I have left dish network for ota tv need help

I need help in what I should do for a antenna and setup. I do not have an antenna in mind, but have looked at many. My home is 3 stories tall and above all the trees. I can see off my back porch app. 40 miles with ease on clear days. Latitude 30.59670 longitude -86.00831 is the location of home. I can attach to roof, eave or mast off stairs. I have a channel master structure media box that has various items in spaun multi switch, 1x8 outlet, booster and a few splitters. I have 6 tv's i would like to get signal to. Is there a way to do this without having to buy 6 converters

Welcome to the forums! Here is your tv fool report: http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3dbc27ee3914193a

Based on this report, you have three high vhf stations at 110 to 117 degrees and several UHF channels in a number of different directions. You will need an antenna rotor if your goal is to achieve reception of the maximum number of stations. If you only want a single set of network stations, I would recommend a Winegard 1713 and set it up at a fixed aim of 115 degrees for your VHF channels (ch 13 ABC: ch 7 NBC; and ch 9 Fox). For CBS, I would use a Channel Master 4220. I would join the two antennas with a UVSJ or with a pre-amp that allows separate UHF and VHF inputs. You'll need amplification assistance to supply that many tvs. I'll leave that issue to distribution pros on this board...

HTH a little anyways! :)

Rick

I am not opposed to a rotor. What kind of amp would I need one on mast or in media box? Would using two antennas be better, I would like to get as many channels as possible for some reason they actually show different shows at the same time. I have rabbit ears right now and get two cbs channels at times with different shows, but this is very unreliable. I also need suggestions on converter.

Rotors have pluses and minuses. They do allow you to maximum the number of channels that you receive but can create a problem if two people want to watch different channels from different directions at the same time... A rotor wouldn't fly at my house but may work well in your situation.

Your CBS channel is fairly strong and limits you to using a Winegard HDP-269 pre-amp. You will need additional amplification (above & beyond the hdp269) to send signal to six tvs.... The distribution pros can discuss the pluses/minuses of varying distribution amps.

The converter boxes are getting harder to find in stock at local stores. However, many are still available through on-line distributors. I have an APEX 502 and a Zenith DTT901. The Zenith has a more user friendly remote than the APEX. I stopped following the converter box threads after making my selections so I'm a bit dated on current info... Look before you leap though. Check reviews on-line. A number of boxes were poor performers and poor sellers. Don't buy until you've confirmed that a particular model is a good performer...

I'd consider these converter boxes:

http://www.amazon.com/Zinwell-ZAT-970A-Digital-Analog-Converter/dp/B001DVZXC0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1257659661&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Stream-DSP7700P-Converter-Black/dp/B001FSLYLU/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1257659661&sr=8-2

Just my two cents.

Unless you were trying to build your own CATV system - to supply reception to the whole building, I wouldn't recommend hooking 6 televisions up to your antenna system. It is a novel idea to want to have a television in every room, but just for the sake of asking, how many of those televisions are actually being used, my guess would be two or three.

My suggestion also would include that unless you wanted to build your own CATV system - where you had dedicated antenna's pointed directly at the stations you wished to acquire, there is no way around putting up with a antenna rotor to get decent reception of all the channels. As you have said, you know they are there and you would like to receive as many of them as possible.

The only option you would have for a one antenna system is to be a dictator and tell the people in the house, this is what we are going to watch. If someone wants to watch a channel coming out of the south and you want to watch a channel coming out of the north west, there is a very good chance that the antenna is not going to see both channels at the same time.

In the last 20 or 30 years, we have been spoiled with cable television where we did not have to worry about antenna's or which direction they were pointed in. Most television was VHF and could be received with little or no assistance and did not require some type of converter box.

On the subject of converter boxes, my opinion still stands that the Zenith and the Channel Master 7000 were both good affordable boxes. Neither of which are still available over the counter. I just had some coupons expire the other day, because I could not find any good boxes to buy with them. For the money, probably the next best option is one of the Dish Network type boxes - such as the DTV Pal, which is probably also out of stock.

Do you realize how much it is going to cost you to buy 6 converter boxes without any coupons? Kaa ching!

My advice would be to buy a Winegard 7696 or a 7698P and use a antenna rotor and limit your televisions to 3 and use some type of pre amplifier and you should still be in good shape.

The 7698 should have at least 60* of viewing in any direction from the center of the direction that you have the antenna pointed.

So if you had the antenna pointed at channel 24 or 48, you would still be able to get channel 14 or 15 to the one side and probably be able to get channel 10 or 12 to the other side without having to turn the rotor.

I wouldn't expect to get too many stations in the Grey except in the summertime when tropo rules...

I had Douche Network for a while but dropped them because, like TW Cable, their Customer Service was not all that great and the Rep's were very arrogant.

I recommend using multiple and different antennas for every one or two televisions. Hooking up more than two TV's to a single antenna will not give you very good reception of weak or moderately weak signals. And you'll also notice a drop in reliable or stable reception on all but the strongest local signals.

One advantage to this method is that you will find most antennas have a range of channels that they will receive better than others. That being the case, if one antenna does not give you reliable reception of a favorite channel or two, perhaps a different model located in a different spot may give you a better chance at getting a better signal.

There is absloutely nothing wrong with designing and using a proper TV antenna distribution system: the talk of antennas for individual TV sets is just silly, as is the suggestion that you shouldn't use all 6 TV sets if you want them. The cable TV company can run thousands of TV sets from one head-end: you can scale it to 6 TV sets without much of a problem.

Most digital TV reception is lost in a bad distribution system, however, so if you want one that will pass along whatever signal you are sending it from your antenna system, you will need some help making it work, sketch out what you have in mind, and post it, we can help you with splitters and a distribution amp that will do the job fo you.

There is absloutely nothing wrong with designing and using a proper TV antenna distribution system: the talk of antennas for individual TV sets is just silly, as is the suggestion that you shouldn't use all 6 TV sets if you want them. The cable TV company can run thousands of TV sets from one head-end: you can scale it to 6 TV sets without much of a problem.

Most digital TV reception is lost in a bad distribution system, however, so if you want one that will pass along whatever signal you are sending it from your antenna system, you will need some help making it work, sketch out what you have in mind, and post it, we can help you with splitters and a distribution amp that will do the job fo you.

Using more than one antenna worked for me when I've used two sets at one time. Try to think of it as having a mini tower farm on your roof or backyard. :)

Hello aviamedia, welcome to the forum!

Dude, that is the most #@%*&!-up tvfool I think I've ever seen!:eek:
AND you want to run 6 TV's to boot???:huh

And with 6 TV's I can't imagine there isn't going to be conflicts if a single antenna & rotor is used.
At the very least you'll be forever dashing up & down the stairs to move the rotor...

First thing that should be mentioned is that Rick's tvfool is @ 25' AGL and since you're in a 3-story house you can achieve considerably more height than that with just a 10' mast on your roof - thus making things all the better as far as signal strengths are concerned.

So, as opposed to the antenna farm on the roof that Billiam has suggested, I think you can get away with 2 antennas on separate runs, and A/B switches at each box/TV.

Antenna #1 is a Winegard HD-7697P aimed at ~120 degrees to pick up everything from 101-163 degrees. This may be a bit of a push, but I think you've got a good shot on it as RF 38 is relatively strong and the rest are at 101-116 deg.

Antenna #2 is an Antennas Direct 91XG aimed at ~33 degrees to get you everything from 29-43 degrees. (Forget about analog ch 5 @ 39 deg, as it's: 1stly, Low-VHF & 2ndly, at very low power in the air.)

If you'd like to go for WDIQ RF 10 @ 341 deg & WSFA RF 12 @ 355 deg a Winegard YA-1713 may be added aimed for these and joined to the 91XG with a UVSJ, and fed into the amp. (It may be optimistic to expect to get these though? But it may look a bit better with the extra height you have.)

I think you'd benefit from a HDP-269 preamp for each antenna. (These go on the mast.) Bring the individual coax leads into the house to a distribution center, (be it the attic or basement) and locate the power injectors up stream of your first splitter(s).

To refute the gloom & doom about the signal loss when trying to serve 6 locations, if you feed into a 2-way then into two 3-way splitters you have incurred a 10.5dB loss on 4 of your legs, and 7dB on the other two. The 269 amp alone has 12dB of gain and makes up for that loss and then some.

A distribution amp will still be required however to make up for the loss incurred in what are sure to be significant cable runs with your 3 story home.

Depending on where the TV's are will determine where you put the splitters and dist amp, and which legs should feed what... For instance you could bring the antenna output to the basement, feed into the 269 pwr injector then into a reg 2-way splitter; one leg goes into a second reg 2-way splitter that feeds two TV's on the first floor. The second leg of the first 2-way feeds into a 4-way dist amp/splitter that feeds the other 4 TV's on the 2nd & 3rd floors. (Of course this for one of the antennas, an entire second set-up is req'd for the second antenna.)

As for your other question of needing a D/A box at each TV - unless they are digital ready TV's with ATSC tuners (such as an HDTV) the answer is yes.

One possible way around this (which would also limit your # of splits) would be to split the output of a digital box and feed a TV an an adjacent room. (Or feed the TV in that room with the RCA output on the box, and run the 75ohm coax output to the adjacent room) An RF "rabbit" repeater could be utilized for control from the fed TV, although both TV's would always be getting the same signal. You would also have to go in and flip the A/B switch to change antennas. (Not sure how much of a PIA this would be, depends on your usage habits.)

All in all this is one complex installation - but I think the guys on here are up for the challenge:) - If you can come back with where (and on what floors) your TV's are located, some approximation of cable run lengths for each, and if the reception scenario I presented will suffice as far as your desires are concerned.

Man my fingers are tired!:D

Your CBS channel is fairly strong and limits you to using a Winegard HDP-269 pre-amp. You will need additional amplification (above & beyond the hdp269) to send signal to six tvs.... The distribution pros can discuss the pluses/minuses of varying distribution amps.

.

In this case the Winegard AP 8800 preamp should work. It has high gain on VHF but lower gain on UHF. There are few UHF stations, so the overload problem on UHF is reduced. It should suffice as both a preamp and distribution amplifier. (This is the first time I've seen the AP 8800 preamp as the best choice.)

I agree with the selection of the separate VHF/ UHF antennas.

I don't have a good solution for reception of PBS.

Sorry for the delay in replying Sundays are always busy. Great information what I have read as of yet. I am up for what ever we can do. To give you a structure of the house is next.

First floor has no tvs in it. Second Floor at start is structured media panel by channel vision inside I have all channel vision parts c2020 x1
c2080 x1, c0315 54-1000 forward path amp, and spaun sm8 5802nf. I also have but not hooked up is a channel plus 3024 and channel vision e4200 modulators. Cabling runs to each room twice one for dish and other for antenna. I have tvs in 4 bedrooms. Third Floor game room and living room. We would probably on be watching 3 at a time unless at bedtime and one stays upstairs.

The height of my home is appr. 32' to top of third floor roof line to top of roof is another 9'. So I have some height to get above everything n sight. I mean everything the only thing higher than our house is the towers miles away.

I would like to have the ability to watch television in more than 3 tvs but if it is going to cost me over 600 I may have to hold off on some things, not to include installation in that figure. I am just tired of having to fight with rabbit ears.

How would one of the yagi style antennas work for me or the newer 4 bay antennas? Just wondering on the channels how they would respond with them being all over the place.

In this case the Winegard AP 8800 preamp should work. It has high gain on VHF but lower gain on UHF. There are few UHF stations, so the overload problem on UHF is reduced. It should suffice as both a preamp and distribution amplifier. (This is the first time I've seen the AP 8800 preamp as the best choice.)

I agree with the selection of the separate VHF/ UHF antennas.

I don't have a good solution for reception of PBS.

:hithere: TG! Yes, first time I have seen the Winegard 8800 recommended! Good choice for this situation. :thumbsup:

How would one of the yagi style antennas work for me or the newer 4 bay antennas? Just wondering on the channels how they would respond with them being all over the place.

Your vhf channels are in one general location. It's the UHF channels that are around the dial. You could pick up your local PBS by using a CM 4221 for UHF and removing the reflector screen. It will lower the gain some but should pick up WFSG (PBS). Your other UHF channels tend to have very low signal strengths and require a high gain UHF antenna such as the XG-91. High gain usually means a narrow beamwidth and means a rotor is required.

Tower Guy is very good at multiple antenna solutions but your situation may defeat his usual magic.... :D

I would like to get some of the none standard stations they have some really good stuff on them at times. We homeschool our children an they sometimes will watch them for lessons again when we can pick them up.

Which non-standard stations are you looking for? We've given you a solution that uses fixed antenna aim. Other stations are possible if you are willing to use a rotor.

we have a channel called beach tv, pbs and a channel called my movies not sure have only got pbs on normal bases the others only on a few occations

Can you tell us the channel call sign and real channel number? Hooper gave some great solutions earlier in this thread....

wfdb at 303 and WGOX-LP 285

WFDB is received OTA on real channel 48
WGOX is received OTA on real channel 44

To quote myself...

...If you can come back with where (and on what floors) your TV's are located, some approximation of cable run lengths for each, and if the reception scenario I presented will suffice as far as your desires are concerned.

I suppose (especially in this situation) my last sentence should've been my first question!;)

IOW as a starting point, why don't you go over what's available to you on this tvfool @50' AGL,
http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3dbc27c82f8f6a0f
and let us know what stations you'd really like to have.

You gained a bit here & there, and you can get pretty much anything that's out there (and probably consistently) down to WPCT RF 47 @ -6.7dB NM (which didn't even show at 25', BTW.) since as you say, you have open country & your height puts you above the trees, and this is the only thing tvfool doesn't take into account - so we should be able to set you up by the numbers and not get any big surprises.:)

As Rick has stated, if you "Want it all" a pair of separates brought together with a UVSJ (or possibly a 7697 combo) on one mast, with a rotor & HDP-269 amp will get it for you - but at the price of unquestionable viewing conflicts with 6 TV's. (And having to replace the carpet on your stairs.:D)

If on the other hand you can nail down a couple of aims by passing on some of the duplicate network transmissions, maybe we can set you up with a couple of fixed antennas and A/B switches at each TV, thus allowing total flexibility - the choice is yours!:)

Of course you may also need dist amps, but may as well take it one step at a time. And I wouldn't be too concerned about the rig cracking the $600 mark for materials either way.

The ball is now in your court.;)

What is UVSJ? I would like to do two antennas to avoid problems I guess with more information y'all are giving me. If I'm able to get those channels would be better than what I currently get. What would it take to get the stations 90 miles away?

Would that deep fringe setup work that is on one of the stickies? Am I going to be able to use any of the equipment that is in my structured media box?

A description of uvsj can be found here: http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?mc=03&p=UVSJ&d=Pico-Macom-UVSJ-UHF-VHF-Band-SeparatorCombiner-for-Antenna-%28UVSJ%29

I would like to do two antennas to avoid problems I guess with more information y'all are giving me. If I'm able to get those channels would be better than what I currently get.

I take this to mean you would prefer the convenience of fixed antennas & A/B switches as req'd, and no rotor.

What would it take to get the stations 90 miles away?

A song and a prayer.;)
When you look at the tvfool report, the column labelad "Path" indicates what the signal has to do to get to your location:
LOS = Line Of Sight, and these are the strongest, most reliable signals, and should be good 100% of the time.

1 Edge = The signal has to bounce once to get to you, and can usually be had reliably with the right equipment.

2 Edge = The signal has to bounce twice, and this makes them less dependable due to atmospheric conditions. But still gettable to a reasonable degree in some situations.

Tropo = The signal will only get to you under certain atmospheric conditions, and will not be reliable at all.

Would that deep fringe setup work that is on one of the stickies?

You have stations all over the radar - you have to decide which you are interested in receiving first, then which antenna(s) can be determined...

Rick: What is that site you recommend where you can peruse the programming of various stations by searching by call letters? Might help him out.

Am I going to be able to use any of the equipment that is in my structured media box?

I am not familiar with your equip. I did go to channelvision.com but could only find the E4200 analog distribution switch, so I can't say if what you have will be of any use... I suspect this equipment is more used for distributing & amplifying analog signals from a central location to various sets around the home, and mixing them onto a cable that also feeds an antenna, satellite, or cable TV signal.

4
Rick: What is that site you recommend where you can peruse the programming of various stations by searching by call letters? Might help him out.

I like to use titan tv (url: www.titantv.com). Enter the zip code and set the source as digital ota and you will see a two week programming guide for the main and all the sub channels.

Best,

Rick

I don't mind a rotor. My thought was just to avoid the confusion if someone else is watching other channels opposite of where we turn it.

From what I am seeing from information you posted which was great help about what those dang path things meant I would have no clue.
I see that I am able to get 6 digital channels 1 at 29 degrees and all the rest are toward panama city. There also is 6 analog channels 5 toward panama and 1 at 329 degrees. Unfortunately all the others are in Pensacola which are over 100 miles awa

the items I have are a

CVT-15PIA - 1-In 1-Out 15dB Amplifier

* 15db power injected amplifier
* 54-1000 MHz w/ 5-42MHz return path
* <3dB of noise
* use with CVT-PI

a 1 in 8 out splitter a 1 in 2 out splitter 1 power injector

the distance of cable from panel to master bedroom is 18', to bedroom two is appr. 42', bedroom three is appr. 43', bedroom 4 is 22', to living room is 25', and to game room is 45'. The amount of cable out to where I would possible mount the antenna would be 55' to panel.

I don't mind a rotor. My thought was just to avoid the confusion if someone else is watching other channels opposite of where we turn it.

EXACTLY!;)
We need to determine what you're going for before we can talk about distribution.

OK I'm going to take a whack at getting it laid out, in groupings that can be received with either one combo or a set of separate VHF/UHF antennas aimed for them & joined with a UVSJ...
(And please feel free to correct me if I am overly optimistic, or have missed something!)

You have, grouped by aim:
(all channels are actual RF ch's, & aim is "True" degrees, listed in descending order of NM signal strength)

Aim A: Combo antenna (Winegard HD-7697P)
OR a pair of separates (91XG/YA-1713 & UVSJ) aimed @ ~120 degrees should get:
ch38 @ 163 @ 59.0dB
ch13 @ 115 @ 41.2dB
ch 7 @ 108 @ 32.8dB
ch 9 @ 116 @ 31.8dB
ch30 @ 160 @ 29.7dB (Analog)
ch10 @ 134 @ 15.9dB (Analog)
ch51 @ 101 @ 15.6dB
ch17 @ 132 @ 2.3dB (Analog) *
ch26 @ 115 @ -2.6dB (Analog) *

Aim B: UHF only antenna (91XG) aimed at ~36 deg should get:
ch36 @ 35 @ 59dB
ch33 @ 29 @ 4.2dB
ch21 @ 43 @ 3.8dB

Aim C: UHF only antenna (91XG, 4228HD, DB8?) aimed at ~295 deg should get:
ch24 @ 329 @ 33.7dB (Analog)
ch48 @ 303 @ 14.7dB **
ch43 @ 285 @ 3.1dB **
ch18 @ 285 @ -0.2dB (Analog) *

Aim D: VHF only antenna (YA-1713) aimed at ~350 deg should get:
ch10 @ 341 @ -0.4dB
ch12 @ 355 @ -5.1dB

* = may be a stretch to expect to get reliably.
(And maybe I'm still being overly optimistic, due to 2-Edge transmissions, lets see what others think.)
** = Channels you have mentioned you would like.

(It is too bad we can't re-sort tvfool by aim parameters)

You have to decide what stations are important to you first. In all I count 12 digital channels and 6 analogs* available to you. To get everything listed you would need 4 antennas, (5 if you go with separates for aim "A") on 3 downleads: The aim "D" - YA-1713 joined to one of the UHF only's and 3 amps, fed to A/B/C switches
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/33-1490
at each TV in the house - don't know if you want to go that far...

A minimalist approach would be to take the aim "C" since you would like to get these channels, and bring together with only the VHF from aim "A" or aim "D" with a YA-1713 and a UVSJ on one cable & one amp.

A middle of the road would be to take aim "A" on one downlead, and aims "C" & "D" combined with a UVSJ on a second downlead and use A/B switches at ea TV...

So think of this like ordering Chinese food: How many from column A,B,C & D do you want?:)

Or, just get one combo (or a pair of separates) and a rotor, and spend the rest of your life wearing out the carpet on your stairs & arguing over what to watch - it's either easy now, or easy later!:D

Ok if funding wasn't an issue what would it take to do all four antennas. I would like to get a,b, and c at the least. If it gets to much in cost than I may have to go the way of a rotor. Could I do one fixed antenna towards group a and use a rotor to catch other channels at a given time.

I also checked how difficult would it be to put a 30' mast on a porch? If I can do this it would put me a little over 60' high.

Ok if funding wasn't an issue what would it take to do all four antennas.

Like I said, 4 (or 5) antennas, two masts, A/B/C switches at each TV, a whole lotta wire...

I would like to get a,b, and c at the least... Could I do one fixed antenna towards group a and use a rotor to catch other channels at a given time.

That sounds like a very reasonable compromise to me!:)

So you get one 7697 mounted lower on the mast, aimed at "A" and above put a 91XG on a rotor which can get you aims "B" or "C", or any other UHF around the dial - certainly a cost effective option I didn't think of.:thumbsup: (And a 91XG being not very large is easy on the rotor too.:)) Aim "D" is lost, but I really only included it 'cause it was gettable with a ~$50 YA-1713 & UVSJ, but it is only 2 stations so I see your point, why bother. (And if enough room is left on the mast you could always easily add it later.)

I'm guessing the safe bet would be to get a HDP-269 for each antenna, and have 2 downleads with A/B switches at each TV. Lets see what other opinions are now that you have a plan.:D

I also checked how difficult would it be to put a 30' mast on a porch? If I can do this it would put me a little over 60' high.

On a porch, as in a third story balcony?
That tall a mast will need guy wires and I'm not sure how you'd do that, being open to the ground on one side - 2 sets of wires to corners of the roof and a third to the ground in the yard? Maybe someone else has some ideas here...

If I lowered it to 50' would it need guy wires? My thought where to secure to porch at the base and as I go up I have the eave of the roof which is at 9' above the porch and secure there, that would leave another 20 above. I could secure wires on roof at different points not to sure about going all the way to ground because I would end up in my stairs. What type of pole would you recommend as I have saw fiberglass and steel on ebay with military specs that are going very reasonable.

What would it take to also put it on the roof. I have a bird house roof which is all sides come together in the middle. Pitch is on 5:12 from ground to point is 42' I would like to get another 10' if that would work or I could get a 30' mast which would put at exact same height but creating more difficulty because mounting issues with guide wires, but in doing this it would reduce about 20' of cable in distance from going to peak. What is best way to fasten to roof on slope without creating leakage?

What would it take to also put it on the roof. I have a bird house roof which is all sides come together in the middle. Pitch is on 5:12 from ground to point is 42' I would like to get another 10' if that would work or I could get a 30' mast which would put at exact same height but creating more difficulty because mounting issues with guide wires, but in doing this it would reduce about 20' of cable in distance from going to peak. What is best way to fasten to roof on slope without creating leakage?
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There is some missing information here, but its still an engineering and safety problem. And at a minimum, a two person job on a not windy day.

But we can envision it as two geometric shapes. First we have a vertical rectangular solid which is the body of your house, and the important variable is how high do you have to climb to get onto the roof?

Then atop that we have a basic 4 sided pyramid, coming to a point.
And given the pitch is 5/12, the roof is walkable but still steep. But assuming the top point of the roof is engineered with enough strength, we have an good point to mount an 10 foot antenna mast.

But then we get to the rub, the mast need not be all that strong to support the weight of the antenna, but when we factor in wind, which can come from any direction, and suddenly the leverage force is against us and becomes an increasing problem as mast height increases. And therefore the solution lies in in three engineering principles, strong materials, a hinge, and guy wires.

First we need a strong base, something that has four braces at least a foot or more in length, with mounting bolts that go through the roof and hence must be sealed against rain. Atop that is a strong hinge that limits the base of mast movement to one plane. Be in North South, or East West, it allows the mast to be lowered to a workable height. At a 5/12 pitch, a 10 foot mast is then only horizontally 4.2 feet above level, almost an ideal distance for humans. to attach an antenna to the mast and also the various coax and maybe amps.

Then we must attach guy wires to the top of the mast on 4 sides, with one person erecting the antenna to vertical, and the other successively attaching the other end of guy wires to 4 prepared eye bolts much lower down the roof that also pierce the roof and must be sealed.

And all that remains is the problem is descending, with the fact being, its easier to ascend than descend. But given the fact that doubled climbing rope looped around the top mount is both strong, it provides that margin of safety in case of any descending slip. Once on the ground, un clip from the looped rope, pull just one end of the rope down and around , and you are done.

I have just described the antenna mounting of my mother's roof, it lasted for more than 30 years, but the weak point was the guide wires that were too thin after corrosion did its work.