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Originally Posted by PFC5
Punch in a picture is nice, but many of these settings are based on other settings ALSO being set properly. Sometimes what is thought of as "punch" is actually altering what the source material actually has, so it is altering it artificially. I have also seen on displays that too much "punch" can create the video noise issues you have complained about. Again, punch is nice but only to a point. I think if you try it for a while with not so much "punch" you will get use to a more natural picture which is in the source material.
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When I was discussing "punch" I was referring to the added "wow!" effect that the Auto 1 Iris setting provides on these SXRDs as opposed to the Auto 2, which is the default for most of the modes; I understand this Iris change affects other settings, but the contrast wasn't really "mucked up" by this Auto 1 mode, it just made the picture more "fiery" for lack of a better term. No matter what, my standard DVD calibration disc's prompt always says "Reduce contrast to approximately 80 percent of maximum, and proceed to the next chapter..." with the white box contrast test, so my results seem fine at "80" for Contrast.
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Again. On most displays, each individual mode can have different gamma settings, so what needs to be set at 80 in one mode will not be correct in another mode which is part of the reason WHY you need to try the settings in the correct mode and not compare them.
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Okay; I understand this. I'm just saying that I always leave the contrast at 80 on any mode I calibrate because the disc says to if the geometry of the white box in the test doesn't change shape -- which it doesn't on my set.
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How could you get the color "spot-on" without the color filters that I know do not come with these calibration discs you have? Without the filters to look through, you cannot even use this test screen with them.
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How did I do it? First, on MY calibration DVD (not the HD Basics BD) the color setup is so simple -- they ask you to reduce the color to zero for a black and white image and then there's a picture of a female model...they ask you to raise the color until fleshtones appear natural and lifelike -- not sunburned or bleeding. On my set, this is exactly at "50" -- Sony's default. The Hue and Color were confirmed on every single THX Optimizer test I run too -- on the THX Optimizer, it says if you don't have glasses or filters to set the color, move ahead on the menu and follow the instructions on that SMPTE color bar pattern -- on that screen, the instructions say adjust color so red is red but not bleeding (which it is at "50") and for tint, make sure Magenta and Cyan are truly those colors -- which they ARE on the Hue being at Sony's default of "50"...
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I would leave the Detail Enhancer and Edge Enhancer OFF as a starting point. This will almost always turn film grain into what looks like excessive noise which is one of your complaints and likely is defaulted to ON with the Standard mode. As for the White Balance the site says to leave it at the Factory default so just leave it there.
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Okay, a couple of things here...YES, that "excessive noisy film grain" I'm complaining about IS probably because of the detail and edge enhancement -- no doubt. But I think if I go back and recalibrate in Custom mode, some things like "Live Color" or whatever it is that's making the Standard picture look so punchy, will be disabled and I'll be dissapointed...as for the White Balance, this concerns me too -- just because Tweak TV said leave these at factory defaults, is this what I should really do? I don't have the instruments to properly set these myself...perhaps it's the factory settings here that make Custom mode's picture look so "dull" to me?
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If your display doesn't have them, then don't worry about them right now. If your display does have some settings not listed here, then leave them on the default for a starting point and then you can experiment with them one at a time to see what looks best to YOU.
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Well, two Sony things -- CineMotion and Game Mode -- are both "greyed out" on that menu, not allowing me to set them...
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If you DO decide to try the Custom Mode again, then please try the settings as they are from that link as I outlined above, and test some SD & BD movies to see how they look and if any of your issues (i.e. noise, etc) with PQ have disappeared. Only THEN should you change any of the settings at all.
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I don't think -- in the small time I had the display calibrated in CUSTOM mode the other day -- that the settings eliminated the crummy DVD performance from this Blu-ray player...I mean, no matter how these settings are made, there's just no way to make up for a shitty scaler/deinterlacer in this player...