got 4 of them in today. 3 down. 2 resolved by caps. 1 is getting whole new board because of corrupted eeprom. Starting 4th u41 job now.

spldart
07-06-2010, 02:28 PM
4th hdmi board also resolved with caps. so batting 75% success rate on the bulletin today.

BaricL7
07-06-2010, 11:22 PM
I'll only leave those up for a day or two.

I was wondering if you could post the pics again, I would like to try and fix my receiver.

Thanks

spldart
07-07-2010, 05:41 AM
I was wondering if you could post the pics again, I would like to try and fix my receiver.

Thanks

I hope you have awesome soldering skillaz ;)
I'll email the pics when I get to work. give me a few hours.

dgarner9
07-08-2010, 09:22 AM
Spldart, could you please send me the pictures also? I am in the same boat. :-)


Thanks,
Darin

VinnieVOL
07-08-2010, 12:14 PM
4th hdmi board also resolved with caps. so batting 75% success rate on the bulletin today.

How do you feel these new parts will last for the unit in the long run? Should we expect the unit to go on to live a normal, healthy life now or might it fail again in another year or year and a half?

Also, how important do you think it is to buy some type of auxiliary cooling solution to prolong the life of this unit? Will it make any difference?

Alaric40
07-10-2010, 06:32 AM
Spldart, Finally I found someone that seems to solved this.
My 606 may have faild before but yesterday I got a new HD proj and a BD-player.
First time I tried to hook everything up though HDMI and the result, expecting a picture to blow me away, was a "bad analogue TV reception".
I quickly learned this was a fairly common problem and since I'm out of waranty I need to fix this myself.
So, as some other allready asked you I would really appriciate if you could send me these pictures also.
And, yes, I can solder.
Thanks for spending time helping us with this amp.

spldart
07-11-2010, 04:03 AM
Give me till Monday so I can respond at work on those pics. I'm packing for a move that starts in less than 1 week. Heh.. And the place I work for is considering a move too.

This fix should last a lot longer than the original amount of time you got before hdmi troubles... No guarantees however.

Getting a nice long service life for a receiver however... I can not say.

Auxiliary cooling would only delay the inevitable in my opinion. However. If the amp is in a rather poorly ventilated area then some sort of fan would undoubtedly help.

cjcsmt
07-12-2010, 04:50 PM
I was one of the lucky ones. Since my 606 was under warranty, I dropped it at a local servicer here in Dallas. They had it just under 4 days and I hooked it all back up last night. Works beautifully.

They just replaced some caps and added 4 more I think he said.

Hope it lasts.

Thanks all.


CJ

HD Goofnut
07-13-2010, 07:34 AM
I still have had no problems with my 606. Did I possibly get one of the good batches?

spldart
07-13-2010, 10:13 AM
I still have had no problems with my 606. Did I possibly get one of the good batches?

Some PCBs came with a different manufacturer of regulator. They tend to be more reliable.

spldart
07-13-2010, 10:21 AM
I tried uploading them as attachments but resolution is diminished. Lets see if this will be helpful or if I need to do a bunch of emails. I'm in the middle of a move so I don't have much time for the net right now.

Electrolytics are 100uf 4v - the little cans with the sharpy dots on them.

Added caps are thin film 1uf 50v - the red chicklets on top of the regulators.

and remember.. no matter how good a job you do this will only fix about 66% to 75% of units with hdmi problems.
Oh and take a look at those regulators before you start.. if they have a 480xx number then try it. if they have a BAxxx number then this prolly wont help.
I'm doing this from memory so sorry for any slight errors.

dgarner9
07-14-2010, 07:01 AM
Thanks Spldart,

that helps a lot!

Darin

BaricL7
07-15-2010, 07:26 PM
So i accidentally got polarized 1uf caps, anyone know which way these should be added to the top of the regulators?

BaricL7
07-15-2010, 09:16 PM
Update on my hdmi board. I replaced all the 100uf caps, but wasn't able to get the 1uf caps to solder to the board. (I am very inexperienced). I thought I would try it out with the new caps in. Well...it didn't work.....everything is the same. All HDMI works but no OSD and no out from component inputs on HDMI. It does seem to be able to display HD picture faster (use to have to let it warm up) I will be able to verify that tomorrow.

Couple questions, will adding the 1uf caps have the possibility of fixing the OSD, etc. or should I just assume that something else is wrong. Also if adding those has a chance on fixing the problems, any tips on getting them to solder to the tab of the regulator. I tried for about an hour on all of them with no luck. Couldn't get the solder to stick to the tabs. (just an fyi, I am using a 60w iron).

Thanks

spldart
07-19-2010, 07:33 AM
Yes... there is a better than 50 50 chance that 1uf non polorized thin film caps on the regulators specified will fix it. FYI a little solder rosin may get the solder to flow more easily. But if you need more than 5 or 7 seconds to get that regulator tab to accept solder cleanly then you have a problem. Not enough iron or dirty tip or something. To much heat, to long under heat, will hurt semiconductors.
You can damage a board that costs like 265 bux from Onkyo. be careful

Alaric40
07-25-2010, 12:19 PM
Thx for the pics.
It may help.
Since last time I discovered that we have a new law in Sweden that we can claim products up to three years for manufacturing fault. (Not a warranty).
I calimed the fault and my 606 is with Onkyos service now.
I would know in a couple of weeks if they accepted the repair.
The guy at the store I bought the 606 with said it wasn't the first one he sent back.

BlkSwanPres
07-28-2010, 09:09 AM
I tried uploading them as attachments but resolution is diminished. Lets see if this will be helpful or if I need to do a bunch of emails. I'm in the middle of a move so I don't have much time for the net right now.

Electrolytics are 100uf 4v - the little cans with the sharpy dots on them.

Added caps are thin film 1uf 50v - the red chicklets on top of the regulators.

and remember.. no matter how good a job you do this will only fix about 66% to 75% of units with hdmi problems.
Oh and take a look at those regulators before you start.. if they have a 480xx number then try it. if they have a BAxxx number then this prolly wont help.
I'm doing this from memory so sorry for any slight errors.

I noticed in your pics that the all regulators next to the 100uf caps that need to be replaced have the 1uf film caps on them except one, would there be any benefit to adding a one to it as well?

spldart
07-29-2010, 11:18 AM
I noticed in your pics that the all regulators next to the 100uf caps that need to be replaced have the 1uf film caps on them except one, would there be any benefit to adding a one to it as well?

Never had to. Onkyo doesn't claim this one is an issue but once in a rare while I have found a new cap on that regulator will stabilize hdmi operation. I have never found an issue however that could be resolved by adding a tf cap there as well. Onkyo's bulletin does not even cover that one iirc. Just 4 100uf and 4 .1uf or 1uf tf cap depending on what onkyo ends up sending us. heh

BlkSwanPres
08-02-2010, 02:29 PM
Never had to. Onkyo doesn't claim this one is an issue but once in a rare while I have found a new cap on that regulator will stabilize hdmi operation. I have never found an issue however that could be resolved by adding a tf cap there as well. Onkyo's bulletin does not even cover that one iirc. Just 4 100uf and 4 .1uf or 1uf tf cap depending on what onkyo ends up sending us. heh

OK I was just wondering, I had 5 of the film caps and didn't know if i needed to throw one on it.

KevinG
08-13-2010, 11:07 AM
Hi - I'm hoping for some advice from some of you experts; my problem is similar but very strange:

I've had the 606 since Dec 2008 with minimal issues - sometimes I would have to switch back 'n forth a few times to get the audio to work - not a big deal. However suddenly I have a major problem with the HDMI video out: the picture is very grainy with a green background, even on the Onkyo setup screen! I can still see the true picture, but it's grainy and green regardless of the source input.

I have this hooked up to an Optoma projector with HDMI to DVI adapter, so my first suspect was the adapter. Bought a new one, but problem remains. If I run my blu-ray or cable box directly to the projector, picture is perfect (even with the original adapter).

Now here's the kicker - I hooked the 606 up to my Sharp Aquos LCD TV in another room and everything is perfect!!! Back to the projector and it's green/grainy again. I'm afraid if I bring the 606 into a service center, they're going to tell me it works fine. Plus I lost my receipt.

In summary, everything works individually, but the desired combination stopped working after 20 months of working fine. Any ideas on this bizarre situation?

Bigloww
08-13-2010, 11:29 AM
1 Thing you can try if you have not already... Switch the HDMI setting to video passthrough and see if that helps.

KevinG
08-13-2010, 11:55 AM
thanks but I tried just about everything. Factory resets on the 606 and projector, updated blu-ray firmware, etc. I have the Samsung BD-P1500 and I read elsewhere that this player tends to clash with Onkyo receivers. But the problem exists even on the setup menu, so it's really strange.

RacerX10
08-14-2010, 03:09 PM
Here's my fix for anyone interested. It's working so far.

Big ripple caps are 100uF electrolytic and small filter caps are .47uF ceramics.

I went with thru-hole parts because that's what I had laying around :)

Thanks "spldart" for your original post. My pic isn't as good as his but I replaced / added all the same caps (top and bottom).

lui15
08-15-2010, 11:40 AM
Hi guys, I'm assuming replacing the caps will fix my issue.

* No OSD (could care less but nice for audio level visibility)
* No 1080p. HDMI works when input are in 1080i or lower.

It started out slowly as I lost the OSD, but didn't really care and thought it was a setting i had to go change. Near a year later, I started to have issues with HDMI inputs (Xbox port first then PS3). Given it was an xbox i blamed the xbox since it already RROD once and it would work after waiting 5 mins. All the other ports worked just fine. But recently I just had the PS3 have the same issue, and then it failed completely. I did some further troubleshooting and figured out that its the 1080p signal as all devices work fine at 1080i. Directv receiver only does to 1080i as well as the dvd player.

I'm out of warranty and haven't opened up the receiver yet so if you could send me details on the caps voltage or possible links I would appreciate it. I ask because from the few pictures I see different voltages and I'm no engineer to determine which is right. I plan on calling Onkyo on monday to find out what they would charge for the repair which I'm sure will result in dusting off the soldering iron.

BlkSwanPres
08-16-2010, 06:48 AM
I followed the instructions for the fix and 1080p was perfect for about 20 minuets, then I started getting flashes of green dots, like some kind of weird noise, it's hardly noticeable on light back grounds, but on black black its very noticeable, and it goes away when I switch to 720p. Any suggestions?

lui15
08-16-2010, 05:46 PM
FYI. Onkyo is doing a trade in for the 606 out of warranty for a 608 for 250. Issue are:
* it's a refurb model w 1 yr warranty / support
* shipping the 606 to Onkyo would be a good penny.

Nico_bellic
08-17-2010, 03:34 PM
My 606 just came back for the second time. I originally got it back the first week in March, after just replacing/adding 4 capacitors. Again having issues already. I would have to send it in for a third time.

I called Onkyo, frustrated that my receiver has been gone for some time and I still have repeated issues. I'm under warranty. The gentleman I talked to said to fax him the two service repair slips, my proof of purc, and that they'd do an upgrade to the 608.

My local repair place said the 608 is issue free as of now.

Anyone else getting a similar upgrade offer? It sounded to me that it was free, but I'm not sure if the unit was new or refurbed.

Nico_bellic
08-17-2010, 03:36 PM
I still have had no problems with my 606. Did I possibly get one of the good batches?

Mine was issue free for over a year before the problems started.

Nico_bellic
08-17-2010, 03:37 PM
Hi - I'm hoping for some advice from some of you experts; my problem is similar but very strange:

I've had the 606 since Dec 2008 with minimal issues - sometimes I would have to switch back 'n forth a few times to get the audio to work - not a big deal. However suddenly I have a major problem with the HDMI video out: the picture is very grainy with a green background, even on the Onkyo setup screen! I can still see the true picture, but it's grainy and green regardless of the source input.

I have this hooked up to an Optoma projector with HDMI to DVI adapter, so my first suspect was the adapter. Bought a new one, but problem remains. If I run my blu-ray or cable box directly to the projector, picture is perfect (even with the original adapter).

Now here's the kicker - I hooked the 606 up to my Sharp Aquos LCD TV in another room and everything is perfect!!! Back to the projector and it's green/grainy again. I'm afraid if I bring the 606 into a service center, they're going to tell me it works fine. Plus I lost my receipt.

In summary, everything works individually, but the desired combination stopped working after 20 months of working fine. Any ideas on this bizarre situation?

Your HDMI board is shot. This is a known issue. Hope you're under warranty!

lui15
08-31-2010, 03:35 PM
SUCCESS!!!! after a little bit of soldering, I've fixed my issues. Well most of it. So far it's been on for a good 5hrs with no issues switching between devices.

* No OSD (could care less but nice for audio level visibility) - Fixed - No OSD for volume but setup menu works via hdmi
* No 1080p. HDMI works when input are in 1080i or lower. Fixed - 1080p from xbox and my PS3 are working on any hdmi port.

Parts bought (sorry can't post link yet):
5x (got 6 just in case) - Capacitor Mini Electrolytic 4V 100uf Surface Mount 5MM - mcmelectronics com search for 31-8160
1x (sold in pack of 10)- Panasonic ECQV 1uf 50v Film Capacitor 5% 5mm - search ebay for exact wording (seller was jfromel)

The attached pictures shows in circle what was replaced and the soldering points with arrows. I hastily did the 5 film cap to avoid reopening the case again like RacerX10 did.

thanks goes to spldart & RacerX10 for their pics as i used both to clarify where to solder.

Forgot to add, after soldering and plugging in, do a reset with the power & vcr button.

spldart
09-01-2010, 11:25 AM
Whoooty woot and Huzzah! and all that jolly good stuff. :banana:

_MarSs_
09-05-2010, 12:09 PM
Thanks for that posts. I've just fixed all my problems with my 606. Now it switches 1080p in a second!

Peaceman4
09-17-2010, 02:38 PM
Thanks spldart for all the information. I had no OSD or component outputs on my Onkyo 606, HDMI work fine thankfully. I soldered the 4 TF Caps per your pics and everything works great now OSD and Component out through HDMI. Thanks again.

Peaceman4
09-17-2010, 02:43 PM
BTW I noticed that the wide end of the chip is covered in a thin film. I had to scratch it off with a metal tool to get the solder to take.

spldart
09-18-2010, 05:04 PM
BTW I noticed that the wide end of the chip is covered in a thin film. I had to scratch it off with a metal tool to get the solder to take.


that thin film is heat damage to the regulator tab. The more severe cases can make all the regulators in question here and subsequently some that don't need a mod look dark blue or smoke. Sometimes kinda brownish. I take a dremel wire brush and careful by hand wipe it across the tab of the regulator so as to allow the solder to stick better. Adding some soldering rosin to the tab before the solder itself can also helps to get things goin.
I should have mentioned that.
sorry

provels
09-27-2010, 04:59 AM
Many thanks to all. Between this thread and the one at AVSForum (which led me here), and $10 worth of parts, my 606 is back in action.

Would anyone know where we might be able to pull 12v DC so a PC fan could be added without the use of an external power supply?

spldart
09-27-2010, 10:22 AM
Many thanks to all. Between this thread and the one at AVSForum (which led me here), and $10 worth of parts, my 606 is back in action.

Would anyone know where we might be able to pull 12v DC so a PC fan could be added without the use of an external power supply?

Yes your in luck. The 606 chassis when in another configuration is used in a different model number of the same year lineup and in that unit a pair of fans was added. There is a 12 volt source that supplied those fans, the hdmi board at JL8001A, sirius dock terminal JL8002A, etc.
If I were you I'd tap the positive and negative leads of C9011 for fan power. And I'd add a resistor to keep the fan around 9 volts. also place a cap across the fan wires on the fan side of the resistor you add in series with the fan. The cap will suppress any noise the motor may introduce on the supply line. Resistor is to keep the fan nice and quiet by undervolting it. Select a fan that is under 100 milliamperes.
Beyond this please use your judgment and be careful. You can easily destroy sensitive electronics if your not competent to perform modifications like this.

By the way. If you do something wrong and all of a sudden your receiver wont turn on check the components on the tiny board on the secondary side of the power transformer. You likely opened a resistor there.
BE CAREFUL.

provels
09-27-2010, 04:23 PM
Thanks for the quick reply. Was this the 7xx or 8xx series? I suppose the case was modified to allow for the fans. I'd like to put in one of these (blowing down with a filter on the outside), NM can't post a URL., but it's a Yate Loon 120mm low speed that draws 300ma. The 80mm version draws 100ma. I have the 120mm in my DVR and it's tres quiet. Maybe I can tap 12v at 2 points and have 2x80mm, one blowing in/down on the hot stuff and the other exhausting.

EDIT - I made the same request over at AVSForum, and the OP suggested a point on the HDMI board. The AVSForum thread is 1246078/Page 3.

DOUBLE EDIT!! - See attachment, would this work?

spldart
09-28-2010, 05:27 AM
It would be easier but I'd be to concerned about introducing any noise to a supply line at the hdmi pcb. Onkyo seemed concerned about that 12 volt line as well as they took measures to isolate noise from it getting on the hdmi board. I'd tap for a fan at the aforementioned cap.
Your receiver. Your choice. ;)

provels
09-30-2010, 01:36 PM
Bleh, after breaking the receiver down to get to C9011, I can't get the solder to melt with a 30W iron. That should be enough, no? I'm not a chef, but I can folow a recipe. Well, actually, I was a chef...but I digress...

CZ_the_DAY
10-01-2010, 10:45 PM
Well 'Chef' provels, I don't know what type of tip you're using but you could try scraping it (while hot) to remove contaminants, re-wet it with fresh solder, and lastly apply some extra solder to the contact point at the moment you attempt to get the cap's pad to melt. The fresh solder/flux will help w/heat transfer, much like butter or oil help to fry :spam: . Failing that, you might not be seeing enough of those 30W at the tip (too narrow,etc) - something required for modern lead-free solder (ROHS!) Try to limit attempts to 4-7 seconds for the sake of the component - less for smaller items.

I applaud the better-safe-than-sorry advice given out by spldart in regards to minimizing additional current/noise to an already sensitive unit. AFAIK, the point I suggested is as close as you can get to C9011 but for the board-to-board connection.

provels
10-02-2010, 07:41 AM
At this point, I have abandoned trying to get the solder to take for fear of toasties. Besides, the weekend is here and family unit needs audio. At this point I have added a 120mm Yate Loon low speed fan from my DVR (where it really wasn't needed) cable tied to the inside of the case blowing out and powered by a 12V brick. Brought the temp down from 45C to 33C while watching TV and giving it a high power workout with "Starship Troopers" last night saw a max of 41C. Still really like to see the fan power automatically with the receiver. Maybe a thermistor controlled fan is the way to go with the brick, something like Antec Smart Cool 120MM. Hmm, maybe that Honeywell thermostat I pulled off my furnace...
Again, thanks to all.

spldart
10-02-2010, 08:42 PM
Ok.... I have two profesional grade soldering stations on my bench. One solders... the other desolders. Both are capable of at or exceeding 100 watts of heat but both are digitally regulated so as to make them delicate enough for smc work. I actually use both when heating the solder on the tabs of these regulators. I could get another higher powered iron but it works and they are sitting right next to me already.
I clean the tab of the regulator, I add some soldering rosin to the tab, I add some solder to the 'soldering iron'. I then bring that tip down to the tab and the pool of rosin and at the same time I bring the desoldering iron's tip down to the tab as well. I can get a fresh pool to work with in under 2 seconds. I have never damaged a regulator in the 100 plus boards I've done so far. I then add some more soldering rosin to the tab, and output pin, in anticipation of affixing the cap. I attach the cap to the single output pin first as this will hold the cap in place for the more difficult process of attaching the cap to the regulator's tab. I then pick up both irons and finish the job on the tab. BTW. Onkyo was using a different location for affixing the caps. I've noticed the latest boards I'm getting from onkyo are utilizing my location and attachment point. I don't know if I can claim any credit but it does make me smile.

burkshop
10-02-2010, 11:11 PM
feelin' noobish but i guess we all start out from the kiddie pool...been reverentially reading this thread and frankly am compelled ask if i should just cancel my as-of-this-evening purchase of an ONKYO TX-NR708. you guys are scaring me...

spldart
10-03-2010, 03:33 AM
feelin' noobish but i guess we all start out from the kiddie pool...been reverentially reading this thread and frankly am compelled ask if i should just cancel my as-of-this-evening purchase of an ONKYO TX-NR708. you guys are scaring me...

Keep a few things in mind.
A) as of this time I know of no issues with the 708
B) if onkyo had known about the stability of the regulators they would have added the caps to the board already and this txsr606, htr960, dtr5.9 issue and this thread would not exist.
C) this tech run an onkyo in his theater and is glad it's not a yamaha or a sony or a harman kardon etc etc etc.

No offense to sony, yamaha, denon, hk users out there ;)

BillyBud
10-27-2010, 04:03 PM
So what does this mean to us dummies? :lol:

I don't really know what the difference is between .1uf and 1uf other than 1 is greater than .1. But what I think you said was that when the repair shop goes to replace the parts that are in the bulletin they use what they are sent, and you are saying they didn't update the tech note, just sending beefier parts. What if the repair shop uses what they've got in stock and not the new, beefier ones Onkyo's sending out?

I just don't want to have to ship my receiver to the repair shop again and again.
How was your experience with carphonics? I may ship my receiver to them in the next week for the same HDMI issue. What service did they do? Has it all worked out and would you use them again?

GhettoSupersta
10-29-2010, 03:36 AM
:bowdown:Spldart: I was going to post my repair to your thread, but instead of double posting (due to me being so new, fresh and so clean here), here's the link:

http://www.highdefforum.com/high-definition-receivers-recorders-players-tivos/121956-repairing-onkyo-htr667-aka-606-a.html

Thanks for providing this thread, it really help me out a lot. Got back right with the misses :banana: and my son who was really anxious to play the Wii via component.

jakenbake
11-21-2010, 03:47 PM
well, i had the same problem as everyone else.

took a couple of resets of the receiver and warming up before it would switch 1080p. then it stopped all together.

did the replacement capacitors and the added leaded capacitors, no difference.

removed the leaded capacitors so that just the new 100uF caps were on (i used the 6.3V version of the caps) and 1080p swiches perfectly.

probably only a matter of time before I have to resolder some new cap on again.

oh, and before anyone mauls their white connector like i did, just pull the wires out instead of trying to remove the actual connector itself.

thanks for the info everyone!

edkern
12-04-2010, 07:46 PM
When making the repair will 5 x 100uf 4v surface mount capacitors and 4 x 1.0uf 64v film capacitors due?

Also I'm going to make a video on how to fix this problem to put on youtube. Would a 30watt soldering iron be alright to use on this?

Thanks for the help guys.

spldart
12-04-2010, 09:14 PM
When making the repair will 5 x 100uf 4v surface mount capacitors and 4 x 1.0uf 64v film capacitors due?

Also I'm going to make a video on how to fix this problem to put on youtube. Would a 30watt soldering iron be alright to use on this?

Thanks for the help guys.

30 watts would be feable to get those add on tf caps soldered to the tabs. You want higher power for a very short time.
a second or three of 100 watts would be more like it. Takes a 'nack'
Don't credit my username directly in the video... figure somehow to indirectly credit me. the others who have contributed can speak for themselves.

spldart
12-04-2010, 09:16 PM
The other caps could be done with a lot less wattage btw.. just be careful about lifting traces.

J BUSH
12-05-2010, 06:57 PM
My 606 was experiencing the HDMI switching problem until this morning when it finally died (no video signal to my projector). I have read the nearly 200 messages on this subject (HD forum & AVS forum) with several references to Onkyo Bulletins but I cannot find a copy of them. Can somebody provide me copies of these? I am not experienced with soldering micro-circuits and need to have somebody do this work for me so that I do not mess things up. Between the forum information and bulletins I hope to get my 606 together in time before the holiday.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

edkern
12-09-2010, 05:46 PM
Thanks guys, I replaced the 5 x 100uf surface mount caps, plugged the board back in, and it works great.

Before the fix it would not show component video or any of the OSD (including menus), and would take 5-10 min to get the signal from HDMI 1 through to the TV.

I have not however installed the 4 x 1.0 uf film caps yet. The only caps I was able to get were 1.0 uf 64v film caps. will it pose a problem if the casp are 64v instead of 50v?

spldart: no problem I won't mention your username specifically in the video.

edkern
12-10-2010, 04:49 PM
Here's the video I made. I only replace the 100uf caps in this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gj0x5S9ez5U

spldart
12-12-2010, 01:55 PM
My 606 was experiencing the HDMI switching problem until this morning when it finally died (no video signal to my projector). I have read the nearly 200 messages on this subject (HD forum & AVS forum) with several references to Onkyo Bulletins but I cannot find a copy of them. Can somebody provide me copies of these? I am not experienced with soldering micro-circuits and need to have somebody do this work for me so that I do not mess things up. Between the forum information and bulletins I hope to get my 606 together in time before the holiday.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

Sry. It's unlikely anyone will post information directly from the actual onkyo bulletins.. They, like most of the bulletins, are marked confidential. People with legit access could lose their authorization and their contract business.
Thus my making my own pictures of the board to paste here.

onthemark
12-12-2010, 02:30 PM
My 606 finally went on the blink as well, so I'll swap the 100uF and add 1uF. I noticed my HDMI board is an 'A' rev (25139473A-1) with two dots and '663' sharpied on Q282 and a Genesis Q8001. What am I missing in hardware/software compared to current revisions? Is it flash based so code can be uploaded (serial port beside hdmi out)? What are the chances of getting a salvaged newer replacement and would it be compatible with my unit?

spldart
12-12-2010, 04:10 PM
tx-sr606, and if I remember correctly the ht-r667 and 960 all have interchangable hdmi boards... The Integra DTR-5.9 board is nearly identical with identical cap failure but can't quite pratically interchange. Don't worry about any revision or board numbers on that board.
Any firmware upgrades done on the 606 and other vintage onkyo receivers are done via cd especially burned and played in certain players while hooked to hdmi 1 with receiver set especially.
Sry for the spelling. I'm tired :(
Good effort on the video edkern

rwonk
12-12-2010, 07:13 PM
Help! I performed the repair a couple of days ago with success. Unfortunately, today the fix went sour. Without notice, the signal would be lost intermittently and then went away for good. During the repair I thought that I may have lifted a pad on one of the 100 uf caps so I took another stab at it. I checked all of the solder joints and did my best to reseat the lifted tab (not completely broke off). When I put everything back together, I can no longer power the unit on as it immediately trips. In the process, I completely trashed the 5 wire connector going to the HDMI board.

I'm ready to drop-kick the unit in the 4 ft of snow we have recv'd the last week (it will be completely buried with the 1-2 ft we're expecting this week). I'm not ready to buy another receiver, especially when Onyko keeps coming up with the best ratings.

Any thoughts as to why the unit keeps tripping now? Can I buy just the HDMI mother board? Or should I offer it the unit to mother nature?

MikeMartell
12-13-2010, 11:34 AM
Is anyone aware of similar problems with the 886 ? If so which capicitors need changing ?

Thanks.

spldart
12-13-2010, 12:15 PM
Is anyone aware of similar problems with the 886 ? If so which capicitors need changing ?

Thanks.

If your under warranty get it into a service center... There is a bulletin on this unit... The caps are more numerous and much smaller.. Not sure I'd suggest a beginner try the repair... And your hdmi board is WAY more expensive increasing your risk substantially.

MikeMartell
12-13-2010, 03:34 PM
If your under warranty get it into a service center... There is a bulletin on this unit... The caps are more numerous and much smaller.. Not sure I'd suggest a beginner try the repair... And your hdmi board is WAY more expensive increasing your risk substantially.
Out-of-warranty. Apparently a factory refurb. The board is already non-functional so... if you have any more information on that bulletin I would love to see it. I'm not a beginner but would use some prudence once I see the board for myself.

Thanks.

MikeMartell
12-13-2010, 04:11 PM
Are we talking about surface-mount capacitors ? Yeah not sure I want to attack that . But armed with the right information I could farm it out locally to someone who could. I wonder what Onkyo charges to fix their own design flaws ?

rwonk
12-13-2010, 04:21 PM
Help! I performed the repair a couple of days ago with success. Unfortunately, today the fix went sour. Without notice, the signal would be lost intermittently and then went away for good. During the repair I thought that I may have lifted a pad on one of the 100 uf caps so I took another stab at it. I checked all of the solder joints and did my best to reseat the lifted tab (not completely broke off). When I put everything back together, I can no longer power the unit on as it immediately trips. In the process, I completely trashed the 5 wire connector going to the HDMI board.

I'm ready to drop-kick the unit in the 4 ft of snow we have recv'd the last week (it will be completely buried with the 1-2 ft we're expecting this week). I'm not ready to buy another receiver, especially when Onyko keeps coming up with the best ratings.

Any thoughts as to why the unit keeps tripping now? Can I buy just the HDMI mother board? Or should I offer it the unit to mother nature?

Update- had a "professional" touch-up my soldering but still no luck. Unit will not turn on and only hear a clicking from a relay near the power entry. Any ideas?

MikeMartell
12-13-2010, 05:27 PM
Update- had a "professional" touch-up my soldering but still no luck. Unit will not turn on and only hear a clicking from a relay near the power entry. Any ideas?
Yup you should give to Mother Nature. I know how to get hold of her ;) Seriously, sounds like a short of sorts. I don't know if these boards are multi-layered or not, I would have another look at that lifted trace. Assuming of course u didn't cross any wires on the power connector.

rwonk
12-13-2010, 07:15 PM
Yup you should give to Mother Nature. I know how to get hold of her ;) Seriously, sounds like a short of sorts. I don't know if these boards are multi-layered or not, I would have another look at that lifted trace. Assuming of course u didn't cross any wires on the power connector.

One last question before I give it the boot. I get the clicking even without the HDMI card plugged in. What gives?

MikeMartell
12-13-2010, 08:00 PM
You may have damaged something in the power supply. Dont take any of my advice here: if I could fix my own receiver I wouldn't be perusing this thread lol.

MikeMartell
12-14-2010, 11:36 AM
Update- had a "professional" touch-up my soldering but still no luck. Unit will not turn on and only hear a clicking from a relay near the power entry. Any ideas?
Re-read entire thread so as to not miss anything when I get my unit in my hands (please, my Onkyo) and found this nugget from spldart which may concern you...

By the way. If you do something wrong and all of a sudden your receiver wont turn on check the components on the tiny board on the secondary side of the power transformer. You likely opened a resistor there.
BE CAREFUL.
Maybe get your "Professional" to have a look there ?

MikeMartell
12-14-2010, 12:17 PM
Help! I performed the repair a couple of days ago with success. Unfortunately, today the fix went sour. Without notice, the signal would be lost intermittently and then went away for good. During the repair I thought that I may have lifted a pad on one of the 100 uf caps so I took another stab at it. I checked all of the solder joints and did my best to reseat the lifted tab (not completely broke off). When I put everything back together, I can no longer power the unit on as it immediately trips. In the process, I completely trashed the 5 wire connector going to the HDMI board.

I'm ready to drop-kick the unit in the 4 ft of snow we have recv'd the last week (it will be completely buried with the 1-2 ft we're expecting this week). I'm not ready to buy another receiver, especially when Onyko keeps coming up with the best ratings.

Any thoughts as to why the unit keeps tripping now? Can I buy just the HDMI mother board? Or should I offer it the unit to mother nature?
One more for you. This may or may not be the same symptoms your experiencing but...

From another thread...

Hello all....

I stumbled upon this thread when my 606 started exhibiting the same symptoms everyone has experienced.

I replaced all ten 100uF caps and added the four "jumper" caps for good measure. I've been soldering for many years and everything seemed to go well until I plugged the unit in.

When I plug it in I get the standby light, but when I push the power button, I get nothing but clicking. The relay clicking is the one on the power board. I can't see any stray bits of solder, or wire anywhere in the unit.

What... the.... heck... did... I... do....?
And then later on...

Well... I was just about to give up, since I have a new Denon on the way, when I found that sneaky hidden fuse sitting on the underside of the small PCB near the transformer. For some reason that fuse had blown. Popped in a replacement and all is well.
Good luck.

rwonk
12-14-2010, 08:14 PM
One more for you. This may or may not be the same symptoms your experiencing but...

From another thread...


And then later on...


Good luck.

Mike- You are the MAN!!!! Sure enough, the fuse on the small board attached to the transformer is blown! I'll give it a shot tomorrow! Stay tuned!

MikeMartell
12-14-2010, 09:59 PM
Cool. I'm just hoping spldart takes pity on me and shows me some love in regards to the contents of the 886 bulletin since I'm out of warranty. Shameless, I know :)

Post back how you make out.

Mike

rwonk
12-15-2010, 04:43 PM
Cool. I'm just hoping spldart takes pity on me and shows me some love in regards to the contents of the 886 bulletin since I'm out of warranty. Shameless, I know :)

Post back how you make out.

Mike

No luck, Mike. Replaced fuse and no I get absolutely nothing. Even offered some blood when I sliced open my finger on the housing. I'm done- it's going in the trash. Any recommendations on a replacement?

blitri
12-15-2010, 07:14 PM
I have had a similar problem with my TX-SR607 since day one. The OSD only worked for about 2 hours and then it was gone forever. Problem is I bought my unit in the US but live in Brazil and the warranty is void because it travelled overseas. Local authorized Onky service center wants to charge 1000 US dollar to replace HDMI board. Do you think replacing the capacitors will fix the issue with my 607?

Main problem the 606 is having are regulators goin unstable as the caps esr goes up after time.... Heat makes the caps weaker, regulators start oscillating and creating alot more heat, regulated voltage fails, hdmi no longer works properly. Two particular voltages on the hdmi/dsp pcb are at issue.. One 3.3v and the more common problem one a 1.8v one that supplies your video processor IC. The big IC on that board. The current official fix is to replace 5 100uf 4v sm caps and add 4 .1uf tf caps. I also tend to replace yet one more cap... A 22uf 4v sm cap as well. If this doesn't correct the hdmi issues then one can generally assume the unstable operation damaged one of the sensitive ic's on the board and the repair will be much more involved.
Just fyi

Edit.... This board is in another onkyo model and 1 integra model of the same year.
And a similar problem has cropped up in a couple models of the next year. (diff hdmi board.)
And I happen to use an onkyo in my home theater. Not everything they make is, well.. having issues.

MikeMartell
12-15-2010, 08:13 PM
No luck, Mike. Replaced fuse and no I get absolutely nothing. Even offered some blood when I sliced open my finger on the housing. I'm done- it's going in the trash. Any recommendations on a replacement?
Sorry to hear, bro. Wanna buy my Outlaw 990 ? Lol. Do you have the exact same symptoms ? Don't give up yet. Maybe spldart will make another appearance and hit you with a gem to help you out.

MikeMartell
12-15-2010, 08:19 PM
I have had a similar problem with my TX-SR607 since day one. The OSD only worked for about 2 hours and then it was gone forever. Problem is I bought my unit in the US but live in Brazil and the warranty is void because it travelled overseas. Local authorized Onky service center wants to charge 1000 US dollar to replace HDMI board. Do you think replacing the capacitors will fix the issue with my 607?
Ship it back to the USA and send it for warranty repair from there, assuming you know someone there... I would certainly try the repair, you stand a decent chance of repairing the unit should you do the repair correctly.

And why should they be charging so much money when the bulletin clearly states to replace capacitors and ONLY replace the board should the initial repair fail ? That is with the 606 anyway and I'd assume the same for the 607.

spldart
12-16-2010, 03:19 AM
Out-of-warranty. Apparently a factory refurb. The board is already non-functional so... if you have any more information on that bulletin I would love to see it. I'm not a beginner but would use some prudence once I see the board for myself.

Thanks.

You might have to give me a day or three for one of these types to cross my bench.... I wont post confidential onkyo 'actual' stuff. But I'm willing to post me doin one of their boards... I believe I got one of your type hdmi boards coming up sometime soon. IIRC You need 11 chip type caps... your upgrading these tiny chip caps from .1 to 1 uf. What's effected is the reon ic comunication to some memory or maybe it was buffer ic's... I can't remember off the top of my head exactly... These caps are 'tweezers' kind of tiny.

MikeMartell
12-16-2010, 07:22 AM
And these flaky chip-caps present the same symptoms as the 606, right ? Good, very good. Now I just have to google how to shrink myself like Rick Moranis lol. Eagerly awaiting any further info, pics etc...

MikeMartell
12-16-2010, 07:27 AM
By chance, does this version of daughterboard have a protrusion or shark "fin" on the side opposite the HDMI connectors ?

blitri
12-16-2010, 04:24 PM
Ship it back to the USA and send it for warranty repair from there, assuming you know someone there... I would certainly try the repair, you stand a decent chance of repairing the unit should you do the repair correctly.

And why should they be charging so much money when the bulletin clearly states to replace capacitors and ONLY replace the board should the initial repair fail ? That is with the 606 anyway and I'd assume the same for the 607.
Thanks Mike. I have thought about shipping it to my close friend in the US, but the shipping costs alone are way too expensive. Can you tell me if the 607's hdmi board similar to the 606's? Again, the OSD stopped working and the composite and component inputs don't work. Do you think that the problem will be fixed by replacing the capacitors?

MikeMartell
12-16-2010, 04:35 PM
Thanks Mike. I have thought about shipping it to my close friend in the US, but the shipping costs alone are way too expensive. Can you tell me if the 607's hdmi board similar to the 606's? Again, the OSD stopped working and the composite and component inputs don't work. Do you think that the problem will be fixed by replacing the capacitors?
I DO think replacing the capacitors and adding the new ones across the regulators will work because it sounds like your symptoms are the same as others who have fixed theirs this way. As in life nothing is gauranteed but if it's not working now what have u got to lose ?? No idea about the difference(s) between those two boards though... Maybe spldart will chime in for you.

blitri
12-17-2010, 09:30 AM
spldart, is the 607's board similar to the 606's? I will most likely try to fix it myself because most service centers here in Brazil are either uninformed or dishonest. Also, electronics in general cost at least twice as much in Brazil as they do in the USA because of taxes and logistics costs.

spldart
12-17-2010, 07:50 PM
spldart, is the 607's board similar to the 606's? I will most likely try to fix it myself because most service centers here in Brazil are either uninformed or dishonest. Also, electronics in general cost at least twice as much in Brazil as they do in the USA because of taxes and logistics costs.

the 607, as one would would expect, is a different design with more modern ic's.... But there is one regulator you want to do the mod to........ Just the one. And that's under certain circumstances... I'll hafta wait for the next 607 to cross my bench and take pics to post that too i guess.
Till then please wait patiently.. During the xmas season I'm TOTALLY SWAMPED and have little time to be mr helpful anywhere. hehe

jonathantompso
12-17-2010, 07:59 PM
I added the 4 1uF + 100uF caps. HDMI handshaking is now MUCH more reliable. Thanks so much everyone for the great information! I had almost given up on the receiver.

By the way, I didn't use ceramic caps for 1uF caps across the regulator output... I used some polarized tant. caps which are probably low loss enough for direct bypass. (By the way I'm an IC designer)

I'm also not convinced that 105deg caps are required. The ambient temp of the case doesn't get that high. Even the ground plane which the regulators use to heatsink is only slightly warm to the touch. If the HDMI board was closer proximity to the AB output stages of the audio drivers, I might be more worried. I think 85deg caps is even an overkill. I've done work on high voltage automotive IC where ambient temps are around 300 and we've even gotten away with low temp caps.

My only question is that the OSD is still not working. I checked all other VDD lines with an oscilloscope and all other regulators are OK... Is there a software reset that would fix the OSD no longer working? Does anyone have any other ideas?

spldart
12-18-2010, 06:27 AM
I added the 4 1uF + 100uF caps. HDMI handshaking is now MUCH more reliable. Thanks so much everyone for the great information! I had almost given up on the receiver.

By the way, I didn't use ceramic caps for 1uF caps across the regulator output... I used some polarized tant. caps which are probably low loss enough for direct bypass. (By the way I'm an IC designer)

I'm also not convinced that 105deg caps are required. The ambient temp of the case doesn't get that high. Even the ground plane which the regulators use to heatsink is only slightly warm to the touch. If the HDMI board was closer proximity to the AB output stages of the audio drivers, I might be more worried. I think 85deg caps is even an overkill. I've done work on high voltage automotive IC where ambient temps are around 300 and we've even gotten away with low temp caps.

\o/ I got a naughty post count.

My only question is that the OSD is still not working. I checked all other VDD lines with an oscilloscope and all other regulators are OK... Is there a software reset that would fix the OSD no longer working? Does anyone have any other ideas?

While power on press and hold display button and then press standby/power button. You are now looking at your Main firmware. Now if you press your tone > button once your looking at your DSP firmware. Continue pressing till you get to VD. What does it report. That's your video firmware. If it's ??????????? then your eeprom is corrupted. Onkyo has provided no way to flash them and does not sell the IC. We are forced to go board level for this repair. If you get an actual firmware version for VD then it may be your Q8001 is damaged. It's your video processor.
fyi. Those firmware displays are short duration and the unit will return to normal display if you don't move quickly enough on the buttons.

IIRC initialization (reset) can be performed by press and hold second input button ( I believe vcr/dvr button ) and then press power/stanby button with power on. Display will show 'clear' and unit shuts down. Unit will now act as it came right out of the box new. This process has been known to correct dsp problems but rarely fix anything hdmi related.

\o/ I gotta naughty post count.

MikeMartell
12-18-2010, 07:27 AM
Hey spldart, I'm going to ask just cause I see you've posted quite recently...

Anything on the 886 ? I've been in contact with Onkyo for out-of-warranty repair and they have not rebuffed me out of hand anyway. I'll report back how that progresses (or not).

\o/ I gotta naughty post count.
I hate to ruin that, lol

blitri
12-18-2010, 12:19 PM
While power on press and hold display button and then press standby/power button. You are now looking at your Main firmware. Now if you press your tone > button once your looking at your DSP firmware. Continue pressing till you get to VD. What does it report. That's your video firmware. If it's ??????????? then your eeprom is corrupted. Onkyo has provided no way to flash them and does not sell the IC. We are forced to go board level for this repair. If you get an actual firmware version for VD then it may be your Q8001 is damaged. It's your video processor.
fyi. Those firmware displays are short duration and the unit will return to normal display if you don't move quickly enough on the buttons.

IIRC initialization (reset) can be performed by press and hold second input button ( I believe vcr/dvr button ) and then press power/stanby button with power on. Display will show 'clear' and unit shuts down. Unit will now act as it came right out of the box new. This process has been known to correct dsp problems but rarely fix anything hdmi related.

\o/ I gotta naughty post count.
spldart, the video firmware on my TX-SR607 displays ????????????. I did an IIRC initialization, but my OSD still does not show and the component and composite inputs don't work. Previously you wrote that a mod to a specific regulator would fix these issues, but if my eeprom is corrupted will modding that regulator fix it?

I'm beginning to think that I'll have to buy a new HDMI board for my unit... How much would that cost me in the US?

MikeMartell
12-18-2010, 12:32 PM
I filled out the web-form on Onkyo's website and had an email exchange with a guy who asked me to explain the problem with the unit. Then he asked me to call Customer Support/Parts to see if they could help me further.

The are closed for the weekend but I'm wondering if I've just been punked or what ? Is this the normal procedure for getting something fixed out of warranty ? Dang.

Mitchell
12-22-2010, 03:28 PM
Ive had the hdmi video issue going on with my reciever for about five to six months now. I purchased my 606 approximatly two years ago or so as a refurb so im definantly out of warranty. I called onkyo in the past for this issue and got no help. Reading this thread today and knowing I have no sodering expierience convinced me to call once again. The customer rep wants me to send a copy of the reciept, the serial number, and explanation of the problem and he said he would see what they could do for service out of warranty. Luckily I had bought the unit from shop onkyo so they were able to pull up my reciept and email me a copy. They knew right away what problem was when i told them the model of the reciever so maybe this could help others also in the same situation.

spldart
12-23-2010, 11:02 AM
spldart, the video firmware on my TX-SR607 displays ????????????. I did an IIRC initialization, but my OSD still does not show and the component and composite inputs don't work. Previously you wrote that a mod to a specific regulator would fix these issues, but if my eeprom is corrupted will modding that regulator fix it?

I'm beginning to think that I'll have to buy a new HDMI board for my unit... How much would that cost me in the US?

Familiar with the 606 job from this thread? Yours only needs one red cap and one surface mount electrolytic instead of 4 each.

Locate Q8008. Mount the red thin film .1uf 50v cap on it just as shown on the 606 board.. Locate C8096. Remove and replace it with the same type 100uf 4v cap.
If this doesn't resolve you then send it in for service...
However. Isn't your 607 under warranty?

spldart
12-23-2010, 11:07 AM
Hey spldart, I'm going to ask just cause I see you've posted quite recently...

Anything on the 886 ? I've been in contact with Onkyo for out-of-warranty repair and they have not rebuffed me out of hand anyway. I'll report back how that progresses (or not).


I hate to ruin that, lol

I've yet to have a TX-NR905, TX-NR906, TX-SR875, TX-SR876, PR-SC885, PR-SC886, DTR-8.8, DTR-8.9, DTR-9.9, DTC-9.8, DHC-9.9 cross the bench since
I mentioned the possible fix for your unit. I'll need one to do so before I can illustrated how to fix.

MikeMartell
12-23-2010, 11:18 AM
I've yet to have a TX-NR905, TX-NR906, TX-SR875, TX-SR876, PR-SC885, PR-SC886, DTR-8.8, DTR-8.9, DTR-9.9, DTC-9.8, DHC-9.9 cross the bench since
I mentioned the possible fix for your unit. I'll need one to do so before I can illustrated how to fix.
Ok, thanks for that.

I have a good OSD but the best I can get via HDMI is a few seconds of audio from my sat box before it gets dropped and reacquired a few seconds later again. No video on any HDMI input.

BTW, Merry Christmas everybody.

Mike

blitri
12-29-2010, 05:44 AM
Familiar with the 606 job from this thread? Yours only needs one red cap and one surface mount electrolytic instead of 4 each.

Locate Q8008. Mount the red thin film .1uf 50v cap on it just as shown on the 606 board.. Locate C8096. Remove and replace it with the same type 100uf 4v cap.
If this doesn't resolve you then send it in for service...
However. Isn't your 607 under warranty?
Thanks again spldart. My 607 is still under warranty but the problem is that I bought it in NYC and brought it back with me to Brazil and Onkyo's warranty is void once one takes the unit overseas.

Gurpreetsa
12-31-2010, 01:22 AM
Hi first of all I would like to say thanks to everyone here. :bowdown:You guys saved my onkyo 667 I did the fix and I put 4 1uf caps and 4 100uf 35v radial caps in the regular locations and I got HDMI handshake back:yippee: before it would take hours to "warm" up. But, sadly I have no OSD or component over HDMI :confused:so I installed another 100uf on the front because that's all I had at the time. After reading some more I checked my VD firmware and it showed ????????????.:banghead: My question now is am I screwed or if I replace the left most 220uf cap or the remainder of the 100uf caps can I get component over HDMI back. Also if i can't does anyone know how much the board costs. :helpmeThanks once Again.


Sorry for long post and bad grammer.:error
Image courtesy of spldart

highdefforumDOTcom/attachments/high-definition-receivers-recorders-players-tivos/5292d1279037967-onkyo-tx-sr606-hdmi-switching-headache-u41_bottom.jpg

mikew123
12-31-2010, 09:25 AM
Replacing the 100 uf capacitors on the HDMI board seems to have fixed my HDMI switching issue, thanks.

I ordered HI-TEMP 100uf 10V caps from Digikey (565-3047-ND $0.98) They are leaded so I bend the leads and the caps where parallel to the board so that they were not too high.

I measured the 100 uf caps and they measured below 10 uf, definately damaged by the heat, and replaced another on a 1.8V regulator (I bought 6). I also measured the 220 uf caps and they were in the 10s of uf, damaged also.

I wonder if I should replace all caps that are way below their rated value?

Thanks again for the great repair information.

spldart
01-04-2011, 12:52 PM
Ok, thanks for that.

I have a good OSD but the best I can get via HDMI is a few seconds of audio from my sat box before it gets dropped and reacquired a few seconds later again. No video on any HDMI input.

BTW, Merry Christmas everybody.

Mike

An 876 is on my bench right now. (same hdmi board) I will take pictures of the mod and post them tonight.

spldart
01-04-2011, 12:58 PM
Hi first of all I would like to say thanks to everyone here. :bowdown:You guys saved my onkyo 667 I did the fix and I put 4 1uf caps and 4 100uf 35v radial caps in the regular locations and I got HDMI handshake back:yippee: before it would take hours to "warm" up. But, sadly I have no OSD or component over HDMI :confused:so I installed another 100uf on the front because that's all I had at the time. After reading some more I checked my VD firmware and it showed ????????????.:banghead: My question now is am I screwed or if I replace the left most 220uf cap or the remainder of the 100uf caps can I get component over HDMI back. Also if i can't does anyone know how much the board costs. :helpmeThanks once Again.


Sorry for long post and bad grammer.:error
Image courtesy of spldart

highdefforumDOTcom/attachments/high-definition-receivers-recorders-players-tivos/5292d1279037967-onkyo-tx-sr606-hdmi-switching-headache-u41_bottom.jpg


You got pass through and switching. But your eeprom is corrupted so your video processor is, for a lack of a better word, dumb.. without the instructions in the eeprom it doesn't know how to osd and you prolly don't have upconversion either. At this point be happy with what you got or you will need a new board. Onkyo doesn't sell the eeprom for the video section.
Price of the board is in this thread somewhere... IIRC 125 or maybe a bit more. Used to be over 260 bux.... But onkyo isn't likely to sell it to you. And there will be markup through a service center.

spldart
01-06-2011, 05:47 AM
An 876 is on my bench right now. (same hdmi board) I will take pictures of the mod and post them tonight.

Sorry. Distracted by a couple pretty girls. I'll get those pics up as soon as I can. :p

MikeMartell
01-06-2011, 08:32 AM
Sorry. Distracted by a couple pretty girls. I'll get those pics up as soon as I can. :p
Pics of the pretty girls ? Yup let's see those, too. :) Ummm... as long as the "pretty girls" aren't your daughters lol.

sparkyork
01-07-2011, 08:40 PM
hi everyone

got a 606 had it for 3 days and bought it for £120

ive been reading this and avs thread regarding replacing capacitors for the fix, ive got full hdmi working on all inputs, no component or composite and osd.
i was considering swapping the capacitors but ive just done the hold display button press standby and cycled over to vd where it says ??????

does this mean that changing capacitors is only going to prolong the life of my hdmi side of things and keep it working as it is, and ive got no chance of getting component and osd working through hdmi, or is it possible that changing the capacitors will bring this vd=??????? back to life or is my hdmi board dead on the component upscaling side of things??
ive pm splart as he seems like the one who knows, but only just done the vd=??????? thing so im thinking i need to return the reciever, or ask the guy for a descent refund to reflect its faulty state (it was sold as working perfectly)
if hdmi keeps working then this is still a cracking piece of kit specially if i can get a decent refund and change the capacitors anyway to pro long the life of the bits that are still working

any suggestions more than welcome

rich

sparkyork
01-08-2011, 12:37 PM
Anyone? What are the chances of component working with cap change, zero ?

jhawker23
01-10-2011, 03:05 PM
I don't know if this is the same problem as everyone else but I lost my blu ray player HDMI connection. It worked for over a year. It got flakey and now nothing.

I can take the HDMI cable from my cable box, connect it to the blu ray player (still connected to Cable/Sat which works on cable) and it gives me "no signal". After a couple of players and different cables, it all comes down to the combination of blu ray and the receiver. All players worked fine connected directly to the TV. All other connections to the receiver via HDMI (computer, cable box) work fine in any HDMI connection.

It was odd tonight, I just picked up a new sony bd player and on the first connection, it flashed on the screen, a few vertical lines showed up and it blanked out. Never to connect again after multiple attempts and multiple startup configurations.

Its taking all I have to not yank the thing out and throw it outside. I'm past frustration. I keep thinking I'll find some perfect combination but it isn't happening. Any reason it would only be the DVD connection??

I replaced the (4) 100UF 10V caps and still no go... Could the 1Uf 50V approach have anything to do with blu ray handshaking?

nezff
01-10-2011, 05:00 PM
You have a pm spldart.

sparkyork
01-11-2011, 06:20 AM
I'd definitely try the 1mf capacitors aswell, it seems that's the full repair that onkyo have been doing, I'm going to replace all my caps before I loose hdmi


I don't know if this is the same problem as everyone else but I lost my blu ray player HDMI connection. It worked for over a year. It got flakey and now nothing.

I can take the HDMI cable from my cable box, connect it to the blu ray player (still connected to Cable/Sat which works on cable) and it gives me "no signal". After a couple of players and different cables, it all comes down to the combination of blu ray and the receiver. All players worked fine connected directly to the TV. All other connections to the receiver via HDMI (computer, cable box) work fine in any HDMI connection.

It was odd tonight, I just picked up a new sony bd player and on the first connection, it flashed on the screen, a few vertical lines showed up and it blanked out. Never to connect again after multiple attempts and multiple startup configurations.

Its taking all I have to not yank the thing out and throw it outside. I'm past frustration. I keep thinking I'll find some perfect combination but it isn't happening. Any reason it would only be the DVD connection??

I replaced the (4) 100UF 10V caps and still no go... Could the 1Uf 50V approach have anything to do with blu ray handshaking?

ToddlerTN
01-11-2011, 10:57 AM
spldart, the video firmware on my TX-SR607 displays ????????????. I did an IIRC initialization, but my OSD still does not show and the component and composite inputs don't work. Previously you wrote that a mod to a specific regulator would fix these issues, but if my eeprom is corrupted will modding that regulator fix it?

I'm beginning to think that I'll have to buy a new HDMI board for my unit... How much would that cost me in the US?

Familiar with the 606 job from this thread? Yours only needs one red cap and one surface mount electrolytic instead of 4 each.

Locate Q8008. Mount the red thin film .1uf 50v cap on it just as shown on the 606 board.. Locate C8096. Remove and replace it with the same type 100uf 4v cap.
If this doesn't resolve you then send it in for service...
However. Isn't your 607 under warranty?
I think this is exactly what my 607 is doing. I typically leave it on all the time, but I turned it off before going on vacation for two weeks. When I got back, I had no analog-to-HDMI conversion and no OSD. After leaving it on for two days, it started working again.

My local Onkyo repair center is the absolute worst. Onkyo sent me this 607 last year as a replacement for a faulty 606 that still wasn't repaired after three months in the local shop. Now here we go again.

Spldart, are you an authorized repair center? If so, please PM me--I'd sure rather send my unit to you than trust it to anyone else. If it wasn't under warranty, I'd probably just attempt it myself.

blitri
01-11-2011, 01:37 PM
Thanks spldart. As soons as I get it done, I'll let you know how it went.

Just to be sure, on the Q8008 should I place a red thin film .1uf 50v cap or a 1uf 50v cap?

Thanks.

Familiar with the 606 job from this thread? Yours only needs one red cap and one surface mount electrolytic instead of 4 each.

Locate Q8008. Mount the red thin film .1uf 50v cap on it just as shown on the 606 board.. Locate C8096. Remove and replace it with the same type 100uf 4v cap.
If this doesn't resolve you then send it in for service...
However. Isn't your 607 under warranty?

jon s
01-11-2011, 07:50 PM
spldart,
I have an Onkyo TX-NR905 with an odd HDMI issue... Would be nice if you can point me in the right direction.

The HDMI input accepts video with no issues, but from my Pioneer BDP051FD BR player, it does not recognize any discrete audio signals (5/7 channel)... It appears as a 2-channel input which is then decoded as Dolby PLIIX. With my Denon DVD3930CI player, I get video but no audio from the HDMI input. With a Sony PS3, the receiver acknowledges the HDMI input and I get multi-channel outputs. With a Sony DVD player, it recognizes the DD 5.1 discrete signal with no issues... I have changed inputs, cables and reset the receiver with no luck.

I also have an Onkyo TX-NR906... When used for a couple of hours, the output will display multiple pink and green horizontal lines on the screen on the top half, the lower half is "snowy". It is like that on all inputs. Resetting the receiver does not work. If I leave the receiver off for a few hours, it will work like normal... until it acts up again...

I know Onkyos get hot... I have several inches of clearance on both units and they also have a big PC fan exhausting hot air from the right rear of the receiver. Right now, I have serious reservations about buying another Onkyo, especially when i see a lot of failures on different forums.... Thanks in advance.

Jon

blitri
01-13-2011, 10:57 AM
Please excuse my ignorance, but are polyester film capacitors the same as red thin film capacitors? Can they be used interchangeably?

Also, is tolerance significant when buying a capacitor? I am asking this because I am having a difficult time finding a red thin film capacitor to mount on my Onkyo 607's Q8008 regulator. (see post below by spldart)


Locate Q8008. Mount the red thin film .1uf 50v cap on it just as shown on the 606 board.. Locate C8096. Remove and replace it with the same type 100uf 4v cap.
If this doesn't resolve you then send it in for service...
However. Isn't your 607 under warranty?

WWWJD
01-14-2011, 07:15 AM
Just wanted to say thanks to all that provided the appropriate repair information for this problem (spldart, others)..

My problem began about 1 month ago, and I was getting really frustrated. Not only does this effect HDMI inputs, but I was having problems with the Wii and component inputs as well; taking forever to switch over (if at all). I guess the HDMI board didn't want to let go of the HDMI inputs properly, or on some level it handles the component inputs switching as well.

Digikey parts ordered:

PCE3867CT-ND; 100uF 10V Electrolytic - these were a little large but I managed. Should have stuck with a lower voltage.

P4675-ND; 1uF 50V thin films - the most difficult part of installing these was scraping through the varnish on the case of the regulators to get a good solder joint.

Took me about 2 hours and 3 Miller Lights for the repair. All is well.

Thanks again guys,
~Mark

blitri
01-19-2011, 10:36 AM
Familiar with the 606 job from this thread? Yours only needs one red cap and one surface mount electrolytic instead of 4 each.

Locate Q8008. Mount the red thin film .1uf 50v cap on it just as shown on the 606 board.. Locate C8096. Remove and replace it with the same type 100uf 4v cap.
If this doesn't resolve you then send it in for service...
However. Isn't your 607 under warranty?

spldart, I replaced the C8096 cap and mounted the red thin film cap on Q8008 as you indicated but my Onkyo TX SR 607 still did not work properly. The same problems persist: no analog video connections and no OSD. I just got fed up with this Onkyo unit and bought a Yamaha VX-R667. The Yamaha sounds MUCH better than the Onkyo and doesn't get nearly as hot. Thanks again for all your help.

whimbrel
01-22-2011, 04:08 PM
I posted what I *think* is a related issue in a new thread (that apparently I can't link to) asking if sr806 problems are the same as the sr606 problems talked about here.

Now it occurs to me that the experts in this thread might not read the whole forum. Would you guys mind taking a look?

Thanks!

mikew123
01-23-2011, 07:48 AM
I had same problem with blu ray (BD) as well as PC HDMI. Changing the caps fixed it :)

I believe the problem with the SR606 is worse 1080p/60 than 1080p/24. My PC and BD output 1080p/60 (60 frames per sec) when not playing movie and outputs 1080p/24 while playing the movie. The HDMI worked when playing BD movie but not during setup (Home on Sony BD). 1080p/60 requires more than twice the analog bandwidth than 1080p/24 at the HDMI switch IO, this must be the source of the problem and replacing the dried out Caps with new ones seems to have fix it for me.

It beats me why changing the power supply caps on the 1.8V supplies can make analog work so much better. Maybe the huge ripple on the supply causes a lot of signal edge jitter which can cause the higher speed digital signal to be incorrectly sampled some times.


I don't know if this is the same problem as everyone else but I lost my blu ray player HDMI connection. It worked for over a year. It got flakey and now nothing.

I can take the HDMI cable from my cable box, connect it to the blu ray player (still connected to Cable/Sat which works on cable) and it gives me "no signal". After a couple of players and different cables, it all comes down to the combination of blu ray and the receiver. All players worked fine connected directly to the TV. All other connections to the receiver via HDMI (computer, cable box) work fine in any HDMI connection.

It was odd tonight, I just picked up a new sony bd player and on the first connection, it flashed on the screen, a few vertical lines showed up and it blanked out. Never to connect again after multiple attempts and multiple startup configurations.

Its taking all I have to not yank the thing out and throw it outside. I'm past frustration. I keep thinking I'll find some perfect combination but it isn't happening. Any reason it would only be the DVD connection??

I replaced the (4) 100UF 10V caps and still no go... Could the 1Uf 50V approach have anything to do with blu ray handshaking?

Livermore-Dad
01-25-2011, 10:25 AM
Okay the good news is I fixed the hdmi switching and OSD, what a dream. I think the OSD died within months of owning the 606.

However I killed the DSP. Analog works, but DSP has no sound.

Questions.

I busted the white clip that holds the power/neutral wires so I soldered up another solution and believe I have 12+ and gnd correct (and again the receiver turns on and hdmi switching is fast and crisp.

Now I don't believe I have any solder where it shouldn't be, but wondered if anyone tracked down where folks kill the audio when doing this fix? I mean hdmi switching is working, nothing is shutting down, things seem to work, just no audio.

Oh ya, firmware shows fine on all devices, nothing with ????????

Thanks

And thanks "spldart" for the initial work and the assistance.

Now I just wish I knew how that 5 wire spring loaded connector worked before I tried to take it apart and totally hosed it :) BTW anyone have that part number or what that connector is called?

ScottyV
01-25-2011, 05:27 PM
Hi all, I'm new to the forum and in search of a bit of advice:

I picked up a 606 yesterday on Craigslist at a crazy price, knowing full well that the OSD had already gone on the HDMI inputs, but the inputs themselves work flawlessly. A friend who is an electrical engineer has offered to help me with the standard surgery to repair the unit, if needed.

The unit will be hooked only to a PS3, and to a 1080i plasma. Is it worth my time and effort to perform microscopic surgery on the receiver if I'm not concerned with upscaling or the OSD?

If the OSD has already gone, is it only a matter of time before the HDMI inputs take a tragically frustrating turn?

Would I get the same 7.1 audio signal with the PS3 connected directly to the tv with HDMI and all 3 components hooked together with optical cable?

Sorry about the long post. Like I said, I'm a noob with surround sound. Thanks in advance.

jabaam
02-02-2011, 02:34 PM
How in the world do you take the black cable out from that white spring loaded clip? I saw this post about releasing the wings on the long side and I'm using small tweezers to pull them away and even cracked one side too and all the time trying to wiggle the black cable out. Help plz... =)

joeracerx95
02-05-2011, 09:34 PM
You got pass through and switching. But your eeprom is corrupted so your video processor is, for a lack of a better word, dumb.. without the instructions in the eeprom it doesn't know how to osd and you prolly don't have upconversion either. At this point be happy with what you got or you will need a new board. Onkyo doesn't sell the eeprom for the video section.
Price of the board is in this thread somewhere... IIRC 125 or maybe a bit more. Used to be over 260 bux.... But onkyo isn't likely to sell it to you. And there will be markup through a service center.

spldart,

I did the cap thing and all my component inputs are working again. Whoo hoo! It's stuff like this that makes the Internet great.

My VD is ????????. Is the only thing I lose because of this the OSD and upconversion? I'm pretty indifferent to both of them if that's the only down side of a corrupt eeprom.

thanks

bigeric
02-09-2011, 04:44 PM
An 876 is on my bench right now. (same hdmi board) I will take pictures of the mod and post them tonight.

I'm sure glad I found this thread! My 876 is out of warranty and I'm getting a No Signal error on all HDMI inputs. HDMI output works fine. Component inputs work fine.

Will the capacitor thing fix this issue? Is the 876 HDMI board the same as the 606 or different?

Thanks!!!

MikeMartell
02-09-2011, 09:57 PM
I'm sure glad I found this thread! My 876 is out of warranty and I'm getting a No Signal error on all HDMI inputs. HDMI output works fine. Component inputs work fine.

Will the capacitor thing fix this issue? Is the 876 HDMI board the same as the 606 or different?

Thanks!!!
spldart hasn't been heard from in a while. I'm curious on what happened with that 876 myself.

Mike

rcpaton
02-10-2011, 02:49 PM
Yeah, I can definitely confirm those symptoms on mine as well...unfortunately i'm a month out of warranty...how much did they say it would cost to repair, Awol?
if you only a month out of warranty, call onkyo sales/support. they are VERY aware of the board problem. i was a couple of weeks out of warranty, talked to onkyo, they instructed me to take it to the local repair shop, and repair was done under warranty. good luck.

DaveJ
02-11-2011, 02:14 PM
I agree with rcpaton-If it is only a couple of months out of warranty, call them AS LONG AS YOU BOUGHT IT FROM AN AUTHORIZED DEALER. I had my 805 for just over 2 years when the DSP started acting up (loud pops). I had bought it from an authorized dealer and had the paperwork to prove it so they covered the repair completely (except for shipping).
dave

LlanoLonghorn
02-17-2011, 07:18 AM
2-16-2011
Dear Sir,
After several days of research I chose one of your products (TX-SR606) as the best available for the price range. I purchased (10-09-2008) it using several reviews from Amazon as my guide to satisfied customers. I use mostly the SAT TV HDMI input for 99% of our entertainment. After a few months it started taking longer for the picture to show up on the TV after being turned on. After about a year had passed it was a new ball game to turn on the equipment. First I had to turn on the AV Receiver (TX-SR606) several minutes (5 to 10) before the SAT Box and TV in order for the TV picture to come on at all. At this time not knowing if the problem was the Sat Box, TV or AV receiver I continued to use the unit with the modified turn on sequence. But then the problem became worse by not always working even with this sequence.

I started to trouble shoot the system in Oct 2010 by using the process of elimination. I plugged the Sat Box directly into the TV thus eliminating the AV Rec. Everything worked fine then picture came on TV as soon as Sat Box and TV were turned on. Thus the problem must have been the AV rec. all along. I then done some online research for similar problems with this receiver and much to my surprise I found that this was an ongoing problem with this model receiver. At this time I knew the warranty was close to expired (2yrs) but I called (Dec 1 2010) your warranty department. I explained the problem and they issued me a onetime warranty accommodation and had me send the unit to DTR repair center in Denver, CO. I included a problem description that the HDMI inputs were not working correctly.

I took the unit to the nearest UPS store and $74 later it was on the way to Denver. Approx 4 weeks later the unit was returned but not completely repaired, the DVD HDMI input still was bad. I called DTR and they had me return the unit. I talked to the repair tech and explained the problems with him. Another several weeks passed before it was returned.
The DVD HDMI input is still not working; the movie starts and continues to go black at various intervals for various amounts of time same as before.
Then I unplugged the DVD from the AV Rec and plugged it directly into the HDMI input on the TV and again everything works fine.

At this point in time I became VERY UPSET with the whole routine. I placed a call (1-16-2011) to your parts and service to explain the problem and wanted a different approach to solve this problem. I was informed that a discount of a $100 could be applied to the purchase of a new receiver but that in no way would a replacement be made since it is out of warranty. Why was a repair authorized and then since they cannot fix it you are not going to do anything?

This unit has a design flaw that has been well documented by other owners on several forums and since I have been a victim of this problem of your making I feel that the least you could do would be to replace it with a unit without this flaw if for no other reason other than for good public relations.
As of now I am not a very good ambassador for your company. Your products have had a very high rating before. Please consider my request and thank you for your time.
Enclosed are copies of the paper work that I have for this.


Yours Truly
Edward S*****

PS: A Complaint has been submitted to the NJ BBB also.

Will post any reply from ONKYO
Wish I had found this board before I bought this receiver.

aandk1997
02-17-2011, 01:36 PM
Glad to see I'm not the only one with tx-sr606 issues.

Purchased in Oct 2008. HDMI failed Nov 2009 and was warranteed repair. HDMI failed again Nov 2010 out of warranty, but onkyo agreed to repair....but had to be sent to michigan. Got receiver back in december, and it failed again january 2011. Onkyo said it was the repair centers problem and I had to send it back. The first two repairs, capacitors were replaced. When sent back the third time, I told them to replace the whole board, as capacitor replacement was a band aid effect. Just received receiver back a few days ago with a new board, and now the HDMI doesn't work at all. Sent an email to the onkyo rep i've been dealing with stating that I will not ship receiver for a fourth time to repair the same problems and want this forwarded to a regional manager. Odds are, they won't respond. Any suggestions as to further courses of action?? I will also be filing a complaint with the BBB.

monsterbucket
03-10-2011, 08:10 AM
Yesterday my 875 decided that it was no longer going to accept or send HDMI signals. I've been using it flawlessly for the past three years, passing input from a PS3, AppleTV and HD Tivo on to my Panny monitor.

Yesterday morning things were fine, then in the afternoon I got a call from my wife saying that the TV wouldn't show a picture. Sure enough, when I got home all three inputs showed NO SIGNAL on the front after a try at handshaking, and the OSD would not display on the TV.

So... I started searching forums and found this page and many others about HDMI board issues with the 606, but non on the 875.

I called Onkyo parts/service, they said that a replacement board retails for ~$1000. That's more than I paid for the whole unit new three years ago. Clearly I don't want to go that route.

They also said they have a trade-in program for refurbished units that carry a 1 year warranty, but for an 808 it would be $450 plus shipping and for a 1007 it would be $560 plus shipping.

I found this video by Ed youtubeDOTCOM/watch?v=gj0x5S9ez5U that inspired me to post here to see if anyone thought a similar operation could be performed on my unit. It would be great to be back up and running for $30 instead of the $450 minimum trade-in or $1000 replacement board option.

anyone know?

LlanoLonghorn
03-28-2011, 05:24 PM
2-16-2011
Dear Sir,
After several days of research I chose one of your products (TX-SR606) as the best available for the price range. I purchased (10-09-2008) it using several reviews from Amazon as my guide to satisfied customers. I use mostly the SAT TV HDMI input for 99% of our entertainment. After a few months it started taking longer for the picture to show up on the TV after being turned on. After about a year had passed it was a new ball game to turn on the equipment. First I had to turn on the AV Receiver (TX-SR606) several minutes (5 to 10) before the SAT Box and TV in order for the TV picture to come on at all. At this time not knowing if the problem was the Sat Box, TV or AV receiver I continued to use the unit with the modified turn on sequence. But then the problem became worse by not always working even with this sequence.

I started to trouble shoot the system in Oct 2010 by using the process of elimination. I plugged the Sat Box directly into the TV thus eliminating the AV Rec. Everything worked fine then picture came on TV as soon as Sat Box and TV were turned on. Thus the problem must have been the AV rec. all along. I then done some online research for similar problems with this receiver and much to my surprise I found that this was an ongoing problem with this model receiver. At this time I knew the warranty was close to expired (2yrs) but I called (Dec 1 2010) your warranty department. I explained the problem and they issued me a onetime warranty accommodation and had me send the unit to DTR repair center in Denver, CO. I included a problem description that the HDMI inputs were not working correctly.

I took the unit to the nearest UPS store and $74 later it was on the way to Denver. Approx 4 weeks later the unit was returned but not completely repaired, the DVD HDMI input still was bad. I called DTR and they had me return the unit. I talked to the repair tech and explained the problems with him. Another several weeks passed before it was returned.
The DVD HDMI input is still not working; the movie starts and continues to go black at various intervals for various amounts of time same as before.
Then I unplugged the DVD from the AV Rec and plugged it directly into the HDMI input on the TV and again everything works fine.

At this point in time I became VERY UPSET with the whole routine. I placed a call (1-16-2011) to your parts and service to explain the problem and wanted a different approach to solve this problem. I was informed that a discount of a $100 could be applied to the purchase of a new receiver but that in no way would a replacement be made since it is out of warranty. Why was a repair authorized and then since they cannot fix it you are not going to do anything?

This unit has a design flaw that has been well documented by other owners on several forums and since I have been a victim of this problem of your making I feel that the least you could do would be to replace it with a unit without this flaw if for no other reason other than for good public relations.
As of now I am not a very good ambassador for your company. Your products have had a very high rating before. Please consider my request and thank you for your time.
Enclosed are copies of the paper work that I have for this.


Yours Truly
Edward S*****

PS: A Complaint has been submitted to the NJ BBB also.

Will post any reply from ONKYO
Wish I had found this board before I bought this receiver.

3-28-2011
Thanks to a mutual agreement this issue has been resolved to my satisfaction. I would recommend ONKYO products to anyone.

bmninada
04-30-2011, 10:06 PM
Hi,
1. I did the cap replacement, etc. but while taking off the daughter board I broke the black power wire (GND-12V-GND-12V-GND). How do I do a replacement for it? There's not much wire left for me to strip it and where it's connected, i.e. the board below I hate to touch it fearing I'll tear it too.

2. The bottom plate I see an issue. The 2nd. from right 100 uF which you're suggesting replacing is MISSING altogether from my board. I tried to add some solder to the points it's not even taking it. It's a FACTORY board 1st. time opening it.

3. Top side, right beside the chip called DSP there's a oblong shaped component. Mine looks like it's completely blown with black gel-like almost solid stuff all around it. What can I do?

4. Just below it (pt. 3 above) there's an electrolyte cap, then a processor and another very small cap. The processor has a cap between the terminals stating 50V (?? uF). Do not understand why.

ANY help for these above, highly appreciated. Mine's NOT a refurb unit.

Loves2Watch
05-01-2011, 08:39 AM
3-28-2011
Thanks to a mutual agreement this issue has been resolved to my satisfaction. I would recommend ONKYO products to anyone.

Excellent, that is good news to hear!

bmninada
05-01-2011, 10:14 PM
Hi,
1. I did the cap replacement, etc. but while taking off the daughter board I broke the black power wire (GND-12V-GND-12V-GND). How do I do a replacement for it? There's not much wire left for me to strip it and where it's connected, i.e. the board below I hate to touch it fearing I'll tear it too.

2. The bottom plate I see an issue. The 2nd. from right 100 uF which you're suggesting replacing is MISSING altogether from my board. I tried to add some solder to the points it's not even taking it. It's a FACTORY board 1st. time opening it.

3. Top side, right beside the chip called DSP there's a oblong shaped component. Mine looks like it's completely blown with black gel-like almost solid stuff all around it. What can I do?

4. Just below it (pt. 3 above) there's an electrolyte cap, then a processor and another very small cap. The processor has a cap between the terminals stating 50V (?? uF). Do not understand why.

ANY help for these above, highly appreciated. Mine's NOT a refurb unit.

I fixed the Pt. #1, i.e. broken cord issue.
Pt. #2, i.e. the missing cap, I let it be as-is
Pt. #3, I let it be as-is, i.e. blown cap or transistor.
Pt #4, I removed the cap.
Only when I removed the Pt. #4 did I get HDMI back and everything works fine.

Additionally, post everything, I blew the fuse located on the underside of the small PCB attached to the transformer. It seems there are some more folks here who had the same issue, i.e. the particular fuse blown. Thus, if post remedial actions if someone finds that strange click-click sound, check the fuse. It's a 5A/125V fuse, readily available in Radio Shack.
This means even without Pt #2 cap, things work

bmninada
05-01-2011, 10:20 PM
I had filed a complaint with NJ BBB against Onkyo for this particular model. Onkyo should issue a formal recall notice. After all my fixes, my EEPROM is shot (VD showing ?????????) and thus cant get OSD or component video out. Once again it seems it's a very common problem with this model. Somewhere, someone suggested Onkyo replacing this model with TX-SR608, which btw has quite a few registered HDMI upconversion issues. Frankly, I am slowly coming to a conclusion that most probably Onkyo may not be a good reliable product or has horrible QC department or it lacks quality engineers.

jon s
05-24-2011, 05:27 PM
has anyone heard from spldart? He has not posted in a looonnng time...

spldart
06-11-2011, 02:04 PM
I have been..... distracted of late.

ToddlerTN
06-26-2011, 02:20 AM
I have been..... distracted of late.
Glad to see you back. Any chance I could hire you to replace the caps on my SR606?

ghhowell
07-29-2011, 11:22 AM
My local radio shack has 100uf 35V Caps...can I use those?

ghhowell
07-31-2011, 07:42 PM
Went ahead and gave the above caps a try...5 caps an hour later my receiver is back up and running smooth! :) thanks all!

sighrus
08-10-2011, 03:46 PM
I know this is an old post .....but, I had the HDMI daughter card replaced under warranty and I was wondering if this will fix the OSD and VD showing up as ????????

spldart
08-23-2011, 12:32 PM
I only do work for the place that employs me. Location of it and me. "Can't say"

jon s
08-31-2011, 11:16 AM
SPLDART, you were going to tell us on what caps need replacing on the 876/906 boards... is it still possible? Any tips?

MojoNixon
09-09-2011, 03:36 PM
I seem to be having the same issues everyone else is having in this thread, except that only my ps3 is affected. I've tried different cables into each of the receivers inputs and my ps3 takes well over 15 minutes to show up on screen. I have a DVR and Apple TV connected that work perfectly in either input. I've also tried it with a fat PS3 and a new slim. I have no clue what could be wrong between ps3s and the Onkyo TX-SR606.

wgj
09-16-2011, 10:52 PM
I just want to thank everyone for the info on this fix. I just did the repair tonight, changed out the 100uF caps, and added the 1uF. My 606 is back to working like new.

The connector on the black ribbon cable was a challenge....but the post about it being spring loaded....push down and pull out did the trick.

To get the old caps out a bit of gentle rocking back and forth, and then putting a small jewelers screwdriver between the cap and the black base, and working it around worked great for me.

porscheman
09-23-2011, 11:59 AM
Any one hear back from spldart on the 876/905 boards?

fahdrb
10-05-2011, 12:32 AM
erm , guys, i might be acting really think here, but I went through the whole thread .... is there somewhere the instruction (of what to add and what to replace etc) given clearly like a guide that i can follow ?

cheers for the help

porscheman
10-09-2011, 01:10 PM
this is the best single post i have found for the 606 repair. doesnt help me with a 905 much, but might help you

w. avsforum ./avs-vb/showpost.php?p=19406942&postcount=93

gotta add the ww at the beginning and a com as im not allowed to post urls yet


w.

maeslin
10-10-2011, 01:43 PM
I'm looking into doing the capacitor replacement mod on my TX-SR606 mostly as a precautionary measure. The HDMI inputs still work okay tho the handshaking is gradually taking more and more time.

Has anyone thought of or tried replacing the 100uF electrolytics with 100uF low-ESR tantalum caps? They're somewhat more expensive but are far FAR more reliable and long-lived than electrolytics. Looking at some of these right now: Digikey 399-5141-1-ND

scott9982
10-30-2011, 11:31 AM
After doing tons of research, I just managed to SUCCESSFULLY repair my TX-SR876 HDMI issues by replacing the 100uF 4V capacitors on the video board. I learned of the success people had repairing the 606 by replacing the 100uf caps, which appeared to be identical to the ones utilized on the 876 board. However, I couldn't find an example where someone had actually tried the fix on an 876. I figured I had nothing to lose by trying, since the HDMI inputs were all but useless. I had to wait 30 minutes before the receiver would recognize an HDMI signal. Most of the time i simply received a "NO SIGNAL" message.

There are 13 of (what appear to be) the same 100uf 4V caps on the 876 HDMI board. 5 on the top and 8 on the bottom side. I replaced each of them with high-temp 100uF 16V caps I purchased from parts express.

After reinstalling the board and crossing my fingers, low and behold, SUCCESS! HDMI sync and switching works just like the day I bought the receiver. SO happy. :D

muscal
10-31-2011, 03:41 PM
After doing tons of research, I just managed to SUCCESSFULLY repair my TX-SR876 HDMI issues by replacing the 100uF 4V capacitors on the video board. I learned of the success people had repairing the 606 by replacing the 100uf caps, which appeared to be identical to the ones utilized on the 876 board. However, I couldn't find an example where someone had actually tried the fix on an 876. I figured I had nothing to lose by trying, since the HDMI inputs were all but useless. I had to wait 30 minutes before the receiver would recognize an HDMI signal. Most of the time i simply received a "NO SIGNAL" message.

There are 13 of (what appear to be) the same 100uf 4V caps on the 876 HDMI board. 5 on the top and 8 on the bottom side. I replaced each of them with high-temp 100uF 16V caps I purchased from parts express.

After reinstalling the board and crossing my fingers, low and behold, SUCCESS! HDMI sync and switching works just like the day I bought the receiver. SO happy. :D

Glad to hear this worked out for you. I haven't soldered before but i'm going to spend the weekend and try this. It's ok to replace with 16v caps? doesn't make a difference? Thanks

dstaff
11-06-2011, 08:30 PM
Greetings.. I'm new to this forum but have been combing through this thread with great interest. I've got an HT-R667 with the Dreaded HDMI switching issue. Was looking at doing the soldering work to fix it, but ran into another issue before I even started.
I removed the HDMI card (very carefully) to get a better look at the caps to be replaced. Then re-installed it without doing any work so I could still us it to listen to FM and iPod. Unfortunately I no get no audio.. at all , not from speakers and not from headphones. The unit powers up but there is no audio, and no video at all (I at least had non-HD video from my CBL/SAT) no it only says "no input".

I decided to go ahead with the repair at this point as I could not make it worse.. (I was right) I've replaced all the suggesed 100uF cap, ((but not added the 1uF ceramic caps...I was initially following instructions from a video that did not show that part) I'm picking up the 1uF caps tomorrow).

So the question is can anyone tell me why just pulling and replacing the HDMI card would kill all audio? and do you think adding the 1uF caps will fix it?

I have checked all fuses I can find and none are blown. (I could only find 3)

And for what it's worth I followed spldart's instructions from another post to check the DSP and VD firmware versions to see if all was ok there. DSP gave me a valid firmware version and VD gave me ?????????? as expected before the fix.

Any other suggestions would be most welcome..
Thanks

leshric
11-07-2011, 07:46 AM
Getting ready to do this repair and I noticed that some people mention replacing a single 22uf (or is it a 220uf?) cap in addition to the 100uf's. Which cap are they talking about? Is this necessary or is it the consensus that replacing the 100uf's and adding the 1uf's to the regulators is sufficient?

Thanks!

dstaff
11-12-2011, 09:15 PM
Update: Got Audio back after finishing the mod's to the HDMI board. But I still have zero video...

New Update: Went over all solder connections and discovered a pad lifted from the board. Fortunately I found the schematics on-line and was able to find a new connection point for the one lead. The one and only Cap with the broken pad was the one on the top side. a centimetre from the cap in question is a test point (tp15) that is on the same connection line as the pad. My father-in-law is the one with the soldering (and schematic reading) skills so he was able to run a new lead from the cap to the test point.

I still do not have OSD but HDMI switching works, and I can now watch an HD source without having to wait for the system to warm up.

Also, it should be noted that I was unable to source the new 1uF ceramic caps locally, so we canabalized an old VCR and used 4 0.1uF ceramic caps instead.

Put everything back together and Voila.. it all worked.. (with the exception of the OSD)

RIRed48
12-01-2011, 11:01 AM
Yesterday I tried to install our brand new Roku XD2 movie-streaming device. Our Onkyo TX SR606 would not 'see'/recognize it. I know the Rokyu is working, as I connected to the Pioneer Plasma TV directly and it was fine. The problem with hooking it up that way is that I have to use the TV's speaker, rather than my A/V system speakers... not acceptable. Of course, I'm out of warranty, as this is the first time I've hooked up a new device to this rig since the day back in 2008 when I set up everything.

Our system:
Pioneer #5010 Plasma
Onkyo TX SR606 A/V Receiver
Panasonic Blu-ray player
Cox Cable box
JBL and Polk speakers

This seems to be an extremely common problem, and so one would think they would take care of this known issue with no charge to owners.

Brian in RI

canoecrasher
12-03-2011, 03:16 PM
This thread is a great source of information! Do you mind solving one (hopefully easy) puzzle?

I have an SR606, it has been exhibiting the common symptoms. HDMI will not come on for 20 minutes or more on turning on the unit or switching inputs. Sometimes unplugging and replugging the HDMI connector helps - sometimes not.

I ordered the recommended parts on digikey, and found a friend with a soldering iron (and the skill to use it).

When I opened up the box, I found this. It does not exist on the other pictures I've seen. The unit has not been repaired or refurbished to my knowledge, I have had it for years.

There is an extra capacitor (50v, 10uf) soldered over Q272. It has a big white puddle under the top. Is this glue? Or has this cap failed? I am a novice here, I don't know.

Does anyone have any ideas?

CR

gt5oh
12-04-2011, 08:47 PM
This thread was the reason I signed up for this forum.

I purchased a TX-SR606 in Nov of 2008.

My setup is

Samsung HDTV

HD Cable Box
Wii
Xbox 360

Everything is running HDMI into the receiver except the Wii which is component.

The only thing that works is the HD Cable Box. Everything else either is sound only or does not work at all.

I have to power cycle a ton of times for it to try and connect and it rarely does. This problem is very annoying.

What are my options? I have seen people in this thread try to repair myself but that is beyond my skill level.

Thanks

onkyo706
12-06-2011, 10:37 PM
I tried uploading them as attachments but resolution is diminished. Lets see if this will be helpful or if I need to do a bunch of emails. I'm in the middle of a move so I don't have much time for the net right now.

Electrolytics are 100uf 4v - the little cans with the sharpy dots on them.

Added caps are thin film 1uf 50v - the red chicklets on top of the regulators.

and remember.. no matter how good a job you do this will only fix about 66% to 75% of units with hdmi problems.
Oh and take a look at those regulators before you start.. if they have a 480xx number then try it. if they have a BAxxx number then this prolly wont help.
I'm doing this from memory so sorry for any slight errors.
Would you happen to know which capacitors I would need to replace on a sr706 or how I can figure that out?

Poeseer
12-14-2011, 10:44 PM
Good day Sport fans.
A/V Receiver :Onkyo TX SR806
Symptoms:
Sound would have a very loud spike then no audio or video from cable/sat or PS3. After turning the system off and on no video or audio from the cable/sat or PS3. Tuner would have audio for 5minuts and then the load audio spike then no audio. No OSD display. Reset to factory settings did not help.

Service,
Changed (12) 100 uF 4v caps and (2) 100 uF 16v caps to 100 uF 25v Aluminum Electrolytic Caps.
Checked all solder joints on the Caps, the polarity and all is good.

Test
First start up after 5min OSD on the Samsung display. Samsung will show HDMI/Avi resolution numbers but no audio or video when I switch to PS3. The HDMI/Avi resolution will be displayed every 2mins. Then I could not get the OSD to be displayed anymore. No audio/video from cable/sat or PS3. There is no issue if I connect the PS3 directly to the TV. The tuner will now be on and no more loud spikes.

Next step?
Should I replace the 100 uF 25v Aluminum Electrolytic Caps with 100 uF 4v conductive polymer solid Cap? How can I test the daughter board, I have a decent multimeter or is mine one of the unlucky 25% not fixable boards?

Heinz5657
12-18-2011, 03:32 PM
I'm brand new but wanted to relate my experience and get some help if possible. On my TX-SR506, I used GhettoSuperSta's procedure and replaced the 5 100uF caps and added the 4 1uF caps (even though I didn't see these recommended in other posts !?).

Well, I'm either one of the 30% that aren't successful ... or I messed something up. After the fix, I got nothing. in fact, when I hooked my flat screen to the receiver on HDMI1, HDMI1 disappeared as an in put option whenever I turned on the receiver !! When I shut off the receiver, HDMI1 again appears on the source options for the TV ?

I removed all the caps I added / replaced and hooked the receiver back up to the TV. The HDMI1 phenomenon was still happening when I turned on the receiver. Does this mean that even after removing the caps, something is still wrong with the HDMI board ? Or do I need to redo the caps and then the board will work ?

When I display the firmware versions, I get VD ???????????????. Again, does this mean my board is toast ?

Thanks for any help you can give this poor soul. :confused:

I'm on the verge of ordering a Denon.

Jscopus
02-24-2012, 07:16 PM
Appreciate the yeomans work by everyone on this thread. Sort of a quandry- Sent some blistering letters to Onkyo. Waited a couple weeks, said the heck with it, will do it myself. Got the parts, easily removed the board with all the great tips, and gently removed the capacitors. Next AM got a letter from Onkyo saying they would authorize one out of warranty repair if the unit has not had "misuse or abuse". So I am assuming they will say you went into the unit and we will not touch it. But on the converse they did not reply in a timely fashion and I can be a prick if need be. But I said, I don't feel like paying to ship it. I don't feel like driving the hour, will just fix it. So in a bit of a rush (my wife's B-Day) I solder everything in. Did not take the old solder off the board or the old leg remnants, but though I had pretty good contacts (have dabbled with electronics for 30 years going back to Hafler amps/pre-amps, auto ECU units with good success. Brought it home and reconnected everything and just get a blue screen. Bad solder joint? Had no problem other than failed handshaking. No OS menu issues, etc. Something terribly wrong or just clean off the old solder/legs and redo? I have 5 extra caps. I guess I could pull everything off and take it to the repair center and tell them I already did some of their work by taking the caps off?? Should not matter to them unless something else is screwed up. Thoughts? Thanks in advance for your time.

Jeff

binchie
03-04-2012, 09:03 AM
Many thanks to all. Due to the excellent contribution from people on this an another forum, I did the repair, on my 606 and replaced 5 x 100uf capacitors with 100uf 25v units. From having to wait 20minutes for a picture to come on and no OSD, it connects in seconds and I have the OSD.
A mate also gave me his 606 to use for parts, so I did this one with the same result!! Bonus!!
I have a couple of questions, if anybody would be willing to take the time to reply.
1. As the guy in the shop said they were 105c caps, I never checked and now I did check, they are 85c caps. Is it worth changing to 105c caps?
2. I could not get the 1uf 50v none polarised caps. Do I need these? I understand that if I donít put them in, then the problem will occur again, is this true?
On another note, after looking through the forums it was suggested that if you look for the VD number and got ?????????? then the eeprom was shot. My mates 606 that I repaired with the above fix showed VD ?????????????????? before I did the repair. After I had fitted the 5 x 100uf caps, I checked the VD Firmare and it not showed VD 1.20 etc. So by fitting the caps, this can resolve the ????????????? issue. Hope I may have contributed a little to this thread by adding this.

binchie
03-05-2012, 06:31 AM
Can somebody tell me if the following is correct to use 'Ceramic non Polarised Monolithic Capacitors 1uF 50v'?
I've read the term 'film' but didn't know if the above was the right capacitors to use for the long term fix.

CapriSparx
05-01-2012, 11:47 AM
Hi new to all this but have been trying to get to the bottom of my issues with the hdmi on my tx-sr875 the issue appear very similar to those of the 606, but my component out seems fine (well osd is fine) but with it on any hdmi source it seems the receiver is seeing the input as it will change from NO SIGNAL to HDMI THROUGH (or what ever set) when plugged in and out etc but no image on tv screen if I enter the osd when in an hdmi source the tv screen try's to display it but it is very grainy at the bottom and flickers between grainy and the actual osd pic at the very top, my question is the board in this has these very same 100uF 4v caps and very similar regulators as the 606 does would you think a similar approch could solve this issue as I really love this receivers sound and other functionality and it would be great to get the hdmi switching/scaling back any ideas any body??

iwfur25
05-03-2012, 06:45 PM
I just got my 3.5 yr old 606 working properly again. It had been connecting to the DVR fine but taking up to 2 hours to connect with the Xbox, Wii (upconverted), and the PC.

I got some 5000 hr 10v caps (standard not surface mount) from Mouser and replaced all the 100uf, the one 220uf that I had seen mentioned, and added the 4 1uf ones on the voltage regulators. I even managed to tear 2 of the solder pads right off the board but was able to solder onto the traces that were left behind. :banana:

Sure beats buying a new receiver!

Plow Boy
05-15-2012, 07:21 PM
Hi to all, I have a Onkyo TX-SR806 that is around four years old. For the past few months it has started not being able to switch from one hdmi to another. The sound coming will crackle and pop; it will take an extremely long time to for audio and video to come up. I've tried using all the hdmi ports with no success, is this the same problem occuring with the 606's? I would like to know what capacitors need to be replaced on my hdmi board since it is a little different than the 606 model. Thanks for your help.

replica9000
06-09-2012, 09:47 PM
My 606 is having issues, and is at the point of no longer tolerable. Before I buy some capacitors and track down a soldering gun, I want to make sure my problem is related to the caps.

I don't seem to have any problems switching HDMI sources, and it takes about 2-3 seconds at most. These are my problems:

- No OSD most of the time, just a blue screen.
- Sound and video will cut out, sometimes just sound, or just video. Sometimes for a split seconds, sometimes for a few seconds.
- Composite input will only display a blue or snowy screen with sound. I have to power cycle a few times to get picture.
- The newest issue, I'm starting to get horizontal lines around the bottom half of my picture.

I just want some input to see if my issue is related to the caps, or my unit is worse off than that.

replica9000
06-10-2012, 10:15 PM
I was ready to swap my old receiver in place of the 606, but first I wanted to rule out the HDMI cable. At first I thought that was it, and it was working great. 20 minutes later issues returned. Definitely seem to be the receiver is to warm. Took the cover off to let the heat escape more, seems to be working better now. Still have the issue with composite having no video until a power cycle.

rscotta831
06-20-2012, 10:38 AM
spldart, I replaced the C8096 cap and mounted the red thin film cap on Q8008 as you indicated but my Onkyo TX SR 607 still did not work properly. The same problems persist: no analog video connections and no OSD. I just got fed up with this Onkyo unit and bought a Yamaha VX-R667. The Yamaha sounds MUCH better than the Onkyo and doesn't get nearly as hot. Thanks again for all your help.
For the TX-SR607 owners out there, I also had no analog video connections and no OSD. This was after I accidentally left my stereo cabinet door closed for several days in a row. I usually always left it open for some heat dissipation. Worked for a year and a half that way.

I successfully repaired mine by replacing all five 100uf 4V 85 degree caps with 100uf 10V 105 degree caps (digikey part# 565-3047-ND)

and all five 470uf 16V 85 degree caps with 470uf 16V 105 degree caps (digikey part# 493-1522-ND)

The 1uf 50VDC red thin film caps (digikey part# P4675-ND) were on backorder, but replacing the 10 caps above solved my problems. Since those 10 fixed it, I'm choosing not to add the 1uf 50VDC red thin film caps to the regulators unless my unit fails again.

I've no clue if replacing the five 470uf 16V 85 degree caps were necessary, but since my refurbished unit had obvious solder signs that those five caps had been replaced previously, I went ahead and replaced them with 105 degree caps to be on the safe side.

Since the obvious problem for the old caps was heat, I went ahead & ordered a controlled-speed dual fan setup off of ebay to sit on top of the receiver:

Search ebay for "Receiver/Amplifier dual-cooling fans/air-chamber bases" Or search the ebay seller "drmckenzie" If he doesn't already have what you're looking for, he can custom-make any fan setup you want.

Thksnow
06-24-2012, 01:48 PM
Deleted

Thksnow
06-24-2012, 01:53 PM
This thread is a great source of information! Do you mind solving one (hopefully easy) puzzle?

I have an SR606, it has been exhibiting the common symptoms. HDMI will not come on for 20 minutes or more on turning on the unit or switching inputs. Sometimes unplugging and replugging the HDMI connector helps - sometimes not.

I ordered the recommended parts on digikey, and found a friend with a soldering iron (and the skill to use it).

When I opened up the box, I found this. It does not exist on the other pictures I've seen. The unit has not been repaired or refurbished to my knowledge, I have had it for years.

There is an extra capacitor (50v, 10uf) soldered over Q272. It has a big white puddle under the top. Is this glue? Or has this cap failed? I am a novice here, I don't know.

Does anyone have any ideas?

CR

I have the same board configuration as you. I think it's glue on that capacitor as mine only has it on the side (between it and the board), not on the top of the capacitor as yours does.

Did you do the capacitor replacement discussed in this thread and on the You Tube video? Was it successful? I'm just starting this project right now, so was wondering if you had done it. I'm still trying to get the cables connected to the board off without breaking anything, as there are unfortunately very few comments about that on the forum (and none in the video).

Hdale85
06-29-2012, 12:25 AM
Hi guys, I have a TX-SR805 and I'm having pretty much the identical issue mentioned throughout this thread. When I have my HTPC hooked up during boot the image is all green and snowy, after it's booted it just displays all snow screen can't see any of the OSD from the HTPC. I can run the HTPC at 1080i60 and 1080p24, as well as other devices but if I up it to 1080p60 I get snowy screen.

I'm curious if the 606 fix will work on the 805? Are the parts different? Obviously this is way out of warranty so I'd prefer to just fix it my self. Any help is greatly appreciated.

ieGod
07-21-2012, 05:12 PM
I was having issues similar to those reported in this thread with my Onkyo TX-SR607; intermittent OSD and analog upscaling/conversion from composite and component sources.

I took a quick trip to Sayal and picked up five 100uf 35v caps, rated to 85C, electrolytic. The replacement of five 100uf 4v SMT capacitors on the bottom of the HDMI PCB did the trick. They're slightly bigger and bulkier than the originals (ok a lot) but they work. I now have OSD and analog upconversion/upscaling from both composite and component sources (cable tv and wii, respectively). My HDMI connections seem in good order as well.

Since the 607 board varies from the 606 (all 100uf caps are on a single side) I thought I'd share some images to illustrate their location.

Edit: Turns out I can't actually link to the images without posting five times :/


The trickiest part was disconnecting the black ribbon cable that attached to the board via two white connectors, which were impossible to separate. Instead I simply pulled the cable out of the mating connectors (exposing the leads) and slid them back in upon reconnection. I thought I might have hosed it but the connection was fairly solid on reconstruction.

In any case things seem good and if it ever goes again I know the fix is fairly easy. All said and done preparing the caps and soldering took less than five minutes, but the prep work and inspection to make sure I didn't fuck anything up took a good half hour to an hour.

Edit 2: Pics time!

Old vs new caps:
http://stoldark.com/images/onkyo_607_repair_01.jpg

New caps installed:
http://stoldark.com/images/onkyo_607_repair_02.jpg

Falkoholi
10-20-2012, 11:57 AM
Hi there,
I'm from Germany and have searched for information about the HDMI-Issue @ my Onkyo TX-SR606...
As there are different ways to solve this problem I looked also @eBay for professional help/information...but the one @ eBay/de was not very kind and would not be helpful to me, as he heared that I will do it on my own.
But I've found "davehtuc" @ eBay/com :banana: he's a great man and will help professional if you won't be able :helpme to solder this f**cking issue away by your own...

But also thx to everyone here in this forum you all were helpful and inspiring for me :yippee:

blobula
11-03-2012, 11:46 PM
I just purchased an Onkyo 606 and it looks like it may have issues as discussed in the pages I've read on this thread, but wanted to make sure.

1. I reset the receiver to its factory settings.
2. I have an hdmi cable running from my project to the HDMI out on the receiver
3. I have an hdmi cable running from my blu ray to my receiver

The OSD menu will not display and I don't get any type of sound from the speakers/signal from the blu ray player.

Am I screwed, or am I missing a setting on the receiver?

Of Onkyo doesn't fix it and I have to fix it myself which capacitor would be best to get?

aim-n-shoot
11-15-2012, 08:19 PM
Hi All

Just my little bit of an update . My amp had the hdmi touch of doom. So I opted to go for the fix which seem to have worked a treat.. I now have vidoe 1080p and OSD this dispite the fact i get VD???????. The question i have is I cannt seem to find the caps show in the other posts. I have managed to find 1uF 50v Metallised Polyester (PET) Capacitors can i use these instead o or can I use 0.1uf 50v Metallised Ceramic Plate Capacitors. Or do they have to be the ones specified.

OK an update, the fix seems to work on the video side. but I get sound through the TV speakers, as I have pass through enabled. but no sound at all from the sround speakers.I have checked the joints and there seems to be no unwanted solder. I would add that I ended up using the 1uF 50v Metallised Polyester (PET) Capacitors in the end.

Any ideas, or has any one come across theis before.

I would like o sort this out before i attempt to repair the second 606 i have.

yakideo
11-18-2012, 06:04 PM
This thread seem to be the excellent thread about onkyo hdmi board repairs. I've bought a SR607 with the switching/OSD fault and will attempt to repair the unit as soon as I receive it.

As I understand some board revisions have voltage regulators made by ROHM, which don't need the addition of a filter cap. Wouldn't it be better to to replace the Toshiba caps with the ones from ROHM, as it seems they are less likely to oscillate.

Also does anyone have the (body) size of the original SMD caps for the SR607?

yakideo
11-18-2012, 06:17 PM
Hi All

Just my little bit of an update . My amp had the hdmi touch of doom. So I opted to go for the fix which seem to have worked a treat.. I now have vidoe 1080p and OSD this dispite the fact i get VD???????. The question i have is I cannt seem to find the caps show in the other posts. I have managed to find 1uF 50v Metallised Polyester (PET) Capacitors can i use these instead o or can I use 0.1uf 50v Metallised Ceramic Plate Capacitors. Or do they have to be the ones specified.

Just replace them with the 1uF 50V ones. I read somewhere that onkyo replaced the caps that are shipped to service centers to 1uF ones. They just didn't update the bulletin.

You say you get VD???????. Can you check if the upscaling/component works? As I understood the VD??????? means you have a corrupted video eeprom.

wetinoregon
11-20-2012, 06:49 PM
I am another victim of the 606 HDMI issues. I have followed and read through this thread carefully.
My receiver is 3 years old and has had this issue for at least 1.5 years. I have ignored it and bypassed the hdmi functions until now.
I finally decided to fix it and opened up the unit to inspect and remove the HDMI board for repair.
Before removing the board I noticed one of the 220uf caps tilted. When I touched it it just flopped over. Solder connections were gone. As I looked around and gently touched the other caps included the 100uf ones, they all popped off with the smallest of touch. Even the regulators when touched slightly came off the board.
It appears to me this board was subjected to a great deal of heat eventhough it does not show any discoloration.
My question at this point is...Have any of you other forum folks experienced or seen the same on your HDMI board? I don't even know if it is worth trying to fix at this point. so many loose items now.
I can't imagine this was due to defective soldering but maybe.
Interested in anyones feedback. I believe it overheated as this receiver does run very hot and was in a small cabinet.:banghead:
this unit might be headed for the garbage can. What a bummer.

yakideo
11-20-2012, 07:04 PM
I am another victim of the 606 HDMI issues. I have followed and read through this thread carefully.
My receiver is 3 years old and has had this issue for at least 1.5 years. I have ignored it and bypassed the hdmi functions until now.
I finally decided to fix it and opened up the unit to inspect and remove the HDMI board for repair.
Before removing the board I noticed one of the 220uf caps tilted. When I touched it it just flopped over. Solder connections were gone. As I looked around and gently touched the other caps included the 100uf ones, they all popped off with the smallest of touch. Even the regulators when touched slightly came off the board.
It appears to me this board was subjected to a great deal of heat eventhough it does not show any discoloration.
My question at this point is...Have any of you other forum folks experienced or seen the same on your HDMI board? I don't even know if it is worth trying to fix at this point. so many loose items now.
I can't imagine this was due to defective soldering but maybe.
Interested in anyones feedback. I believe it overheated as this receiver does run very hot and was in a small cabinet.:banghead:
this unit might be headed for the garbage can. What a bummer.

Can you post a picture? If the solder pads aren't damage go ahead and replace the caps and resolder the regulators. If the regulators are trashed you could try to replace them. I think the regulators are in a DPAK (TO-252) package.

When the caps go bad the ESR increases, causing the regulators to oscillate with in turn causes even more heat being generated. Also when the regulators are oscillating they begin to output dodgy power witch makes the HDMI chips to go mad.

When replacing the caps choose high quality ones with low ESR.

wetinoregon
11-20-2012, 07:49 PM
I'll post a pic tomorrow but repair i believe is to much at this point. There are over 25 pieces that have just fallen off including those tiny micro diodes.
I am thinking a replacement board or garbage.

WishinItWas
12-04-2012, 07:59 PM
Hello all,

First off thanks to the community for this thread.

I followed the suggestions here an replaced the x5 111uf 4V caps on the daughter board. Unfortunately I had peeling of the pads when removing the old ones, one peeled off about 95% leaving only a sliver of a corner of the pad left on the board.

I replaced the rest anyway and plugged it in to see if it was salvageable. I have picture, OSD of the settings, handshake is right on point, the only and MASSIVE issue is that I have zero sound.

I tried sound over HDMI and Optical with no success. I even went to the speaker settings where what sounds like wind plays over the individual speakers while adjusting db levels... nothing.


I didnt have high expectations for this but now im just disappointed that everything else seems to work. Any ideas? ??

Edit: I factory reset the receiver and still no sound. Would plugging in the mic for room calibration initiate the setup?

aim-n-shoot
12-05-2012, 01:11 PM
Just replace them with the 1uF 50V ones. I read somewhere that onkyo replaced the caps that are shipped to service centers to 1uF ones. They just didn't update the bulletin.

You say you get VD???????. Can you check if the upscaling/component works? As I understood the VD??????? means you have a corrupted video eeprom.

Upsacling works not sure about component as I dont have an devices using these out puts

Update used an old sky box with the components connection cand can confirm, for me at least, upsacling works.

AT_NUPE
12-05-2012, 01:17 PM
Hello all,

First off thanks to the community for this thread.

I followed the suggestions here an replaced the x5 111uf 4V caps on the daughter board. Unfortunately I had peeling of the pads when removing the old ones, one peeled off about 95% leaving only a sliver of a corner of the pad left on the board.

I replaced the rest anyway and plugged it in to see if it was salvageable. I have picture, OSD of the settings, handshake is right on point, the only and MASSIVE issue is that I have zero sound.

I tried sound over HDMI and Optical with no success. I even went to the speaker settings where what sounds like wind plays over the individual speakers while adjusting db levels... nothing.


I didnt have high expectations for this but now im just disappointed that everything else seems to work. Any ideas? ??

Edit: I factory reset the receiver and still no sound. Would plugging in the mic for room calibration initiate the setup?

WishinItWas I am in the SAME exact boat. I have everything working as far as video is concerned but no AUDIO! I've seen previous post where people had an issue with the black 5-pin power connection and others referenced the 3 white connectors on the right-side of the board that connects to the rest of the DSP stuff. Please let me know if you figure out what the problem is!!!

Note: I can actually get audio with the radio using the "Direct Mode" or can have the sound sent though the receiver to the tv using PCM mode.

aim-n-shoot
12-06-2012, 01:41 PM
Hello all,

First off thanks to the community for this thread.

I followed the suggestions here an replaced the x5 111uf 4V caps on the daughter board. Unfortunately I had peeling of the pads when removing the old ones, one peeled off about 95% leaving only a sliver of a corner of the pad left on the board.

I replaced the rest anyway and plugged it in to see if it was salvageable. I have picture, OSD of the settings, handshake is right on point, the only and MASSIVE issue is that I have zero sound.

I tried sound over HDMI and Optical with no success. I even went to the speaker settings where what sounds like wind plays over the individual speakers while adjusting db levels... nothing.


I didnt have high expectations for this but now im just disappointed that everything else seems to work. Any ideas? ??

Edit: I factory reset the receiver and still no sound. Would plugging in the mic for room calibration initiate the setup?


Yep same issue with mine , i soldered the 5 black wires connected to the while block that provid power onto the PCB board to get it working again.
hope it helps.

WishinItWas
12-14-2012, 09:31 AM
Yep same issue with mine , i soldered the 5 black wires connected to the while block that provid power onto the PCB board to get it working again.
hope it helps.

I have yet to have a chance to break it down again, but this will be my next move. did you remove the block to solder the wires? Would hard wiring them be a, less convenient/ ideal, but "Better" solution?

aim-n-shoot
12-17-2012, 12:15 PM
I have yet to have a chance to break it down again, but this will be my next move. did you remove the block to solder the wires? Would hard wiring them be a, less convenient/ ideal, but "Better" solution?

I just soldered to wires to the back of the connect, from the understide. But i suppose the neater way would be to remove the connecter.

rumpity_z28
12-29-2012, 07:23 PM
well im glad i found this thread because my 606 did the same thing crapped out. funny thing was i forgot to mark which uf100 caps had to come out and before i new it i had taken a couple out that i shouldnt have haha. only have six replacements i just soldered what i had removed back in and voila it up and running again, ill have to pick up some more the next time im in town and finish replacing all of them. but for now its all happy for the last hour

aim-n-shoot
01-12-2013, 04:44 PM
I have yet to have a chance to break it down again, but this will be my next move. did you remove the block to solder the wires? Would hard wiring them be a, less convenient/ ideal, but "Better" solution?


HI Mate,
I removed the block and soldered them direct. However my reason for removing the nblock was to carry out a cooling mod, as i noticed that the amp ran really hot. I mean i could heat the room with it hot.

As you can see from this picture
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8515/8373822451_d1740b0b32.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61132976@N02/8373822451/)
IMAG0003 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61132976@N02/8373822451/) by aim-n-shoot (http://www.flickr.com/people/61132976@N02/), on Flickr


I then soldered on a fout pin fan plug. to the correct terminal. If you look closely you can just about to see the wires soldered on the underside.
I am not surewhat affect drawing the power from this point will have. In the end if the amp dies it just means i can get a new one:yippee:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8221/8374897542_5df505be88.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61132976@N02/8374897542/)
IMAG0005 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61132976@N02/8374897542/) by aim-n-shoot (http://www.flickr.com/people/61132976@N02/), on Flickr

Better picture

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8366/8373824869_afcb9a3d35.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61132976@N02/8373824869/)
IMAG0006 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61132976@N02/8373824869/) by aim-n-shoot (http://www.flickr.com/people/61132976@N02/), on Flickr

Then mounted the fan onto the case.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8220/8373859915_7b8fa93072.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61132976@N02/8373859915/)
IMAG0007 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61132976@N02/8373859915/) by aim-n-shoot (http://www.flickr.com/people/61132976@N02/), on Flickr

and soldered the female end to the under side.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8098/8374896236_897d2f15a6.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61132976@N02/8374896236/)
IMAG0004 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61132976@N02/8374896236/) by aim-n-shoot (http://www.flickr.com/people/61132976@N02/), on Flickr

I then put the amp back to gather again and it has been work for the last 4 hour with no issue. The case is a lot cooler and it is really quite you cannt ever hear it with the sound turned down.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8505/8374932600_ac0322febc.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61132976@N02/8374932600/)
IMAG0009 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61132976@N02/8374932600/) by aim-n-shoot (http://www.flickr.com/people/61132976@N02/), on Flickr

malibu7
01-16-2013, 03:17 PM
Would you happen to know which capacitors I would need to replace on a sr706 or how I can figure that out?
My 706 is suffering from the issue and progressively getting worse. Anybody clarify parts for the 706? Do the 606 and 706 share the same HDMI daughterboard?

WishinItWas
02-02-2013, 10:37 PM
Just wanted to follow up with some big thanks for the help form this thread. After removing the clip and direct soldering the daughter board I now have mt receiver fully functional!!

jdubau55
02-07-2013, 07:03 PM
My issue is like others here. I HAD HDMI switching issues maybe a year ago. I came across a nice YouTube video that detailed it was the caps on the HDMI board. So I followed that guide and VOILA perfect switching again. Everything has been great since then.

Last night, after returning home from house sitting a few days, I went to turn on our HT. I got nothing. TV said Check Signal Cable. WTF. So jiggling all the cables and nothing.

Come to find out I am having the issue others have had. I get sound through HDMI because I can hear the PS3 start up jingle through the HT. My TV then puts an error about the Anynet device is screwy. So I am getting some signal through. I just have no video. I also don't get the setup screen to show.

What is the issue here? Are there other components besides the caps that go bad creating this issue?

I have also left the receiver running "warming up" now for probably 20 minutes while I searched, wrote and posted this. Still no video.


Edit: Must have been a cable issue. Came home today and receiver was at room temp. which is around 50*. Turned on the TV which then gave the receiver a handshake to turn on. It did what it was supposed to and came on and the HTPC showed up like normal.

Still boggled on why the same cable works fine on a different setup.

OK...left it off to cool down for a while about 20 minutes. It still felt a little bit warm but not at operating temperature. Turned it on and it worked right away. Could it be a cabling issue? Why would the same cable work from the Roku to the bedroom TV? Could it be certain pins are messed up that the Roku to TV doesn't use?

I have a new HDMI cable on the way from Monoprice. I will test from dead cold with it to see. The upstairs gets pretty cool because its heated with a space heater when we are up there. Will have to see what it's like from being about 40-50 degrees.

Edit: tonight I was going to see if I could get optical audio so I can at least get some SS. So optical worked with the PS3 and my HTPC. So I started switching cables around. All of a sudden I was getting video over HDMI. So I swapped out the output cable. And I am getting video again. Bring the "bad" cable downstairs and it works on the bedroom TV with the Roku. I am also getting OSD. I don't know if it just had been on longer with time to warm up or what. I turned it off to cool down so I can see if that is the issue. If it works after it warms up what is it? I have already replaced I think 4 or 5 caps going by the video. Would more go bad? I used caps from Radio Shack. Unsure their spec but I remember the video gave me the exact P\N.

OnkyNO
02-18-2013, 03:21 PM
I have successfully fixed my SR606 thanks to the info here. Thanks for everything all!

spldart
04-11-2013, 07:02 PM
Wow! This thread is still goin strong :hithere:

spldart
04-11-2013, 07:09 PM
I'll post a pic tomorrow but repair i believe is to much at this point. There are over 25 pieces that have just fallen off including those tiny micro diodes.
I am thinking a replacement board or garbage.

I've seen this in one Onkyo. One of hundreds of 606's i've worked on. It's a wave soldering failure. Manufacturer defect.

ravs261
06-08-2013, 12:16 AM
Spldart,

I'd also like to send thanks for the fix. I got a 606 from a friend who was throwing it out. After a new fuse, I'd realized that the hdmi wasn't working. Didn't want to wait so I went to radioshack, and used these:

5x 100uF 35v Electrolytic Caps
4x 0.1uF 50v Ceramic Disk Caps

Placed them as required and turned it back on and the hdmi works! (Except an Acer monitor, but that thing is a POS and doesn't work with anything)

Only question is this, the OSD and the up-conversion doesn't work (both with HDMI and component/composite). I was wondering if it had to do with the wrong caps (using ceramic instead of thin film)? Or possibly the fact that I lifted one of the traces on C8096? Since there was little left to attach the trace back I used a logic safe probe to figure out which leg of the rectifier the trace led to and bypassed the trace by attaching the leg of the capacitor directly to the leg of the rectifier (also happens to be the leg where the 1.0uF cap is supposed to connect). Is this okay? Or did I bypass something else in the circuitry as well?

Here's a picture of the back (sorry highdef wouldn't let me upload the full size photo for more clarity, probably cause I'm a n00b lol).

6759

Any help is appreciated. And anyone else still wondering, yes it'll work with parts from RadioShack, but I plan on going back and using the right parts eventually.

P.S. would replacing anymore of the caps on the hdmi daughterboard restore OSD or upconvers?

neilfreeze
06-12-2013, 07:23 PM
irst, my only major complaint, and the reason for only 4 stars. There is no printed manual supplied with this receiver. All you get is a quick start guide that's a few pages long, enough to get you running, but sorely lacking in any real information. I posted a URL to the user manual I found in the comments.

The product pictures are accurate, and the speaker connections in the back fit common banana plugs perfectly. Included accessories are a remote (with batteries), a microphone for the automatic speaker configuration (haven't tried this since my rear speakers aren't placed yet), and AM and FM antennas. The AM antenna is cheap but works well enough. The FM antenna is just one of those little wires and it sucks. If you do any serious FM radio listening, you'll want to acquire a better antenna to use with it.

The OSD is a little primitive, but it looks decent enough and gets the job done. Pandora works well, the setup of it is easy, again the interface is a little primitive but it works, and I won't usually be using it anyway.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077V88W2/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0077V88W2&linkCode=as2&tag=nativetaste-20

drblank1
07-19-2013, 10:31 AM
Hi All, I'm a brand new member. Thanks for all the info on this thread. I have the HT667 from Onkyo and about 2 years ago, it start showing same signs as everyone else here. I found if I let it "warm up", it would eventually switch on the HDMI outputs. But I found as time went on, it took longer and longer to "warm up". Last week, I was up to about an hour before it would work. My wife said she had enough and to fix it or buy a new one. So being the cheapster I am, I decided to fix it.

I made the minimum repair with the five 100uf caps and the four 1uf caps on the regulators and now I have the hdmi switching again. I can instantly see my blu ray and hopper hdmi inputs now. thank you again.

But I still cannot get my Component, Composite, or OSD to work. Is there more I should have done to get it 100% again? Also, the 1uf caps were polarized. Does that matter? I noticed most were using non-polarized caps.

Thanks,
Dennis

WBA
07-26-2013, 05:01 PM
I too am a new member, but an oldtimer to stereo and surround.
I am a warr service center for the past 38yrs for several manufactures.
After having an issue with a Onkyo TX-SR806 similar to the ones described, I replaced the caps as described in previous posts.
Only to have a short lived success.
After applying freeze spray to several components, I found I could accelerate the problem, which happened to be the low voltage regulators on the board.They were the 3.3v (which was reading 2.7v)
When heated with a33w soldering iron, it would rise to almost 3v and everything would work well. There was another reg on the board, a 1.8v , but it seemed to be holding it's own.
Changed out the 3.3v reg with hot air tools and everything was fine.
This also solved my OSD issue.
I have service manuals for almost all Onkyo products, so if anyone needs one, feel free to ask.

In closing, I bounced around the site to see what's going on, I like what I see...........keep up the good work Mods !

bbaydar
08-13-2013, 03:24 PM
Thanks for all the great info in this thread. I have a 608 that has been dropping the video signal occasionally, so I thought it might be the cap issue described.

After opening it up there are only 3-4 100mf caps on the HDMI board and they're already 16v ones, so I don't know if they're just starting to fail or something else is going on.

I did take the opportunity to hack a couple of old CPU fans in there to move some air around in the lower part of the casing while it was opened up.

archer36
09-28-2013, 12:49 PM
Hi all, I replaced all the caps with Panasonic FM capacitors but it didn't seem to help. Still no audio or video. In addition the display doesn't show "HDMI" even when on an HDMI input.

Also I tried doing the VD test, but when I scroll past the DSP firmware, I don't even see a section for VD. Anyone know why the VD section might be missing?

Evilbetty
12-15-2013, 01:18 AM
Question, I've been through this thread and there is a ton of good information, but I want to double check some stuff.

Mine is a TX-SR607. About a month ago it started turning on but I was getting no signal from any of my components until the receiver "warms up" after a few minutes, then the picture will suddenly appear and work fine with all components, until I shut it down and it cools off.

Is this the cap issue? If so where are you guys buying your caps with the lowest total price + shipping?

Thanks!

oshima
12-30-2013, 10:02 AM
hi there!!

first of all, this is an excelent thread and congrats to the community!

i'm from protugal and i bought a second hand onkyo sr607.
the ebay seller told that the receiver was having compatibility problems with is TV.

the tv says invalid format, wich is diferent from no signal.

i've been reading several threads about this issues regarding onkyo receivers, and no one said a thing about invalid format.
i need to know to start looking for the parts and repair the HDMI board, if it requires.

the receiver havent arrived yet, so i'm just trying to understand if i is a fault, bad config or compatibility issues.

sorry for bad english but i'm a litle rusty

Evilbetty
12-30-2013, 04:01 PM
Not sure anyone's still monitoring this thread. Posted on 12/15 and nothing!

The message difference you are seeing could be due to translation, but even if it's not, it could be the same issue. I'd check your TV manual for the meaning of that message since it's your TV, not the receiver displaying that message.

Mine displays a message similar to that, in addition to the no signal message as it warms up and eventually gives me a picture.

oshima
12-31-2013, 02:24 AM
Question, I've been through this thread and there is a ton of good information, but I want to double check some stuff.

Mine is a TX-SR607. About a month ago it started turning on but I was getting no signal from any of my components until the receiver "warms up" after a few minutes, then the picture will suddenly appear and work fine with all components, until I shut it down and it cools off.

Is this the cap issue? If so where are you guys buying your caps with the lowest total price + shipping?

Thanks!

for what i've been reading it is the cap problem.
caps that are failing usualy start working when warmed up.

if you have the skill or know some one who have, buy 100uf 6.3V (or higher V) and replace them all. it might solve your issues


i don't have the receiver yet, but i like to get the most information before doing something

oshima
01-03-2014, 05:24 AM
hi guys,

anyone knows if the failing hdmi board makes the tv say "invalid format"?

oshima
01-10-2014, 05:57 AM
hi guys,

anyone knows if the failing hdmi board makes the tv say "invalid format"?

hello guys,

the receiver arrived on monday. after a reset on the receiver and TV everything started working like they should.

it looks like the ebay seller wasn't able to understand that the "invalid format" was due bad configuration on the tv or receiver.

anyway, it is working fine, with HDMI switchng working like a breeze. :yippee:

Frangio
01-29-2014, 11:35 PM
Well, a big thanks to the folks who first came up with the fix and shared the info with all of us. It worked for me :banana: :yippee:

Now for my story an pictures :zzz

My HT-R667 was no longer switching HDMI for the longest of time. All symptoms were as discussed by many : slow switching to slower to ... nada ! I had recabled my devices to avoid the HDMI while I convinced myself to eventually having to buy a new system. These things should last longer, especially at these prices.

Then, just for fun, I searched the net :busy: and found all these posts about a near miracle fix : less than 2$ for the 5 capacitors could get my receiver back in shape :eyecrazy: No way ! :eyecrazy: Can't be that easy ! :eyecrazy:

Well, after much reading of key forums, this one in particular, YouTube and such, I did it. I ordered the 5 capacitors (10 actually), reason the cost was so "high" (about 2$, even with 105c 16v caps). I was paying lots more for the shipping anyways... Then I bought a digital soldering station, call me crazy but I like to have the right tools to work ... there was a special and I will be getting back in electronics after this run and way too many years at software vs hardware. While at it, I had figured if heat was a cause, then I need to squeeze in a fan or maybe two. So I ordered 2 very quiet 140mm computer case fans.

Once everything was in, I eventually got the nerves to open the Onkyo.

Sh... the components on the board looked a lot larger in the pictures ! All those itsy bitsy tiny little surface mount specs soldered kind of tight together. No way I was going to make it through this operation ... The iron was hot, maybe too hot, ... I started to rethink the whole thing. I will just destroy the board ! What then ? :what:

But full steam ahead, can't back out now. I had all the parts and tools.

At worse the HDMI board would remain as useless as it has been for a good year or so now. So I removed the HDMI card. A lot easier than expected : 5 screws, a bit of leverage to pull the card out and the two cables to disconnect. Hardly took a minute, even for excessively care full and nervous me ! You can do it too ... :thumbsup:

Now for the tricky part : take a pair of plyers and gently wiggle those capacitors, one at a time. Just grab each with the plyers, do a slight rotation motion left, right, left, ... and in no time the surface mounted legs just break off ... real clean and all too easy ! If all goes this well, I'll have this done in minutes. I should of filmed myself. :dunce:

Warm up the soldering station. It was near instant 400c (a great buy) and added a bit of solder to pads which still had the flat part of the old capacitors. Wrong solder, I think it was for electrical work, came with 5$ soldering iron I had for a while ... but it will have to do.

Now, I didn't buy surface mounts. Thinking for a second or two, I took my plyers and pinched each of the leads nearest the cap and bent rest outward. The near 90o bend was perfect. Hold capacitor against PCB, heat up a bit, dab solder, wait ... wait ... clip the extra length and done :banana:

1 ... 2 ... 3 ... 4 ... sh...t, the 5th capacitor was being difficult for some unknown reason ! :what: That last one took me a while, but I won !

Now, how the heck am I going to connect and place the fans. I had an extension Y cable to connect the two fans to a computer, but Onkyo is no computer - there is no plug to receive the Y cable or the fans. Hold on ! The HDMI board is powered by 12V ... clearly says so on PCB .... so are these fans ! Wait ... the 140mm sized fans are bigger than the pictures on the web. Hmmmm... bit of head scratching and ... well ... I can squeeze one fan, but not two. I should of went for smaller version. Could of placed a couple between front panel and heat sink and couple more to blow the heat out the top cover. Much too late now, eh ?

Snip one leg of the Y extension power cable and soldered to bottom of HDMI power plug, tinned leads across all three pins for ground and two for 12V. A bit of shrink tubing to keep the wires together, a dab of glue for strain release, ran cable along underside and edge of the board and tie wrapped power plug thanks to the two holes at far edge... One was for plastic stand to hold corner of PCB up, other was unused. Perfect !! Very clean look, a pro could not of done better. :yippee: Well, ok, he / she could of done a better soldering job. But I'm proud of myself.

Everything plugged back in, receiver on standby and ... fan spins. :yippee:

Took time to check HDMI and ... :banana:incredible :banana: ... it all works !!

Unplug everything, find spot for fan under cover, use the rubber things (instead of screws) to hold fan tightly to cover, flip cover unto receiver and ... DONE ! The rubber absorbs vibrations. I can hardly hear fan.

Screw cover back on, push receiver back in cabinet and played flipping between HDMI sources. Wow, amazing, unBElieeeeeevable. It works!

Shoot ! I had ordered a 6th capacitor, 220 uf, but forgot all about it ... and, as it turns out, the setup menu does not show on TV. It might be this 6th capacitor ? :banghead: Oh well, don't go there that often any ways and lived without HDMI for nearly a year, no OSD is fine. :rolleyes:

:2cents

PartsExpress : 1.20$us for 10 100uf 16v high temp radial capacitors (part# 020-1704) ... only needed 5, so cost should of been 0.60$us. Add the 220uf 16v radial mini electrolytic (not used so far): 0.27$ & 6.15$ shipping (!) Then there was 5$ to received at UPS Store (US) and 9$ tunnel crossing. 20$us is tad much for 60 cents of parts, eh ?

MicroCentre : Purex 3 pin fan y cable F-2M 7" (098657) : 1.99$us
MicroCentre : Tenna digital soldering station (60w) (723080) : 56$

Add a bit of taxes, purchased on same trip to Detroit and along with some other parts for my computers just to absorb the tunnel cost & travel time.

TigerDirect.ca : Gelid Gamer FN-FW14B-12 140mm Fan Cooler - Nanoflex bearing, winglet fan blades, waterproof (!), dustproof, ... (R336-0003) : 15.27$cnd (plus taxes and shipping)

Still comes up way cheaper than getting a new receiver or even just sending out for repairs (many say 400+$us !)

blkvet95
02-09-2014, 08:44 AM
TX SR-706, I had the delayed video no signal issue for a couple of months....took up to 6 on/off cycles to get the video working. So, on the HDMI board I replaced 12 100 uf caps with 10v 105c caps, and I jumpered all the 3 leg voltage regulators with 1uf non polarized blue 50v caps going from right base leg to wide top bar.

Reconnected everything, went right on with perfect hdmi video handshake like when it was new :banana:, but now I have no sound in any mode, including fm tuner.

Note that when I try to shift to different sound modes such as all channel stereo, etc, they don't show up on the front panel. Also, the eight boxes on the left panel that show the speakers are empty and the hdmi indicator on the right side is blinking. This was working prior to the repair I just completed.

So I checked my EPROM and I got DSP 1st and 2nd ??????.

Also Main: 1.01/ 08620A.

Looks like that's my problem......

I've done repairs like this on other A/V equipment before.....

What happened? :banghead:

blkvet95
02-13-2014, 06:03 PM
So today I managed to get the board to work for about 5 minutes....both dsp's showed up so they are ok. :banana:

Seems the 3 end board connectors do not like to be all the way in.

I only put them part way in and then the board worked.

Put it in standby and put the screws in and turned it back on and no dsp's again....loose connection somewhere.

At least I can troubleshoot this....

Not tonight though, have to dig out of 12" of snow :eyecrazy

blkvet95
02-14-2014, 10:04 PM
So I tried to see if I could get it working again....no luck, still getting DSP 1&2 = ??????????????:crying::crying::crying:

Frangio
02-15-2014, 03:05 PM
Well, it's been nearly a month since I've done the 5 capacitor fix and my Onkyo is switching HDMI like a charm ever since.

Well, a big thanks to the folks who first came up with the fix and shared the info with all of us. It worked for me :banana: :yippee:
[...]

blkvet95
02-22-2014, 11:28 AM
The only way I get sound right now thru the fm receiver is using pure audio......video hdmi works fine....but no sound!

Am waiting for a new Mouser order will be changing all the remaining caps on hdmi board, especially the 220 and 22 uf ones.

Spldart, your thoughts?

blkvet95
03-01-2014, 05:08 PM
So I replaced the remaining 100uf, 220uf and one 22uf caps.

The DSP woke up when I first turned it on.

After I turned it off and put the screws back in and turned it on, got the old DSP ???? Again:banghead:

Futzed with it a couple more times and got it to come up one more time then the same DSP ???? Again:helpme

I did some additional checking, the voltage at the power input 5 wire ribbon connector is 14v however the stenciled voltage on the board is 12v, wonder why this is 2 volts higher?

blkvet95
03-02-2014, 01:05 PM
So I looked it over again today. With magnifocuser looked for errant solder, etc. cleaned areas I thought could possibly be a problem.....didn't really find any.

Put the board back in, plug it in, turn it on and it works with the DSP showing the program numbers for 1 & 2.

Unplug it, put all screws back in board and plug it back in and it still works.

Unplug, put cover back on, plug it back in and same DSP 1 & 2 ???? problem!

Just don't get this intermittent problem with the hdmi board:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

blkvet95
03-02-2014, 04:08 PM
Decided to have one last go at it.....

Put it on the bench took off the cover and plugged it in....worked this time.

So I put it in standby and put the cover back on.....it has a new fan I installed in the cover

Turned it back on and it still works....can see all program info in main, video, dsp's, etc.

Didn't attach speakers yet, so I decided to let it stay turned on....started at 3 pm and it's still on at 6 pm and checked programs and all still working.....new fan is quiet and unit stays nice and cool.

BTW, I only have FR and FL in the speaker boxes, don't remember if all the info in the boxes, i.e. ctr, rr, lr, etc ., should be showing?

So far so good:D

Just finished hooking it all up tonight to my 7 surround speakers and powered subwoofer. Audessy turned on and I was able to go through entire speaker setup....all seems to work perfectly again including OSD :)

blkvet95
03-02-2014, 09:45 PM
Spoke too soon I guess, it works, however only FR and FL speakers show up on display in speaker boxes.

Sound seems to work fine in cab/sat mode with all sound mode choices :)

However when in tuner mode listening to FM radio, only direct works, trying to go to other modes it states not available?

Will not even go into pure audio mode in radio mode?

DSP codes for 1&2 show up fine.

Puzzled......

blkvet95
03-02-2014, 10:12 PM
DAH........TV speaker pass through was on....turned it off and now all speakers show of course and radio works with all sound modes:banana:

blkvet95
03-08-2014, 08:20 PM
Still working perfectly!:banana::banana::banana:

blkvet95
03-19-2014, 08:11 PM
Still working perfectly!:banana::banana::banana:

blkvet95
03-23-2014, 11:27 AM
Everything still works ok, however just noticed that only fr and fl speakers show in the small display boxes.

Only way I can get all of them on us with multi ch and then DVD shows as it is supposed to. Any other mode like cab/sat, tuner, etc. just shows fr and lr, but Audessy shows and sound comes out of all speakers as I went thru Audessy setup again to check all speakers, OSD works fine too, and tv pass thru is set to off.

Also checked and all chip program serial numbers display for DSP, main, etc.

My missing something here?

blkvet95
03-24-2014, 05:24 PM
Turns out for some reason my digital audio inputs were wrong.

Set them to match my hdmi inputs and walla everything shows up fine again!

kirb112
03-25-2014, 05:38 AM
It's been a year since I replaced the five caps on my board. Receiver is still going strong. Thank you all who have contributed to this thread to teach us not-so-electrical-inclined individuals how to salvage our expensive AV equipment!

kctobyjoe
05-12-2014, 02:26 PM
GREAT news reading this...I have the TX NR609; getting new caps (100 mf FIRST) will replace and see what gives; STILL Need a better illustration of the suggested installation of the .1 or 1uf caps placed on the regulators; can anyone tell me WHY tho ?!?!? Mine runs thru analog FINE; then CRACKLING then NOTHING. MAY play for a few weeks before DOOM! I don't use the HDMI outs due to the audio delay; DRIVES ME INSANE